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Thread: Drivers Door Fit Problem

  1. #1
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    Drivers Door Fit Problem

    After spending hours to sand the sides and bottom of the door to get it to fit into the body opening I find the door is warped.
    The lower front corner of the door is at least 1/2" out from the body.
    The back side, the top front, and most of the lower edge fit fine.
    I remember reading someone said put it out in the sun with weight on it.
    Will that really allow the edge to bend in that much or should I try to get a new door?
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  2. #2

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    I think SVTFreak is the fellow that addressed this issue.
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 02-27-2019 at 07:09 PM.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Steve, I PM him.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  4. #4
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Don't Panic. I ran into the same thing and after numerous attempts and calls with Tony, I finally figured it out and its not that hard, I'll try and describe the process and then hope this helps.
    1 - Fit the door shell to the opening without the supporting frame, this will allow you to ensure its alignment, don't worry about the alignment of the door face to the body at this point.
    2 - Once the shell is fitted (I kept minimal gaps), get the door support arm fit to the body with all the clearances, then remove it and get the slots in the door aligned so you can get the hinges into the door.
    3 - Follow the instructions in the book and other videos to get the door installed with the bear claw latch, DON'T install the strike pin yet.
    4 - OK, now using the four 1/2" bolts at the hinge side of the door, loosen and align the rear of the door as close as possible to the body, don't worry about the front at this time. Once aligned now your ready to adjust the front. The rear bracket that sits on the door can be connected to the FG door via a couple 1/4" bolts spaced far apart. This will also hold that alignment and make further minor alignment easier later
    5 - Now in the front, where you have the two 3/8" carriage bolts that connect the arm to the plate that's connected to the bear claw latch, dependent on if the top or bottom of the door at the front is misaligned, you will loosen these bolts and carefully add in spacer shims either above (BETWEEN THE PLATES) the top bolt to move (twist) the bottom of the door in or under the bottom bolt to move (twist) the top of the door in. This may take a few tries but be patient, it works and the fiberglass door is flexible enough to take the minor twist to it. Tighten the bolts thereafter to hold it all together (I added only a 3/32" shim on the top to pull the bottom of the door in and the top out splitting the difference and also getting better alignment to the body/frame as well.
    6 - Now go back to the rear and, if necessary, lossen either the top or bottom set of bolts to allow you to further move the door shell in or out as necessary. (This is where the two 1/4" bolts come into play to hold the shell to the bracket).
    7 - Now your ready to mark, setup and align the front striker pin.

    You may need to go back and forth a bit however once aligned when you pull the two rear pivot pins the door goes right back into its place. I know these are broad strokes of an explanation but its easy and it works, I just wish that I had realized this before trying to do the body work as extensively in some areas as I have done. This is also why i tell everyone one to get the body and doors installed and done first so they can cruise through the rest for the most part. I truly hope this helps, I will get some picks of the front shim I put in and edit the post, the doors now close with little to no effort

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  6. #5
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    Thank you for posting this AJT'33 as my drivers side door at the front bottom corner sticks way out also. I am going to try this shimming procedure. I will admit though that I was shocked and disappointed in the body when it showed up but have been working through these issue

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    AJT, thanks. I follow everything you have said. Never thought about putting shims in (your #5) but that should take care of it.
    Hope to get this done today.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

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    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    AJT, thanks. I follow everything you have said. Never thought about putting shims in (your #5) but that should take care of it.
    Hope to get this done today.
    If I would have known about the shims I probably would have saved 3 days of putty and fairing the sides. Good luck!

  9. #8
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    AJT '33 thanks a bunch. I first added 3 washers to the bottom, that pulled the bottom in about half of what was needed.
    Next I got a 1/2" chunk of aluminum that I put in at the very bottom (took washers out). That was just enough to have to front of the door fit the body evenly from the top to the bottom.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  10. #9
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    Jim, sorry for the delay replying to your PM. Glad you got it going your way.

    FYI, I didn’t have the same problem with the doors. Mine was with the trunk and I actually haven’t tackled that yet.

  11. #10
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svtfreak View Post
    Jim, sorry for the delay replying to your PM. Glad you got it going your way.

    FYI, I didn’t have the same problem with the doors. Mine was with the trunk and I actually haven’t tackled that yet.
    Hi SVT, when you manually fit the trunk lid, if it does not sit evenly all around you may want to give Tony a call. Mine had the middle ~3/8" tall in the middle which would not have been able to get down, set it up took pictures sent to Tony Z and he immediately advised that a new one was on the way. A week later (because I'm in Canada) the new one arrived and fit like a glove. See post #133 on my build thread. I know others that have cut and glassed it in, added stiffeners etc... however I felt it was easier to see if I could get a new one which I did.
    20180621_192335.jpg

  12. #11
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    AJT '33 thanks a bunch. I first added 3 washers to the bottom, that pulled the bottom in about half of what was needed.
    Next I got a 1/2" chunk of aluminum that I put in at the very bottom (took washers out). That was just enough to have to front of the door fit the body evenly from the top to the bottom.
    Hey Jim, you may want to release the rear plate and then loosen the two main brackets for the hinge, "twist" those two relative to each other a bit and you should be able to have much less front end shim. May be worth the try, I seem to remember having done that so as not to have too big a shim. You can then redrill two new locking holes for the back bracket.

  13. #12
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    AJT, I'll do that today. I appreciate all the help.
    I was also thinking about drilling and tapping the front bracket so I could use two bolts to spread the bottom of the front bracket away from the door frame bracket. That would make it easier to adjust the door.
    Will post some pics later today.
    I haven't got to the trunk lid yet.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  14. #13
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    The 1/2" spacer did get the bottom of the door in so now the whole front of the door aligns with the body.
    Dscn2690.jpg

    After messing with the rear of the door I was only able to reduced the front spacer down to .450"
    I added a bolt to make it adjustable which I will change to a hex set screw so it won't stick out.
    These doors are a PITA....have I said that before?
    DSCN2691.JPG
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  15. #14
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Hey Jim, pop a picture of the door closed and in place, I see something that might be your issue but need to see it overall. As well, if your door bolt striker is in place, then remove it for now that will give you headaches in your fit. You need to have it fit without it in place. Looks like your sitting the same way as I was about 9 months ago.

  16. #15
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    I ended up glassing the lower front of PS door and back lower of DS side door. It was front or back of doors but not both!

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    Wow Jim,
    A 1/2" spacer is a lot. The bottom front of my DS door was out over 1/2" and I only had to shim about .185. and door came out perfect.

    Car # 1032

    Rick
    Last edited by 60's Kid; 03-02-2019 at 01:15 PM.

  18. #17
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    AJT '33, you want a pic of the door from the inside or the outside?
    I'll get a pic posted later today, need to put the door back on first.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  19. #18
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    Here's a few pics. Let me know if you need something different.

    DSCN2693.JPG

    DSCN2694.JPG

    DSCN2695.JPG
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  20. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by 60's Kid View Post
    Wow Jim,
    A 1/2" spacer is a lot. The bottom front of my DS door was out over 1/2" and I only had to shim about .185. and door came out perfect.

    Car # 1032

    Rick
    After adjusting everything I could (too many times) the best I can do is using a 0.340" spacer to get the front bottom corner of the door even with the body.
    I even tried heating both sides of the door with my heat gun, that really didn't do anything.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  21. #20
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    After adjusting everything I could (too many times) the best I can do is using a 0.340" spacer to get the front bottom corner of the door even with the body.
    I even tried heating both sides of the door with my heat gun, that really didn't do anything.
    Hey Jim, sorry for the delay, business first as it pays the bills, went back and looked and realized I ended up releasing the FG shell from the door support completely, then set the frame in using the tech screws in the back then reset the front and like Rick ended up with about an eighth inch spacer with a little bit of bondo to fair in the body to the door, maybe a 1/16" in one area. I ended up glassing in a few holes thereafter but it was worth the time to reset it and really split all the differences.

  22. #21

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    Driver Door Issue

    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    After spending hours to sand the sides and bottom of the door to get it to fit into the body opening I find the door is warped.
    The lower front corner of the door is at least 1/2" out from the body.
    The back side, the top front, and most of the lower edge fit fine.
    I remember reading someone said put it out in the sun with weight on it.
    Will that really allow the edge to bend in that much or should I try to get a new door?
    I have the same issue with my Roadster. Take pictures and send them to FF. I did this along with an explination and they are sending out a replacement door.

    TWolfe

  23. #22
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    AJT, I did try that but I was still not close.
    The big shim brings the bottom in but then I found out the drivers door inner panel that the bear claw latch mounts to is 1/4" shorter than the pass door so the latch is too far back and doesn't mate with the striker pin.
    After 4 days of mess'n with this I did what TWolfe suggested.

    Here it is with no shim.
    DSCN2696.JPG

    DSCN2698.JPG
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  24. #23
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    AJT, I did try that but I was still not close.
    The big shim brings the bottom in but then I found out the drivers door inner panel that the bear claw latch mounts to is 1/4" shorter than the pass door so the latch is too far back and doesn't mate with the striker pin.
    After 4 days of mess'n with this I did what TWolfe suggested.

    Here it is with no shim.
    DSCN2696.JPG

    DSCN2698.JPG
    OH CRAP!!! Thats a big twist!!! Never had anything close to that, I agree your fighting an uphill battle. Check the other side for fit in case they need to send you two!!!

  25. #24
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    The pass side is fine.
    I sent Tony the pics, he said to call him this morning.
    I can fix the twist using shims but the latch not being close enough to the pin is another problem.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  26. #25
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    I'm having this same problem with my gen2 drivers side door, although it's the top that's out. I've added quite a lot of spacing to try pull the door straight, but I'm still 1/2" out. I'm worried that this much twist is going to affect how the windows install, FFR says to keep adding shims.

    Did shimming your frame affect how the glass installs?
    Last edited by DoBoy; 09-11-2019 at 02:16 PM.

  27. #26
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    I haven't installed the glass yet. I don't think the bolt/shims will effect it.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

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