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Thread: Painting a powder coated frame

  1. #1
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    Painting a powder coated frame

    I painted the front section of my powder coated frame and the paint didn't stick. I cleaned it with lacquer thinner and then used a base/clearcoat auto paint. After a week it could be peeled off with your finger nail. I'm in the process of stripping it now.
    Years ago I painted a tow truck wrecker assy that came from the factory primed and I applied a product called XIM and then the acrylic enamel paint. It held up great. Has anyone tried a similar product or have advise? Thanks

  2. #2
    Senior Member JOP33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GBPCAZ View Post
    I painted the front section of my powder coated frame and the paint didn't stick. I cleaned it with lacquer thinner and then used a base/clearcoat auto paint. After a week it could be peeled off with your finger nail. I'm in the process of stripping it now.
    Years ago I painted a tow truck wrecker assy that came from the factory primed and I applied a product called XIM and then the acrylic enamel paint. It held up great. Has anyone tried a similar product or have advise? Thanks
    By all means I am not an expert on this, but we actually powder coat where I work and anytime that we have to re-coat or change from powder to wet on something, we actually have to burn the powder off or blast it off prior to the re-coat.
    33' Hot Rod Coupe/Roadster (GEN 1), Fendered, Ford 302, 350hp, EFI, AOD, 4-Link, Double Adjustable Koni Coilovers, Split Rear Exhaust, Electric Power Steering, AC/Heat/Defrost, Moser 8.8"-3.55, Willwood Front/Rear Brakes, 18" x 8" Fronts/20" x 10" Rears, Ordered: 1.26.17, Arrived: 3.29.17, First Start: 7.2.18, Go Cart: 11.4.18 Paint/Body: 2.23.19, Back Home: 11.24.19, Completed: NEVER!; View More Pics @ https://starmobileone.com/

  3. #3
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    I've touched up my FFR powder coat with Eastwood 2K Gloss Ceramic Chassis Black. It was a perfect match and has held up for a year now. This is a two-part automotive enamel that is resistant to chipping and fading.

    Sanded the areas to be painted, prep-sol cleaned, and sprayed it. After a couple days I went back and polished to blend and remove what little orange peal -- you can't tell the difference between the paint and powder coat.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

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    Unless you rough up the surface like NAZ said paint won't stick.
    Anytime I've stripped powder coating off a part I've used paint stripper. I've found that the aircraft stripper that you spray on doesn't really work as well as paint store stripper that you brush on.
    Eastwood sells a stripper for powder, that doesn't work too well either.
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  5. #5
    EFI Rules and Carbs Drool Arrowhead's Avatar
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    Well for starters lacquer thinner isn't the best to prep a surface for paint. It evaporates pretty quickly and when it does it can leave contaminants behind. It's ok to use to remove the bulk of the grime though. You also need to give it some teeth so scuffing with a red scotch brite pad or sanding sponge is best (especially for odd shaped surfaces like our frames). I prep everything after sanding with a 50/50 mix of 90% iso alcohol and distilled water (that's basically the formula for water borne wax and grease remover). To paint my already professionally powder coated frame, I shot a coat of reduced epoxy for grip, then base and clear. Properly applied it's almost as tough as the powder coat.

    Original blue powder coat
    20170801_200323.jpg

    Black epoxy primer
    20170805_182919.jpg

    Dark metallic grey / clear
    20170805_204613.jpg


    20170922_153132.jpg
    Last edited by Arrowhead; 01-14-2019 at 12:59 PM.

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