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Thread: Cracked the body when removing it from the chassis

  1. #1
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    Cracked the body when removing it from the chassis

    We were lifting the body off of the chassis for paint and the body cracked near the bottom rear corner of the drivers door. The crack is about 6 long and is completely through the fiberglass. Ive read the suggestion from papa to use a vinylester resin which I have ordered. Any other suggestions on how to repair the crack. My main concern is since this location has a lot of stress on it when flexing the body for installation or removal will the repair withstand the flexing? Rest assured that my over exuberant helper has been flogged unmercifully.

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    I'm probably not the one to answer as to how to do the repair, but just to let you know, I am using a Mr. Bruce's 289 FIA body, and it was shipped to me in two pieces, split directly under the doors on both sides. I had to join the two halves and can let you know that the repair will be as strong as the original glass. There are guys on the forum who can better direct you as to the best way to do the repair, so don't stress about it. Just another skill to learn along the way!

    Rick

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    Make sure that you bevel sides good for more contact, i would do out side first(to finish for looks, then do inside.

  4. #4
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    Thank you for the help. It’s reassuring to know that the body will be good to go. Also the tip on the repair.

  5. #5

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Glass is easier to repair than you think.
    Also, wise move ordering some Vynilester Resin.
    Can you post some pictures or maybe zap us a Youtube Video?
    I can't weld worth a hoot, but like many of the folks on this forum am pretty darn good with fiberglass.
    Again, fiberglass is easier to repair than you think.

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    I’ll take some photos this week as I work on it.

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    Did you use a wood spacer for the cockpit when removing?

    B0EF8D94-C01F-41E5-B171-EFF0B24F4712.jpg

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    I'm curious what vintage body this is. The Mk4 has significantly improved strength under the doors - I'd be surprised if one of those broke.

    ** edit - I see from your intro thread that it's indeed a Mk4, so count me surprised. How much abuse did your exuberant helper give it? Do you feel like they went too far and you're not surprised it broke or do you feel like it shouldn't have broken for how it was handled?
    Last edited by initiator; 01-10-2019 at 03:14 PM.
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, Roller: 12 Jan 2018

    Forte: 2016 Coyote & cover, alternator, engine controls, clutch kit, bellhousing, Moroso pan, TKO600, midshift, 3.55 axle, 190lph fuel pump, Spectre air inlet and filter. Breeze: battery forward and switch, fuel pressure regulator and braided hose, radiator shroud and mounts. Replicaparts: radiator panel, under dash panel, weathertight connectors.

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    As we were removing the body it was caught on something around the door opening. Before I could react my helper lifted it in an effort to get it over the obstruction. The crack was not due to lack of strength in the body but rather that is was pushed beyond the point that the body could flex.
    I don’t think it was a flaw in the design or fabrication of the body.

  10. #10
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    I just added several photos that show the crack from both side and one photo after I started removing material for the repair. If anyone has any suggestions on the repair I would love to hear it. I’m waiting for the vinylester resin to come in.

    Thanks
    Robert

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by vette57 View Post
    As we were removing the body it was caught on something around the door opening. Before I could react my helper lifted it in an effort to get it over the obstruction. The crack was not due to lack of strength in the body but rather that is was pushed beyond the point that the body could flex.
    I don’t think it was a flaw in the design or fabrication of the body.
    Thanks for the feedback - much appreciated!
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, Roller: 12 Jan 2018

    Forte: 2016 Coyote & cover, alternator, engine controls, clutch kit, bellhousing, Moroso pan, TKO600, midshift, 3.55 axle, 190lph fuel pump, Spectre air inlet and filter. Breeze: battery forward and switch, fuel pressure regulator and braided hose, radiator shroud and mounts. Replicaparts: radiator panel, under dash panel, weathertight connectors.

  12. #12
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    V out (bevel) the cracks so you have more surface area for you bond to adhere to. there are a few ways (products) to repair. The vinylester is a good one mentioned about. Also Fusser makes a repair bond in a mix tube, but would need an applicator gun. The other way is with normal fiberglass resin and material. With all methods, you should build the back side a bit thicker for support when you can.

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    Thanks for the help.

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