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Thread: Greek Guys' Garage Roadster Build #9509 (more driveline assembly)

  1. #41

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    G3 (Greek Guys' Garage) Roadster Build #9509 (suspension finally finished)

    Well, it's been a busy (mostly not in a good way) few weeks, as I've been dealing with a kidney stone and a few other issues but I've finally had some time to get back on the build and have now wrapped up the suspension and brake installation. I threw on a couple of wheels to verify fit and to see what it looks like with wheels on. I'm pretty happy with how it's coming together so far. I'm planning to install the steering components next, and then I'll have a steerable roller and I'll be able to get it off the frame cart.

    I've ordered a few sheetmetal items from FFMetal ("Fat tire" F panels, .090 firewall) and those should be here soon, so I'll be tackling drilling all the sheetmetal next, and then brake/fuel lines.







    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  2. #42

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    One quick question - the front hubs have dust caps covering the spindle nuts but I didn't see any similar caps for the rear hubs/nuts. Are there supposed to be dust caps on the rear hubs?
    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  3. #43
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnK View Post
    One quick question - the front hubs have dust caps covering the spindle nuts but I didn't see any similar caps for the rear hubs/nuts. Are there supposed to be dust caps on the rear hubs?
    Nope.

    Your build is looking great BTW. Nice and clean and I really like the silver powder coat.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  4. #44

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    Thank you so much! I really like the look of the 20th anniversary roadsters like yours, so I was going for a similar look.
    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  5. #45

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    G3 (Greek Guys' Garage) Roadster Build #9509 (FFMetal "fat tire" F panels)

    I've been traveling the last week or so and when I returned yesterday I found that my package from FFMetal had arrived, so I spent some time today installing the "fat tire" F panels. I had already drilled the stock F panels and wasn't thrilled about how much turn radius I'd lose to tire interference with those. I was hoping that these new F panels would allow full lock-to-lock clearance without having to use steering limiters on the PS rack. Short story - yes, they do! FWIW - I'm running 245/40R18 on the front. The new F panels actually provide additional clearance in two ways. First, they have a series of bends that provide extra clearance for the inside edge of the tire. Second, they are a couple of inches longer than the stock F panels, thereby moving the elephant ears back and providing extra clearance for the outside edge of the tire. By my crude estimation I was losing a 1/4 turn in each direction due to interference, so was losing a 1/2 turn on a 3 turn rack with the stock F panels. Now I have full lock-to-lock turning with at least an inch (and more like 2 inches in most areas) of clearance between tire and sheet metal. Things will probably get a little tighter once the car is on the ground and the elephant ears are fitted properly but all in all, I'm very happy with the extra clearance these F panels provide.





    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  6. #46

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    While I'm talking about F-panels and elephant ears, let me ask a few questions about attaching the two together. I'm planning to use Nutserts to connect them. Which side should the screw head be on? I'm planning to use Alex's wheel well liners so I believe that the wheel well side won't be visible, so should the screw heads be on the inside (facing the headers? This way, the view from inside the engine compartment is clean? Second, I'm guessing the "safest" way to proceed is to drill the F panel and install the nutserts but not drill the elephant ears until I have the body on and am doing final fitment. Is that right?

    Thanks,
    John
    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  7. #47

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    I was doing some work on the DS foot box sheet metal last night, and one of the pieces I drilled was the foot box top access panel cover. I actually spent a good deal of time on that little piece, cleaning up the edges with a file, getting the bend angle right, and then getting it positioned and drilled/cleco'd in preparation for installing nutserts to secure it. It wasn't until later that evening, in re-reading through some other build threads, that I made the sad discovery that the body covers several of the mounting holes I'd drilled. I debated all sorts of clever ways to rig up dummy screws in a few holes, but in the end a quick call to FFR and $19 later, I have a new access panel cover in the mail. At least this screw-up was pretty cheap. Hopefully, all my mistakes will be this cheap and easy to fix. At this rate, I'll have a nice little "wall of shame" with all the parts I've managed to screw up in the course of the build.
    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  8. #48

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    G3 (Greek Guys' Garage) Roadster Build #9509 (clutch pedal frame interference)

    I've been working on the Wilwood pedal box today, and I've run into a bit of a surprise that I'd love some input on. The clutch pedal appears to be hitting the 3/4" tube and not able to extend fully to the back of the footbox. I'd read about this issue in many older build threads but was under the impression that this issue had been resolved on the newer frames, so I'm a bit surprised to run into this issue. I don't see how I can adjust anything (or have installed anything incorrectly to have caused this), so I'm a bit confused at the moment. The clutch pedal, when fully depressed to the point that it's hitting the 3/4" frame member, is still ~9/16" away from the footbox back. Is that "close enough" or do I need to do something here to resolve this issue?

    Thanks,
    John







    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  9. #49
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Surprised to see. But the previous interference problem was way before that. Insulation and carpet will take up some of that space. And depending on your clutch setup you may need a stop before getting all the way to the back anyway. One of the common solutions was to take a little bite out of the side of the clutch arm where it interferes. It's plenty strong enough. Engineers (which I am not...) have posted detailed data that confirms. You could wait until you see if you really need to trim it. But then it would be a lot harder to get in and out or reach. Or you could put a block of wood on the frame location and a couple bumps with a big hammer would clear it. That's just thinwall tubing there. I cringe when I type that, because not my style. But I do know that was one of the recommended solutions before.
    Last edited by edwardb; 05-18-2019 at 08:09 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  10. #50

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    Thank you. Yes, I was quite surprised to see it too. I'd read about your mods in your build thread but had subsequently read that this issue had gone away, so I was questioning whether it was something I did wrong. I'm more inclined to mod the clutch pedal than to try to massage the tubing. I don't think it would take much material removal from the pedal to clear it, and I guess now would be as good a time as any to do it since the whole car and shop are covered in metal shavings and bits from all the sheet metal drilling.
    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  11. #51
    Boydster's Avatar
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    Mine is a 2017, and I had to clearance it. I took some off the pedal. It required less than the depth of the flange that was touching, and never approached the web of the clutch leg. I smoothed it all out so there were no sharp edges, painted it up and never looked back.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018, back from Whitby's paint Aug 17, 2019.

  12. #52
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    My frame is an early 2018, and I had a very similar clearance issue. It would just hit with a fraction of travel left.
    Take a look here - I made up a small stop-block. Now that the car is together and running, this fraction of travel isn't noticed/needed for full clutch disengagement, and gives peace of mind that you're pressing against a purpose-built stop, not the frame or footbox tin.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  13. #53

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    Thank you both. Boyd, in the end this is exactly what I decided to do also. I took some material off the side of the pedal and it now goes all the way to the back wall. I still need to paint it, but I'm glad to have dealt with it now. John, I like you pedal stop design a lot. I may implement it once I've got the hydraulic clutch set up and bled, and I know where I want to position it.

    Thanks,
    John



    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  14. #54
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    I did what Fixit did. Plenty of travel to actuate my hydraulic clutch before it hits the chassis

    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  15. #55

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    Greek Guys' Garage Roadster Build #9509 (driveline assembly and more sheetmetal)

    A bit of work going on on several fronts lately. I'm continuing to work on drilling all the sheetmetal. So far both footboxes and everything forward of the firewall are done, as is the passenger floor. I've also fabbed up a patch panel to cover up the e-brake hole since I'll be installing an E-Stopp instead of an e-brake handle.



    It's not much to look at as far as sheetmetal fabrication goes, but it's my first attempt at making a panel so I'm proud of it nonetheless.

    I also received the replacement DS footbox access cover that I ordered after realizing that I drilled a bunch of holes in areas where I won't be able to access screws once the body is on. Question - here's the old cover. I've numbered the holes I drilled 1 - 13. Which of these should I not drill in the new piece? From photos I've seen, I think I should not drill holes 4 - 9. Is that right?



    On a separate front, I've been working on some driveline assembly. I had all sorts of fun with dial indicating the bellhousing. I won't go into it here since It's covered ad nauseam in a separate dedicated thread. You can read about it here.

    Thankfully, that's behind me now and I did a bit more work re-installing the clutch and pressure plate, getting the clutch arm angle set, and finally bolting on the bellhousing for the (hopefully) last time. I wanted to double-check that this clutch arm angle looks OK?



    I have a few leftover parts from Quicktime. I think I know what most of them are, but there are a couple I don't recognize and want to make sure I didn't accidentally leave something out that should have been installed.



    From the bottom up - one of the two adapter rings will go between the bellhousing and transmission. I'll see which one is the right fit for the TKO600. The assortment of parts in the middle are for other types of clutch release setups, so are truly extra. The two bushings along the top, though, are puzzling me. Can someone tell me what those are for?

    Thanks,
    John
    Last edited by JohnK; 06-06-2019 at 09:09 PM.
    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  16. #56

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    Greek Guys' Garage Roadster Build #9509 (more driveline assembly)

    I didn't have a lot of time to devote to the build today, but I did manage to get the transmission married up with the engine. I'm pretty happy about this milestone even though I won't be ready to drop it in for a little while. I still have a lot of little engine/trans prep details to address but so far I've installed the big items - Moroso oil pan, alternator, KRC power steering pump, removal of oil cooler.

    I'm wondering if it's OK to leave the transmission hanging off the engine like shown or should it be supported while stored like this?

    Also, any input on my question above about drilling the DS footbox access cover would be much appreciated.

    Thanks,
    John

    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  17. #57
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    John,
    For the footbox cover, this is what mine looked like when I received the kit. So not drilling holes 4-9 looks about right to me...

    MK4 Roadster #9138
    Blueprint 427 with Sniper EFI, TKO600, IRS, complete kit
    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...8-Build-Thread

  18. #58

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    Thank you! I had photographed all the sheetmetal before I pulled it off, but I didn't take any pictures of the sheetmetal before removing the body, so that's very helpful.
    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  19. #59

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    Quick question regarding the installation of Forte's hydraulic clutch. All the photos I've seen of the adapter that goes on the clutch fork show the bolt installed somewhere on the outer pair of holes, and the bracket hanging out past the edge of the clutch fork. There's actually another hole further in, and if I flip the bracket around and install it through that hole the end of the bracket isn't hanging out past the end of the fork. Is there any reason not to install it this way? (I am planning to cut that little bolt shorter once I know where exactly I'm planning to mount the bracket.

    Thanks,
    John





    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  20. #60
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    Thank you for posting all of the pics. You have helped me to be able to move forward. We have almost identical kits. MKIV with 5.0 Coyote but added the Boss intake, TKO 600, Moser 8.8 with 3.55s i believe, and the Halibrandt 18x9s in front and 18x11s in back........

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