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Yearly safety inspection
Hi guys I know I've seen it before I used the search function but couldn't find it. Is there a list an inspection list of what we should look at lube, examine etc when we pull our cars out of storage for a driving season? I'd appreciate it if you guys could point me to it.
thanks in advance
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Super Moderator
Here is the list I use:
Drive Line
□ Radiator hose’s - squeeze lower - checking for softness
□ Fan blades - look for cracks
□ Transmission fluid
□ Clutch cable - open cover and check end of cable - it tends to break at the lower end of the cable
(also check where cable leaves engine compartment that it's well away from exhaust!)
□ Check the 2 bolts for the shifter handle (on the T5 transmission)
□ Clutch inspection cover to have a look at the clutch disk
□ Check under side of side exhaust pipes where rear bracket welds to the side exhaust for cracks
□ Driveshaft Bolts (Grease)
□ Header Bolts, Exhaust System
□ Belt(s)/Pulleys or replace them every 70,000 miles
□ Carb- check-replace fuel filter(s)
□ Rear end fluid level
□ Change Oil
□ Coolant Level / Condition
□ Fuel Lines
□ Engine / Transmission Mounts
Suspension / Brakes / Steering
□ Clean and repack wheel bearings (replace them at 100,000 miles)
□ Brake fluid - flush and replace at 100,000 miles - or not a bad idea after hard day at open track event!
□ Inspect brake flex hose for rubbing on shocks and that plate you attached to the frame is still tight
□ Look closely at rear flexible brake hose - ends to be sure it's not been stretched
□ E-Brake cables that "slide" under the frame pipe - look for wear
Check the short e-brake cable
□ U joints for wear - move up/down side to side - there should not be any movement in the joint
□ Tie rod ends & ball joints (Grease)
□ A-Arms (Grease)
□ Rear Control Arms (Grease)
□ Ride Height (in case of sagging) = Front 4”/ Rear 4.25”
□ Shocks (ride height torque = 55 max
□ Brakes pads and/or shoes
□ Calipers
□ Brake Lines
□ Steering Linkage (all fasteners)
□ 3-Link Mounts (Grease) large = 120 max, smaller = 85 max
Other
□ Battery mounts - check bolts make sure they are tight!
□ Wire connectors, all you can reach
□ Seat bolts/nuts
□ Seat Belts
□ Fire Extinguisher
□ Body Mounts
□ Bumper Mounts
□ Wind Wings / Visor mounts
□ Light Bulbs
□ Tire Pressure __24_F, __24___R
□ Lug Nuts Torque = 85max
□ Fuel Filler
□ Door Latches
□ Mirrors
□ License Plate Mount
Torque Specs according to FFR Build School at Mott Community College hand out material and documents
Front suspension
Upper control Arms adjustment bolts 60
Upper control Arms mounting bolts 100
Bracket (Spindle) 70
Shock (bottom) 70
LCA 110-150
Shock Bracket (Lower Arm) 55-70
Ball Joint (upper) 80-120
Ball Joint (lower) 80-120
Rear Suspension
Upper control Arm to axle 70-100
Upper control Arm to frame 80-105
Lower Control Arm to axle bracket 70-100
Lower Control Arm to frame 80-105
Lower Control Arm Bracket to axle 90
Shock Bracket, Lower 55-70
Shock, Top 25-30
Shock bottom 45-60
Quad Shock bracket to frame 56-70
Quad Shock to bracket 56-70
Quad shock to axle 56-70
Rear Suspension (3-Link)
Pan hard Bar 250
Upper frame mount 90
Rear Suspension (IRS)
Rear Axle nut 250
Shock (upper/lower) 70
Spindle attachment 100
Driveshaft to center section 70-95
Steering Rack/Shaft
Steering Rack Bolts 30-40
Tie Rod Ends 25-35
Pillow blocks 20
Exhaust
Straight Pipe 35
Engine/Transmission
Transmission Mounts (Tranny to mount) 25-35
Transmission mount (Mount to frame) 25-35
Engine mount (Engine to mount) 35-60
Engine mount (Mount to frame) 50-105
Driveshaft bolts 70-95
Lights/ Trim accessories
Windshield 90
Quick Jacks 60
Body Bolts 20
Miscellaneous
Wheel lug nuts 80-105
Pedal box (front plate upper) 35
Pedal box (Frame down tube) 10
I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....
“Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
-- Jacques Schnauzee "World Famous Racecar Driver"
"If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue
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Post Thanks / Like - 3 Thanks, 2 Likes
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Senior Member
Great list. I'm a safety loonie, so I'm going to steal this and use it when the time comes. Thanks!
Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
Click here for my build thread
Serial #9158
Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines
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Thanks Ray. Copied this out.
Mark
Mk1, Frame #1929 Complete restoration/upgrade. BP 347 with Edelbrock PF4 439/420. 4 link with coilovers. 8.8 3.55, 15” Halibrand, New beefed up T5 w/short throw shifter, Power 4 wheel disc brakes, Custom original style steering wheel, shaft and boss, Heat/AC, Heated seats, PPW wipers w/washers, Forte’s throttle linkage, RT trunk hoop mod, Pusher cooling fans, full LED lighting, custom headrests, 5 point seat belts with sub pass through, Speedhut GPS gauges, battery drop box in trunk, LED courtesy lights, Breeze trunk cubby kit.
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Senior Member
Don't forget to check the upper control arm pivots for binding. The older type is prone to this.
Torque the intake manifold.
Very extensive list.
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Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes