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Thread: Brake Bleeding

  1. #1
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    Brake Bleeding

    Have my Willwood brakes installed and moved on to bleed them using the standard two person procedure. Could not get the fluid to move after multiple pumps, holds, open/ closes. The level in the resevoire did change. Any suggestions?

    Also I noticed there are 4 nipple valves per caliper....what's up with that? My past experience with brake bleed only had one nipple for each caliper.

  2. #2
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    Multiple bleeder locations, so the calipers can be used in different locations and still have a bleeder at the high point. Try topping off your reservoir and opening the top bleeder on the right rear caliper. Put a rag on the floor and be patient. Leave the cap off the reservoir.
    20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.

  3. #3
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Don't have Willwood calipers just the master cylinders. A couple of bleeding attempts were totally unsuccessful. Bought a hand pump-up pressure bleeder & 100% successful first try.

    Did you bleed the master cylinders before yo installed the lines?
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
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    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
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  4. #4
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    I did not bleed the Master Cylinder. How do you accomplish this?
    Thanks for your help.

  5. #5
    Brandon #9196 TexasAviator's Avatar
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    I made this thread for us innovative types. LOL. Its pretty effective and uses inexpensive stuff to bleed the entire system including the master.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...op+brake+bleed

  6. #6
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    Dual MCs usually bleed better if you have two helpers available so you can open a front caliper + rear caliper at the same time - this way you're stroking both MCs instead of trying to stroke one + exercise the bias bar.

    Either that or pressure bleed.

  7. #7
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    I made this up from hardware store stuff.
    Pressure Bleeder by craig stuard, on Flickr
    I happen to have a pressure regulator that goes to 5# so I use that. A friend used a fish tank air pump. I prefer pressure to vacuum because some bleeders leak at the thread when opened so, even though there is no more air in the line, you still see bubbles.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  8. #8
    Mark Dougherty's Avatar
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    P/m sent
    I will happily walk you through the procedure we use.
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  9. #9
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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    I too fought this for many hours. Here's what worked for me after I didn't bench bleed:

    With the wilwood pedal box dual M/C's, I found that I had to do both front and rear at the same time. Otherwise I wouldn't get the full compression of the M/C's. Have someone press the brake down and hold. Bleed pass rear (open/close bleeder valve), then go to pass front and bleed (open/close bleeder valve). Once done, then have brake pressure released. Repeat multiple times then do driver side.

  10. #10
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    Same concept except you are working with two cylinders instead of a single dual unite like in the vid.
    Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 02-18-2019 at 01:47 PM.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

  11. #11
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    Thanks. Got your message. Will try to call today.

  12. #12
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    Thanks. Can you please walk me through your process?

  13. #13
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    I struggled with this and finally bought the HF vacuum pump for $20 bucks. Half an hour later and it was done. Save yourself the headache. I pumped for almost an hour trying to get fluid to move. This did the trick, easy peasy.

    Scott

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