BluePrint Engines

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  1
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Gen 3 body mount problem

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like

    Gen 3 body mount problem

    I am having an extremely difficult time getting the body of my early serial number Gen 3 coupe to mount even close to how it should.

    The problem is when the rear of the body is set to the height specified in the manual, the right door sill is up off the frame about a ½ inch in the back. Also, the door opening at the top, rear, is almost above the top roll bar. The drivers side looks perfect. In addition, the side to side wheel well measurement show the rear end about 1 inch to the driver’s side. If the body is pushed over the necessary amount to correct that, it only makes the door opening problems worse. I have exchanged e-mail and pictures with tech support and they have had some suggestions but I still have the problem. I have notched the body for the 1 ½ inch frame tubes and re-positioned the body at least 5 times to try and be sure it wasn’t binding on something. Has anyone had similar issues? If so, how were you able to resolve them? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

    Gary

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Norton, MA USA earth
    Posts
    3,320
    Post Thanks / Like
    I built kit #7 if I remember correctly and don't recall having that problem. the body just kid of fell in place. What happens if you bring the body down on the passenger door sill? Does it then look crooked? Maybe the body has a slight twist to it?
    Mike

  3. #3
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Huntsville, Al
    Posts
    2,100
    Post Thanks / Like
    So mine was an early beta... but this is how I did mine.

    I just threw the body on there... I had to relieve a little around the area of the roll bar as it passes by the window scoop area. The pass side door opening was as far forward as it go and flat on the frame. The driver's side was up a little 3/8-1/2 and about 1/2-5/8 back off from the vertical part of the frame (where the door hinge attaches). Then mount the nose. Now move the nose AND the body around to get the nose straight, even on the chassis. I wouldn't worry about getting the body in the "right" spot until the you have the nose on there. Also for the rear of the body... I didn't measure at all. I let the rear aluminum set the height if the rear. Make sure you put the bulb seal on the aluminum before you put the body on. To me it sounds like the body is too high in the back and to far rotated to the driver's side....

    my .02
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

    FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ

    FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ

    FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's

    FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"

    US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)

  4. #4
    Senior Member John Dol's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Gorham, ME
    Posts
    1,521
    Post Thanks / Like
    Did you store the body off the car properly?
    Heat and cold can influence the shape of the body if not properly supported.
    How long was the body off of the car?

    John
    Finished the "My Coupe, my way" project.

    http://s956.photobucket.com/albums/ae46/jdcoupe1969/
    Coupe #386,17" Team III 245 FR 315 RR, 3-link, T5, 4 wheel disk, power brakes/steering. Sniper EFI
    First start Sept. 18 2013 First go kart Sept 19 2013

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    1,113
    Post Thanks / Like
    I'm on my 3rd Gen3 for body and paint. I do it the way Eric does. I set the back where they want it , hang the doors, hang the nose and slowly bring it all together. Takes me about 40 hours to get it all set, hinged, latched and trimmed before I start body matching...da bat

  6. Thanks erlihemi thanked for this post
  7. #6
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for the input. Looks like I have some work to do.

    Gary

  8. #7
    Mark Dougherty's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Hershey PA
    Posts
    722
    Post Thanks / Like
    yeah what they said.
    The traveling Builder
    717-773-5624

  9. #8
    Senior Member UpNorth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Baie Saint-Paul, QC
    Posts
    341
    Post Thanks / Like
    Guys,
    As a newby taking possesion of his kit by early spring I’d like to know if there is something that I sould do before removing the body off the frame in order to make things easier later (and in my case it’s going to be MUCH later) when time comes to put it back on.
    TIA

  10. #9
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Edmonton Alberta
    Posts
    794
    Post Thanks / Like
    Nothing special, I took 2 - 2x4's and made a "V" with them. The tops supported the side window/roof and kept most of the weight off the area under the doors. The body sat like this on my 4 post lift out of the way all Summer and it fit back on exactly like it did before. I need the lift to store my Mkll for the winter so the body had to go back on the frame. First world problem, 5 cars and a 3 car garage with a lift to fit 4 cars.With the coupe off at the body shop the cars are all inside. I did the build on jack stands, with the aluminum off most of the work is from above.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

FFMetal

Visit our community sponsor