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Thread: F5R seat tracks

  1. #1
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    F5R seat tracks

    OK, so I made the mistake of ordering these with the kit before I had seen the issues that people were having with them.
    Does anyone have a procedure for removing the "studs" without destroying the frames? And why would F5R not just remove them before they box them up, and ship them out? Also, as others have noted, the fasteners supplied don't even match the parts list on the "instructions", and I use that term loosely.
    I know that they are not the best option, but my wife has been nothing but supportive through this never ending build, and had never questioned any purchase I have made, (and there have been some suspect purchases to be sure), and I would like for her to be able to drive the car if she so chooses.
    I've managed to interpret the instructions to get the layout done, but no drilling yet. Any input on these would be greatly appreciated. I've searched as many ways as I could figure to phrase what I'm after, but no luck. I've also looked at some other sliders, that lock on both rails, but they mostly want to sell two sets, and I only want the DS adjustable.

    Thanks guys.

  2. #2
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    I can't remember how I actually did it, but I did knock out the studs like are in the FFR instructions. (My rails are from Jeg's, but it was the same issue). I either used a cutoff wheel like suggested, or just knocked them out whole. Use a solid tube or socket to back up the rail so as not to bend it. Here's some pics, hard to see, but about all I got.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    Thanks for the info. My instructions didn't mention anything about cutting them off with a cutoff wheel. I started to try knocking them out, and got concerned that I'd damage the rails. I'll give that a try tomorrow.

    Rick

  4. #4
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Here are the FFR seat rail instructions. http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/cont...seat-track.pdf. They may be different from what you have.

    Other instructions here. http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/instructions/
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

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    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    boat737, thanks for the links to the current instructions. I purchased back in 2012, and although the instructions I have are revision E, with the effective date of 6/13/11, they do not have the note about the cutoff wheel and pressing out the studs. I'm about to go out to the garage and see if I can get these removed so that I can get the drivers seat installed.

    Rick

  7. #6
    Senior Member Scott Zackowski's Avatar
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    I suspect you will stick with the FFR tracks as long as you can get them modified.
    All of the seat tracks require some modifications.

    Here are 2 other dual locking seat tracks that others have used. I have the Whitby (sponsored vendor) seat tracks and he sells them individually. They are also sold by (perhaps made) Sube Sports and are designed to be somewhat universal. They are very solid and built specifically for the Cobra brand seats. They also sell cobra roadster seats. Perhaps this is where FFR gets their seats. Check out both Whitby's and the Sube websites.

    The other one, similar to the Sube tracks is the SPARCO seat tracks and available on Amazon.

    Both are expensive but very solid and I believe they are suitable for TRACK.
    Last edited by Scott Zackowski; 01-13-2019 at 02:41 PM.

  8. #7
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    Scott, thanks for the info on those seat tracks. Somewhere down the road, I may end up switching to one of these.
    I was able to remove the studs by cutting off the stud, then drilling through the remaining piece in gradually increasing sizes, up to 5/16". At that point, I took a center punch, and hit at the four corners of the square piece until it broke loose. Got all four done in about 30 minutes. Picked up the additional hardware that they say is included but isn't, and got the tracks installed. Drilled the seat frame, and got them mounted. I also cut two half inch pieces of stainless tubing, (I think it waa 1/2" ID), and used them to sleeve the front mounting bolts on the tracks to raise the front of the seat. Much more comfortable position. Seat is much more solid than I expected with just one side locking.
    Thanks to everyone for the help. I'd never be able to finish this without the assistance I've received on the forums.

    Rick

  9. #8
    Senior Member Scott Zackowski's Avatar
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    Glad to hear it worked out.

    The forum help is invaluable to all of our builds.

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