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Thread: Safety Mod’s

  1. #1
    Senior Member CFranks's Avatar
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    Safety Mod’s

    I think I’m like several people who recently parted with $150 thanks to the driveshaft loop thread. Given I never heard of a driveshaft loop before yesterday, I wonder if there are any other key safety mods us new builders should be considering?

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    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Separate, independent reservoirs for the front & rear brakes.

    I don't know if things have changed, but when I bought my complete kit in 2015, F5 provided only a single reservoir and the instructions showed how to "T" the hoses to feed each brake cylinder. This means a failure in one brake system leads to complete loss of brakes. With independent reservoirs, at least you'll have half a system to get you stopped.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

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    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Either a neutral safety switch or a clutch safety switch...or both. Prevents you from starting the car in gear and having it take off.
    MkIV #7854, Kit picked up September 2012, Coyote/BOSS 302 intake tuned at 488HP, TKO600, Center Force, Moser 8.8, driveshaft safety hoop, Stainless Header 4x1x4 headers, Gas-N-sidepipes, rad shroud, Wilwoods, NO PS/PB, heater/defroster, heated seats, wipers, Herb door panels, Dynamat Extreme sound/heat dampening, premium Rodtop top, Fast Freddie lexan wind screen, Nitto 555R, drop trunk battery, drop trunk storage,

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  6. #4

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Consider adding an adjustable rev-limiter because these cars can spin the heck out of the tires if you have a peppy motor under the hood. You can set things low as you learn how to drive your car. Also, over revving can easily land you in a ditch or possibly throw the rods out the bottom if things get out of hand with your right foot.
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 02-12-2019 at 08:30 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CFranks View Post
    I think I’m like several people who recently parted with $150 thanks to the driveshaft loop thread. Given I never heard of a driveshaft loop before yesterday, I wonder if there are any other key safety mods us new builders should be considering?
    You mention the driveshaft loop thread - so I guess you didn't miss the recommendation of at least considering a steel (not cast) flywheel + bellhousing (again, steel, not cast) - too close to knees and major arteries to risk a catastrophic failure.

    Consider high back seats (and study to mount them as recommended by the manufacturer / NHRA rulebook / etc) - if anything strikes the back of the car hard (your fault / my fault / nobody's fault), you're simply not going to survive with low back seats - this includes traveling backwards during a spin / loss of control (it can happen).

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    Senior Member RickP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    Separate, independent reservoirs for the front & rear brakes.

    I don't know if things have changed, but when I bought my complete kit in 2015, F5 provided only a single reservoir and the instructions showed how to "T" the hoses to feed each brake cylinder. This means a failure in one brake system leads to complete loss of brakes. With independent reservoirs, at least you'll have half a system to get you stopped.


    John
    This suggestion just happens to be one of several winter projects I am working on. Should have done it when I was building the chassis but what I know now is definitely not what I knew then.

    RickP

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  12. #7
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    Yes to needing head rest protection if using low back seats, and harness to hold you and seat in place. Roll bars(i have cage) made right and need to not have head hit them!

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    Kill switch.

    Either killing the fuel pump or the ignition, or both. And then put the switch where either the passenger or the driver can reach it while strapped in.

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    Senior Member MisterAdam's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by phileas_fogg View Post
    Separate, independent reservoirs for the front & rear brakes.

    I don't know if things have changed, but when I bought my complete kit in 2015, F5 provided only a single reservoir and the instructions showed how to "T" the hoses to feed each brake cylinder. This means a failure in one brake system leads to complete loss of brakes. With independent reservoirs, at least you'll have half a system to get you stopped.


    John
    Not true. The hose to the single reservoir has enough volume so that each master is independent.

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  17. #10
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    It's not a mod but something too many builders skip---the harness 5th point "sub strap". It is sometimes thought that it's purpose is to catch you right in the "you know where" in the event of an impact but that isn't the case in our upright seats. The real purpose is to keep the lap belt across your hips rather than allowing it to rise above the waist. What happens without it is that when you fasten the lap belt then snug the shoulder straps the lap belt comes up, then the shoulders are loose so you pull them and it moves up farther. With the fifth point adjusted correctly all the belts stay where they belong. About those shoulder belts---you're using them aren't you? If not START NOW! EVERY TIME YOU LEAVE THE DRIVEWAY! As my good friend and veteran FFR builder & owner John Phillips said to me about 15 years ago "I looked around the cockpit and didn't see anything I wanted to hit myself in the face with". Smart man! Unfortunately over the years there have been several instances where drivers or passengers have had injuries with even minor fender bender type accidents because they were using only the lap belts. Happened to another good Cobra buddy and his lovely wife a couple of years ago. Thankfully their injuries were minor.

    Be safe!

    Jeff

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  19. #11

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    We all forgot this, the most important safety feature:

    Engage Your Brain Every Time You Get Behind The Wheel!

    These cars do something to us all so remember to: Engage Your Brain Before You Do Anything!

    PS: It is tougher than you think!

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  21. #12
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    These cars are home built and neither the design nor the finished product is required to pass destructive testing.

    Most of the safety items on my build were required by NHRA but even if I were building a car for the street only I would have added them. As it was, I exceeded the minimum NHRA requirements as being older now and more experienced I have come to realize how quickly you can get into trouble and your chance of survival is dependent on your preparation. Good judgment comes from bad experiences and I’ve had my share of those.

    My short list of minimum safety items:

    Minimum of three-point restraint system – five-point is significantly better. Simple lap belts are not enough. As a SAR pilot I flew with a former Air Force doctor /mechanical engineer that in the 60’s headed up an Air Force program to develop better restraint systems in aircraft. The learnings from this program migrated to the automotive industry and that is why three-point belts were mandated by the Fed. Discussing his findings made a true believer of me that a lap belt is not nearly enough. And if you drive a roadster you should at least consider what happens to your arms if you should roll it and become unconscious. I’ve seen this enough times to scare me. This is why NHRA requires arm restraints in dragsters, altereds, and other open bodied cars.

    Effective roll over protection. “EFFECTIVE” being the operative word here. I’ve been on my top twice and I can’t emphasize too much the violence of a rollover and a single roll bar is not enough margin for me. And with a roll bar or cage you must also have effective padding to prevent your head from being crushed – otherwise, you really haven’t mitigate the risk. The best-designed roll over protection is a system that your head cannot contact but that is sometimes not practical in our little cars.

    Drive shaft safety loop. I’ve experienced two drive shaft failures and have seen first hand the destruction this results in – it’s more like an explosion. NHRA requires a safety loop on the front of my car within 6” of the u-joint. I have two loops, one at each end and a containment shield covering the entire length of the driveshaft. Been there; done that – won’t risk a catastrophic injury over a few extra pounds of weight.

    If running a clutch I use a scattershield type bellhousing even on the street. Take a look at where you and your passengers’ legs are in relation to the clutch.

    Side impact protection. My roll cage is NHRA certified but in addition to the minimum door bar requirement I added extra tubing to strengthen the side impact protection and minimize the chance of a bumper penetrating my door bars.

    Dual independent brake system – either dual M/Cs or a single OEM style M/C with dual pistons so that if one system should fail the other provides a way to stop the car. And the M/Cs should be installed so that you have full travel – don’t think that because travel is limited when the system is properly bled that you don’t need the other 75% of travel. Hot boiling fluid, or a slight leak can cause you to need all of the travel and then some as you panic pump that short stroke you created by incorrectly installing the pedal or M/C. In the early 60’s cars and trucks typically had just one system and any failure would result in no brakes. I had this happen once in a VW Bug and I blew through a busy Tee intersection between cross traffic (two 18-wheelers) pulling as hard as I could on the parking brake handle. I finally stopped just before the ditch on the other side.

    This is the short list – and what I consider must have for my builds. Your mileage may differ.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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  23. #13
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterAdam View Post
    Not true. The hose to the single reservoir has enough volume so that each master is independent.
    And what happens if the hose between the reservoir & the cylinders fails? Or, the T-fitting or the fitting at the bottom of the reservoir fails?

    Low probability events to be sure, but there's a reason the NTSB required independent front/rear brake systems BEFORE they required seat belts.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

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  25. #14
    Senior Member CFranks's Avatar
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    Thanks all, great list! Keep ‘em coming. So far from this list I’m adding a kill switch, clutch safety switch, 5th harness point and head rest protection to my build. Also have the loop already on it’s way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CFranks View Post

    and head rest protection to my build.
    I was going to let the head rest comments go, but since that track seems to be picking up steam, here goes:


    The back of my Kirkey drag seat is 5.25" in front of the front edge of the Mk4 roll bar.


    *Most* of the roll bar installed head rests are too far back and too small to reliably catch your head (not to mention, probably too soft, until the impact suddenly turns that into "too hard" / ran out of padding).

    And then there's the area between your shoulder blades and the base of your skull, which gets no support whatsoever from a headrest (your average headrest).


    In the end, it's all about (knowledgeably) deciding what risks you're willing to accept.



    If anyone has come up with a (neat) presentable way to incorporate something like a Kirkey 99212 support in a Mk4, I'd love to see some pictures.

    Incorporated in a way that doesn't present more hazards than benefits.

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  28. #16
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike223 View Post

    *Most* of the roll bar installed head rests are too far back and too small to reliably catch your head (not to mention, probably too soft, until the impact suddenly turns that into "too hard" / ran out of padding).
    Here is an option to modify the lowback seats. They are headrests designed for a 65 / 66 Mustang. I copied John4337 and did them on mine. The nice part is that they don't look out of place. No one even notices them.

    Look down around post #24.

    https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...at-thread.html

    I agree with the previous posts. 5 point harness and USE IT, every single time. scatter shield, neutral safety or clutch switch, driveshaft loop, two roll bars.

    Here are a couple of my own pet peeves.
    1. Put serious tires on your car. A Cobra with anything over 300hp and tires over 300 treadwear is an accident waiting to happen. Tires are the the single most important thing in your suspension system.
    2. Learn to handle your car. Do at least 3 autocross events. If you think you have driven your car to the limit on the street, you are mistaken.

  29. #17
    Administrator 65 Cobra Dude's Avatar
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    Fire suppression system. I put one in all my cars!

    Thx,

    Henry

  30. #18
    JohnK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 65 Cobra Dude View Post
    Fire suppression system. I put one in all my cars!

    Thx,

    Henry
    Do you mind providing some details on what you did? Thanks!
    MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.

  31. #19
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post
    ...If you think you have driven your car to the limit on the street, you are mistaken.
    And if you drive one of these cars anywhere close to the limit on the street you are a fool. No, wait, that was wrong...make that an irresponsible fool.

    Jeff

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  33. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post

    Here is an option to modify the lowback seats. They are headrests designed for a 65 / 66 Mustang. I copied John4337 and did them on mine. The nice part is that they don't look out of place. No one even notices them.

    Look down around post #24.

    https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...at-thread.html
    That looks great! (and looks like it should function as well)

    Quote Originally Posted by Avalanche325 View Post

    1. Put serious tires on your car. A Cobra with anything over 300hp and tires over 300 treadwear is an accident waiting to happen. Tires are the the single most important thing in your suspension system.
    2. Learn to handle your car. Do at least 3 autocross events. If you think you have driven your car to the limit on the street, you are mistaken.
    Agree completely.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post

    No, wait, that was wrong...make that an irresponsible fool.
    Agree completely.

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    Having recently started a build, I noticed some areas on the car that I felt needed improvement. The first thing I did was weld a vertical support between each set of seat belt mounts located in the trunk. It simply goes from the 2x2 tube and is welded to the bottom of the tube across the trunk. I used 3/4" x 1/8" tubing. Much stronger in my opinion, as the horizontal tube will no longer flex by pushing on it. The next area I beefed up was the gap between the seat pans and the forward, lower 2x2" tube. A piece of plate steel on each side, now has both floors protected. When the car is done, I will add 1/4" diamond plate to the lower floor. This will add another layer of protection for our feet as well as allow me to not worry about getting a floor mat stuck under the gas pedal like we saw in London a few years ago.

    I agree with every comment made in this thread. Common sense. Please be safe.

    Scott

  35. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterAdam View Post
    Not true. The hose to the single reservoir has enough volume so that each master is independent.
    I never tought about that. Let’s check:
    . 12in of 5/16 hose volume is 0.9 ci.
    . Master stroke 1.12in, 0.75in dia, volume is 0.5 ci.

    Hose volume is enough, provided you have enough length between the master and the T. If the T is at the master, as the instructions show, it will not be enough.

  36. #23
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Shouldn't determining how much reserve capacity of brake fluid be based on how many times you think you need to pump the pedal to the floor given a small leak? You can consider that when the pedal is fully retracted the fluid in the M/C will allow for one full stroke. After that it all depends on your reservoir capacity (that capacity includes all the plumbing to the inlet of the M/C). So by the above calculation you have slightly more than two full pump strokes. Is that enough?

    I only throw this question out there to stimulate the thought process. This is really a personal decision of how much margin you feel comfortable with and I think it's good to think about these things during the build process. Having dealt with leaking brake systems before I'm personally not comfortable with just a couple strokes of margin but that's my personal bias based on my experience and risk tolerance.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

  37. #24
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Jim's comments RE: the single reservoir---

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Schenck View Post
    The extra volume of the reservoir serves 2 functions, first to ensure that as the pads wear down and pistons extend, filling the calipers with fluid, there is enough fluid in the system to replace what is no longer in the master cylinder. The second is to provide backup fluid to the remaining side in case of a failure on one end of the system. Having one reservoir with enough volume accomplishes this just as well as two reservoirs so long as there is a small amount of fluid left to prevent air from entering the remaining functioning side of the system during an emergency stop. Most OEM master cylinders have one tank with a low divider built in to accomplish this. In a system with a single remote reservoir and a Tee in the lines the volume is provided by the section of line after the T. On the Willwood reservoirs the smaller ones measure approx 2.5"x2"x1.75 or roughly 8.75 cubic inches of volume each. The larger reservoir is approx 2.25x2.25x4.75 or roughly 24 cubic inches, more than the volume of two of the smaller reservoirs and plenty for the entire system. Having 2 separate reservoirs doesn't hurt anything but having just one large one is as safe as it is on an OEM master cyl.
    Jeff

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    See and be seen:
    Paint your car a bright color (not black or gray)
    Wear a Carhart dayglo colored beanie on the highway
    Get shorty helmets for driver and passenger - esp. if no headrest (no I have not done that yet)
    Install an actual automotive rear view mirror on the windshield
    Billet side view mirrors are great too!
    LED headlights
    Or you can do what most people do - don't drive the Roadster much (not recommended )
    www.breezeautomotive.com 2005 FFR Mk3 Roadster, 302/340hp, MassFlo EFI, Breeze Pulleys, T5, Aluminum Flywheel, 3-link rear with Torsen Diff and 3.27:1 gears, Power Steering, Breeze Front Sway Bar, SN-95 Spindles with outboard SAI Mod, Breeze Battery Mount, QA1 Externally Adjustable Shocks, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Vintage Race seats, GM Arctic White, Sky Blue Scoop, Hidden Hinges, Billet Aluminum Side-view Mirrors, 2,183lbs wet. 1967 Mustang Fastback, Dark Moss Green, black interior, '67 14" styled steel wheels, 2000 Explorer 302 w 5.0 Cam, Quickfuel 450 CFM, 289 Hi-Po Dual exhaust, C4, lowering springs w Shelby drop.

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  40. #26
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    Always turn on headlights.

  41. #27
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    On the harness with fifth strap i had both seats fixed with hole in bottom seat for proper fitting. Read the instructions and do them!

  42. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Reynolds View Post

    Get shorty helmets for driver and passenger - esp. if no headrest (no I have not done that yet)
    It's the inertia of your head that's certainly going to kill you - it will not matter (at all) if you hit the rollbar with it.

    Check the pictures from the news reports on this tragedy - especially the drone footage (no roll bars needed - I choose not to link the images).

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ighlight=crash


    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Reynolds View Post

    Or you can do what most people do - don't drive the Roadster much (not recommended )
    All too true.

  43. #29
    Administrator 65 Cobra Dude's Avatar
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    I use the Safecraft Fire Suppression System with 3 nozzles, 1 in the engine compartment, 1 on the fuel tank and 1 in the cockpit. I use Safecraft model LT5JAB. Thankfully I have never had to use it in any of my cars but always good to know its there if needed

    Thx,

    Henry

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    Senior Member Itchief's Avatar
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    Don’t forget the exhaust heat shield to save your legs from a serious burn

    Rick
    #8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater

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  47. #31
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Not a mechanical fix. Never ever say "Watch This"
    Kevin
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    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  48. #32
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    So glad I found this thread prior to my kit showing up. Great recommendations here to consider. Thank you contributors!

  49. #33
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    Here are some of the safety features I installed

    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    Separate Wilwood Brake reservoirs installed.




    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    Clutch safety switch installed. Its capable of 16 amps and I used it between the starter solenoid mini starter and the key on the FFR key switch. The clutch must be depressed all the way to the floor for the car to start. Love the simplicity and ease of install.




    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    Thank you to BOB LLOYD and the MRS for this sweet treat.

    Snake Bite blanket made from welding mat material for the wife.

    20180305_214658 by Brandon Fertig, on Flickr
    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator View Post
    High mount center brake light LED, its chrome and subdued into the roll over bar (Stealth)
    Quote Originally Posted by TexasAviator
    Fuel Tank wiring and inertia cutoff switch
    texas aviator

  50. #34
    Out Drivin' Gumball's Avatar
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    Dang - compared to all you guys, 7074 is an accident waiting to happen. Totally old school with not much in the way of safety measures.

    And, honestly, I wouldn't have it any other way.
    Later,
    Chris

    "There are no more monsters to fear, and so, we have to build our own."
    Mk3.1 #7074

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  52. #35
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    Not a modification but good tires are critical for safety on all cars and with the high power to wieght of these cars it is even more important. How old are your tires??? many of these cars are not driven much so the tires don't wear out.
    Check the age of the tires and get new ones if they are more than about 7-8 years old. A tire shop is going to like me, 3 cars including my mkll will need new tires this Spring.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

  53. #36
    Senior Member CFranks's Avatar
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    Mar 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sdonnel View Post
    .... The next area I beefed up was the gap between the seat pans and the forward, lower 2x2" tube. A piece of plate steel on each side, now has both floors protected. When the car is done, I will add 1/4" diamond plate to the lower floor. This will add another layer of protection for our feet as well as allow me to not worry about getting a floor mat stuck under the gas pedal like we saw in London a few years ago....

    Scott
    Hi Sdonnel, do you have a build thread or any more details about this? It's always been on the back of my mind to better protect the cockpit floor.

  54. #37
    Senior Member walt mckenna's Avatar
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    May 2015
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    I track my car, so in addition to items already mentioned, I use: braided flexible brake lines, high temp brake fluid, battery kill switch, and HANS device. Until I got a little more proficient at high speed braking, I wished that I had installed ABS.
    Mark IV -- 04 Mach1 Donor -- 4.6 DOHC -- TKO 600 -- 3:55 Gears -- 3 Link - Hydroboost PS & PB -- 13" PBR's Front & 11.65's Rear -- Cuesta Wiring -- Thompson Signals -- FFR Radiator, heater, wipers, and catalytic converters -- Metco DS safety loop -- Forte 7/8" front bar -- VPM 3/4" rear bar -- Champ road race pan -- Corbeau A4 Seats -- Nitto NT-05's on 17 x 9's.

  55. #38
    Senior Member Scott Zackowski's Avatar
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    Oak Ridge, North Carolina
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    My list of safety features (some have already been mentioned):

    1) You most likely have never driven anything like this. Respect it at all times or it will kill you. Best advice another FFR roadster owner once gave me.

    2) Sticky tires. Critical to maintaining rear traction as much as possible.
    These cars have a lot of horsepower relative to their lightweight and easily lose rear traction. I prefer AVON tires – street legal radial race tires. Expensive but gives me piece of mind.

    3) Power brakes – modern drivers are not use to regular brakes and may not respond or react appropriately in a pinch. For me Power Steering was not critical, the cars are light.

    4) Battery and Alternator kill switch. Remember once the car is running, it runs off the alternator. Most fires will occur in the engine bay or behind the dash. If you can’t get to the ignition switch or it is melted, you are screwed. Well you are screwed either way but just more so. For that reason, I put the “true kill switch” between the seats.

    5) HalGuard fire extinguishers – One between the seats and one in the trunk.

    6) Inertia kill switch – comes with kit.

    7) Clutch safety switch with wired in over-ride switch on the dash, just in case the main plunger switch fails.

    8) LED Headlights – Used Streetworks. Standard headlights just not bright enough.

    9) Drive shaft safety loop – used METCO’s.

    10) 5th point on the Safety Harness both sides. For reasons mentioned, to get proper position of the lap belts across the pelvis and not over the abdomen, which would result in internal abdominal injuries.

    11) Roll Bar Cross Bar – to attach the shoulder harness at the proper angle. The FFR standard attachment puts the harness too low, which could result in pushing down on your shoulders on impact and crushing the shoulder girdle.
    Last edited by Scott Zackowski; 02-15-2019 at 07:34 PM.

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  57. #39
    Senior Member Big Blocker's Avatar
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    Unfortunately, I'm in Gumball's court too - not much in the way of safety stuff. I DO run a driveshaft loop, I DO have the 5th belt installed (and use it on the highway), The battery cut off switch disconnects my alternator stator line so no more charging / powering car when deactivated and last but not least, inertia switch connected in-line to EFI pump. To counter all that; NO clutch switch, NO neutral safety switch, old style "Jeep" dual master with separate reservoirs (built as one casting with MC), NO windshield wipers, nothing to keep me from burning my leg (or any passenger) when getting in or out, NO power steering, NO power brakes, single roll bar.

    Just a pure race car, legal for street driving.

    Best safety equipment I have is my brain . . . fully engaged whenever I get in the car with the intention of starting her up and going out on public roads.

    Doc
    FFR3712K (MKII) in Lost Wages Nevada.
    5.0 w/tubular GT-40 EFI, E303 cam, Custom 4 into 4 headers, T5, 3-Link 3.73 rear. Full F5 tubular suspension. Drop Butt mod, Dash forward mod, custom foot box air vents, custom turn signal system. 13" PBR brakes, Fiero E-Brake mod, Flaming River 18:1 rack w/ F5 bump steer kit on Breeze bushings. 17" Chrome Cobra "R's" w/ 275 fronts and 315 rears. MKIV seats. FORD Royal Blue w/ Arctic White stripes.

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  59. #40
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Blocker View Post


    Best safety equipment I have is my brain . . . fully engaged whenever I get in the car with the intention of starting her up and going out on public roads.

    Doc
    This should be number one on everybody's checklist
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

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