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Thread: Need help with a few questions

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
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    Need help with a few questions

    Now that I've had a chance to go-cart the hot rod I would like to make a few observations and see if you guys have a few answers.
    I have a 2017 Coyote with a Tremec TKO600 and Wilwood brakes.

    Observation #1: I followed the directions for the Wilwood brakes to the letter but after go-carting i noticed a rattle like sound in right rear brakes. I took them apart and realized the mounting bracket to the caliper was just touching the rotor. The Moser rear axle has 1/8" slop in it so i guess just enough to make bracket rattle against rotor. These brakes have a ridiculously tight tolerance to the rotor and I already had 4 spacers in there. I went out and purchased some grade 8 spacers to give me another 1/16", hopefully should do the trick. Also, when I went to put caliper back on rotor the pads were too tight because i fiddled with the parking brake while the caliper was off, big mistake, wow, was that a colossal pain to screw the piston back in! I had the cube tool to screw piston in but there is no way to get a spreader in there since the outer part of the caliper is solid. Anyone have any tricks here and were your Wilwood brake tolerances that tight?

    #2: I can't get tach to work (autometer). Called FFR and they said to set dip switches to 4 cyl 2 pulse which i did and still nothing, i made sure ground and power is good and i soldered into #8 cyl wire as per directions. Any thoughts here? Do i need the dreaded tach adapter?

    #3: I cant get speedo to work. Can someone give me some tips for the coyote and a Tremec? Directions are very vague and didn't find much online. seems like i have several wires to choose from and connectors?

    #4. With the Coyote, does the PCM start the car? I have to hold the key to the start position for it to start, starts up great but I thought once you engage starter you could let go of switch and the car would continue to crank until start.

    #5 When I was ready for my initial start of the engine, 3..2..1..nothing...bwah bwah bwah....turns out it was a faulty connector to the clutch safety switch wire. The switch tested fine but no juice coming out back side of connector, hard to test with multimeter and pcm plugged in. We just jump started the starter to get around it at first. I eventually just cut the connector off and tied wires together, starts right up now, i will have to replace the connector to get the safety switch to work, I knew that 40 cent piece of crap switch would get me in the end!

  2. #2

    Join Date
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    I've got an LS3 so this may/may not work for you.
    For the tach I had to use a 10K resistor between the +12 and tach signal.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  3. #3
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Hey Dan, to address your item #3 and possibly #2. If you look at my build thread post #118, https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Rod-1028/page2, we have the result of troubleshooting this issue. If you look up the Autometer instructions, you will find that you will use the last hookup option for the instruments https://www.autometer.com/media/manual/2650-1164.pdf its the last diagram on the PDF. Here is a pic of the back of all the connections we ended up have using the Autometer gauges.
    20180503_204157.jpg 20180503_194208.jpg 20180503_191404.jpg 20180503_204218.jpg
    I have a 2013 5L Coyote with a TKO 600 as well so the setup should be very similar. There may just be a slight different setup on the ECM that's all.

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