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Thread: Patrick's 427 Build

  1. #241
    Papa's Avatar
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    Great news, Pat!
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
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    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  2. #242
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MechanicalKnowledgeNone View Post
    Back on Track!

    Throughout the morning, Carl gave me some really good advice that I'll be listening to as I move forward with the rest of my build. I cannot begin to tell you how appreciative I am for all of his help. He's been a lifesaver. I am also very appreciative of all the help the forum has provided me up to this point. You guys are awesome.

    Hopefully, I can start buttoning up some things that I left undone and continue this adventure. I'm feeling much better about things.

    Thanks for everyone's help and encouragement.

    Patrick
    You got this... Thanks for the shout out, but it's all you. Keep it positive and create that WIN each day... You are just around the corner from everything coming together.

    The build is just a big patient, treat it as such

    It's time to change your name to Mechanical Knowledge Growing!!!

    Oh, and I meant to tell you; put the Air Cleaner back on your "carb" or at least some kind of a clean cover to prevent anything from getting down in your engine. Tape, Ziplock Bag, etc...

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here
    First Start 11-1-18
    ----First GoCart 11-7-18
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  3. #243
    Boydster's Avatar
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    And just like that, Patrick, you've just become a better mechanic. Good to see you having a good day after the recent frustrations. And good job, Carl, for helping out.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017. First start Oct 22, 2017.
    First go-cart Mar 26, 2018. Back from Whitby's paint Aug 17, 2019.
    Titled and VIN'd Oct 8, 2019

  4. #244
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Great to hear your clutch is working and the transmission freed up. That test I recommended obviously wasn't a good indicator for your clutch since the transmission was bound up. That happens sometime in shipping like that video described. But now should be good to go. Hang in there and keep moving forward a step at a time.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  5. #245
    Senior Member GTBradley's Avatar
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    That’s a big relief I’m sure about the transmission. I’d make sure you have it filled to the correct level too. You’ll know it when it pours out at the fill hole a little. Net win too, because you got those cable nuts switched around at the clutch throw out arm.
    MK IV Coyote Roadster
    "Life ought to be a struggle of desire toward adventures whose nobility will fertilize the soul."
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    Build thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...TKO600-and-IRS

  6. #246
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    And The Build Goes On

    I decided to take a few steps backwards today and start cleaning up some things that I may have done a bit sloppy the first time.

    First, I decided to clean up my wiring and make it look clean and organized. I'm comfortable now that I know everything works properly, so now it's time to make it look pretty as well.

    I did have a question for the forum. It has to do with the Voltage gauge. I have the Factory Five Vintage Gauges. These gauges came with a supplemental instruction booklet, which differs slightly from the wiring booklet that comes with the Ron Francis harness.

    In the picture below (which is from the supplemental instructions), it says to connect the Yellow wire that is coming off the Voltage Gauge to a +12V source. Which source do you all recommend I use for this connection? Secondly, I'm a bit confused by the instructions in the box (the red arrow is pointing to). I was hoping someone can clear this up for me.



    Thanks,

    Patrick
    Last edited by Pat427; 06-26-2019 at 10:10 PM.
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

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  8. #247
    Papa's Avatar
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    Pat,

    Just use the same brown gauge feed wire for the voltage gauge. It's properly fused and ready to go. All that note is telling you is that you should protect the gauge with a properly sized fuse.

    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 06-24-2019 at 06:24 PM.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  9. #248
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Pat,

    Just use the same brown gauge feed wire for the voltage gauge. It's properly fused and ready to go. All that note is telling you is that you should protect the gauge with a properly sized fuse.

    Dave

    Dave,

    I'm confused because my chassis wiring booklet says to connect the Red Power Distribution wire to the Brown Gauge Feed wire. (see pic)


    Therefore, am I supposed to connect both the Red Distribution Wire AND the Yellow Wire to the Brown Gauge Feed wire?

    FYI, I changed my name.
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  10. #249
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat427 View Post
    Therefore, am I supposed to connect both the Red Distribution Wire AND the Yellow Wire to the Brown Gauge Feed wire?
    You can use any +12 volt ignition controlled source for the voltage gauge. It just needs a reference voltage to use for the gauge display. I also normally use the brown gauge feed wire as well, so yes connecting both the Speedhut gauge power (red) and the voltage gauge (yellow) wire will work. You could also use most any other switched source, e.g. radio, etc.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread and Video
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  11. #250
    Papa's Avatar
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    Here's the source of why I chose to use the gauge feed wire:



    I knew I'd seen it someplace in the harness manual. Like Paul said, any +12volt keyed source will work.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  12. #251
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Wiring Continues

    I've spent the past couple days cleaning up the wiring. It started out a rats nest, but I've slowly been able to trim some wires, get rid of others and wrap a lot of the wires in bundles, which has made things look nicer. It's not perfect by any means, but it's an improvement from where I started.



    I was working on getting my oil pressure and water temperature wires connected when a couple questions popped up.

    I was puling some wires through the top of the manifold when this tube came out from under the Sniper. Can anyone tell me what this is and where it goes?



    Next, I was trying to figure out where my water temperature wires connect on the engine and I'm coming up empty handed.
    I wanna say it's this thing? I'm not sure, because the wires that are coming out of it attach to my Holley Sniper. From there, I don't see any of the wires in the Holley Sniper harness that are labeled for water temp that would connect to the RF water temp wires.
    Last edited by Pat427; 06-27-2019 at 04:00 PM.
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  13. #252
    Papa's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat427 View Post
    Wiring Continues

    I've spent the past couple days cleaning up the wiring. It started out a rats nest, but I've slowly been able to trim some wires, get rid of others and wrap a lot of the wires in bundles, which has made things look nicer. It's not perfect by any means, but it's an improvement from where I started.



    I was working on getting my oil pressure and water temperature wires connected when a couple questions popped up.

    I was puling some wires through the top of the manifold when this tube came out from under the Sniper. Can anyone tell me what this is and where it goes?



    Next, I was trying to figure out where my water temperature wires connect on the engine and I'm coming up empty handed.
    I wanna say it's this thing? I'm not sure, because the wires that are coming out of it attach to my Holley Sniper. From there, I don't see any of the wires in the Holley Sniper harness that are labeled for water temp that would connect to the RF water temp wires.
    Pat,

    That tubing looks like a piece of vacuum tubing. There should be a vacuum port on the base of the Sniper that you'll want to trace that tube back to one of manifold vacuum ports. That looks like the 3/8" tube, which would be for a brake booster if you have one. If not, you want to remove that tube and put a plug on the port. The smaller tube should go between the EFI and the vacuum advance on your distributor, which looks to be connected in your picture.

    For the water temp, the coolant temp sensor you are showing in the picture is likely for the EFI since it's already connected. Look in your gauge box for another sensor to supply the signal for the gauge. Don't try to splice them together as they work off of resistance and you'll get bad data to the EFI and your gauge if you try to put them on the same sensor.

    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 06-27-2019 at 07:18 PM.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  14. #253
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Radiator and Wiring


    Not too much to report over the past few days. My job has been getting in the way of working on the car recently, but I snuck a few hours in today.

    I'm basically finishing up the wiring. The only pending issue has to do with the placement of my water temperature sensor. I think I've figured it out though. Plus I'm waiting for a busbar to arrive from Amazon so I can get the wiring to the solenoid finished. Then I have to figure out the final placement of the rear wires and then I think that will be it for the wiring.

    I managed to also mock up my radiator today. I used the Breeze shroud and upper mounting kit. I think I'm going to use the lower mounting kit too, but haven't ordered that yet. I'm waiting to figure out everything that I need to order from Breeze to make my power steering hoses, that way I can just place one order. However, I can't do that yet because I'm waiting for a flow down-regulator from Jegs that will go on the back of my Saginaw style power steering pump which I need in order to be able to finalize what exactly I'll need from Breeze for the hoses.

    This is pic of my radiator mocked up. Just wanted to make sure the gaps on the sides of the radiator look appropriate? The red arrows are pointing to a gap that's a little over an inch.



    Thanks,

    Pat
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  15. #254
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    If I recall correctly the build manual suggests you offset the radiator to the driver's side about 5/8 - 3/4 inch.
    (I don't remember if this was Coyote specific).

    In my case the drain petcock was on the outside face of the PS side-tank of the radiator. Moving it over really helps with access to the petcock, and it made the large hose plumbing fit nicely.

    (Do the breeze mount, or fab up one of your own. Using the FFR nose-tin to support the radiator is really cheezy IMO.)
    Last edited by Fixit; 06-29-2019 at 06:28 PM.
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  16. #255
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Fixit,

    My drain petcock is on the outside of the DS side of the radiator. Yours is on the PS. Does this mean I have my radiator upside down? Or is this just how my particular radiator is oriented?

    Thanks,

    Pat
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  17. #256
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    If you are using the FFR provided radiator, you should have two petcocks Pat. One on the DS and should be on the outside upper part of the radiator. That is to let excess air out while you are filling it or draining it. There should be another on the lower passenger side of the radiator which is on the inside of the radiator, facing the engine. That is your drain petcock.

    If you are going the Breeze route, you'll need the bottom radiator support to determine the placement of the hinge and whether you decide to cut the 3/4" tubing.

    I centered my radiator and had no issues with the hoses, but I also have the Boig Cool Tubes, so mileage will vary and you'll want to check.
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Blueprint 427, TKO 600, IRS
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  18. #257
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cv2065 View Post
    If you are using the FFR provided radiator, you should have two petcocks Pat. One on the DS and should be on the outside upper part of the radiator. That is to let excess air out while you are filling it or draining it. There should be another on the lower passenger side of the radiator which is on the inside of the radiator, facing the engine. That is your drain petcock.

    If you are going the Breeze route, you'll need the bottom radiator support to determine the placement of the hinge and whether you decide to cut the 3/4" tubing.

    I centered my radiator and had no issues with the hoses, but I also have the Boig Cool Tubes, so mileage will vary and you'll want to check.
    Thanks cv2065,

    Unfortunately, I just mounted my radiator before reading your post. I already cut off those 3/4" tubes, so I really hope the Breeze lower support works out with the radiator in it's current location. Otherwise, I see some re-drilling in my future.
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  19. #258
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat427 View Post
    Thanks cv2065,

    Unfortunately, I just mounted my radiator before reading your post. I already cut off those 3/4" tubes, so I really hope the Breeze lower support works out with the radiator in it's current location. Otherwise, I see some re-drilling in my future.
    You'll be fine. That will just drop the radiator a little more versus sitting it directly on the 3/4 bar. I had to do the same thing.
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Blueprint 427, TKO 600, IRS
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  20. #259
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Radiator Connections

    Ok, so I'm working on connecting my radiator tubes today and I've managed to rack up a few (4) questions that I wanted to run past the forum.

    My kit came with 4 black connectors. Inside each of these connectors are 2 pieces of rubber tube. One is thin and one is thicker. See pic.


    I started with the upper engine connection.

    1) I followed the manual and put the thin piece of rubber hose (the piece on the right in the pic above) onto the engine. I then placed the connector over that thin rubber hose. It was tight, but it went together. However, I noticed that I cannot seem to get the inner rubber hose to sit flush with the metal rim on the engine. Hard to explain, so check out the picture.


    Hopefully you can see that the thin inner spacer is not flush with the metal hose connector on the engine. Is this going to be a problem?


    2) Next question has to do with the other thicker piece of rubber that was originally on the inside of the connector. This thicker piece (the center piece in the first picture) won't allow the metal radiator tubing to fit over it.

    Am I supposed to use these thicker pieces? I'm leaning towards no because the metal hose seem to fit nice and tight into the connectors without the need for these.

    3) Next, the lower radiator connection site on the engine is bigger than the upper radiator connection site. In fact, it's too big to allow the thin piece of rubber to even fit over it. The black tube connector will barely fit over the metal, so I assuming I don't use the thin rubber piece here, instead it looks as though I just connect the back connector directly on the mounting site.

    4) Last, my radiator cap doesn't look like the one in the manual. The manual shows there to be a black connector on both sides of the radiator cap. I do not have those two extra black connectors. I assuming I will just insert the metal radiator tubing directly into those black tubes of the radiator cap.


    I know this is a lot, but I was hoping ya'll could clear this up for me.

    Thanks,

    Pat
    Last edited by Pat427; 06-30-2019 at 02:56 PM.
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  21. #260
    Papa's Avatar
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    Patrick,

    Here is another place to let us help you spend your money. Do yourself a favor and get a set of the Boig Cool Tubes and toss those hose multi-piece fittings, filler neck, and a dozen possible coolant leaks.





    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  22. #261
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Dave,

    I was afraid you were going to say that.
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  23. #262
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Patrick,

    Here is another place to let us help you spend your money. Do yourself a favor and get a set of the Boig Cool Tubes and toss those hose multi-piece fittings, filler neck, and a dozen possible coolant leaks.





    Dave
    +1...Very easy to setup
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
    Blueprint 427, TKO 600, IRS
    Build Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...V-Build-Thread

  24. #263
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Spend the extra money if you want, but it is not needed.

    IMG_6020v1.jpg

    Lower Radiator Hose and Oil Filter Relocation.jpg

    Top Radiator Hose.jpg

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here
    First Start 11-1-18
    ----First GoCart 11-7-18
    BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb / Heater / Heated Seats / Cruise Control / Drop Trunk & Battery

    Gel Coat Driver 1/12/19 - 1000 Miles 3-23-19 / 2200 Miles 4-30-19 / 7500 Miles 8/16/19 / 9000 Miles 9/15/19.

  25. #264
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Power Steering Pump

    So I've started to tackle the issues I'm having with my power steering pump. My engine came with a Saginaw style pump. I have learned from the members of this forum that my Saginaw style pump is too powerful for the steering rack and therefore I will need to put a flow limiter on the pump in order to make it compatible with the steering rack.

    I ordered the flow limiter from Jegs and it showed up today. This is what the flow limiter looks like.



    I went to remove the existing part from the back of the pump, but was unable to access the piece given its location. Therefore, I had to completely remove the pump in order to switch out this part. When I removed the existing part, it looks like this. (pic below)



    To me, these two parts looked the exact same. I measured the piece in all dimensions, counted threads, everything, and they appear to be the exact same. I'm not sure what is so special about this part I got from Jegs, but I installed into the pump and reassembled things.

    Then I called Mark from Breeze and discussed what I would need to complete my power steering hoses. He was great and walked me through what I would need to make this happen. Hopefully the components I ordered from Breeze will come together and allow me to wrap up this part of the build.

    Now, just to vent a little: I was very disappointed in the power steering hoses that came with my kit from Factory Five. They don't seem to fit, are not long enough and overall do not come across as very high quality at all.

    I called Factory Five because the hoses were not long enough to reach the pump and the exact response I received was that I needed to, "take the hoses to a hydraulic shop and have them put longer rubber tubes on". Very disappointed with that response, which ultimately steered my to purchase hose components from Breeze.

    Thanks,

    Pat
    Last edited by Pat427; 07-02-2019 at 07:59 PM.
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  26. #265
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Progress

    I made some progress today.

    I got my Breeze lower radiator support installed. Fairly straight forward process. Getting the 51 degrees was a challenge as a solo builder, but I managed to get it done.

    Also, I managed to complete my power steering lines. I ended up buying the needed components from Breeze. They want together easily and I think are going to work. Very pleased with the stuff from Breeze.




    Also, I got a Lokar throttle cable. I wasn't very confident in what came with the kit, so I upgraded to the Lokar. I didn't get it fully installed yet, because I had a couple of questions:

    Is this little set screw really the only thing linking the cable to the L-shaped end assembly? This seems as though it would pull out during a spirited acceleration. Thoughts?


    In addition, the L-shaped end assembly had to go on the outside (toward the drivers side) in order to fit. Otherwise, if I put it on the inner side of the throttle assembly, the L-shaped assembly will hit a bracket on the throttle body when I pull the cable (mimicking acceleration). That L-shaped assembly wants to be on the inner side of the throttle body, because that way the cable will align perfectly with the alignment holes (seen on the bottom of the pic below), but I can't figure out how to avoid the interference with the end assembly hitting the arms of the throttle body.


    As you can see, with the L-shaped assembly on the outside of the throttle body, there is a curve to the cable that I don't like. Any ideas?
    Last edited by Pat427; 07-11-2019 at 03:54 PM.
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  27. #266
    BadAsp427's Avatar
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    Pat,
    On your throttle cable, did you order and get the correct cable bracket that you need for that cable? It will bring the cable out away from the base of your carburetor/EFI system so that the cable will pull straight in and out of the sleeve. You DO NOT want to leave it like that. See this: CLICK HERE
    And yes, when properly installed, that single set screw will hold everything in place. You will/should have a throttle stop on your gas peddle that will actually stop your peddle before you are actually pulling full force with your foot on that cable. Although it would hold it, you don't want to test it with your foot force.

    Also, in the one photo you have of your power steering line, (the steel braided one) it looks like it is rubbing against your brake line/bracket. If so, you will want to get some separation there so that you do not end up chaffing a hole through one of them and having either a brake failure or big power steering fluid mess.

    From what I can see your Radiator install looks good. Nice work.
    Carl

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
    Build Thread Click Here
    First Start 11-1-18
    ----First GoCart 11-7-18
    BluePrint Engines 347ci / TKO600
    Carb / Heater / Heated Seats / Cruise Control / Drop Trunk & Battery

    Gel Coat Driver 1/12/19 - 1000 Miles 3-23-19 / 2200 Miles 4-30-19 / 7500 Miles 8/16/19 / 9000 Miles 9/15/19.

  28. #267
    Papa's Avatar
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    Pat,

    Time for me to help you spend a little more money. As Carl mentioned, you want the throttle linkage to be as straight on as possible. I used this bracket with my Holley Sniper and it is perfect!

    Fast 304147 EZ-EFI Cable Mount Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BBOLWTM..._N56jDbCGH9XW2





    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 07-11-2019 at 04:54 PM.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  29. #268
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Moving Along

    I made a little bit of progress today.

    I think I fixed my throttle cable issue. I was tempted to buy the throttle body that Papa recommended in his post above, but I decided to experiment with something before spending any more money.

    I took the L-shaped bracket that came with the kit (which is a little shorter) and attached the Lokar cable to it and tightened the set screw like usual. With the kit supplied L-shaped assembly, I was able to attach it to the inside of the throttle body, which allowed the cable to be perfectly straight. I think this will work. If it won't work, please let me know.

    Next, I was able to get my overflow tank installed. It took a phone call to Factory Five, but ultimately I was able to get things figured out.


    Last, I was wondering if anyone could explain he horn wiring to me. It's a little confusing in the manual.

    I have two horn wires. One is a green wire that says HORN and the other is a black wire that says HORN GROUND.

    However, in the manual there is a wire that is called, "small ground wire". I'm confused by this. I'm assuming the wire that is being referred to as, "small ground wire" is just the 2 inch piece that I'm supposed to cut off the end of the HORN GROUND wire. Is this correct?

    Then, there is also wires referred to as, "jumper wires" that are supposed to be connected to the horns. I'm not sure what these are.

    Anyway, I was hoping someone might be able to describe the horn wiring in a more understandable way.

    Thank you,

    Patrick
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  30. #269
    Papa's Avatar
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    Pat,

    See if this picture answers your question on the horn wiring:



    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  31. #270
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Dave,

    Yes!

    This picture is excellent. Thank you. This clears it up for me.

    Pat
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  32. #271
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Horn

    I got my horn wiring done.

    Thanks to BadAsp427 for showing me his horn wiring when he visited my build a few weeks ago and to Papa for sending me that picture, these two guys have been lifesavers.

    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  33. #272
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Steering Wheel Question?

    So I have a question that I need some help with. It has to do with how the steering wheel connects to the steering shaft.

    In this first picture is my steering wheel with the hub attached with 6 bolts.


    The next picture shows the end of my steering shaft showing a threaded hole.


    When I put the steering wheel on the shaft and then screw the bolt into the hole, the steering wheel just spins on the steering shaft, but the shaft doesn't turn!


    It doesn't seem like that bolt is doing anything. I don't see where that bolt is doing anything to hold the wheel onto the shaft.

    I feel like I'm missing something here.

    Any help is appreciated.

    Pat
    Last edited by Pat427; 07-14-2019 at 01:15 PM.
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  34. #273
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    Pat,

    Be sure the shaft is aligned with the wheel. It's keyed and is a pretty tight fit. Once you are happy with the shaft to wheel alignment, the bolt will draw the wheel down tighter onto the shaft to the point that it will be very hard to get it off later. Be sure you really want it on right now! It doesn't look like your dash is in place yet, so maybe wait to get it fully tightened up.

    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  35. #274
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Papa View Post
    Pat,

    Be sure the shaft is aligned with the wheel. It's keyed and is a pretty tight fit. Once you are happy with the shaft to wheel alignment, the bolt will draw the wheel down tighter onto the shaft to the point that it will be very hard to get it off later. Be sure you really want it on right now! It doesn't look like your dash is in place yet, so maybe wait to get it fully tightened up.

    Dave
    Dave,

    Correct, I wasn't planning on attaching it just yet, I was just tinkering in the garage and came across this question. The issue I foresee is the head of that bolt is more narrow than the hole, therefore when the bolt gets tightened down, it doesn't seem to pull the steering wheel onto the shaft. Instead only the bolt screws down, but the steering wheel stays put.

    Does it appear that I have the correct bolt?
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  36. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pat427 View Post
    Dave,

    Correct, I wasn't planning on attaching it just yet, I was just tinkering in the garage and came across this question. The issue I foresee is the head of that bolt is more narrow than the hole, therefore when the bolt gets tightened down, it doesn't seem to pull the steering wheel onto the shaft. Instead only the bolt screws down, but the steering wheel stays put.

    Does it appear that I have the correct bolt?
    Pat,

    The hub should not rotate on the shaft with or without the center bolt in place. The hub should key on the shaft. There should also be a washer between the head of the bolt and the hub.

    Last edited by Papa; 07-14-2019 at 04:22 PM.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  37. #276
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    Pat, remember when I was there and told you that a 16mm wrench fits the steering rod... it is flat on two sides... the inside of your hub should be flat on two sides as well... But like it was said above, if you put it on and pull it down with the bolt and washer, it WILL be very difficult to pull off... Don't put it on yet.... that is the message being sent... LOL

    Mk4 20th Anniversary #8690 ( #8 of 20 ) Purchased 8/18/18----Build Started 8/19/18
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    First Start 11-1-18
    ----First GoCart 11-7-18
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    Gel Coat Driver 1/12/19 - 1000 Miles 3-23-19 / 2200 Miles 4-30-19 / 7500 Miles 8/16/19 / 9000 Miles 9/15/19.

  38. #277
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Pipes

    I installed my side pipes today. I went with the unpolished version because I'm planning on using aftermarket quiet pipes.



    I haven't been able to get the innermost bolt installed because it looks like I'll need a 90 degree drill in order to get the hole drilled. My current drill won't fit.

    Tomorrow, I'm planning on finishing up my dash (I still have to install my hazard switch) which is the last thing and then I can bolt it to the frame.

    After that, I think I'll be ready to take her for a go cart....
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  39. Likes PeteMeindl liked this post
  40. #278
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    Pat,

    Do you plan to swap the pipes before the body goes on? The O2 sensor is not going to work in that position with the body on unless you go through the body. You'll need to rotate the position so it angles down under the body. If you're just going to run it as-is for go carting, you'll be okay.

    Dave
    Last edited by Papa; 07-18-2019 at 07:33 AM.
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

  41. #279
    Senior Member Pat427's Avatar
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    Dave,

    I'm going to answer your question with a question.

    The instructions with Holley Sniper say the O2 sensor is supposed to be mounted at least 15 degrees above horizontal. So when you say to mount the sensor, "under the body", will that still be >15 degrees above horizontal?

    On the other hand, I'm just gonna be go-carting for now, no body.

    Thanks for continuing to check on my progress. It's much appreciated.

    Patrick
    MK4-IRS, 427w, TKO-600

  42. #280
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    Pat,

    I know the angle isn't what Holley calls out, but if you use the side pipe collector to mount the O2 sensor, you'll have to compromise. Lots of guys are running the O2 sensor in the collector without issues with the inverted angle.

    Dave
    There are 10 types of people in this world;
    those who understand binary and those who don't.

    My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754

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