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Thread: MKIV with Coyote, TKO600 and 3 Link Pinion angle

  1. #1
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    MKIV with Coyote, TKO600 and 3 Link Pinion angle

    Hello Guys,
    I'm running a Coyote, TKO600 and 3 Link rear end.

    Who has had to use a spacer on the transmission?
    If you did use one, what was your height of the spacer?
    Where did end up with your Pinion angle?
    Thanks
    Martin

  2. #2
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    No spacer on my build. Pinion angle as per FFR specs.
    MkIV #7854, Kit picked up September 2012, Coyote/BOSS 302 intake tuned at 488HP, TKO600, Center Force, Moser 8.8, driveshaft safety hoop, Stainless Header 4x1x4 headers, Gas-N-sidepipes, rad shroud, Wilwoods, NO PS/PB, heater/defroster, heated seats, wipers, Herb door panels, Dynamat Extreme sound/heat dampening, premium Rodtop top, Fast Freddie lexan wind screen, Nitto 555R, drop trunk battery, drop trunk storage,

  3. #3

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Please remember to check the angle of your pinion dangle and match it to your driveline angle because your U-Joints need to be in phase to avoid vibrations caused by elliptical moments of an out of phase system. Also, the pinion angle needs to be pointing downward between 1 & 2 degrees, which is needed for preload, unless you are running Heim or Spherecle style lower control arms.

    You Joint Phasing Video:
    https://youtu.be/Idk3BVDVHq4

    Heim/Spherecle Style Lower Control Arms:

    https://www.spohn.net/shop/Factory-F...ot-Joints.html

    Good Luck From The Dark-Dart Side!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 02-06-2019 at 06:57 AM.

  4. #4
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    It has been quite common to need a spacer under the trans. Up to 3/4 inch. Do a search here and the other forum for exhaustive info on this.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  5. #5
    Senior Member walt mckenna's Avatar
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    When I bolted my engine to the chassis, I had some wiggle room on location, so I mounted the engine as low in the mounts as I could get it. This created a slight (2-3 deg) up angle after I had shimmed the transmission to allow the u-joint to just clear the cross member. I set my pinion at an up angle to match the trans output angle and my driveline has operated smoothly ever since. My point here is that you will have to let your driveline installation angle influence pinion angle.
    Mark IV -- 04 Mach1 Donor -- 4.6 DOHC -- TKO 600 -- 3:55 Gears -- 3 Link - Hydroboost PS & PB -- 13" PBR's Front & 11.65's Rear -- Cuesta Wiring -- Thompson Signals -- FFR Radiator, heater, wipers, and catalytic converters -- Metco DS safety loop -- Forte 7/8" front bar -- VPM 3/4" rear bar -- Champ road race pan -- Corbeau A4 Seats -- Nitto NT-05's on 17 x 9's.

  6. #6
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    Something I rarely see mentioned with this topic is checking your driveshaft angles/binding all the way through the suspension travel.
    I have a different drivetrain but same concept regardless.
    I had my pinion angle set at the correct angle with no issues at ride height, no spacer under the transmission, but when I fully compressed the suspension there was binding in the driveshaft u joints and the pinion angle changed dramatically.
    I put a 1/4” spacer under the transmission mount and re set the pinion angle at ride height, then checked again at full compression. It was no longer binding and the pinion angle was the same or close to what it was at ride height.
    Checked at full spring extension and also all acceptable angles and no binding.

    Make sure you check the driveline through the full travel range, that will tell you if you need a spacer. It’s really easy if you have the frame on jack stands and remove the snap rings the spring collars rest on. This will allow you to fully compress the rear end without having to adjust the collars. Once they are up just jack the rear end up with your floor jack.

    Good luck!

  7. #7
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Second GoDadGo's comment on the Spohn lower control arms with Del-Sphere Pivot Joints. Had one of the first sets made for on the road testing. They are still on the car about 7,000 miles later & have functioned very well.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '13/TKO-600
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  8. #8
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    I used a 3/4" spacer for two reasons. First, with no spacer, the U-Joint rubbed the frame cross member while rotating. (I have a solid axle. Not sure what happens if you have IRS) Second, while installing the headers, I noticed the rear of the oil pan was below the frame rails.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges W/GPS Speedo
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  9. #9
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    Thank you Murd
    Great advise, will proceed with this and let you know
    M

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