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Thread: 4 link full droop driveshaft hitting frame

  1. #1
    Administrator 65 Cobra Dude's Avatar
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    4 link full droop driveshaft hitting frame

    I am building a Hot Rod for a customer with the 4 link suspension. The longer shocks are in the rear per the instructions and I have the suspension points on the lower holes. I cannot connect the driveshaft without lifting the rear end while at full droop because it hits the frame at the driveshaft safety loop on a Gen II Hot Rod. There are no limit straps. Anyone else run into this issue and if so, how did you fix it? I have a set of Roadster limit straps that I was thinking of making a bracket and using them.

    Thx,

    Henry

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    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    Do you have your pinion angle set yet?

    Pictures?
    F5R #7841: Anniversary Edition MK4, Ford Racing 427, Edelbrock EFI, Gas-N Pipes, Stainless Headers, TKO600, 3.31 Moser 3-Link, 17" Halibrands

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    Administrator 65 Cobra Dude's Avatar
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    I guess I am not sure how to set pinion angle on a 4 link? The upper and lower control arms are fixed length. If I am
    Missing something, please let me know?

    Thx,

    Henry

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    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    Adjustable Uppers but only if needed.

    https://www.spohn.net/shop/Factory-F...ot-Joints.html

    Quote Originally Posted by 65 Cobra Dude View Post
    I guess I am not sure how to set pinion angle on a 4 link? The upper and lower control arms are fixed length. If I am
    Missing something, please let me know?

    Thx,

    Henry
    F5R #7841: Anniversary Edition MK4, Ford Racing 427, Edelbrock EFI, Gas-N Pipes, Stainless Headers, TKO600, 3.31 Moser 3-Link, 17" Halibrands

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    Administrator 65 Cobra Dude's Avatar
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    Thanks for the link. I know there’s not a lot of 4 links out there but I’m guessing others have run into this issue as well and maybe there is another solution other than buying new uppers. Anyone use limit straps?
    Thx,

    Henry

  6. #6
    EFI Rules and Carbs Drool Arrowhead's Avatar
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    Are all the control arm bolts tight? When you torque all the bolts, it will take the slack out of the 4 link and uppers will straighten out and roll the axle back so the pinion will turn up. Other than that, yea, there's no adjustment on the 4 link other than the lower mounts on the axle.

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    Do you have the correct transmission mount and spacing. I had to space my trans mount up a little to get everything to work

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    Administrator 65 Cobra Dude's Avatar
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    DS,

    I am using the stock FFR tranny mount. Are you saying your driveshaft does not hit the frame at full droop? Looks like the tranny would need quite the shim. Everything is tight and I ended up using pickup truck tail gate straps as knit straps for now.

    Thx,

    Henry

  9. #9
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    Henry
    I used tailgate cables for limits on my 4 link. I ran them from the torque boxes to the chassis tubes so they were as far outboard
    as possible. If they were closer to the middle and only one side was at full droop it would allow the other tire to contact the fender.
    HTH
    Dale

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    nevermind
    Last edited by FFinisher; 03-12-2019 at 11:40 AM.
    FFinisher/AKA RE63

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    4 Link Driveshaft Hitting Frame Full Droop

    Henry,

    How did you end up fixing your driveshaft contact? I have the exact same issue - was also thinking about making some straps.

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    My gen 1 is going to need limit straps also - I think it is pretty common

  13. #13
    Administrator 65 Cobra Dude's Avatar
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    Guys,

    I ended up setting the ride height first and then shimmed the tranny rear about 1/2 inch up. I have about 1/4” space now between DS and frame.

    Henry

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  15. #14
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Henry, does that mean you have 1/4" clearance at ride height or at full droop? And pinion angle?
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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    Senior Member TDSapp's Avatar
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    65 Cobra Dude,

    If I was you, I would try and talk your customer into buying the adjustable 4 link control arms. Not only will it help you adjust the pinion angle, it will allow you to move the rear end back from the frame. When you use the fixed length control arms your rear end will not be centered in the wheel well, which will also limit your tire\wheel selections.

    Many good reasons to go to adjustable ones, no reasons not to go to them.


    Tim
    Tim Sapp
    11110001101
    Build Blog: http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/blog/

    33 Hot Rod
    Delivered 5/31/2017

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    i am running into the same issue .

    first i put the shocks in the upper bolt holes to raise the rear end.
    second i backed off on the adjustment of the springs.

    i am waiting for the engine and tranny to go in, but my next steps were to raise the upper and lower control arms to the top set of holes in the brackets.

    i contacted FFR and they said to set the pinion angle after the weight is one the frame.

    my guess is the shocks will need go be shortened and/or adjustable control arms used.

    i would recommend to contact ffr

    i hope with enough feedback about the same issue they'll provide a proper solution.

  18. #17
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    I have the same issue with the 3-link. Driveshaft will hit the floor at full droop. I dont see any issue when on the ground, but if you jack it up to change a tire, then the driveshaft would get damaged. I like the tailgate straps idea. Like to see some examples of what people have done.
    - Peterh226 #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
    Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
    YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
    AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10

  19. #18
    Administrator 65 Cobra Dude's Avatar
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    FFR sent us some adjustable upper control arms to fix this issue. I have yet to install them because the car is at paint and will be back in 2 weeks or so. I’ll let you know how it works out.

    Thx,

    Henry

  20. #19
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    There are better ways to limit travel but use of nylon straps (look like seat belt material) is common in off-road race vehicles. Pro Comp make some quality ones and you can get them from Summit Racing.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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  22. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    There are better ways to limit travel but use of nylon straps (look like seat belt material) is common in off-road race vehicles. Pro Comp make some quality ones and you can get them from Summit Racing.
    Excellent. I think I can mount to holes in front of the shock that will even look good. Great suggestion, Thanks!
    - Peterh226 #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
    Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
    YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
    AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10

  23. #21
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    Just mount the shock in the top hole. Eliminates the issue of the ds hitting full droop.
    33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
    Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19
    Titled 2-28-20

    MkI.IV 2643k

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