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Thread: Engine Mount Torque Specs

  1. #1
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Engine Mount Torque Specs

    I'm looking to put the engine in tomorrow. Yeah! I'll be flying solo but should be just fine. Just wanted to verify a couple of torque specs:

    Engine mounts to the block
    Engine mounts to the frame
    Transmission cross member bolts and trans mount

    Looked in the manual but not there and not too many threads around it.

    Thanks!
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    I don't recall seeing torque specs either. I've been wrenching for 40+ years, so I've got what you could call a "calibrated hand". I pretty much only drag out the torque wrench on mission critical bolts such as suspension or engine internals - everything else is mostly done by feel.
    I found this chart, it may be helpful - but it is not gospel! Use common sense and "feel". Common Bolt Torque Values

    A couple of tips that will help - I also was "flying solo" installing the Coyote:
    - Watch the alignment when installing the FFR spacers into the motor mounts. They like to squish out/move. Make sure they stay centered & square.
    - Loctite Blue on the mount to block bolts
    - Install the braided engine ground strap to the block.
    - Don't install the trans crossmember until after the engine/trans is in.
    - Pull the steering shaft off of the rack, and tie it off to the side. (I think I removed the DS rack mounting bolt, and pushed the rack down to get the clearance to disengage the shaft)
    - Get any obstructions (wiring harnesses, etc) out of the way, taped/tied off.
    - Pull the side drain plug from the oil pan (of all things this was the only thing to snag on something going in)
    - Have a small bottle or floor jack and wood blocks ready to support the trans after everything's in the hole.
    - I didn't raise the rear of the car... it went in without doing so. (frame to floor clearance was about 5")
    - I didn't remove the shifter mechanism from the trans, just the stick.

    - Engine Leveler for the crane... Must Have Item
    - Do a few test lifts with the crane. Have the leveler centered, and lift the engine/trans. Adjust the chains at this stage to get the load hanging level. (This will give you maximum range on the leveler when you need it).
    - Do a thorough housecleaning in the shop... Have as much free & clear workspace as you can possibly get. Sweep the floor! If there's divots in the concrete, tape down a piece of sheetmetal over them... (think skateboard hitting a pebble)

    - I picked up a couple of large fender & lockwashers for the mount to frame studs. I didn't like the looks of the supplied hardware and the size of the slot in the mount. Headers_06.png (You can just see the top of it at the bottom center)

    - NEVER EVER get under the load!
    - It needs to go in at a pretty severe angle, Go slow & easy... it's a dance between lift/angle/push/lower/angle/push/repeat.
    - Have some celebratory beverages chilling. This is a major milestone and warrants hoisting one upon completion!
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
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  4. #3
    Senior Member cv2065's Avatar
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    Man, thanks for all that John. Your post should be a sticky!! Let you know how it goes.
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    MKIV Roadster - #TBD - Complete Kit - Delivered 11/6/23 - In Progress
    Build Thread #2: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...Build-Thread-2

  5. #4
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    My notes show engine-to-mount bolts torqued to 35-60 foot-pounds, and mount-to-frame bolts torqued to 50-105 foot-pounds.

    I also noted that the transmission-to-transmission-mount bolts torqued to 50-70 foot-pounds (40-56 foot pounds if you use anti-seize), and transmission-mount-to-transmission-support bolts torqued to 25-35 foot-pounds.


    John
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  6. #5
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    For the fasteners you are inquiring about I suggest you use a torque chart for the grade fastener you are using (should be using at least SAE Grade-5 or Property Class 8.8 if metric). When threaded into holes such as on the engine block, ensure you have a minimum of one diameter of thread engagement in steel and 1.5 times in alum. Use hardened flat washers with these and install them so that the ID chamfer is toward the head of the cap screw (bolt in layman’s terms). Yes, it does make a difference on the cap screw as the ID chamfer is there for clearance of the root radius under the head of the cap screw. On the nut side the flat washer can go either way. Don’t use lock washers with flat washers – and you won’t need a lock washer or thread locker if you torque them properly AND use hardened flat washers. Using non-hardened flat washers or fender washers that are not designed for high strength applications will lead to the fastener coming loose as these type washers are much more ductile, may deform and relax the preload on the cap screw. This is especially the case if using soft washers over an elongated hole (slot in layman’s terms).


    Think of a screw (bolt) as a very stiff spring and when you tighten it to a torque spec you are actually stretching the screw and applying a clamp load. Torque specs are typically established to provide sufficient stretch to keep the screw from coming loose, avoid high-cycle fatigue, and or provide a specific clamp load to hold assemblies together. Using the feel method of tightening critical fasteners is a good way to induce failure. Use a torque wrench and the proper torque to achieve sufficient stretch to keep the fastener tight.
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  7. #6
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    The bolts that go into the block for the motor mounts on the Coyote are metric. Like everything else on the Coyote. The bolts that came with the kit were flange head style marked 8.8 and don't need anything else. Just a proper torque. Like the rest of the engine assembly bolts. As I recall they were in the box with the motor and transmission mount that came with the complete kit. Maybe Factory Five adds them. The provided nuts for the motor mount stud into the frame are flange head distortion style lock nuts. Nothing else needed there either. It's not going anywhere. I agree with NAZ. A soft fender washer there isn't needed or appropriate. Referenced hardware visible in this picture.

    Last edited by edwardb; 02-17-2019 at 11:26 PM.
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  8. #7

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    Ray's Avatar
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    Torque Specs according to FFR Build School at Mott Community College hand out material and documents
    Front suspension
    Upper control Arms adjustment bolts 60
    Upper control Arms mounting bolts 100
    Bracket (Spindle) 70
    Shock (bottom) 70
    LCA 110-150
    Shock Bracket (Lower Arm) 55-70
    Ball Joint (upper) 80-120
    Ball Joint (lower) 80-120
    Rear Suspension
    Upper control Arm to axle 70-100
    Upper control Arm to frame 80-105
    Lower Control Arm to axle bracket 70-100
    Lower Control Arm to frame 80-105
    Lower Control Arm Bracket to axle 90
    Shock Bracket, Lower 55-70
    Shock, Top 25-30
    Shock bottom 45-60
    Quad Shock bracket to frame 56-70
    Quad Shock to bracket 56-70
    Quad shock to axle 56-70
    Rear Suspension (3-Link)
    Pan hard Bar 250
    Upper frame mount 90
    Rear Suspension (IRS)
    Rear Axle nut 250
    Shock (upper/lower) 70
    Spindle attachment 100
    Driveshaft to center section 70-95
    Steering Rack/Shaft
    Steering Rack Bolts 30-40
    Tie Rod Ends 25-35
    Pillow blocks 20
    Exhaust
    Straight Pipe 35
    Engine/Transmission
    Transmission Mounts (Tranny to mount) 25-35
    Transmission mount (Mount to frame) 25-35
    Engine mount (Engine to mount) 35-60
    Engine mount (Mount to frame) 50-105

    Driveshaft bolts 70-95
    Lights/ Trim accessories
    Windshield 90
    Quick Jacks 60
    Body Bolts 20
    Miscellaneous
    Wheel lug nuts 80-105
    Pedal box (front plate upper) 35
    Pedal box (Frame down tube) 10

    ************************************
    Ray
    I'm not getting gray, I'm adding chrome....

    “Under-steer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car and over-steer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car. Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you.”
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    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower."--Mark Donohue

  9. #8
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Using non-hardened flat washers or fender washers that are not designed for high strength applications will lead to the fastener coming loose as these type washers are much more ductile, may deform and relax the preload on the cap screw.
    Using the feel method of tightening critical fasteners is a good way to induce failure.
    Engine mount (Engine to mount) 35-60
    Engine mount (Mount to frame) 50-105
    +/- 100% on these two fasteners??

    I'll let you know if my engine falls out...
    Last edited by Fixit; 02-18-2019 at 07:24 AM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021

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