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Thread: Stalemated by oil filter relocation

  1. #1
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    Stalemated by oil filter relocation

    As I thought that I was getting close to dropping the engine in, I wanted to get a few things finished up before I reach that day. I had moved the oil filter off the block to a Hedman, (Hamburger Performance), oil filter relocator, and mounted the other piece of the kit to the block with the hose fittings just loosely threaded in place. Started to install the Ford Performance shorty headers, and there is no way that one is going to work with the other. Header is directly up against the relocator piece on the block, and there would be no way to mount the J pipes to them. I even looked at different hose fittings, but the headers don't even clear the body of the filter relocator. As a note, I'm using the J pipes because it's an FIA build. The oil filter relocator is a nice piece, billet aluminum, etc., but if it won't work it really doesn't matter. I've been bleeding money on this build, and the idea that I need to find something else to replace this part is more than I can deal with right now. I'm not sure if it would be returnable to Summit as I don't have all the original packaging, sooo…..
    Anyhow, I'm more frustrated now than had even got when I was doing the wiring! Thanks for allowing me to vent.

    Rick

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    Quote Originally Posted by EZ$ View Post
    As I thought that I was getting close to dropping the engine in, I wanted to get a few things finished up before I reach that day. I had moved the oil filter off the block to a Hedman, (Hamburger Performance), oil filter relocator, and mounted the other piece of the kit to the block with the hose fittings just loosely threaded in place. Started to install the Ford Performance shorty headers, and there is no way that one is going to work with the other. Header is directly up against the relocator piece on the block, and there would be no way to mount the J pipes to them. I even looked at different hose fittings, but the headers don't even clear the body of the filter relocator. As a note, I'm using the J pipes because it's an FIA build. The oil filter relocator is a nice piece, billet aluminum, etc., but if it won't work it really doesn't matter. I've been bleeding money on this build, and the idea that I need to find something else to replace this part is more than I can deal with right now. I'm not sure if it would be returnable to Summit as I don't have all the original packaging, sooo…..
    Anyhow, I'm more frustrated now than had even got when I was doing the wiring! Thanks for allowing me to vent.

    Rick
    What motor are you using? factory Five has a relocator kit that works on small block Fords with shorty headers and J pipes. you can likely get one from someone on here for short money.

    I "might" have one. I am not sure. If I do you can have it for the cost of shipping if you are interested and if you are using a small block Ford.

    Send me PM if interested.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

  3. #3

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    EZ, I ran into the exact problem with my oil filter relocation. Mine was from Improved Racing and is a very nice billet piece as well. I ended up using the thermostatically controlled filter relocator that I mounted on the X tubes in the front of the chassis but used the FFR part on the motor. It cleared the shorty headers. I did have a little trouble getting the -10 lines to seal but eventually was successful. If you are interested, I can send you pictures.

    Regarding "bleeding" money. As well that seems to be a common occurrence with these builds as times. I know that for me my budget has changed so many times that I have basically just given up trying to create new ones. Good news is, you are going to have a car you really like and enjoy when done. Joel

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    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    FFinisher, I'm doing a 302, and I do have one of the relocators that F5R provides, but with all the negatives I've read about the piece, I was reluctant to use it.
    Joel, oddly enough, that was one of the thoughts I had today, but I didn't check it out cause I was so done with the situation, and needed to walk away and relax for a bit. Although, as i mentioned above, I had a reluctance to using that cast piece, I'm going to check it out as an option.
    Really appreciate the responses. I know I'll get through this, it's still frustrating.
    Thanks.

    Rick

  5. #5
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    FFinisher, I'm doing a 302, and I do have one of the relocators that F5R provides, but with all the negatives I've read about the piece, I was reluctant to use it.
    Joel, oddly enough, that was one of the thoughts I had today, but I didn't check it out cause I was so done with the situation, and needed to walk away and relax for a bit. Although, as i mentioned above, I had a reluctance to using that cast piece, I'm going to check it out as an option.
    Really appreciate the responses. I know I'll get through this, it's still frustrating.
    Thanks.

    Rick

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    Canton has a nice remote filter adapter.
    Jim

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    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    Jim, I was looking at the Canton, and the Moroso pieces online today once I realized the one I had wasn't going to work. Need to make some calls tomorrow to find out how tall they are to make sure they'll clear the header. There's a difference in the port size compared to what I have, 1/2" NPT to the 12AN. I can make it work with a couple adapter fittings. I just can't believe how expensive 12AN fittings are! I need to keep the cost under control so I don't have to sell any body parts to buy what I need to finish.

    Rick

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    Member Jim Doak's Avatar
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    I have the Canton relocator on my 302/347. It's a nice unit, works well, and you can 'clock' it as needed to get the inlet and outlet ports oriented correctly. And I'm also running shorty headers.
    Mk 1.5, 347 with Sniper EFI, T-5, 3-Link with VPM Rear Sway Bar, Power Steering with Hydraboost Brakes, Under Car Exhaust, SAI Mod, Rear Fender Flares, Dropped Trunk Mod, ... (Sold September 2019)

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    Why are you using -12 ?

    Olli

  10. #10
    Member Jim Doak's Avatar
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    I'm running AN-10 sized fittings on my Canton unit and related parts (filter housing, oil cooler and thermostat).
    Mk 1.5, 347 with Sniper EFI, T-5, 3-Link with VPM Rear Sway Bar, Power Steering with Hydraboost Brakes, Under Car Exhaust, SAI Mod, Rear Fender Flares, Dropped Trunk Mod, ... (Sold September 2019)

  11. #11
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    EZ$, the OP, is making reference to using -12.

    Olli

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    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Ford Racing makes a 90 degree adapter that screws into the existing oil filter location and allows you to run a stock filter with the J-pipes. That’s what I used for my 347 MK4 with J-pipes and it works great. I wanted to avoid the quality, complexity and concerns with the FFR oil filter relocation kit. It was less than $100...

    Chris
    Generation 3 Type 65 Daytona Coupe Complete Kit #151885 received May 6, 2022. Gen 3 Coyote, IRS, Tremec TKX, American Powertrain hydraulic throwout bearing & Wilwood brakes.

    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

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    I have same 90 degree adapter. Works great.
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...CABEgKxY_D_BwE
    #8869 Delivered 5/11/2016 Traditional donor build using 1994 Mustang

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by cgundermann View Post
    Ford Racing makes a 90 degree adapter that screws into the existing oil filter location and allows you to run a stock filter with the J-pipes. That’s what I used for my 347 MK4 with J-pipes and it works great. I wanted to avoid the quality, complexity and concerns with the FFR oil filter relocation kit. It was less than $100...

    Chris
    Excellent option. Many have gone this route.

    Olli

  15. #15
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    Jim, thanks for that info. I was pretty sure the Canton unit would clear, but it's great to get first hand knowledge. I was going to give them a call this AM.

    Olli, The unit that I had purchased uses -12AN. I know the Canton uses -10AN, and I know that I can adapt the lines up or down, so that part is easy. I may adapt the -12AN lines down to -10AN and save a few bucks on fittings and lines.

    cgundermann, that's the question I should have asked awhile back! At this point, with the remote filter unit mounted to the frame, I just want to find a way to make this work without abandoning the entire setup.

    Jstanding, thanks for the part reference. Also good to know that it also clears the headers. If all this goes south, I know what I'll need to do.

    Thanks guys.

    Rick

  16. #16
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    The greatest thing I ever did on my old car was the day I pitched the remote filter in the trash can and put on the 90* adapter.

  17. #17
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    Well Rich, I did consider that, but checked with Summit, who I had bought the kit from, and they're still willing to allow me to return it even though it's been almost a year. There's a 10% restocking fee, but better than a sharp stick in the eye. Decided to go with the Canton unit. I can still keep everything I've done, but as usual, it's just more money. God I hope I can start eliminating things that I have to redo. Anyhow, thanks to everyone for allowing me to vent, and thanks for all the ideas.

    Rick

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