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Thread: 2008 MkIII -- Some Unfinished Business

  1. #1
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Post 2008 MkIII -- Some Unfinished Business

    Forty-one years after finding a '66 Shelby GT-350 Mustang in a field and learning about the Shelby lineage, I finally have the car I really wanted. The GT-350's bigger, badder brother, a 427 Cobra! For many years I've lusted after one but the circumstances were never right for me to own one. Until now...

    Perusing Facebook one day in September 2018, I found a listing for a 2008 MkIII kit in Connecticut that had never been finished. I'll share the details with you over a beer someday, but, to make the story short -- I obsessed over this listing so much that my wife asked a car-builder friend of mine to track the car down, make sure it was legit and that the seller wasn't a Nigerian Prince who wanted cash back! Without my knowledge, they found the car, verified the authenticity and then my wife bought it for me as a surprise for my birthday! (Yes, I'm keeping her!)

    Two weeks later, I went to Groton, CT to check out the car and bring it home. It turned out to be FF# 6602, a kit sold in 2008 to a gentleman in Rhode Island. He had meticulously researched the car and the parts that he installed (2 binders full of research and receipts) and got it to the go-kart stage but never finished it. Fast forward to February 2017 when the second owner, a pilot from Connecticut, bought the car and took it to a sports car racing / restoration shop for completion. Several upgrades and, I suspect, many dollars later, owner #2 lost interest and I bought the car from him.

    I'm now starting the process of checking all previous work done (found 10 loose lug nuts and 6 loose upper control arm pivot bolts so far) by going through the build manual page by page. If I didn't install that piece, I'm checking the torque on the bolts, the fit on the panels, etc. etc.

    I will try to keep this thread updated weekly -- still gotta work and weekends are saved for "Cobra time". I welcome questions, comments, suggestions and, when deserved, an insult or two. I have read many other threads and am so impressed with the friendliness and willingness to share ideas, along with the amazing craftsmanship on so many Roadsters.

    Now, I have some unfinished business to attend to!

    Craig

    MkIII go-kart stage in black gel-coat
    347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, all new internals, roller cam
    1993 Mustang GT donor 5-speed and rear diff (stock 2.73 gears for now)
    Bullitt wheels - 17x9 front, 17x10.5 rear
    Sumitomo tires -- P275/40x17 front, P315/35x17 rear
    Nisonger Smith gauges with GPS speedo
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    Straversi's Avatar
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    Great find. Thanks for sharing the story. Keep us posted.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

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    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Awesome! Welcome to the Factory Five Family of crazy people.... Looking forward to your build updates.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 )
    Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    First Start 11-1-18
    ---- First GoCart 11-7-18
    BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb / Heater / Heated Seats / Cruise Control / Drop Trunk & Battery

    Build Thread Click Here Gel Coat Driver 1/12/19

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    FF6602's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve! Will do!
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

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    Papa's Avatar
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    Craig,

    Welcome to the FFR family! You're in for a fantastic ride.

    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

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  8. #6
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    Welcome aboard, Craig! Good to have you here.

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    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Welcome to the FFR camaraderie! Good times a coming...

    Chris
    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

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  12. #8
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Gas Tank Flange bends??

    So, here's the first of many (I'm sure) questions to come. I am doing a "quality control" audit of all work done by previous owners, and I found the gas tank flange bent up in four spots so that the 3/4" square tubes that come down from the chassis don't mate flush against the flange. See photos

    2018-12-31 14.19.52.jpg

    Flange LF.jpg

    I can only assume that this was done to make the fitting of the tank straps easier, but it almost looks like the flange bends were made when the tank was made. (It's a new tank) The bends are very symmetrical and there are clear tool marks which are all exactly the same, so maybe this is the way it came from the supplier? See the circled areas in this photo...

    Flange Bend Marks.jpg


    Regardless of how, or why, the bends were made, this doesn't look right to me. The assembly manual clearly shows the open end of the 3/4" tube, with the plastic plug (referred to in the manual as part number FF#10996) inserted into the tube end, mating flat against the flange. The way it is now, the plastic plugs have been by the sharp flange edges cutting into them. I am planning on dropping the tank, replacing the damaged plugs and reinstalling.

    Thoughts or advice please? (sorry about the one thumbnail -- I couldn't figure out how to delete it after i noticed that it was rotated)
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    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

  13. #9
    Papa's Avatar
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    You are correct. You need to bend those folded flange areas flat like the rest if the flange around the tank. When you drop the tank to do the flange, it would be a great time to swap the hardware out for stainless.

    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 01-07-2019 at 03:19 PM.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

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  15. #10
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Correct. Those have to be bent flat like the rest of the flange and sit flat against the plastic plugs. You're right, those are factory bent. A Fox body Mustang has those bent to clear the straps. In our case, the tank mounting is designed to have them flat. Just a bit of a warning. It's stated in the manual that those have to be flattened. I'd be on the lookout for other examples of the directions not being followed properly. Should be the case with any purchased partial build.

    Welcome BTW!
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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  17. #11
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Thanks gentlemen!

    Papa, thanks for the tip about replacing the stock hardware with stainless. Great idea! I assume that also means using stainless braided line from the tank to the fuel filter, and then from filter to the electric fuel pump?

    edwardb, I appreciate the cautionary note about "other directions not being properly followed". I've been trying to do this but obviously, since I missed the note in the manual about flattening the flange, I must remember to take my time and double-check MY work also! It's easy to get carried away in the excitement of completing one assembly or another. As my new mantra goes: Read the manual three times, Measure twice, Read it again, Cut once, etc. etc.

    Speaking of fuel tank connections, I have a new rubber grommet for the neck-to-tank connection but not the metal support for the neck. Here's what it looks like now...

    Fuel Filler Neck to Tank 1.jpg


    I assume that I'll need to get one of these supports (looks like a magnifying glass in the photo of a Fox body Mustang below). Does anything else fasten the neck to the tank?

    Fuel Filler Neck Support.jpg
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

  18. #12


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    RE: Flattening the tank flange---only at the front where it contacts the "legs". Keep the bends at the rear. Yes, you should use the "magnifying glass" retainer. I got one for a build recently from either Late Model Restoration, CJ Pony Parts or National Parts Depot (sorry, the memory is foggy and receipts aren't handy). The other end of the filler is retained at the Lemans cap. Looking at your photo in the beginning post I can see that yours is a Mk3.1 which will directly accept the fuel tank cap and won't require you to cut & splice a Mustang fill tube. This is like the Mk4 and makes for a much neater setup.

    Jeff

  19. #13
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF6602 View Post
    Thanks gentlemen!

    Papa, thanks for the tip about replacing the stock hardware with stainless. Great idea! I assume that also means using stainless braided line from the tank to the fuel filter, and then from filter to the electric fuel pump?
    I was only referring to the tank strap hardware. Fuel lines are a whole other topic and you'll get lots of advice when you're ready to do those. I went with flexible braided -6 lines because it seemed easier to me at the time. I may end up replacing the flex lines with hard lines in stainless at some point now that I have the tools to work with it. You still need to do short flex lines from the tank to the hard lines and from the hard lines to your fuel management system (carb or EFI). Be sure that any flex lines you use are PTFE lined.

    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

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    FF6602's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    I was only referring to the tank strap hardware. Fuel lines are a whole other topic and you'll get lots of advice when you're ready to do those. I went with flexible braided -6 lines because it seemed easier to me at the time. I may end up replacing the flex lines with hard lines in stainless at some point now that I have the tools to work with it. You still need to do short flex lines from the tank to the hard lines and from the hard lines to your fuel management system (carb or EFI). Be sure that any flex lines you use are PTFE lined.

    Dave

    Thanks for the clarification Dave. You see where my mind went right away -- to the expensive stuff, not just nuts 'n bolts!! Will keep your advice in mind.
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

  21. #15
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    ....Looking at your photo in the beginning post I can see that yours is a Mk3.1 which will directly accept the fuel tank cap and won't require you to cut & splice a Mustang fill tube. This is like the Mk4 and makes for a much neater setup.

    Jeff
    I've wondered about the differences between a Mk3 and 3.1. What are the differences and how could you tell so quickly from a photo?
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

  22. #16


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    Quote Originally Posted by FF6602 View Post
    I've wondered about the differences between a Mk3 and 3.1. What are the differences and how could you tell so quickly from a photo?
    The biggest news was the introduction of the complete kit. A byproduct of that was that the footbox sheetmetal was modified to accommodate the Wilwood pedal box which was part of the package. The steering shaft was changed and as I mentioned in the earlier reply the Lemans cap and fill tube were revised as well. No noteworthy changes to the chassis or body.

    Jeff

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    Senior Member SSNK4US's Avatar
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    Plus Jeff is Sci-kick..... and a wealth of knowledge!

    Welcome to the madness Craig!!!!!

    Kurt
    If everything seems under control, youíre just not going fast enough....

    Build thread

    MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18

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  25. #18
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Got 4 hours in on the car today. Dropped the gas tank and bent the flanges flat where they contact the 3/4" tubes that extend down from the chassis. Remounted the gas tank temporarily while I secure four square plugs for the tubing and SS hardware for the strap anchors as Papa suggested. No explosions were experienced in this effort!

    Fit the aluminum panels that cover the door sills. Previous owner had done a terrible job of positioning them and drilling the rivet holes. There were a bunch of punch marks all over the square tubing -- I wonder if he had the panels reversed (LH for RH) when he started 'cuz most of the marks didn't line up. Just another thing that reinforces the idea that I need to check this guy's work! I eventually got the holes drilled in all the right places and the panels are cleco'd in-place.

    2019-01-12 20.05.03.jpg
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    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

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    Craig,
    FYI, those door sill panels don't get installed until after the body is installed and in it's final position.

    Jeff

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  28. #20
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    To add to Jeff's point, aren't those pieces supposed to have a flange around the outer edge that matches with the door opening? Looks like they've been trimmed off. You place the pieces (with the body on as mentioned) so that the flange matches with the body and that's where the door opening molding is installed. Positive that's how Mk4's are and pretty sure I remember that from the Mk3 build as well. Maybe they'll work OK the way they are, but hmm...
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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  30. #21
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Thanks, once again, for your insights Jeff and edwardb! I had noticed in the build manual that those "under door" pieces come after the body installation but I guess I never really thought about it much. I am trying to follow the steps in the manual as I check all previous work, so I probably wouldn't have riveted them in place until the appropriate time BUT I do appreciate the reminder. I'll go back and look at them again to check on the flanges that edwardb mentioned.

    Yesterday, 1/27/19, I got five hours in (x2 because a friend joined me to help). He's a British-car guy and is therefore accustomed to working with "spanners", "boots" and nuts that turn "anti-clockwise". But he's very enthusiastic and analytical so I value his assistance during the "quality control" phase of my build. What was the old Cold War saying about nukes? Trust but Verify! That's my motto right now.

    Plus it helps to have an assistant hand me the right spanner when I'm under the car -- at age 65, I'm not as limber as I used to be!

    Checked motor mounts, pedal assembly mount, brake m/c mount, oil pan bolts, header bolts, mechanical throttle linkage, and many other misc. fasteners. All were good except for the set screw on the clutch cable adjuster (up near the firewall) which was a little loose. See photo.

    clutch adjuster set screw.jpg

    Replaced the crushed plastic plugs inside the four 3/4" square tubes that locate the gas tank and replaced the somewhat corroded gas tank strap hardware with SS.

    Have ordered parts to make power steering operable -- the car has a donor '93 Mustang PS rack but all the ports are capped off. Have ordered a new (rebuilt) pump, billet pulley and bracket and associated AN fittings and hose as per Jeff K's advice. Will drive it this first summer with the donor rack and then upgrade to a quicker ratio next winter.

    Makin' progress on the little, but important, stuff now so I won't be tempted to rush, or skip, something when the weather gets warmer!
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

  31. #22
    FF6602's Avatar
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    1/30/19 -- Had to work at home today due to white-out snow squalls and single-digit temps. But that meant I was here to meet yet another UPS driver bringing me more parts! The unfinished Mk3.1 I am working on has a steering rack that I'm fairly certain came out of the donor '93 Mustang GT that supplied the engine, trans and rear end. All the metal hard lines that run from the pinion gear housing to the ends of the rack are gone and the ports capped off. So, I'm in the process of seeing what I have to work with.

    Ordered a PS pump, billet pump bracket and pulley, serpentine belt and a bunch of AN fittings and teflon hose from Breeze. They're all here - plan to get some work time in this weekend.

    I love the smell of billet aluminum in the morning!

    2019-01-30 20.45.55.jpg
    Last edited by FF6602; 01-30-2019 at 08:51 PM.
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

  32. #23
    Mark Dougherty's Avatar
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    Wow
    This is fantastic
    I am in Hershey.
    And go through your town often.
    I have a camp in cooks Forest.
    I’ll contact you the next time I’m cruising through
    The traveling Builder
    717-773-5624

  33. #24
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Mark,

    Thanks for reaching out. I would love to have your thoughts on my build!! I've got lots of questions and would appreciate your expertise. Cooks Forest is north of Brookville, correct? I work with car dealers in North Central PA (I'm a rep for Kelley Blue Book, Autotrader.com and Dealer.com) and have traveled through there between Brookville and Warren.
    Last edited by FF6602; 01-31-2019 at 10:34 AM.
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

  34. #25
    FF6602's Avatar
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    I won't steer you wrong!

    Back in the shop today after 10 days of flu that turned into pneumonia. That's 10 days, including last weekend when it was 55' in Central PA, that I was NOT working on the car!

    Anyhoo...

    1.) Mounted a CFR Performance billet PS pump bracket and a new PS pump. I have a CFR Performance billet PS pulley but I'm puzzled about installing it on the pump. The pulley slid onto the pump shaft with just a little push -- certainly not what I would call a "press on" or interference fit. Do I need a flange bolt or ARP bolt to fasten the pulley to the shaft (which is internally threaded for a 3/8 x 16 bolt)? There's no room for a hex head bolt and washer...

    PS Pulley.jpg


    2.) Continued to check "the other guy's work" as I go through the assembly manual page-by-page. No loose bolts or nuts (except me) to report tonight.

    3.) Installed the 1/2" x 13 coupler nuts for the rear quick jack mounts as recommended by Jeff K.


    Next up: ordering the Breeze 70634 Solid Offset Rack Mounting Kit as I continue to convert from manual to power steering. Might as well install the solid mounting kit when I put the new rack in.
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

  35. #26
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Steering shaft question

    Followers of this thread know that I bought a Mk3.1 kit that someone else started, a second owner worked on and it was never finished. I'm going through the 2008 assembly manual, one page at a time, checking the "other guys" work. Yesterday, I found three items related to the steering shaft installation that may be a concern and I'd like to solicit your feedback.

    Note: I'm using a PS rack from a '93 Mustang GT.


    1.) Pages 64-66 provide instructions on mounting the 1" flange bearing the driver's side footbox. The instructions include this photo:

    Steering Shaft Flange Bearing _ Assy Manual Pic.jpg

    But my car's flange/shaft looks like this:

    Steering Shaft Flange Bearing _ engine side.jpg

    I don't see the exposed length of the upper steering shaft or the jam nuts referred to on page 66, step #9 "Tighten the set screws and the jam nuts on both joints and the 1" locking collar." Does this look right?


    Thanks to all who read this and respond with your input / ideas / wisdom. I


    2.) Here's a pic of the lower shaft where it mates to the steering box. Does this look right?

    Steering Shaft Lower to PS Box.jpg


    3.) Page 66, step 8 instructs the builder to "....place the two Bellville washer in the circular spaces on the shaft and insert the shaft into the 1" DD tube.". I took the pillow block off (because the bolts used were the wrong size! #trustbutverify) and I didn't see the Bellville washers. Perhaps I'm looking in the wrong place. Where should I find them? Here is a pic of the flange bearing on the footbox side if that helps:

    Steering Shaft Flange Bearing _ footbox side.jpg


    I solicit your feedback, questions and wisdom. Thanks!
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

  36. #27
    edwardb's Avatar
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    1 & 2 -- You have a newer style steering shaft than what's pictured in your manual. Looks OK to me.

    3 -- The Belleville washers are at the very end of the upper shaft. You'll need to pull it almost all the way out and you'll see the two circular cutouts in the flat section of the upper shaft. Each should have a cone-shaped spring washer in the cutout. This isn't necessarily the right size, but they look like this: https://www.mcmaster.com/9712k51.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

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  38. #28
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Steering shaft Flange bearing mounted incorrectly?

    Ok gang...next questions.

    1.) In my effort to verify work done before my ownership, I decided to take check all the steering shaft bearings and u-joints. When I unfastened the bolts that hold the flange bearing to the firewall/footbox, I found both sides of the bearing collar on the engine bay side. See the attached photo.

    It didnít look right so I checked the assembly manual and found a reference to having the collar on the footbox side (I.e. the driverís side of the footbox). Hence I need to take this apart and move the collar to the other side of the footbox, correct?

    98765FC5-AA65-4A5D-A53E-1C62F432375B.jpeg



    2.) I have also been wondering about the mounting of the brake m/c to the firewall. There is about 3/8Ē of a soft, black, mastic or putty, between the m/c and the pedal assembly. See the attached photo. The only reason I can think of is that it was an attempt to prevent water from entering the footbox. Does it serve some other purpose? Do I even need it?

    Thanks for your guidance!
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

  39. #29


    Not a waxer
    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Craig, Actually the flange bearing can go on either side, the important thing is that both shells are on the same side (some builders make the mistake of sandwiching the front wall by putting one shell on each side. As for the "goop" I'm going to bet that the original builder spaced the master out from the front wall by using a couple of bolts, washers or some other crude method rather than the proper laser cut spacers that FFR provides. Peel the goop away and see what's going on there. I've got some spacers that I'll be happy to send if you need them.

    As an FYI regarding the steering shaft; the Mk3.1 shaft like yours is the same as a Mk4 however the Mk3 is different.

    Jeff

  40. #30
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Craig, Actually the flange bearing can go on either side, the important thing is that both shells are on the same side (some builders make the mistake of sandwiching the front wall by putting one shell on each side. As for the "goop" I'm going to bet that the original builder spaced the master out from the front wall by using a couple of bolts, washers or some other crude method rather than the proper laser cut spacers that FFR provides. Peel the goop away and see what's going on there. I've got some spacers that I'll be happy to send if you need them.

    As an FYI regarding the steering shaft; the Mk3.1 shaft like yours is the same as a Mk4 however the Mk3 is different.

    Jeff
    Thanks Jeff, for your input on both questions. I especially appreciate your note about not ďsandwiching the front wallĒ because thatís exactly what I was contemplating. Both halves of the shell are on the engine side so I think Iíll leave it that way.

    Regarding the goop - Iíll dig it out of there and check the installation. I found some spacers in the bags of hardware that I got with the car and Iíll bet those are the ones to which you referred.

    I also appreciate your note about the difference between the Mk3 and 3.1 steering shafts. That puts that question to bed!

    At the present time, I can only work on the car on the weekends and sometimes, like this weekend, I can only get 3-4 hours in the shop. I have to be efficient with my time and having this forum to provide guidance really helps! Thanks again for sharing your experience!!

    Best regards,
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

  41. #31
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Marching Forward

    March has brought a little warmer weather - only had to heat the shop for two hours yesterday to get it to 62'! And I'm marching forward with the build too...

    I sent some plastic money via the Interweb and received a 3-link conversion kit and tubular front LCAs from FFR; and a 3-link suspension handling pack; radiator hinge bracket plus cowl opening cover and lower radiator support from Breeze. Also picked up a 2.25 turn PS rack from AutoZone.

    Work accomplished over the past two Sundays:

    • reattached 1" steering shaft flange bearing with both halves of bearing shell on engine bay side of footbox, using proper hardware
    • reseached brake pedal pivot - learned that it was modified by Mike Everson and it's good to go!
    • installed four 1/2" x 13 coupler nuts for rear quick jack mounts

      2019-03-03 13.53.53.jpg
    • removed black putty from around master cylinder spacer; found the correct spacer underneath; will reseal with silicone

      2019-02-24 12.32.46.jpg

      2019-03-03 14.03.20.jpg
    • installed PS pulley on pump; aligned pulleys; found the correct belt length (67") and installed
    • mocked up radiator hinge, cowl cover and lower radiator support; removed radiator afterwards - going to leave it out while I install new PS rack and front LCAs

      2019-03-03 16.36.09.jpg

      2019-03-03 16.36.17.jpg

    • continued checking the "other guy's work"; found missing rivets on footbox-to-firewall; horn bracket loose; radiator fan mount loose


    Lots of little things done but they add up and I'm loving the process!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk 3.1 #6602, unfinished, go-kart stage; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; T5 and donor stock 2.73 rear diff (for now); my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

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