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Thread: Front turn signal mount

  1. #1
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    Front turn signal mount

    The turn signal light housing touches in the middle before the rubber gasket can touch the body.
    Should I clearance the center hole in the body so the gasket acts like a gasket end touches the body and the housing.
    Second,I saw a picture in the directions that looked like the bracket that came attached to one screw at the front turn signal position and the other end was on the bumper bolts wasn’t installed. I am assuming that it must be installed. Also the holes that were factory drilled for the front turn signal light housing are about 1/16 inch to close together. I just elongated the bottom hole.
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  2. #2
    Member JETAV8R's Avatar
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    I enlarged the center hole so the housing would sit flush.
    MKIV Roadster #9414, Complete Kit Delivered 9/8/2018, First Start 11/9/2018, First Go Cart 11/10/2018, Ford 306 Hand Built, E303 Cam, Blueprint Engine Heads, Edelbrock Performer Manifold, Edelbrock AVS2 Carb, Roller Rockers, Tremec T5, 3.55 Moser 3 Link, 17" Halibrand Replicas, Nitto 555 G2's, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Heated Seats, Russ Thompson Turn Signal

  3. #3
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Wait a little bit until Capt. O-Ring replies. He has a great solution but I don't know the specifics size.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    Ok ��
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  5. #5
    Senior Member CDXXVII's Avatar
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    F5R #7841: Anniversary Edition MK4, Ford Racing 427, Edelbrock EFI, Gas-N Pipes, Stainless Headers, TKO600, 3.31 Moser 3-Link, 17" Halibrands

  6. #6
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Like you, I had to oval the holes for the mounting screws, and like JETAV8R I enlarged the center hole so that the housing would sit flush. I also ditched the steel bracket that goes from the quick jack bolts to the turn signal pad; it interfered with my fresh air intake. I read in a Jeff Miller thread long ago that those brackets often have to be massaged so that the plane of the turn signal end lines up with the plane of the body in its final position; he just ditches them. Based on Jeff's information and the fact that loads of cars don't have those brackets, I felt comfortable getting rid of them.


    John

    IMG_4688 by jhsitton, on Flickr
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  7. #7
    slpro1207's Avatar
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    It’s the little things that make a difference. Looks like I’m making a trip to True Value. Thanks for reposting Capt. O’Rings (Jeff K.) idea.
    MK4 delivered 2/24/2017. Complete kit #9023,IRS, Power Steering, Leather, heater, 17" wheels, sway bar ft & rr, tremec 600 and Gordon Levy Racing SBF 427. First start and go kart 8/19/2017. Graduated 1/15/2018
    MK4 #9230 complete kit delivered 1/27/2018. IRS, PS, leather, Tremic 600, SBF 427. Graduation 10/15/2018
    MK3 #5253 donor bought unfinished. SBF 331, T5 Trans.

  8. #8
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    The infamous Captain "O" Ring mod won't do anything to help the lamp sit flush to the body, it just hides the gap between the bezel & body (not to mention chapping Miller's a$$ but that's a different story ). The holes are generally all undersized so just open up the center as well as the ones for the mounting studs---you'll probably find that the rear is much the same. RE: the "horseshoe" brackets for the front corners...the intent is to stabilize the front but in my opinion they are only minimally effective since they mount to the little #10 studs that are just swedged into the marker light bases. Can't hurt, and I use them when I can (they won't fit around the ABS brake duct boots like the ones shown in John's photo without a lot of cutting/massaging/butchering) but I don't feel that they are crucial. With the fill length quick jack tubes and body grommets that have been standard for the past few years the front is quite secure without them...much more so than the old split tubes that sandwiched the body on earlier Mk4s.

    Jeff

  9. #9
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    I thought Miller likes chapped a$$. OH damn that was one of the things we don't talk about.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    I just ordered some Orings. I had a tough time finding them locally.

    Thanks guys.
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  11. #11
    Senior Member lewma's Avatar
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    Guys, I'm having roughly the same problem. Here's a side shot of the front turn signals

    20190224_152827.jpg

    I have enlarged the center hole but the chrome ring does not sit flush with the back of the light so it leaves a pretty big gap. I emailed FFR this morning but they've not replied yet.

    mark
    Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand
    Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering

  12. #12
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    Yep, thats the way they are made. Been like that for ever, you don't really want the metal ring setting against the paint. If it was, you couldn't remove the lens without scratching the paint.

  13. #13
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lewma View Post
    Guys, I'm having roughly the same problem. Here's a side shot of the front turn signals

    20190224_152827.jpg

    I have enlarged the center hole but the chrome ring does not sit flush with the back of the light so it leaves a pretty big gap. I emailed FFR this morning but they've not replied yet.

    mark
    See post #5

    Jeff

  14. #14
    Senior Member lewma's Avatar
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    Dan from FFR replied and said that the lenses could be pushed out and reseated. Saw your reply Jeff, thanks. I'm going to see if I can push out and reseat the lense somehow. Overall a little disappointed with these lights.
    Last edited by lewma; 02-25-2019 at 06:35 PM.
    Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand
    Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering

  15. #15
    Senior Member lewma's Avatar
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    Good point rich. We do need little gap there so the lense can be removed. Didn't think of that!
    Build 1: Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 Ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18, CA SB100 Registered 9/11/19 - Gen 2 Coyote TKO600, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand
    Build 2: Gen3 Coupe Complete Kit #309 Ordered 1/25/21, Delivered 6/9/21 - BluePrint GM 427 LS T56, IRS, AC, Power Steering

  16. #16
    Well Used Member boat737's Avatar
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    Some others that seem to fit better. I used # RM00770, still has a bit of a gap, but better.

    https://jollyrogersmotors.com/store/c/172-MGA.html?pi=5

    Also, with a little trimming and messaging, the horseshoes will fit over the intake ducts.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by boat737; 02-25-2019 at 08:48 PM.
    If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
    Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
    Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread

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