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Thread: Forte Hydrualic Clutch Alignment Question

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    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Forte Hydrualic Clutch Alignment Question

    Hey everyone. Final thing I have install before engine install is Forte's hydraulic clutch. I must be installing this thing wrong, as it's way off of alignment from the fork. Can someone guide me to the landing strip? Looks like I've got the wrong bracket.

    Thanks!



    Last edited by cv2065; 02-09-2019 at 05:19 PM.
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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    I think you have to give Mike a call for a different bracket

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    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigurd View Post
    I think you have to give Mike a call for a different bracket
    I think you are right Sigurd. Sent him a note already.
    MKIV Roadster - #9380 - Complete Kit - Delivered 7/17/18
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    I bought Mike Fortes external slave unit for my SBC 350 and TKO 600. My original Bell was a GM aluminum "stock" unit but could NOT get it to dail in to the Tremac specs. ( cheap China stuff?? ) SO, at the advise and generosity of someone much smarter than me, I went with a Quicktime bell and it dialed in Perfectly. But, the Forte bracket does not fit now. The Bells are just different enough that I need another one. Even a custom made one that Mike Forte is going to create for me and swap out the units this coming week. My experience with Forte is the same as with F5.... Excellent.

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Looks like he gave you the bracket for a QuickTime bell instead of the standard aluminum bell. Yours looks like this one. You can see the opening for the clutch fork is clocked around further than yours.

    Last edited by edwardb; 02-09-2019 at 06:47 PM.
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    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Thanks John. I'll have to make sure that Mike sends me that snazzy cover too. This version of the bracket didn't come with one.
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    This is the setup Mike Forte installed for me.

    Clutch.jpg

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    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sigurd View Post
    This is the setup Mike Forte installed for me.

    Clutch.jpg
    Interesting how that bolts up. Doesn't look like it uses the main trans to bell bolts at all? My slave looks a lot different as well.
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    Mike has made several changes over the past 10 years that I've been following this. Some of us had to make modifications to get the older kits to work properly.

    George

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    Senior Member mlewis's Avatar
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    here's my Forte set-up (circa early '18)

    IMG_1101.jpg
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Looks like Forte has redesigned his setup to use a bent steel mounting bracket instead of the aluminum billet parts. Interesting.
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    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Hey guys. So Mike Forte sent me out a replacement record speed. Thanks Mike! The bracket is on and looks great. Nice piece of aluminum billet.



    But I have a couple of questions getting this slave cylinder configured.

    1. On the rod end that fits into the clutch fork bracket, there is what looks like a point on the head of the rod end that keeps it from sitting completely at a 90 degree angle and fully rotating in the clutch fork bracket. Is that meant to be there or should I grind it down a little so that the rod end moves freely in the clutch fork bracket? Here’s a couple of pics:







    2. Also, any recommendations on how much to properly measure when cutting the slave cylinder pushrod to the right length?
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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    1. Looks like machining wasn't quite finished on that rod end. Cut it off and smooth it out.

    2. Some variations in setup so can't recommend a dimension. Just sneak up on it. Temporarily get the boot out of the way. Put the adjustment threads and jam nut in the middle of the adjustment range. Bolt the bracket in place on the clutch arm. Measure the depth of where the pushrod and end piece go into the slave. Measure the length needed from the edge of the slave to the clutch arm. Cut and try. Start long and shorten a little at a time until you get a little bit of slack with the TOB against the clutch fingers.
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    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    1. Looks like machining wasn't quite finished on that rod end. Cut it off and smooth it out.

    2. Some variations in setup so can't recommend a dimension. Just sneak up on it. Temporarily get the boot out of the way. Put the adjustment threads and jam nut in the middle of the adjustment range. Bolt the bracket in place on the clutch arm. Measure the depth of where the pushrod and end piece go into the slave. Measure the length needed from the edge of the slave to the clutch arm. Cut and try. Start long and shorten a little at a time until you get a little bit of slack with the TOB against the clutch fingers.
    Perfect. Thanks again Paul.
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    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    My Heim/ball-end was the same way - a little nub on the end from where it was parted off during mfg. Just dress it off with a file.

    Paul's description of initial adjustment is spot on. At rest you want just a tidbit of freeplay in the linkage, with plenty of adjustment range available.
    (I set mine up the same way, and on my (few) test runs up & down the driveway I honestly don't think I'll have to touch it... the clutch feels just right!)
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Don't fret if you cut the push rod too short; you can easily make another from a 5/16"-24 bolt (check that's the right size for your rod end first). Just cut the head off an appropriate length bolt & away you go.


    John

    P.S. Yep; I cut mine too short.
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    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Ok...so I think I have this nailed. I've got about 3/16" horizontal clutch fork play once all buttoned up. I do have a question around the vertical movement of the clutch fork. It moves probably about 3/16" up and down. Is this 'normal'? Here are a couple of pics and a video of the movement. Thanks again for everyone's input!





    Last edited by cv2065; 02-16-2019 at 12:39 PM.
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    Yes that’s normal. The fork pivots on a fixed ball end bolt on one end and the throw out bearing in the middle. The fork to throw out bearing has clearance to so that it can free float a bit to guarantee alignment and figment. Looks good to go.
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  20. #20
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GFX2043mtu View Post
    Yes that’s normal. The fork pivots on a fixed ball end bolt on one end and the throw out bearing in the middle. The fork to throw out bearing has clearance to so that it can free float a bit to guarantee alignment and figment. Looks good to go.
    Thanks!!
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    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I've got about 3/16" horizontal clutch fork play once all buttoned up.
    If I'm reading this correctly you have 3/16" from when the linkage is bottomed in the cylinder piston... move the assembly forward... and it contacts the pressure plate fingers?

    You could probably halve that to less than an 1/8"... you don't want the pushrod to fall out of the "cup" in the piston too far.
    The critical thing is that the throw-out bearing is not in contact with the fingers at rest. A 1/16"-ish clearance is plenty. Any "extra" clearance will need to be made up for with clutch pedal travel.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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  22. #22
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    If I'm reading this correctly you have 3/16" from when the linkage is bottomed in the cylinder piston... move the assembly forward... and it contacts the pressure plate fingers?

    You could probably halve that to less than an 1/8"... you don't want the pushrod to fall out of the "cup" in the piston too far.
    The critical thing is that the throw-out bearing is not in contact with the fingers at rest. A 1/16"-ish clearance is plenty. Any "extra" clearance will need to be made up for with clutch pedal travel.
    You’re reading correctly John. Forte recommends 3/16”. After tightening everything up, I’m actually about 1/8”, so should be good to go I would imagine.
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