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Thread: Transmission mounts and driveshaft installation

  1. #1
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    Transmission mounts and driveshaft installation

    So I dropped my motor in and it almost just fell into place-- very easy and way less stressful than I had imagined.
    I moved on the transmission mounts and driveshaft install and have run into problems. First, I'm running a Ford Racing 302 and tremec T5. My transmission using the transmission mounts included with my kit seems to sit the trani little high based on pictures I've seen, even without the .5" spacers the manual references. Also, there is absolutely no way of getting my drive shaft in without removing the mount and lowering the transmission so it's sitting right on the crossmember, does this sound correct? Even when the trans is sitting directly on the crossmember, I can't get the drive shaft to slide into position. I believe I have enough angle to slide it in, it just won't go in. I see there's a keyed slot on the driveshaft but can't find any evidence of one in the transmission. I cleaned out the grease so I could see it better and still can't see it. Is there a trick to lining up the keyed slots between the driveshaft and transmission?

    Thanks in advance for all of your help!
    Picked up kit 9/6/22. Complete Roadster Kit, IRS, 18" wheels, Forte 302, T5. First build. No auto mechanical experience and beyond excited to learn. Loaded with "Empty Nester" time and energy. Link to my build videos: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgX...uCWGcelzGecm1Q

  2. #2
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    Not sure if this is the answer you want to hear but I was dealing with this same issue last week. My setup is a bit different (TKX instead of a T5) but I, too, wasn't able to get my driveshaft installed due to clearance issues with the IRS.

    In the end, I ended up separating the yoke from the rest of the drive shaft and installing the two parts separately (installing the yoke into the transmission first then getting the driveshaft in place second). Once the two separate ends were installed, I re-pressed the u-joint in situ using just a standard c-clamp and a socket for a spacer. The task seemed awfully daunting when I started out but ended up not being that bad so long as you have an extra set of hands to help keep everything in place. I'm still in the process of getting everything aligned but the driveshaft is installed and in place.

    Hope that can help you to at least get started.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

  3. #3
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    There is NO keyed slot, one spline is removed so the it doesn't 'air lock' when installing it. Did you make sure the shipping 'donut' was removed from inside the transmission? It's often required to raise the back of the transmission to insert the driveshaft
    Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint

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  5. #4

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    Remove the mount then pry the trans left and install the driveshaft on the left side of the irs housing.
    Just did this yesterday.
    Mike

  6. #5
    Senior Member John Ibele's Avatar
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    Same setup, SBF and T5. Set the spacers aside, you won’t know how many you need until you have the driveshaft in. Do as Mike said, or this alternative. First, verify your engine mounts aren’t tightened down all the way, so you can move the tranny tail up and down. Put a bar over the (padded) 4” cross frame. You’ll use the frame as the support for this pry bar, and pull down on the end from the rear, levering the tranny up. I used a pickle fork, which I ducktaped in place so I could one-hand it to lift the tail of the tranny. I needed to raise it quite a bit to get the required angle for the driveshaft to drop in.

    Once you know there’s nothing in the way (Rich’s note…), keep at it. I thought there was no way it was going in, spent 30 minutes muscling it and breaking a sweat … then clunk, it was done.
    MK4 #7838: IRS 3.55 TrueTrac T5z Dart 347
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  7. #6
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    With the engine mounts loose and the transmission mount removed, I stood over the passenger side of the car and pried the transmission over to the left side and up. While prying with one hand I slid the driveshaft into the transmission with the other hand. I dropped a truckload of F-bombs and probably burned a couple thousand calories do it. I was seconds away from breaking out the engine hoist to pull the motor back out of the mounts to give me the extra couple of inches I needed.

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    Hey thanks for all the great advice. I did not try moving the trans up or to the right or left to get the shaft inserted. Tonight, I'll go back at it. Looks like up and to the left is my best bet. It's also nice to know that others have struggled with this part.
    One last question: my drive shaft did not come with the [4] bolts the manual references. I believe they are 3/8" but not sure of the length. I will source them locally, so any info on these rather important bolts would be welcomed.

    Thanks!
    Picked up kit 9/6/22. Complete Roadster Kit, IRS, 18" wheels, Forte 302, T5. First build. No auto mechanical experience and beyond excited to learn. Loaded with "Empty Nester" time and energy. Link to my build videos: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgX...uCWGcelzGecm1Q

  9. #8
    Senior Member egchewy79's Avatar
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    Interesting. I have a SBF/T5 and I didn't need to do anything special. fit the driveshaft into the rear of the trans and swung the rest up to mate w/ the rear diff.

  10. #9
    Namrups's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AA-ron View Post
    Hey thanks for all the great advice. I did not try moving the trans up or to the right or left to get the shaft inserted. Tonight, I'll go back at it. Looks like up and to the left is my best bet. It's also nice to know that others have struggled with this part.
    One last question: my drive shaft did not come with the [4] bolts the manual references. I believe they are 3/8" but not sure of the length. I will source them locally, so any info on these rather important bolts would be welcomed.

    Thanks!
    Those bolts might be metric. Can't verify but my inventory sheet lists 4 - M10 x 20mm socket head bolts. A M10 bolt measures .393" in diameter. A 3/8" bolt measures .375" in diameter. If you try to thread a 3/8" bolt into the hole and there is any play or it doesn't thread smoothly it is probably the metric M10. 20mm is a hair over 3/4". I do remember that my bolts were defiantly socket head.
    Scott Pregont
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  11. #10
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    It is definitely tight w/ the IRS vs 3 link. The shaft has to go into the trans first. I had to a jack and a long pry bar to get the trans moved far enough to get the shaft started. I was wondering if I was going to need to move the diff but eventually I hit the magic spot and in it went. I would be carefull about the bolts. I don't think you want regular bolts. It has been a long time but I think they are a special bolt w/ a longer than normal unthreaded portion so that it acts like a dowel to locate the flanges.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  12. #11

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    The driveshaft bolts were in the same bag as the bolts to install the adapter on the pinion.
    Mike

  13. #12
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    Thanks everyone. Yep, I just found the bolts right where Mike told me they would be. They were not as pictured in the manual, which is what threw me off.
    Tonight, if you hear loud swearing coming from southern Maine... not to worry, it will just be me trying to get my drive shaft in place.
    Picked up kit 9/6/22. Complete Roadster Kit, IRS, 18" wheels, Forte 302, T5. First build. No auto mechanical experience and beyond excited to learn. Loaded with "Empty Nester" time and energy. Link to my build videos: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCgX...uCWGcelzGecm1Q

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrewCityCobra View Post
    Not sure if this is the answer you want to hear but I was dealing with this same issue last week. My setup is a bit different (TKX instead of a T5) but I, too, wasn't able to get my driveshaft installed due to clearance issues with the IRS.

    In the end, I ended up separating the yoke from the rest of the drive shaft and installing the two parts separately (installing the yoke into the transmission first then getting the driveshaft in place second). Once the two separate ends were installed, I re-pressed the u-joint in situ using just a standard c-clamp and a socket for a spacer. The task seemed awfully daunting when I started out but ended up not being that bad so long as you have an extra set of hands to help keep everything in place. I'm still in the process of getting everything aligned but the driveshaft is installed and in place.

    Hope that can help you to at least get started.
    Hah, well now I wish I would have read all this before doing it the hard way. Good to know.
    BUILD THREAD: The Brew City Cobra

    Current Build: MK4 Complete Kit, Delivered December 2021; First Start November 9, 2022; Go-Cart November 23, 2022; Carbureted 427W, TKX, IRS

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