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Thread: Build Thread for my Hawaii 35 Hot Rod

  1. #41
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    Thanks for posting all the modifications on your pickup.
    You’ve offered up some great ideas and possibly given me new directions to take with my own build.

  2. #42
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    Motor is in for the last time and I did it solo......it was a bear....by the way for anyone going to install a coyote in this truck don't leave in the hoist points to set the motor....as I should have realized you can not remove them as they are too close to the firewall. So I had to improvise. So....YAAAAA the motor will not come out again. ( at least for a very long time ). Hooked back up the headders and began the exhaust wrap which is looking pretty sweet. 20190530_172748[1].jpg 20190530_172742[1].jpg 20190530_172731[1].jpg 20190530_173731[1].jpg 20190530_173744[1].jpg

  3. #43
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    Took a break from the build to do some camping.......back at it and I am slowly checking off the low hanging fruit on this build.

    First up was brackets, brackets and more brackets. First up was the Fuel pressure regulator and I quickly ran out of room due to my modifications on the drivers side so I had to stack this over the computer. 20190611_175232[1].jpg
    Then next up was the heater valve, modify the bottom to be securely20190611_175242[1].jpg mounted
    Next up was the power steering control box which required it's own custom bracket. 20190611_175311[1].jpg
    Next was the remote oil filter.....this one took some time because I wanted access to this and space was getting cramped. 20190611_181539[1].jpg 20190611_181553[1].jpg
    Next was the E-brake.....i purchased an electronic ebrake, mounted that under the passenger seat rail and fabbed up a custom bracket to hold the e-brake cables ( of which I had to order longer ones as the supplied ones for my application were too short. 20190612_125955[1].jpg 20190612_130004[1].jpg 20190612_143840[1].jpg

    Next was the coolant overflow. I ended up making an aluminum bracket that attached to the block and the bracket that holds the alternator. 20190612_144827[1].jpg 20190612_144838[1].jpg

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  5. #44
    Senior Member KenWilkinson's Avatar
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    So, about e-stopp... I'm just now trying to fit this in. Do your cables come to the center of the cab? Wondering how you will route them to the side?
    FFR 35 p/u # 0014

  6. #45
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    Aloha Ken,
    Well I am a nubie to building a car and most of the times I do things backwards......you would have thought when I was going to install the E-stopp I would have attached the p-brake lines and see where they landed.....well I did not. I first went looking for a nice place to attach the E-stopp, did all that work to get it securely mounted and then realized that one of my p-brake lines was now short. So I called wilwood and they told me what kit to get to give me the length of lines I needed.......I haven't quite learned the measure twice cut once.....but this makes for an interesting build. I ordered on Amazon Wilwood 330-9371.

  7. #46
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    Well I finally got to getting the belly pan cut and mounted with riv-nuts.....I am still waiting for my torx head screws from Mcmaster Carr for it to me mounted. As you can see I had to take a sledge hammer to it to accomodate a few areas. My exhaust cutouts hung down a bit so I cut out 2 rectangles and then welded on some bowl shaped patches so it would have clearance. I also created an access cover to get to the oil drain plugg so I don't have to remove the entire belly pan to change the oil. All in all I think it turned out pretty slick.....now I will be able to rock crawl with the truck

    20190612_165726[1].jpg 20190613_165442[1].jpg 20190613_171955[1].jpg 20190614_085147[1].jpg

  8. #47
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    So since this is going to be my daily driver I decided to install an audio system in it so I have taken advantage of some of the dead space behind the seats....the middle cubbie is just that....a place to shove a jacket....the other 2 funky shaped boxes will have 2- 6.5" 1000 watt subwoffers, I then seam sealed, primed them, and then lizardskinned the inside and outside of the boxes.

    20190614_112151[1].jpg 20190615_112442[1].jpg 20190615_112447[1].jpg 20190615_143526[1].jpg

    I decided to upsize my battery to a larger one to accommodate the sound system I am installing and relocated it to the back of the truck. Here are a few photos of the fab work. I also took the chance to plasma cut #hawaii35ford in the bottom of the battery bracket....not bad for a first try. I also took some aerotape to insulate the battery box from the fuel tank to ensure there is not any rubbing between the two of them. I got stuck for a bit on how to hold the battery in place and saw a ratchet tie down laying around in the garage and decided to tig weld it to the sides of the battery box. I think it works quite nice to hold it down.

    20190615_123311[1].jpg 20190615_124705[1].jpg 20190615_143610[1].jpg 20190615_143839[1].jpg 20190615_143832[1].jpg 20190615_143942[1].jpg

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  10. #48
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    Wow, you are knocking your version of the ‘35 right out of the park!

    Thanks for sharing your many unique and great ideas along the way.
    Mahalo,
    Pat

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  12. #49
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    Since purchasing my classic instruments gauge ive wanted a very clean dashboard as to not take from the beauty of this gauge....it's 7.5".....its huge. gauge.jpg

    So I came up with the idea to mount all the controls and switches up high as to keep the dash looking clean. Here is what I came up with. I took some extra scrap of 1/8" alum left over from my belly pan and carefully cut out and filed to fit each switch, then I took it to a sheet metal shop with a brake large enough to bend it 90 deg. Mounted it with some riv nuts and counter sunk the screws. I am planning on having it powered coated either black or bronze....haven't decided. Once I place the cab in place I will trim the top to match the curve of the roof. Switches are as follows from left to right.
    Radio Volume / Radio ( vintage radio just looks old but as bluetooth ect ) / radio control, answer calls / E-stopp / push to start / drivers heated and cooled seat / window switches / pass heated and cooled seat / AC controls / Subwoofer bass control / Dome light switch / USB power outlet / Exhaust cutout make the truck really loud switch.
    20190621_082130[1].jpg 20190621_102245[1].jpg 20190621_132626[1].jpg 20190621_132810[1].jpg 20190621_141939[1].jpg 20190621_151226[1].jpg 20190621_151247[1].jpg

    Not sure yet how I will hide all the wires going down the A pillar but I will find a way. Also I am leaving the headlight switch to the left of the steering wheel and I am also going to hide the hydraulic switch under the dash to raise and lower the suspension. The current plan for the truck is to have a lot of fun with it for a few years then rent it out on Turo for $500 a day and make some money and justify another FFR build......maybe the coupe.

  13. #50

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    Just came across this thread. Your build is coming along. Wish i read this and your other thread earlier this week as im on the Big Island staying at the Waikoloa Beach Marriott...but leaving for Oahu this morning. Would have loved to see your build and maybe help out. Maybe when we come back ill rent it from you.
    Eddie

  14. #51
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    Aloha Eddie, would loved to have some input and help on the build, maybe next time. Aloha

  15. #52
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    cup holders 35 ford truck

    Well for a more those of you that are a bit more practical you may appreciate what I came up with for my cup holders. I purchased on amazon 2 cup holders hoping that they would fit a larger hydroflask.....but of course they didn't....so I decided to make my own. With some of the 18ga sheet steel that Home depot sells, I went to my local sheet metal shop and had them roll it up into a 4" circle. Tig welded it together as well as put a end cap on it and a flange. Here is how it turned out. I decided to use the ones I bought to hold what is powering this build. . I also installed one on the passenger side. Likely going to have them powder coated bronze.
    20190622_155321[1].jpg 20190622_155333[1].jpg 20190622_155344[1].jpg 20190622_162450[1].jpg 20190622_164609[1].jpg 20190622_164619[1].jpg 20190622_164628[1].jpg 20190622_164636[1].jpg

  16. #53
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    Seat Tilt....access to behind the seat.

    Well.....this modification when much smoother than expected. After seeing where the seat was in relation to the cab and seeing all that space behind the seats that would be inaccessible for storage I decided to solve this problem. I first tried to just mock up a hinge on the front part of the seat but I quickly realized that the seat would hit the shifter and it would not tilt forward. I then went looking for a few things.....the first I found was a modification to the tremec tko600 shifter made my white lightning which serves 2 purposes.....1) it moves the shifter forward and out of the way and 2) It claims to shift smoother....we will see. 20190625_140830[1].jpg

    The other thing I went searching for was a compound hinge that lifted while tilting forward......searched ebay and found (99-03 MERCEDES W208 CLK320 CLK430 CONVERTIBLE TRUNK LEFT & RIGHT HINGE SET OEM) hinge.jpg and they looked like they would work, and came with hydraulic cylinders. Well after a few test runs and finally turning it upside down I figured out how to make these work. I used some 2 x 2 angle metal to mount them to and also needed to weld on one more support on the frame to catch the hinge.

    20190625_130017[1].jpg 20190625_130011[1].jpg 20190625_130512[1].jpg 20190625_130519[1].jpg 20190625_140747[1].jpg 20190625_140757[1].jpg 20190625_140804[1].jpg 20190625_140821[1].jpg

    I still need to make up a latch to secure the seat in place so I don't tilt forward every time I brake.

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  18. #54
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    Man I love all your mods! Friggin crazy I keep watching to see what else you come up with!

  19. #55
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    electrical.....wiring.....and more electrical

    Aloha Guys.....it's been a while, went on vacation so Sandiego for 3 weeks and when I got back started on the never ending electrical for this truck. Here are a few photos.

    Just installed my digital rearview mirror, which has a front facing camera to record any accidents that happen in front of me. Also installed and mounted my new Uniden R7 Radar detector.

    20190727_160740[1].jpg 20190727_160640[1].jpg 20190727_160652[1].jpg 20190727_160727[1].jpg

    Also had a chance to install my JRI shocks as well as run all the hard lines, mount the hydro pump which required a special bracket

    20190712_183224[1].jpg 20190712_183318[1].jpg 20190726_205203[1].jpg 20190726_205635[1].jpg


    Also found some time to final mount the rear panel, and my speaker boxes. I ended up lining them with sound deadening to make them more stiff. I then make up some top plates for the speakers to mount to out of some scrap 1/8" alum. Here is what the ended up looking like.

    20190727_144447[1].jpg 20190727_151817[1].jpg

  20. #56
    Straversi's Avatar
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    The tilt seat is great. Well done. I wasn’t familiar with the JRI shocks. Those are going to be nice. Thanks for posting your work.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  21. #57
    Member ztoolman44's Avatar
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    Blown away dude. Some great ideas here.

  22. #58
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    Just great work! Not just the business side of things with those awesome shocks, battery and fuel pump mounts, and the all of the rest that's too long to mention. But, also the cool things like storage and cup holders! Niiiiice!

    Great job re-purposing the hinges for the seats; and I second your thoughts on the latch mechanism being important. It would make for some interesting driving otherwise!

    Thanks for posting all of the details. I really enjoy watching folks with the creativity and the skills to make these cars and trucks uniquely theirs! And you get to do it in Hawaii -- freaking awesome!!

    Regards,

    Steve

  23. #59
    FFR Maven Logan's Avatar
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    I have been looking for the JRi Hydraulic Ride Height System shocks for my Coupe-R! Where did you spec them out and order from??

    Build is looking great!!
    Logan

    FFR Fanatic Since 1995
    2017 Mustang GT PP #95
    Gen3 Type 65-R: Ordered 4/32/19, delivered 6/29/19

  24. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35 Ford Hoonatruck View Post
    Aloha Guys.....it's been a while, went on vacation so Sandiego for 3 weeks and when I got back started on the never ending electrical for this truck. Here are a few photos.

    Just installed my digital rearview mirror, which has a front facing camera to record any accidents that happen in front of me. Also installed and mounted my new Uniden R7 Radar detector.

    20190727_160740[1].jpg 20190727_160640[1].jpg 20190727_160652[1].jpg 20190727_160727[1].jpg

    Also had a chance to install my JRI shocks as well as run all the hard lines, mount the hydro pump which required a special bracket

    20190712_183224[1].jpg 20190712_183318[1].jpg 20190726_205203[1].jpg 20190726_205635[1].jpg


    Also found some time to final mount the rear panel, and my speaker boxes. I ended up lining them with sound deadening to make them more stiff. I then make up some top plates for the speakers to mount to out of some scrap 1/8" alum. Here is what the ended up looking like.

    20190727_144447[1].jpg 20190727_151817[1].jpg
    Friggin crazy! I love it!

  25. #61
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    Aloha Logan,

    I searched for the closest supplier to me which was in California. I used Rick Cortex Racing [email protected]. He helped me order the shocks and make sure they would fit. Then ended up being custom built just for my truck to make them fit. They cost me about 7k, so they were not cheap. I just got my wheels so in about 2 weeks when they are back from powdercoating, mounted and balanced I will be posting a video of the shock travel on my instagram @hawaii35ford

  26. #62
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    Seat Latch, insulation and carpet, and truck trunk

    I did some digging and found a cheap solution for my seat latch to keep my seat from ejecting me through the windshield. I found a Dodge, Chrysler 2007-2018 trunk lid latch for $27 on ebay. It has the bonus of having the yellow pull tab already attached.
    20190806_170132[1].jpg 20190806_170118[1].jpg 20190806_190826[1].jpg

    Then also installed the heat insulation, floor boards, dynomat, then carpet, then the RF AMP. I had a few Helpers.
    20190727_203202[1].jpg 20190730_185909[1].jpg 20190802_171356[1].jpg 20190802_171521[1].jpg

    Rear storage installed
    20190803_111334[1].jpg 20190803_115728[1].jpg 20190803_125347[1].jpg

  27. #63
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    First Start and my Wheels ARRAIVE !!!!!!

    If you want to see the First truck start as I don't know how to upload a video.....you can follow me on Instagram where I also post my build progress @hawaii35ford. First start went as expected......It didn't the first try.....I forgot to hook up the brake light to my alarm which needs a diode because of the LED lights. Wire nutted those for a quick solution and this truck sounds MEAN!!!!!

    Take a look at these raw wheels from Detroit Steel. I also dropped them off today to get powder-coated just like the front grill. Tires are here and waiting to be mounted. Hopefully they can turn these around in a few days....fingers crossed.
    20190806_121056[1].jpg

  28. #64
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    Congratulations on the first start. Saw it on Instagram. Smooth as can be. Like the big multi function gauge as well.
    That’s one heck of a scar, btw. You got lucky.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901

  29. #65
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    Looking good.

    Sperger72

  30. #66
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    Roger that, i could be blind in one eye, or hit my head on the concrete planter and opened my head like a melon. I am very blessed.

    Doug

  31. #67
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    Truck is Finally on the ground

    20190813_193004[1].jpg 20190810_151713[1].jpg

    Lots of little projects. I did not like how the dashboard looked with the Detail and liked when someone else sanded down the dash smooth.....I don't have the fiberglass skills so I just took some extra aluminum and formed up an insert that bolts onto the dash, it is currently getting powdercoated Bronze. To make this aluminum I had to first make a plywood template as you can see in the photos.
    20190816_155200[1].jpg 20190816_155230[1].jpg 20190816_172811[1].jpg 20190816_172818[1].jpg

    Then I started fitting the sides of the truck which lead me to the next project.......what is a truck without a Ladder Rack.....well a drop in removable ladder rack.....and a very small hitch.....yes very small hitch.....this serves as a anchor point for a Mountain Bike rack that I will weld up in the future. I am also using the square tubing up next to the cab as an insert point for the ladder rack next to the cab. The reason for this is because I go to Home depot all the time and I want a way to mount some 10' PVC or steel to the truck. As I said before, this will be my work truck
    20190819_133804[1].jpg 20190819_133812[1].jpg 20190819_133820[1].jpg

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  33. #68
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    First Drive and Bed side Modificaiton

    Finally took the truck for a turn......wow it is fast. VideoCapture_20190902-142511[1].jpg to see the video check out my instagram @hawaii35ford

    I also got the ladder rack and hitch back from powder coating....here is what it looks like installed. 20190826_190143[1].jpg 20190826_190153[1].jpg

    After looking at someones modification to the bed rails I decided to take it one step further, I saw someone install PVC on the bed rails to give it the authentic look, I wanted to have it a bit more sturdy so I found that the top pipe for chain link fencing from Home Depot was the perfect diameter. I cut out a notch with the plasma cutter and made up some end caps out of some scrap metal, then proceeded to tig weld them on, slip them over the bed rail, then tig weld the other side. I love how they turned out and it only took 3 hours to complete this modification. I also tig welded the inside of the bed to the rail in multiple locations so they are fused together.

    20190902_130839[1].jpg 20190902_124952[1].jpg 20190902_133555[1].jpg20190902_131239[1].jpg20190902_131319[1].jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  34. #69
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    Looks great.

    Question, the red wire in the Coyote kit harness that says HAMM, DId you run this to battery hot? The manual names a few wires and says the rest are not used, nut the harness has to get power from somewhere.

  35. #70
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    What did you do for Radiator hoses?

  36. #71
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    Aloha Sperger72,

    I don't recall what I did with the HAMM wire, my wiring is sort of a rats nest....so it would be extremely difficult for me to figure that one out. As for the radiator hoses, I used what they sent but installed some backwards and upside down, I did use the flexible metal one, so keep in mind boil some water and heat up the black radiator hose, this will make it possible to slip over the metal hose.

    Doug

  37. #72
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    Aloha Sperger72,

    I don't recall what I did with the HAMM wire, my wiring is sort of a rats nest....so it would be extremely difficult for me to figure that one out. As for the radiator hoses, I used what they sent but installed some backwards and upside down, I did use the flexible metal one, so keep in mind boil some water and heat up the black radiator hose, this will make it possible to slip over the metal hose.

    Doug

  38. #73
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    Thanks Doug

  39. #74
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    For anyone reading my desperate Help needed posts in the other Forums I finally figured out my last Gremlin in the electrical system. My Tach would not work, I even purchased an additional autometer 9117 to check to see if mine was bad. Where I spliced in my tach signal wires the location and orientation of the harness made me believe that the harness side and the coil side were switched and I had 2 wires switched!!!!, I just had to switch these 2 wires, the Red/green and the Red....and it worked!!!! I have a Tachometer that works!!!!! I can now final install my cab!!!!! if you cant tell I am so pumped

  40. #75
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    Aloha,

    I’m currently in Oahu.... also looking to purchase a kit. Hit me up if you need any help.. I have nothing but time to kill here.

    Willing to help at anytime
    Last edited by DogoX; 09-06-2019 at 12:06 PM.

  41. #76
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    Did you run into a dead fuel pump, no power?

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