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Thread: Blu's 818R

  1. #1
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    Red face Blu's 818R

    After 27 years of racing tin tops I decided to go topless.... sort of.
    I picked up my build late April 2018 after selling our 2 Spec Miata's. We ran SM for 5 years and had a blast, I must say i learned how to drive again, momentum racing is so much fun. 3 Championships between us including an invite to Mazda Shootout in California, what an experience, fun!

    My son went to play in the dirt with his GC8 Impreza. I bought a caged GC8 shell as well with the intensions of following him into rally, however the car was butchered from open class and too far gone for me to complete. So I sold it to a friend, lol.

    I have enjoyed reading the forums the past 6 months to gather information on the best way (for me) to build this race toy. So many talented people on here with amazing depth of knowledge, thanking all of you for that !

    As I am in Canada, I had to order the "Canadian Package" as it is the ONLY way to get it across the border, god love the wisdom of our government... enough said.

    We drove the 11 hours each way to pick up the kit. Was great to meet so many people and take the factory tour.

    My build order included :
    818 Race, powder coated white as all race cars should be. Red body.
    Because there was an amazing sale when I ordered the kit, the following arrived with it -
    CF Splitter, CF Diffuser, Cunards, Door Ducts, Rocker Panel extensions, Race Side mirror kit, aluminum shifter and [3] sets of rims.
    Items purchased not on sale, APR Wing, Wilwood pedal kit.

    So far I have been gathering and cleaning parts as I do not have a donor car. Between my yard, my sons yard and a very good friend I have enough parts to pick from. Additionally I have been powder coating all of the aluminum prior to assembly, so much aluminum. Most I have done myself except for anything large I have sent it out.

    Build will include the following;
    2004 USDM 2.5 turbo (turbo size still discussing) Goal is 350+ WHP on pump gas
    6-speed with LSD
    iWire harness with custom options
    Cadillac ATS 4-piston Brembo brakes all around
    12.8 rotors all around
    Moton 3-way adjustable damper suspension
    Dry sump system
    Fuel cell in passenger area
    AIM Data acquisition
    OMP HTE R seat
    (Considering the halo, still open to the concept and still evaluating as I am 6')

    Expected completion for first race April 2020, more than likely sooner however it will be test and tune only :-)
    Last edited by Blu; 01-03-2019 at 07:53 PM. Reason: Added transmission info

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  3. #2
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    Welcome to the family.

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    Welcome! Good to see another R builder on the forum. Need pictures of that white frame!

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    Senior Member Rob T's Avatar
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    Welcome. It will be fun to watch your build.

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  11. #6
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    love the white frame, looks great.

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    I asked a good friend who is an engineer in IMSA for one of the Ferrari teams about Cadillac ATS 4-piston Brembo brakes and STI 12.8” rotors all around, here is his reply.

    So the Ferrari GTLM car has 48% weight on front, looks like the 818 is 40% based on the link you sent me.
    Ferrari has about 70% front brake distribution with the balance bar in the middle.
    Your suggested setup, with Cadillac 4 piston Brembo calipers front and rear, 1.65” piston diameter, would give 54% front brake distribution - similar to an Indy car road course setup. This is with 3/4” front and 13/16” rear master, as per the forum Hobby Racer setup.
    Initially I thought this was too much rear brake, but if your front weight is really 40%, this should be in the ballpark. The master sizes seem a bit small, you will have a long pedal, but a lot of force. I’d go for 7/8” front and 1” rear, this will give you a firmer pedal and less travel. And puts you at 57% front brake distribution, which seems about right. As you have big rotors all around (more stopping force), but larger rear clalipers (more stopping force, but more pedal travel), you will have just a bit more stopping force with just a little more pedal travel, for the same pedal force. So I’d stick with the bigger masters - as your car is lighter - it will be too easy to lock brakes with the smaller masters.
    If you have a floor mount pedal you have the same ratio as my car. If you have a swing pedal, they have a little higher ratio, meaning a little more travel, but less force.
    So I think you are on a good path.
    Note that the front distribution numbers are based on total stopping power - with the balance bar at 50%. So you can vary these numbers probably 10% on either side, but always best not to go too car from 50/50 on the bar - the geometry goes to hell.
    ------------------
    Considering I have lots of STI Brembos that need rebuilding, I am choosing to do the swap as the sale of the STI Brembos will easily pay for this swap. Besides STI Brembos use a leading and trailing piston configuration. Since I live north (road salt haven) the road Brembos are a huge challenge to rebuild with bolts not coming out.
    Rock Auto sells the remanufactured calipers for $140 I can buy new from the Chev dealer for $150.00
    Total for [4] calipers, Caliper hardware, Swap bracket kit, [4] 12.8 premium rotors is $1,100

    Thanks to Hobby Racer for sending me in this direction

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    FYI with the CP8350 4 piston AP brakes I am running (same caliper/12" rotors front and rear) and 3/4 masters. Depending on the tires and tire condition I am running I have been with in a turn from center both to the front and rear. I am really please with the pedal feel and stopping power.

    For the price the Caddie brake set up looks like a great value.

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    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blu View Post
    Thanks to Hobby Racer for sending me in this direction
    You will not be disappointed with the Caddie Brembos! I love them and have not had to change my balance bar from its 50/50 position yet as it seems to be perfectly balanced. I would be cautious about running larger master cylinders as your pedal effort will increase. My pedal travel is only about 3/4" at the pedal which I find ideal for my heal / toe setup.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

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    Like the white I was going with either white or silver. I wanted to easily see damage or leaks and be able to touch it up. ��������
    Last edited by biknman; 01-06-2019 at 09:27 AM.
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    Has anyone put in a quick steering rack? If so what did you use?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blu View Post
    Has anyone put in a quick steering rack? If so what did you use?
    I don't remember anyone putting in a quicker steering rack. I think a couple kept the power steering. there were early discussions about a quicker rack.

    I would try a the donor rack first.
    We went with the donor rack and we're happy. This link is an early autocross video the was before we had are suspension sorted. Watch Mike's hands on the wheel.



    Here is another link with a side by comparison of Mike and Mitch side by side in the same our car. https://youtu.be/UTTFf-7O8AA
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 01-09-2019 at 10:15 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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    Last edited by biknman; 01-07-2019 at 06:49 PM.
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    I guess it comes down to personal preference, that is what is great about a building a 818.
    I am using a depowered 04 WRX rack. I can say i among a few others have a lot of track miles on my car. While building the car I thought I would want a faster rack. Now that I have driven the car a bunch for me the WRX rack works great with great feed back. It’s is personal preference.
    Last edited by Mitch Wright; 01-08-2019 at 09:14 AM.

  22. #15
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    Blu, great to have another R on the track. If you are seriously considering a halo I'd be happy to chat with you about it. I like mine a lot. I have some things I would do differently if I were doing it again. And you're welcome to come out to Oregon Raceway Park with your son and rent my STI, 818R, and the Palatov D4. That way you can really see the differences, all three cars are quite different feeling. The weather is too cold now for it though, the first track days start back up in March. You could do March but it's as likely to snow on the track as it is to be nice!
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
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  23. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sgt.Gator View Post
    Blu, great to have another R on the track. If you are seriously considering a halo I'd be happy to chat with you about it. I like mine a lot. I have some things I would do differently if I were doing it again.
    Thanks for the great rental offer I will PM you and I would like to discuss with you any halo option as we have had a lot of debate about it here. BTW, I could not be further away as I am on the East Coast, Atlantic Standard Time + 4 hours.

    Speaking of debate, I spent hours and hours yesterday (snow day) reading about Subaru dry sump or conventional, got to know a little about you reading those 22 pages lol.
    Meeting my engine builder sponsor Saturday to discuss and pick his brain about all of this as he is known for building 500+ hp motors that are reliable, granted not track raced frequently. I like Mitch running conventional wet sump, makes me want to do that, versus dry sump. Then there is the Eco boost 2.3 crate motor with harness that is tempting. As I said I did not start with a donor so my options are open, although I did buy a 6-speed for a grand as there was no reverse (usually the pin breaks) as I wanted more then 300 whp which is beyond the 5-speeds reliability.
    Reading these forums and options does make ones head spin as to the best options? Time to make progress.
    Last edited by Blu; 01-14-2019 at 04:36 PM.

  24. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    I don't remember anyone putting in a quicker steering rack. I think a couple kept the power steering. there were early discussions about a quicker rack.

    I would try a the donor rack first.
    We went with the donor rack and we're happy. This link is an early autocross video the was before we had are suspension sorted. Watch Mike's hands on the wheel.

    I know I've seen you post this somewhere before, but I never get tired of watching it!

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  26. #18
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    Halo Design

    Had a friend of mine do some Halo CAD rendering options. This is the one we liked best based on the following criteria:
    No removal of bars (easier to obtain log book as we did not modify the manufactures structure)
    Add bars only as required
    Ease of egress, also considered if the car is inverted
    Protection - even open cockpit open wheel cars are adding a halo
    Allow for 6' -6'4" driver

    The front hoop is 2" lower than the rear hoop, with the two center bars at approximate 10" apart.
    Raised center bars to allow tall drivers.

    818R-3D14.jpeg818R-3D15.jpeg818R-3D16.jpeg

  27. #19
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    Nice to have more innovation on the halo!

    You are leaving the side angle support bars in? I decided to take mine out because no matter how hard I tried there was no way I could fit thru them with a halo on top. If I'm rolled over and sitting on my top, nose down, I want to be able to crawl out either side. You must be a lot skinnier than me!

    What race organization and class are you building for?
    "Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
    Owner: Colonel Red Racing
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    Amazing how long the winter months seem to drag on yet nothing really much has happened on the build in the last two months due to other commitments and work.

    The progress so far -
    Powder coated aluminum firewall pieces white - installed
    2006 STI Aluminum control arms powder coated Chrome. Whiteline Performance synthetic elastomer bushings on the inner front and installed the anti-lift/caster bushing kit on the rear.
    Spindle and hub powder coated red, includes new bearing, seals, ball joint and ARP long studs. IFS bracket powder coated chrome.
    Working on cleaning and powder coating the rear hubs.
    All axles disassembled, cleaned and ready for assembly
    Moton 3-way suspension 350 front (installed) and 500 rear springs which came with the kit, may need 500 front and 750 rear once all aero is on car and tested.
    Cadillac Calipers with STI Rotors, all 4-corners with G-Loc brake pads, R-10 front R-8 rear - received everything but the pads and needs to be installed
    Depowered WRX steering rack with Whiteline Performance bushing kit - not installed yet
    Wilwood pedals installed, deciding on reservoir location

    STI Wiring harness, ecu, and other components ready to ship to Brian at iWire.
    Decided on adding Switch-Pros 8 button panel to replace rocker or toggle switches. Buttons programmed for starter, lights, pump fuel out, cameras, AIM Display 0/I for ecu programming and accessories.

    So looking forward to spending more time on this in the coming months.
    Last edited by Blu; 03-15-2019 at 10:25 AM.

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    WOW... I cannot believe it has been almost a year since I posted anything on here. I really suck at the posting stuff.

    Bought two Seadoo 20’ jet boats to make one, that killed the whole summer. So much fun. The Mercury 2.5 V6 2-stroke likes the fuel especially when at 55 mph full open. Have to say it gets going in a hurry and will pull any skier out of the water faster than anything I have operated before.

    Went to INDY 500 and drove down to meet Mitch Wright, thank you Mitch for everything. We owe you a heart felt thank you for the experience, totally amazing and we still talk about it today. Again Thank you for your hospitality.

    Entered a 3 hour endurance race with my son in a borrowed car, finished, though only in the top ten as the car overheated 2 hours into the race. Lost 9 minutes which really sucked as we were in the top 5 at the time.

    Moving onto the build: With work and play commitments the build took a back shelf (like many) although I am very inspired to complete it for this race season.

    I wasn’t completely idle as I ordered a few parts, so time to start assembling those parts.

    Very Cool parts trailing arms from Wayne
    IAG stage 2 EJ short block with new OEM halves, STD bore 99.5 mm IAG Spec Pistons, IAG Spec H-Beam Rods, OEM Crank. GSC Power-Division Single Valve Spring set w/ titanium retainers, GSC STD size 32mm exhaust valve set, GSC STD size 36 mm intake valve set, JE Pro seal head gasket
    Killer B oil pan, Pickup. It came with the baffle kit however I will be using the arc tangent oil control baffle
    IAG AOS competition series
    iWire harness, engine harness, Switch Pros Panel/PDM
    Cadillac Brembo Brakes x 4
    CTS-V Brake swap
    12.8 STI rotors x 4
    ARP Wheel studs with Muteki lug nuts
    Rear lower lateral control arms from FFR
    I am positive there are more parts on the shelf, cannot remember what they are at the moment.

    Biggest debate has been the Halo design. First of all I was very reluctant to modify any of the structure as I only wanted to add to it. After many adult beverages we agreed to move forward and not worry about the lovely white powder coating, lol.
    Decision is to add NASCAR style crash bars and bottom nerf bar on both sides without removing the existing square tubing. The side angle support bar and maybe one round tube by my elbow will be removed. Pictures to follow.

    The Halo is designed, fabrication starts in 2-weeks, more to come on that.

    Lots happening, will post pics later.
    Last edited by Blu; 01-28-2020 at 10:18 AM.

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    Always forget to post pictures, I appreciate it when others do as the image says so much more than the words.

    My son built a house around the corner, this is the mess I was left with after parting out 20 or so Subaru's plus 5 years of SM racing and rallycross.
    Time to gut it and clean it, before i move the 818r in to its new home.
    IMG_6308.JPG IMG_6309.JPG

    Time to paint floor to ceiling and get rid of that horrible yellow from the previous home owner
    IMG_6460.JPG IMG_6463.JPG IMG_6465.JPG

    Picked up these nice cabinets at an auction
    IMG_6473.JPG

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  34. #23
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    New home for the race car and parts.
    IMG_6514.JPG IMG_6512.JPG IMG_6514.JPG IMG_6481.JPG

    I eventually removed all the packaging. Easier to locate stuff and less of a clutter.

    Tried to delete the image below and or rotate it.. wasn't successful with that.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Blu; 01-29-2020 at 07:45 AM.

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    As i mentioned I do not have a donor car due to the fact there is a ton of Subaru parts around. The only downfall to that is scrounging around for the correct part, model, year that works. Our wonderful snowy white climate is great (at times) except when the government tries to remove all of it with salt. Vehicles have a 12 -14 year life span and when they are done, they are rust buckets.

    All the parts are thoroughly cleaned, powder coated or painted. Tried powder coating with Chrome, I think it turned out ok.
    IMG_7122.jpgIMG_7210.jpgIMG_7075.jpgIMG_7123.jpg
    Last edited by Blu; 01-29-2020 at 08:35 AM.

  36. #25
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    Weight is the enemy on a race car and so is unnecessary pieces. Cut the front CV axle for a clean look and save weight. Do not use a band saw.... takes forever. Zip cut blades make quick work of it. the ABS ring was also removed.
    IMG_7288.jpgIMG_7291.jpg
    Last edited by Blu; 01-29-2020 at 08:36 AM.

  37. #26
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blu View Post
    As i mentioned I do not have a donor car due to the fact there is a ton of Subaru parts around. The only downfall to that is scrounging around for the correct part, model, year that works. Our wonderful snowy white climate is great (at times) except when the government tries to remove all of it with salt. Vehicles have a 12 -14 year life span and when they are done, they are rust buckets.

    All the parts are thoroughly cleaned, powder coated or painted. Tried powder coating with Chrome, I think it turned out ok.
    Attachment 121582 Attachment 121583 Attachment 121584 Attachment 121585
    Quote Originally Posted by Blu View Post
    Weight is the enemy on a race car and so is unnecessary pieces. Cut the front CV axle for a clean look and save weight. Do not use a band saw.... takes forever. Zip cut blades make quick work of it. the ABS ring was also removed.
    Attachment 121586 Attachment 121587
    Attachments do not work
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

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    Photos work for me.

  39. #28
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    How odd - photos didn't work for me on one computer but did work on another...

    Anywho - great looking parts! Those lower control arms really pop!
    "Weight transfer is the enemy."

    Executive Director
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  40. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Santiago View Post
    How odd - photos didn't work for me on one computer but did work on another...

    Anywho - great looking parts! Those lower control arms really pop!
    I think it was a forum issue. Didn’t work this morning but does now for me.

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    Found these Whiteline Lower control arm bushings which work perfect. No need to build up with washers or spacers as directed with the stock one. Changed all bushings in the control arms with Whiteline synthetic elastomer bushings.
    IMG_7300.jpg IMG_7304.jpg IMG_7305.jpg

  42. #31
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    Suspension is installed to ensure everything fits and aligns, nuts are missing as I plan to take it apart again. Once the halo and NASCAR crash bars are complete the car will be stripped and sent to powder coat the new added steel.
    IMG_8393.jpg IMG_8389.jpg IMG_8390.jpg IMG_8392.jpg IMG_8394.jpg

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  44. #32
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    The steering rack was done twice - The first one I depowered cleaned and painted was not an Impreza rack, who knew?. Not sure what is was from as the tie rod would not go past the control arm bolt. So, found a 2004 WRX rack and did the work all over again. Fun times. Picture is all the parts off the rack and the first one I prepared along with the column.
    IMG_8395.jpg
    Last edited by Blu; 02-03-2020 at 07:17 AM.

  45. #33
    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Finally, another one using the Cadillac Brembo brakes, excellent! You won't regret it, they work great, I love them.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

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  47. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobby Racer View Post
    Attachments do not work
    When logged in on my PC I see the thumbnails but not on my iPad. Strange

  48. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobby Racer View Post
    Finally, another one using the Cadillac Brembo brakes, excellent! You won't regret it, they work great, I love them.
    I really enjoyed reading your build and was inspired to try the Cadillac Brembos especially when I looked into the cost. I really like the universal fit of having all the same calipers and rotors. A mid engine rear wheel drive car would have a better balance of braking with it in my opinion.

  49. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blu View Post
    I really enjoyed reading your build and was inspired to try the Cadillac Brembos especially when I looked into the cost. I really like the universal fit of having all the same calipers and rotors. A mid engine rear wheel drive car would have a better balance of braking with it in my opinion.
    I also monitor my front and rear brake hydraulic pressures. With the mid engine setup and the Cadilac Brembos I actually use MORE rear pressure than front pressure. It makes for very confident and smooth braking. The car does not dive, it just squats down and stops!
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018
    818R rebuild with a JDM Honda K24A

  50. #37
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    I had the same experience with the AP brakes.

  51. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blu View Post
    Weight is the enemy on a race car and so is unnecessary pieces. Cut the front CV axle for a clean look and save weight. Do not use a band saw.... takes forever. Zip cut blades make quick work of it. the ABS ring was also removed.
    IMG_7288.jpgIMG_7291.jpg
    As per post # 25 this was the finished result
    IMG_8412.jpg

  52. #39
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Sep 2012
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    Cincinnati OH
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobby Racer View Post
    I also monitor my front and rear brake hydraulic pressures. With the mid engine setup and the Cadilac Brembos I actually use MORE rear pressure than front pressure. It makes for very confident and smooth braking. The car does not dive, it just squats down and stops!
    I ran the first summer of autocross and half a dozen track days with square calipers and square pads. I'm running 235 tires in front and 255 in the rear about 22 psi cold in both. To test balance I did about 20 eighty mph panic stops with a couple of minutes rest between each.

    Each stop I would increase the braking force until something would lock. I was very happy with the braking with no PV. The rear was locking first. I now have a PV in the rear with it turned down only slightly.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  53. #40
    Member
    Join Date
    May 2018
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    About to order a new radiator and would like your opinion :

    Do I order a custom radiator that stands vertical, versus a standard Subaru radiator (dimensional) that leans back?

    I plan on adding a AWIC that will sit in-front of the rad.

    What is the experience of radiator purchase along with AWIC?

    As others have done I plan on enclosing the radiator area to direct the air flow through the AWIC/Radiator from front to hood vent.

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