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Thread: The Colorado "Coop" Build

  1. #41
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    The latest progress has been to get the peddle box done. The brake and clutch are installed and the MC's installed. This went pretty well with no issues. brake-clutch.jpg

    I have spend a lot of time on the accelerator part. The first curve that i had to deal with was that the accelerator seems to have been assembled backwards compared to the manual and the other pics i have seen on here:
    accel.jpg

    I disassembled it and pressed out the pin and then reassembled with the upper arm on the left side of the pivot point. I spend a lot of time thinking about placement and there was a good thread here that help a ton. I have now figured out where i want to mount it. I will be about a inch above the existing hole (2nd from the bottom). I have good clearance around the steering column and will have a nice straight pull through the front panel and the steel steering support. I will provide pics once i drill and mount it!

    I also decided to go with a Lokar cable for the throttle. This has a nice clean connection to the upper arm.

    I have also been thinking and planning on a number of other items.
    1. I have decided to go with an internal pump and the Pro-M hangar. After reviewing the Holley Sniper documentation and the info on the Pro-M web site, I think the 265 LPH High Flow Internal Fuel Pump will work well. I will order those parts soon and then drop the tank and install.

    2. I am planning on the Tilton HRB, so i need a 3rd MC. I had purchased a Tilton MC but found that i had clearance issues with the top of the peddle box because it required a combination of AN adapters and reducers that was a mess. I returned that and now have a Wilwood on order that i know will fit much better.

    This weekend i will drill and mount the accelerator and drill my access for the cable. I will also get the clutch MC mounted up and look at mounting the Tilton 3 chamber res.

  2. #42
    FFR Maven Logan's Avatar
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    What size clutch master-cylinder are you planning to use with the Tilton HRB?
    Logan's Gen 3 Coupe-R Build
    Ordered 4/23/19 | Delivered 6/29/19 | First Start 8/1/20 | First Drive 9/20/20

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logan View Post
    What size clutch master-cylinder are you planning to use with the Tilton HRB?
    If I recall correctly, per the Tilton documentation, it recommended a 13/16 MC. Will check my note and confirm.

    Update: I got the Wilwood 260-10373 13/16" MC.
    Last edited by Gadsden; 09-18-2019 at 08:08 PM.

  4. #44
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    It has been a while since posting, been making progress, but not so good about updates.

    I got the accelerator peddle sorted out and installed. This took a lot of planning, test fitting, etc, before finally drilling the holes. I think I ended up with a good position that clears the steering column and gives me a straight pull of the cable through the hole in the steering support. I ended up going with a Lokar cable also, not installed yet, but mocked up and then put away. Here is how the peddle box ended up:
    20190921_111542.jpg

    Here is a shot with some feet in the box:
    20190921_111613.jpg

    Lastly here is a shot with the aluminum panels off of the foot box:
    20190922_174955.jpg

    Next i moved on to removing the body and all the rest of the panels. Nothing to remarkable about this process. I marked up each panel showing overlap, orientation, etc, assigned it a number code and took pictures. Then i stamped each number code into the panel. I am hoping this stamp will help identify each part after powder coating. This next shot shows the chassis with all the panels off:
    20190929_113253.jpg

    Here are my boys doing their Flintstones impressions:
    20190929_134817.jpg

    Next up I finally moved on to drilling the panels and starting to drill the frame. Finally got to start using all those cleco's i got at the start of the project!
    20190929_181034.jpg

    The drilling continues but I have also made other progress. i have completed but not documented going the direction of a Pro M hanger and internal fuel pump. That combo is now installed and i will be working to make my fuel line connections next.

    That is all for now. I will be back with some fuel line routing questions later this evening :-)

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  6. #45
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    It has been a while, but good progress

    Hello forum, it has been many weeks since my last post, but i have been busy at it. Going into the holidays I had a goal to get the engine / trans installed over Christmas, while my dad and brother were here to help out......Well, I am happy to report that I made that milestone!

    Leading up to the Holidays I was very busy getting the footbox panels drilled and fitted, primed, painted and then insulated.
    Here the footbox is fitted up and the A/C bulkheads are in place:
    PS Footbox.jpg

    AC BH.jpg

    Once the panels were fitted and drilled, I primed and painted them a "Light Machine Tool" gray. I wrestled with the PC vs. paint decision but I am glad i went this route. I have already experienced the ease of touch up. Here are the footbox panels painted:
    Paint 2.jpg

    Once the paint was done, i applied sound and heat insulation layers. I went with a Second Skin and Dynamat combo.
    Sound1.jpg

    Before installing the engine / trans in, I had a few things to do to the TKO 600. I needed to install the midshift kit and the Tilton HRB. I removed the TKO from the engine and proceeded to install the midshift kit. I followed the Tremec instructions and it was fairly straight forward. It went smoothly until I got to the part where you remove the rear double shift socket. I somehow did not get it in neutral properly and ended up jamming the pin into the bottom of the case. After a few minutes wiggling I was able to confirm i was over the drain hole and finished driving the pin out. To confirm I was over the hole, i ran a thin wire down the center of the roll pin and made sure it would drop out. Here the 2 halves are going back together:
    backtogether.jpg

    Once back together I was able to run through all the gears nicely! Lastly I installed the HRB, this was easy but took my time to get it just right per the directions:
    trans-bearing.jpg

    The trans went back onto the engine with a little wiggling and muscle and all the bolts were torqued back to spec. Next it was time to get the lump in. This was a long day but ultimately successful. I think that one of my biggest mistakes was having the trans mount in place. It should have been removed and out of the way until much later. We focused on getting the PS mount lined up first and loosely held in place, then moved our attention to the DS mount. Here it is in place:
    In.jpg

    Next I moved my attention to routing the fuel and rear brake lines. This was by far the most frustrating task so far! getting the bends just right and fitting them was a real job. As has been discussed before here, with the Coupe, there is no other option here except to run through the trans tunnel. I also installed a Driveshaft loop. Here you can see the lines and the loop in place.
    trans-lines-loop.jpg

    loop2.jpg

    With all that done I was not real happy with the trans alignment that is shifted pretty far to the DS. You can get an idea of where it ended up by looking at the driveshaft angle in the above pic. I think that P100DHG's post from earlier today is the answer to my issue as well. My alignment looks just like his did before he flipped the trans mount. I think i know what I will be tackling / re-doing this weekend.

    In the coming days or weeks I will be wrapping up the fuel line connections to the hard lines and making a filler neck retainer, since the supplied does not really work with the Coupe frame.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #46
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gadsden View Post
    In the coming days or weeks I will be wrapping up the fuel line connections to the hard lines and making a filler neck retainer, since the supplied does not really work with the Coupe frame.
    Nice progress. Maybe you saw the retainer I made for mine in my build thread. Pretty easy out of 1/8-inch aluminum and some split fuel hose. Retains the filler plus gives some support to the seal.

    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  8. #47
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    Productive Weekend

    Well I spent this weekend (actually just Sat) addressing my sever driveshaft alignment / Trans issue. I found P100DHG's information invaluable and spot on.

    After removing the motor mounts and grinding a clearance on each, all 4 bolts into the block went in perfectly. With the transmission mounting plate upside down, it shifted the mounting location an inch to the right and everything lined up perfectly.

    I was really apprehensive about doing this work, as it was such an ordeal to get the engine in with the mounts not seated properly, but once fixed, everything dropped right in, super easily!

    As a result of this work, i do need to revisit the driveshaft loop and make a few tweaks to it. Then moving on to the filler neck retainer. Thanks for the picture of your solution, Edwardb, I have mocked up something very similar to your solution.

  9. #48
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    Rare Color Photo found

    Here is a pic that I think could be Brock, Remington and Shelby working on a Coupe......Or it could just be me, my father and brother posing in our team shirts that I gave everyone for Christmas!

    group.jpg

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  11. #49
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gadsden View Post
    Well I spent this weekend (actually just Sat) addressing my sever driveshaft alignment / Trans issue. I found P100DHG's information invaluable and spot on.

    After removing the motor mounts and grinding a clearance on each, all 4 bolts into the block went in perfectly. With the transmission mounting plate upside down, it shifted the mounting location an inch to the right and everything lined up perfectly.

    I was really apprehensive about doing this work, as it was such an ordeal to get the engine in with the mounts not seated properly, but once fixed, everything dropped right in, super easily!

    As a result of this work, i do need to revisit the driveshaft loop and make a few tweaks to it. Then moving on to the filler neck retainer. Thanks for the picture of your solution, Edwardb, I have mocked up something very similar to your solution.
    I'm glad this helped. I think Factory Five could do us all a favor and just say in the manual. "There maybe interference that will cause XYZ issue here are some steps to fix it." I too lamented removing the engine off those motor mounts once I got them in. But was so please at how smooth it went in once the issue was corrected. As I progress further in the build the manual really becomes less useful and the forums and tech support become ever more vital.

    I frequent Boulder, CO I do some volunteer work with the University's business school. We should try to meet up next time I'm in town, anyway love your updates, I am a follower of your build. I love that you're doing it with your kids and family, it's a great project, my 3 year old is becoming a pro with wrenches and it's been a great time bonding with my father in law.

    Keep up the good work.

  12. #50
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    We definitely have to get together when you are in town. I will pm you my contact info.

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