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Thread: Permanently attaching aluminum panels...when?

  1. #1
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Permanently attaching aluminum panels...when?

    Hi Guys,

    I just finished installing my fuel lines. My brake lines are in, but I may go back and make a change to the one that runs down the front of the foot box. I think my next step is to start on the wiring harness. So far the only aluminum panels I have permanently attached to the frame are the F panels and the front of the footbox. It has been very handy to be able to remove the floor panels and the trunk panels while doing the brakes and the fuel lines. However, now that I am about to start the wiring, I was wondering if I should start making some of the panels permanent parts of the car? For instance, should the foot boxes and the firewall be attached to the frame before the wiring (except the outer and top of the driver side)? I can see leaving the trunk loose for now, but how about the cockpit floor?

    Thanks,

    Frank
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
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  2. #2

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    If you've got the fuel and brake lines done then consider doing these items as well:

    1...Get the rear wiring harness mounted prior to installing the trunk floor.
    2...Drill and temporarily install your roll bar(s) prior to installing the rear cockpit and trunk side panels.
    3...Install or at least mock up E-Brake system (Cable & Handle) prior to installing the right floor pan.

    Good Luck From The Dark Dart Side!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 01-16-2019 at 10:05 AM.

  3. #3
    On a roll Al_C's Avatar
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    Steve's comments are on the money. Once your panels are in place permanently, you lose access from above. Of course, if you have a lift that may not be a problem. I have delayed permanently installing aluminum for as long as possible. About the only thing I have left to do is test all the lighting wiring so now I'm finally doing cockpit aluminum. It really helped having a lot of bare areas (like the transmission tunnel) where I had access from above. Just my two cents.
    Mk IV Roadster - #8650 - delivered 7-17-2015 - first start 7-28-2018 - first go-kart 10-13-2018 - licensed and on the road 9-9-19: body/paint completed 3-17-2020.
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  4. #4
    JohnK's Avatar
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    Piggybacking off of Frank's question a bit... I have a roadster kit arriving next week and I ordered the chassis uncoated so I could PC it in a different color. I'm planning to PC all the aluminum panels the same color as the chassis but much later, after they've all been test-fitted. I'll put them all in bare with cleko's initially. However, I see that a lot of foiks permanently mounting the F-panels early in the build. Presumably, not doing so impact the ability to move forward with other things. Are there any other panels besides the F-panels that I should PC at the same time as the chassis and install pemanently early in the process or should I leave everything else bare and mounted with cleko's for as long as possible?

  5. #5
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    John,
    I waited to mount my F panels until the entire front end was done. Only when it came time to run the hard brake lines, did I cleco the panels in place. Once the hard lines were done, I went ahead and riveted the panels in place. I also powder coated my chassis and panels the same color. The color of the aluminum rivets is nicely contrasted by the light grey panels. The other nice thing about not getting the chassis powder coated is that it gives you a chance to knock all the weld splatter off the frame as well. Just when you think you've got all of it, roll the chassis on it's side and spend another hour working on it. While it's bare, make all the mods you need to. Once it's coated, it really hurts to purposely take the coating off.

    Scott

  6. #6
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies guys! So as I'm taking the comments...I'd be fine installing the foot boxes and the firewall and then holding off on the rest?
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
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  7. #7
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Hi Frank,

    A few thoughts for you:

    1. Pay attention to Go-Dad's recommendations.
    2. If you're installing peel-n-stick sound dampener, I recommend installing that on the panels before riveting them in.
    3. Test fit your electrical harness BEFORE you install the inside foot box panel. You may need to widen the hole into the engine bay, or you may appreciate the access for drilling & tapping the 2" frame for R-clamps to secure the electrical harness. This comment may not apply to the new F5 aluminum; if not, disregard.
    4. DON'T install the outside of the foot box until you absolutely have to do so. You'll appreciate the access, especially if you decide you want a clutch or throttle stop.
    5. If you're routing your rear brake line down the inside of the foot box, figure out where you want the hole in the floor before mounting the cockpit floor. It may be easier to drill that hole before you permanently mount the panel.
    6. If you're installing a drive shaft loop, you may find that the emergency brake cables rub agains it. Fixing that interference is MUCH easier if the floor panels can be removed. Double check after you move the cables that they don't end up rubbing the floor; I didn't, and had to make a very ugly mod under the car.
    7. I don't recall any issues with mounting the firewall early.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
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    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  8. #8
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    F panels can go in later, just plan ahead on rivet locations so that you'll be able to get your rivet tool in place with the suspension installed. I generally do the front bulkhead and engine side of the driver's footbox, the entire passenger box, tunnel horseshoe and firewall early.

    Jeff

  9. #9
    Richard Oben's Avatar
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    We took a running driving go cart to the alignment shop with only the inside and front of both foot boxes installed, that was all, we did set ride height though. We had the floors and foot box bottoms just clekoed in place. In my opinion do not install unless you absolutely have to. For example Trans mount is way easier without floors. It was much easier to install the carpet with the outside of the foot box not installed. We could glue the carpet put it in place on the front and then put the outer on and not fight all the braces. The body guy will love you if the F panels are left off, it makes the hood so much easier to fit, trust me here. In short do not install a panel just to get something done.

    We drill all the panels and frame (except splash panels) on day one or two, No more sparklies all over after that. It will kill your arm and a few drill bits but save a ton of time. HTH, Richard.
    Richard Oben FFR builder www.northracecars.com

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  10. #10
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    I drilled and fastened aluminum panels with a few sheet metal screws as needed and riveted only when I couldn't imagine a reason to remove.
    358 SBC, Winters QC, Sweet mfg, Coleman, AP Racing, ARS, TKO 600, Fuel Safe

  11. #11
    Papa's Avatar
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    Frank,

    All good advice so far. One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is to be sure to install the trunk floor before the rear cockpit wall or you will have a bugger of a time riveting in the trunk floor with the cockpit wall in place. Also, if you make the trans tunnel cover removable instead of riveting it in place, you can get easy access to the transmission and any electrical you run through the tunnel. The e-brake is most easily accessed from below and should be installed and working before dropping in the engine/trans.

    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 01-16-2019 at 07:50 PM.
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  12. #12
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    Before you powder coat you might want to weld in some extra steel to mount your seats to. Check your seat fit to see if you might need this. Also I welded on some grounding studs in convenient locations to avoid drilling holes. Then I used Por 15.
    This was meant as a response to JohnK in post 4.
    Last edited by Ian G; 01-16-2019 at 09:59 PM.

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  14. #13
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    Late to the party, but My 0.02cents.

    I only permanently installed the firewall and the front transmission tunnel wall panel permanently early in the build until I was confident I wouldn't need to remove other panels for access to an area that may become unreachable underneath them. I don't have a lift, so my 6'4" self loved the ability to move the panel out of the way if needed.

    A huge reason I enjoyed this build was due to having the car in the skeleton form without a body or needing to crawl underneath all the time.

    I did do all the panel drilling early, and held panels in place with clecos when needed during the build. But it wasn't until I was coming in for the finish that I permanently riveted the panels in place. (And some are still in place with clecos). In my book, no hurry.
    Last edited by DadofThree; 01-17-2019 at 11:26 AM.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
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  15. #14
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    I riveted & bonded in panels as soon as nothing would go below or behind them. Trunk floor before rear cockpit bulkhead. Last three pieces were the outside of the foot boxes with insulation & carpet attached & the top of the drivers side foot box. The rest of the interior insulation & carpet was already finished. Tunnel top & U-Joint cover (has my power cutoff switch) were made removable & fastened with black trim screws.

    Worked out OK for me as have had no issues with maintenance access.
    Kevin
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  16. #15
    Senior Member Yama-Bro's Avatar
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    Great replies and advice. Thanks guys. It sounds like I need to practice some patience and hold off installing the panels for a little longer.
    Started dreaming of a Cobra around 1987
    Purchased Complete Kit 6/9/2017, Delivered 9/4/2017, Rolling Chassis 3/30/2018, Engine Dyno'ed 3/4/2022, Engine installed 8/27/2022
    Click here for my build thread
    Serial #9158
    Design Engineer at BluePrint Engines

  17. #16
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    I ran my fuel and electrical under the car then installed all the panels but the top of the drivers foot box so I could access the pedal box. I ran the brake lines after the panels as I wrapped my rear line around the for box and I needed it in place to do so. I also waited on the fire wall till I had my wiring laid out where I was going through the firewall. Then I install that taped all the holes and pedal box off and sprayed lizard skin and lizard insulation. Worked great and looks very professional. In all honisty there isn’t a wrong time to install the panels it just makes things easier to install the the drivers foot box top, firewall and potentially transmission tunnel top last.
    Mk4, Moser M88 rear end, Eaton truetrak, Craft Racing 461 Windsor, MMR pro trans, Glenn’s 1,000 hp cobra fuel system and lots of other parts.

  18. #17
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    There is no 'wrong time' to install them. You can do every panel first if you want, just makes brake and fuel lines, as well as electrical harder to do. As a newby on my first car, I had about 90% of the panels in place first. I didn't have to take any off, but installing some things was harder that it needed to be.

  19. #18
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Once I installed the fuel and brake lines, I installed all panels except the outer and top panel of the driver's side footbox, rear cockpit wall, and the two larger trunk panels. I'm waiting for my first start to install the trunk panels just in case I have any leaks as it will be more difficult to address with them in place.
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18 - SOLD 5/2023
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  20. #19
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    Get the driveline angle set too. Setting the driveline angle and shimming up the transmission was easy without the cockpit rear panel, ds floor, and trunk floor in place.
    MKIV complete kit w/powder coating and cut outs, serial #9189 delivered 10/10/17, first start - 10/5/18, legal - 10/08/20. Blueprint 306 w/Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, power steering, Breeze fan shroud, trunk cubby, & engine compartment battery kit, CNC brake reservoirs, RT turn signal & gas pedal, mechanical throttle linkage, METCO safety loop, GASN side pipes, drop trunk, dual chrome roll bars, vintage gauges, glove box, custom center console, cup holders, and speakers.

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