Hi,
The lowest part of my car is the clutch bell housing.
It sits about 3/8” below the 4” tubes. Can I grind off the lip that hangs below the rest of the car or just leave it?
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Hi,
The lowest part of my car is the clutch bell housing.
It sits about 3/8” below the 4” tubes. Can I grind off the lip that hangs below the rest of the car or just leave it?
Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum
Packer Fan,
I know very little about Fords, but could you possibly lift the engine 3/8" instead?
Go-Dad (Saints Fan) From NOLA
Last edited by GoDadGo; 02-27-2019 at 11:01 PM.
The engine is already using motor mount spacers.
Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum
Quicktime bell housing. Not sure about a cast bell housing.
It's still the lowest point in the car by a fraction of an inch, and it has dragged a bit on certain driveways, but much better.
Last edited by boat737; 02-28-2019 at 01:14 AM.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
I too have trimmed the QuickTime bell housings, and am comfortable recommending you do the same. The non-SFI version only requires a little bit. Sounds like the 3/8-inch you're talking about. The SFI version, which it looks like boat737 is showing, has a full circle and requires a deeper cut. Ideally, it would be better not to cut them I guess. But the negatives of having them running into things outweighs that IMO.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I trimmed the bottom of bellhousing on mine. It hangs to low if you don't. Once you cut it, it will negate the SFI rating, but for the vast majority of us it doesn't matter. As edwardb says, the negatives out weigh the positives. Mine is cut up about half way through the bottom hole. Still hangs a tad below the frame, but much better.
Last edited by ckrueger; 02-28-2019 at 09:32 AM.
Chuck Krueger
MK4 Kit - Picked up 4/5/14, Complete Kit, 3-Link, Wilwood upgrade, Coyote, TKO 500, First Start 7/25/15
2000 C5
2003 C5 Z06
2007 C5 Z06
Unless you're going to race your car and need the SFI cert don't worry about trimming the lower part. If it's a scatter shield and you've trimmed enough to leave an opening then you can expect some shrapnel to exit out the bottom if the clutch or flywheel explodes. Will that create a health hazard? If it was so low you had to trim it then exiting clutch parts will also be below your floorboards.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
I changed my oil pan because it was too low, then trimmed my QuickTime bell housings because it was now the lowest point. It's still a little too low but better.
MK4 Roadster # 8548, Ford Performance X427, TKO 600, 8.8 3 Link, Paint by Jeff Miller, Suspension setup by Frank Maslowski I.E.427
Apologies in advance - hopefully this isn't too much of a detour to the original thread. I'm getting ready to order a Quick time bell housing for my Coyote/TKO600 combo and am debating between the SFI and non-SFI version. Other than the wider flange, is there anything else about the design or construction of the SFI version that would make it a "safer" bell housing (e.g., thicker gauge steel)? If I'm not planning to race, but still want the safest bell housing I can get, is there a reason to buy the SFI version (Yes, I would be planning to trim it as discussed here).
Thanks,
John
MkIV Roadster build: Gen 2 Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Engine installed 8/8/21. First start 9/12/21. First go-kart 9/17/21. Off to paint 4/11/22. Back from paint 12/30/22. Build thread here.
John, can't tell you the difference between a non-SFI certified and a SFI certified bell -- I've only used their SFI versions. But I have talked to the head of Quick Time and he explained to me what they have to do to meet SFI and it was impressive. Now I didn't go back and dig out my notes so I'm going off memory and may not have the figures exactly correct but I think I'm close. They mount a special 20lb flywheel to a test fixture and spin it at 10,000 RPM then shatter it. None of the pieces can escape the bellhousing. Don't know the size of the fragments or diameter of the flywheel (if I did I could calculate the kinetic energy) but intuitively that was impressive that no piece can escape and that includes the opening for the T/O lever. I was considering adding a deflector shield over that T/O lever opening and after my discussion with QT I decided that wasn't necessary.
Not sure the non-certified bell could pass that standard. If you're really interested you can call Quick Time and ask. This outfit is easy to work with and will provide you with all the info you need. Ask for Ross McCombs, he was the founder and CEO of Quick Time before it was bought out and is still running the day to day operation. Great guy, very helpful.
Last edited by NAZ; 02-28-2019 at 05:05 PM.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
Unless you need the SFI rating for sactioning reasons (e.g. racing) which it doesn't sound like you do, get the non-SFI QuickTime for your Coyote build. Specifically RM-6080 for the Coyote/TKO combination. The flange along the bottom is flat versus the full round of the SFI version. So a couple less bolts. But if you want the SFI version to not hang below the frame, you'll be cutting that extra material off anyway. I've also heard, although haven't experienced it myself because I haven't tried to install one for that combination, that the SFI version interferes with the Roadster frame. But the material is the same and the protection it would provide to the occupants for your purposes is more than adequate IMO. For street only driving, many would argue that the aluminum bell is enough, and a ton of builds use them. But I get where you're coming from and have used QuickTimes on my street driven builds.
I've done several QuickTime bells in these builds, non-SFI and SFI in the Coupe build (only thing available for the Coyote/T-56 combination) and in all cases had to trim the bottom edge so it didn't hang below the frame. However, in no case was the trim any more than some of the flange and never actually opens up the bottom. No worries about that.
Last edited by edwardb; 02-28-2019 at 05:43 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
On mine I can see the flywheel.
Does that mean that it is non sfi? And if so does that mean that I will not be able to take it to any track ( road coarse or 1/4 mile) ?
Thanks
Jim
I just found out that I can track it this way, just not wheel to wheel.
Last edited by Packer fan; 02-28-2019 at 05:57 PM. Reason: New info
Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
If you plan to drag race your car at an NHRA track and it runs faster than 11.49 then you are required to run a SFI 6.1 (or 6.2 / 6.3) certified bell and the clutch and flywheel will also have to be SFI certified. And it doesn't stop there so if you think you might want to run the 1/4-mile better take a look at the NHRA rules, Section-21 which you can find on NHRARacer.com. They are especially difficult to comply with when running a convertible.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
Agreeing with NAZ.... MK4 stock roll bars are 1 1/2” in diameter. NHRA rules require 1 3/4” if I’m not mistaken. So it would be hard to get a MK4 to pass. Even if you went with a Breeze 1 3/4” it’s too short for most people. So IMHO, if you can’t get your roll bar to pass, there’s not much need to get a SFI scatter shield. If you feel safer with a scatter shield (I know I do lol) by all means go for it. Do you need a SFI certified one? Naw... And to be honest 98% of us, ok maybe 95 lol... won’t have the horsepower or turning extreme RPM’s to have an explosion happening in there. Just some random thoughts....
Kurt
Oh, and go Jaguars!
Last edited by SSNK4US; 03-01-2019 at 01:47 AM.
If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....
Build thread
MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18
I haven't modified mine yet, but plan on cutting it similar to this.
mod.jpg
Mark IV, Boss 351c, Toploader, Levy 5 link
Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum
Looks like you left the backing plate off. A Quicktime has a steel plate behind the flywheel, same diameter as he bell housing. Not sure about the aluminum bell housing. From past experience, bell housings have a sheetmetal cover plate to close the opening... keeping road debris out.
Last edited by Ducky2009; 03-01-2019 at 04:31 PM.
MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035
It didn’t come with any.
Maybe I will call Mike Forte.
It also doesn’t have any bolt holes on the bottom like I see on the ones with the plates.
The one in Asbites post has a cover but it has holes in it higher up.
Last edited by Packer fan; 03-01-2019 at 09:40 PM. Reason: Additional info
Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum
Been away all day, so just getting a chance to respond. That's the first thing I noticed with the picture as well. No block plate. Wasn't expecting that. So X2 on Ducky2009's response. Also see you have an aluminum bell so all the discussion and pictures about QuickTime aren't applicable. Unfortunately this is a pretty big deal because you have everything assembled including the engine in the chassis. The bell has to be separated from the engine so it can go between. Typically also will require the flywheel and clutch to be removed, although I don't know what the one for that bell housing looks like. Some can slip behind the installed flywheel. But many just have a hole for the crankshaft and require the flywheel to be removed so it can be placed against the engine block. Since I don't know that style, also don't know what bolts it has along the bottom. Maybe none. It's not SFI rated (an aluminum bell won't be in any case) so likely doesn't have the ring of bolts like the SFI QuickTimes. In addition to covering up the hole you're seeing, the block plate provides the proper spacing for the transmission input shaft into the pilot bearing. Also for the starter motor. Each are now off about 1/8-inch (the thickness of the block plate) which may/may not be a problem. On a side note, and maybe I mentioned this before, an aluminum bell housing is no longer available for the Coyote/T-56 combination. So Mike apparently still had one around. Too bad the block plate was omitted. Kind of a big deal. The only bell housing that I know of for the Coyote/T-56 combination today is the QuickTime RM-8080.
Edit: After writing the above, checked the standard block plate (or starter index plate as Ford is calling it) for the stock Coyote with a manual trans. I have no idea if it fits your setup. But at least this gives you an idea of what we're talking about. If by any chance this one would fit, it doesn't require major disassembly. You can also see, at least for this one, there are no bolts along the bottom. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-7007-A
Last edited by edwardb; 03-02-2019 at 06:33 AM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Grrr
Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum
Just spoke to Mike Forte. He is going to send a blocking plate Monday.
I guess I’m pulling a transmission when I get home. He said I can cut the plate in half and just slide the bell housing off a little and install it. I’m thinking it might be easier to pull the transmission first because the whole thing won’t want to move with the clutch and transmission installed. The car is on a lift and I have a transmission jack.
Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum
Thanks Edwardb,
The block off plate must be different than the one you had a link too because he is talking about cutting it and that one doesn’t look like I would need to cut it. Do you know if there was a reason they stopped making the aluminum bell housings? Maybe I would be better off just getting a quick time bell housing if there was a reason they don’t make that one anymore.
Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum
What did you cut the bell housing with? Sawzall?
M
The bell housing has not been cut.
Mike F said to cut the scatter shield when I het it in half in order to make it easier to install.
Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum