Forte's

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Where to get Rebuild kit for Brake Master Cylinder

  1. #1
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like

    Where to get Rebuild kit for Brake Master Cylinder

    My brake master cylinder has leaked onto my brake booster. taking apart the master cylinder that I received from Whitby shows two simple gaskets that need to be changed to prevent the leaking. But for the life of me, I cannot find a rebuild kit. Only rebuilt MC's. I would rather stay with the MC body and piston that I have due to the machining that has already been done on it.

    Anyone know a good place to get a rebuild kit for the MCs? It's a '95 Mercury Villager MC. Doing a search has shown me a kit on Amazon that looks like it, but doesn't "match my vehicle" when putting in the Villager info.

    Thanks for any help.

    BTW, I don't know how I'm going to get that brake booster off. Man, those nuts are hard to reach.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  2. #2
    Senior Member CFranks's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Berwyn, PA
    Posts
    212
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by DadofThree View Post



    BTW, I don't know how I'm going to get that brake booster off. Man, those nuts are hard to reach.
    I forget if I mentioned this on a previous thread, but try using a stubby wrench to get to the hard to reach bolts, especially doable if you have an access panel on top of the foot box. Good luck.

  3. #3
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    O'Fallon, MO
    Posts
    3,070
    Post Thanks / Like
    Why are you removing the booster if the MC needs working on?

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
    Why are you removing the booster if the MC needs working on?
    There is rust coming down from the booster, which I learned that it is a sign of brake fluid leaking from the MC into the booster. That fluid can also cause booster failure when eating away the rubber diaphram. When removing the MC I found fluid in the Brake Booster area where it mates up to the MC. I got into this because lately I've had trouble with my brakes being applied while driving. The car has also had trouble starting on different occasions. Very odd. Doing research found that the BB may be the culprit. I figured since I'm into it, I may as well do them both. Never had any trouble with the brakes or the car starting until a few weeks ago. Both symptoms happened around the same time.


    20190118_191105 by D. R., on Flickr

    20190118_190932 by D. R., on Flickr
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  5. #5
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    8,003
    Post Thanks / Like
    Brake booster affecting starting??? Never heard that one in over 40 years... The only possible scenario where I could make that happen is if the booster can and diaphram was totally ruptured creating a massive vacuum leak. If you opt to replace the booster (and I don't think I would at this time) the easiest access to the 4 bolts is with a long extension, like 18", with a u-joint socket.

    Jeff

  6. #6
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Never heard that one in over 40 years...
    I understand.

    Mr. Internet mentioned the BB as a possible cause matching each of my recent symptoms. Both occurred around the same time, and both symptoms point toward a possible cause being the BB. With the addition of viewing the brake fluid resting against the diaphragm and reading that a leaky MC may cause a BB diaphragm to fail, I'm exploring it.

    Not saying it's right, but nothing else is throwing the flags that I see. I only have Mr. Internet to help, and don't know what else to consider.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  7. #7
    BadAsp427's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    1,177
    Post Thanks / Like
    Try Contacting this..
    Brake and Equipment Warehouse
    455 Harrison Street NE
    Minneapolis, MN 55413
    Tel (Toll Free): +1-800-233-4053
    Tel: 612-378-3141
    FAX: 612-378-0805
    E-mail: [email protected]
    https://brakeandequipment.com/

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here / Registry Entry Click Here / BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb/Heater/Heated Seats/Cruise Control/Drop Trunk & Battery/Custom Cubby

  8. #8
    BadAsp427's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Greeneville, TN
    Posts
    1,177
    Post Thanks / Like
    Dave, It looks like Cardone provides a service where you can send your part to them, they rebuild it and send it back... You have to go through a local parts place that works with Cardone.... HERE is the form you have to use... Hope this helps.

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 (#8 of 20) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here / Registry Entry Click Here / BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb/Heater/Heated Seats/Cruise Control/Drop Trunk & Battery/Custom Cubby

  9. #9
    Moderator
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Milton,DE
    Posts
    656
    Post Thanks / Like
    I had two leaky master cylinders from Whitby. They modify the m/c bore in someway. I gave up on Whitby and replaced the m/c with a '93 Mustang Cobra m/c. No more issues.

    Olli

  10. #10
    Senior Member Joel Hauser's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Albany NY
    Posts
    259
    Post Thanks / Like
    have you tried this place?

    http://discbrakesrus.com/

    I purchased caliper rebuild kits from them when I was build my roadster.

  11. #11
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Blacksburg, Va
    Posts
    4,707
    Post Thanks / Like
    Buy a rebuilt unit, disassemble it and use the parts in your MC. Put your old parts back in the MC and return it for the core if there is one.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  12. #12
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    O'Fallon, MO
    Posts
    3,070
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    Buy a rebuilt unit, disassemble it and use the parts in your MC. Put your old parts back in the MC and return it for the core if there is one.
    Say what??? Why go through all that?? Just install the rebuilt, return the one leaking for the core. 100% more likely to have it leak after taking it apart then reassembling it.

  13. #13
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Blacksburg, Va
    Posts
    4,707
    Post Thanks / Like
    Rich that is what I was thinking too but then I went back to post #1 and read this.
    " I would rather stay with the MC body and piston that I have due to the machining that has already been done on it."
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  14. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    223
    Post Thanks / Like
    Not sure if brake booster attaches same as MC without boost, but if it does the bolts you are talking about go through the firewall and one side of pedal box. I have had to replace the MC twice on my MKI, once for a leak and the other time because of brake drag when car was hot. Both times had guy inside holding bolt head while undoing nuts from engine bay side. It’s tight but doable. Suggest using serrated flange nuts rather than self locking ones so they spin off/on easily.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

FFMetal

Visit our community sponsor