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Thread: Parts for power brakes

  1. #1
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Parts for power brakes

    Hi all, i'm wanting to change to power brakes and was wondering if anybody had figured out the parts, over the counter for a setup like Whitby offers?
    Thanks
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  2. #2
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Question, what foot pedals are you using, Wilwood or mustang? Because I have a Wilwood pedalbox, I had to make my own brake pedal, post 194. Whitby also sells one.

    Check out the link below.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post293305
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 02-28-2019 at 02:00 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  3. #3
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    I have a sn95 pedal box, with '93 brake booster (whitby) and a '95 Mercury Villager MC (abs or non abs - your choice) that needed to have a bit of machining (similar to what whitby does). I enlarged the mount holes on the MC to 7/16" and increased the depth of the MC plunger to 1.00" from 0.875 with a 7/16" bit. If you go with the abs MC, you'll need to do a little bit of adaption to get to the inverted flare brake lines of your car. I used 2 spacers inbetween the MC and the booster.

    You'll also need to move the steering flange bearing to the inside of the Footbox,

    Untitled by D. R., on Flickr

    trim the the 3/4" frame tube so that the booster will have room to fit,

    IMG_1983 by D. R., on Flickr

    and will also need to enlarge the hole where the booster will enter the footbox. To mate the booster up to the footbox wall, you'll need a spacer in between the booster and the front wall. ReplicaParts.com does a spacer that fits and seals the gap well.

    And finally, if you have a sn95 pedal box, you may need to do a little knotching on the pedal box to get everything to fit (because you moved the flange bearing to the inside of the box).

    Untitled by D. R., on Flickr

    Untitled by D. R., on Flickr


    Untitled by D. R., on Flickr

    Hope this Helps!

    More Pics

    Whitby also includes the reservoirs, bracket, hose and nipples that fit in the MC.
    Last edited by DadofThree; 02-28-2019 at 12:11 PM.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  4. #4
    Senior Member CFranks's Avatar
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    I already had the MC and remote reservoirs for my manual setup so didn't need the full Whitby setup. I bought a 93 booster (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-54-73207) and already had a 95 Cobra MC from Breeze. Everything bolted right together, didn't need to machine anything (except for cut a 2.5" hole in the firewall with a hole saw - use a wood template bolted on) and also created 3/8'' spacer between the booster and firewall. For the gap in the frame, I cut the frame at about 1" and 7" and bolted an 8" long piece of square tube on the outside (credit goes to Mike Everson's threads for that idea).

    As a caveat, I have yet to drive it so can't attest to how well it all works. I have GT brakes all around so all the parts should match.

    Booster
    Last edited by CFranks; 02-28-2019 at 01:05 PM.

  5. #5
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    For you guys retrofitting from manual to power be aware that if you modified the pivot of your pedal (as you should have if you used a donor pedal box from a car originally equipped with power) you will need to go back to the original configuration. If you use the manual pivot geometry with a power booster your brakes will be ultra sensitive and act kind of like an on/off switch!

    Jeff

  6. #6
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    For you guys retrofitting from manual to power be aware that if you modified the pivot of your pedal (as you should have if you used a donor pedal box from a car originally equipped with power) you will need to go back to the original configuration. If you use the manual pivot geometry with a power booster your brakes will be ultra sensitive and act kind of like an on/off switch!

    Jeff
    Hey Jeff,

    This is the first time I've heard about moving the pivot point when using a donor footbox w/ manual brakes. Where can I find the info on that modification? Thanks!
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk3.1 #6602 which was an unfinished project in go-kart stage; 9/2019 -- completed car enough to drive locally and compete in autocross events; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; Tremec 3550; 3.51 rear diff; lots of Breeze pieces; 2021 -- XP Champion in Central PA Region - SCCA Autocross Series; 2022 - installed windshield and registered in PA; my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

    6/2022 -- acquired Mk3 #1004; finished build; 347 stroker w/ Holley 560 carb SOLD

  7. #7
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Got a manual? It'll be in the donor parts prep section.

    Jeff

  8. #8
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    For you guys retrofitting from manual to power be aware that if you modified the pivot of your pedal (as you should have if you used a donor pedal box from a car originally equipped with power) you will need to go back to the original configuration. If you use the manual pivot geometry with a power booster your brakes will be ultra sensitive and act kind of like an on/off switch!

    Jeff
    Yes i did cut down my brake pedal and am in the process of trying to find a replacement. But thanks for the reminder Jeff.
    Anybody needing one already cut down i will trade you and pay shipping, will need to be for 1987 to 1993 mustang with manual tranny!
    Thanks
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  9. #9
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Got a manual? It'll be in the donor parts prep section.

    Jeff
    Thanks Jeff! I found it in the manual (page 28-29). Now I'll have to go check the car to see if this has been done. As always, I appreciate the heads-up!!
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk3.1 #6602 which was an unfinished project in go-kart stage; 9/2019 -- completed car enough to drive locally and compete in autocross events; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; Tremec 3550; 3.51 rear diff; lots of Breeze pieces; 2021 -- XP Champion in Central PA Region - SCCA Autocross Series; 2022 - installed windshield and registered in PA; my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

    6/2022 -- acquired Mk3 #1004; finished build; 347 stroker w/ Holley 560 carb SOLD

  10. #10
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    Yes i did cut down my brake pedal and am in the process of trying to find a replacement. But thanks for the reminder Jeff.
    Anybody needing one already cut down i will trade you and pay shipping, will need to be for 1987 to 1993 mustang with manual tranny!
    Thanks
    Walt
    Walt, I may be just the guy you're looking for. I bought 6602 as an unfinished kit and the pedals are already installed. I'll check them this weekend to see if the brake pedal has been modified. If not, I'd be happy to swap with you. Please stay tuned!
    Last edited by FF6602; 03-01-2019 at 04:46 PM.
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk3.1 #6602 which was an unfinished project in go-kart stage; 9/2019 -- completed car enough to drive locally and compete in autocross events; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; Tremec 3550; 3.51 rear diff; lots of Breeze pieces; 2021 -- XP Champion in Central PA Region - SCCA Autocross Series; 2022 - installed windshield and registered in PA; my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

    6/2022 -- acquired Mk3 #1004; finished build; 347 stroker w/ Holley 560 carb SOLD

  11. #11
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Does this brake pedal mod look right??

    I checked out my car yesterday, looking for the brake pedal mod described in the Mk3 build manual and mentioned in Jeff's post. Here's what I found:

    1.) The pivot arm has been moved to the lower set of holes referred to in the build manual.

    brake pedal pivot mod 1.jpg


    2.) I see no sign that the pedal arm was modified by removing 1.5" between the pivot and the pushrod attachment point, as the build manual instructs.


    brake pedal pushrod modified.jpg


    3.) What I did find was what appears to be a "custom" pushrod extension, that was welded to the master cylinder pushrod. The extension looks like the letter "P" laying on it's side with the loop pointing down towards the floor. Like this crude drawing:

    custom pushrod diagram.jpg

    brake pedal pushrod _ top side.jpg

    brake pedal pushrod _ underside.jpg



    Does this look like it would work for the proper leverage on a manual braking system....?? Or, should I scrap the "custom" pushrod and...

    A.) Follow the build manual instructions about cutting and sectioning the pedal, then replace the m/c pushrod?

    OR

    B.) Switch to aftermarket pedals (i.e. Wilwood or Maximum Motorsports Pedals)? Is there a Forum Sponsor that makes/sells such parts?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk3.1 #6602 which was an unfinished project in go-kart stage; 9/2019 -- completed car enough to drive locally and compete in autocross events; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; Tremec 3550; 3.51 rear diff; lots of Breeze pieces; 2021 -- XP Champion in Central PA Region - SCCA Autocross Series; 2022 - installed windshield and registered in PA; my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

    6/2022 -- acquired Mk3 #1004; finished build; 347 stroker w/ Holley 560 carb SOLD

  12. #12
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Craig ,If the brake pedal pad is at the same height from the floor it has been cut down, im out of town for a couple of days, when i get back i will measure the length to compare to yours.
    Thanks
    Walt

    That should be same as the clutch!
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  13. #13
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Craig,
    What you have there is an adjustable pushrod. It allows you to change it's length to adjust the pedal height but does not change the geometry of the pedal.

    Jeff

  14. #14

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    That pedal has bee modified. In fact it was done by me. I don't cut and reweld the pedal. I cut off the pivot on the top and drill a new pivot hole then weld in a new pivot tube.
    Your pushrod is a stock modified unit.
    Mike

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  16. #15
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    Craig ,If the brake pedal pad is at the same height from the floor it has been cut down, im out of town for a couple of days, when i get back i will measure the length to compare to yours.
    Thanks
    Walt

    That should be same as the clutch!
    Thanks for the offer Walt. However, based on Mike Everson's reply, it appears unnecessary because he confirmed that the pedal was modified by him! So, I think I'm good to go!
    Last edited by FF6602; 03-03-2019 at 12:48 PM.
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk3.1 #6602 which was an unfinished project in go-kart stage; 9/2019 -- completed car enough to drive locally and compete in autocross events; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; Tremec 3550; 3.51 rear diff; lots of Breeze pieces; 2021 -- XP Champion in Central PA Region - SCCA Autocross Series; 2022 - installed windshield and registered in PA; my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

    6/2022 -- acquired Mk3 #1004; finished build; 347 stroker w/ Holley 560 carb SOLD

  17. #16
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael everson View Post
    That pedal has bee modified. In fact it was done by me. I don't cut and reweld the pedal. I cut off the pivot on the top and drill a new pivot hole then weld in a new pivot tube.
    Your pushrod is a stock modified unit.
    Mike
    Wow! That's great news, Mike! Makes me feel so much better about the braking system -- I'm so glad that you took time to read my post and look at the photos. I wonder if there is anything else on the car that has your name on it? I've visited your website and would be proud to have any of your parts on my car! FYI -- The 6602 Mk3.1 kit was sold in 2008 to a Ronald Brown in Wakefield, RI if that rings a bell. He did the majority of the work to get it to the go-kart stage before selling it to Dave Butler in Deep River, CT in 2017.

    Again, thanks for time and interest in my car and everyone else's on this forum! I love the cooperative camaraderie!
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk3.1 #6602 which was an unfinished project in go-kart stage; 9/2019 -- completed car enough to drive locally and compete in autocross events; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; Tremec 3550; 3.51 rear diff; lots of Breeze pieces; 2021 -- XP Champion in Central PA Region - SCCA Autocross Series; 2022 - installed windshield and registered in PA; my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

    6/2022 -- acquired Mk3 #1004; finished build; 347 stroker w/ Holley 560 carb SOLD

  18. #17
    FF6602's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    Craig,
    What you have there is an adjustable pushrod. It allows you to change it's length to adjust the pedal height but does not change the geometry of the pedal.

    Jeff
    Thanks Jeff. I learned lots of good news since yesterday's post from you, Mike and Walt. Much appreciated!
    Craig

    10/2018 -- acquired Mk3.1 #6602 which was an unfinished project in go-kart stage; 9/2019 -- completed car enough to drive locally and compete in autocross events; still in original black gel-coat; 347 Stroker w/ Holley 650 carb, roller cam; Tremec 3550; 3.51 rear diff; lots of Breeze pieces; 2021 -- XP Champion in Central PA Region - SCCA Autocross Series; 2022 - installed windshield and registered in PA; my Build Thread -- https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ished-Business

    6/2022 -- acquired Mk3 #1004; finished build; 347 stroker w/ Holley 560 carb SOLD

  19. #18
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    So on the Whitby set up with a fox pedal setup is it plug and play?
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  20. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    So on the Whitby set up with a fox pedal setup is it plug and play?
    Walt
    See below: Even with Fox pedal assy, I expect it will be similar process to install. Not exactly plug and play.

    Quote Originally Posted by DadofThree View Post

    You'll also need to move the steering flange bearing to the inside of the Footbox,

    Untitled by D. R., on Flickr

    trim the the 3/4" frame tube so that the booster will have room to fit,

    IMG_1983 by D. R., on Flickr

    and will also need to enlarge the hole where the booster will enter the footbox. To mate the booster up to the footbox wall, you'll need a spacer in between the booster and the front wall. ReplicaParts.com does a spacer that fits and seals the gap well.


    Hope this Helps!

    More Pics

    Whitby also includes the reservoirs, bracket, hose and nipples that fit in the MC.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  21. #20

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    Craig. Post some pics of the overall car. Lots of us old timers can tell you a lot based on pics.
    Mike

  22. #21
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Dave, does the whitby setup come with the spacer?
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  23. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    Dave, does the whitby setup come with the spacer?
    Walt
    I believe that it did (MC spacers and small spacers for the booster). The spacer from replicaparts.com did not come with the kit. The power brake kit was a complete kit that had a lot of parts and thought put into it.
    Last edited by DadofThree; 03-07-2019 at 04:30 PM.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  24. #23
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    So it looks like even with the spacer the bearing would need to be moved inside, is that right?
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  25. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    So it looks like even with the spacer the bearing would need to be moved inside, is that right?
    Walt
    Yes. Don't pay attention to the title of the blog posts I'm attaching. The frustration was fresh in my head. But you have the advantage of doing this after someone else's frustration of figuring it out.

    Day 1 of install

    Day 2 of install
    Last edited by DadofThree; 03-08-2019 at 11:26 AM.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  26. #25
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Ok, thanks Dave, i talked to Jeff at Whitbys this morning he said the kit should ship next week, heres hopeing! I ordered the spacer and it should also ship next week.
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  27. #26
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Cfranks, where did you get the remote part ?
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  28. #27
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DadofThree View Post
    I have a sn95 pedal box, with '93 brake booster (whitby) and a '95 Mercury Villager MC (abs or non abs - your choice) that needed to have a bit of machining (similar to what whitby does). I enlarged the mount holes on the MC to 7/16" and increased the depth of the MC plunger to 1.00" from 0.875 with a 7/16" bit. If you go with the abs MC, you'll need to do a little bit of adaption to get to the inverted flare brake lines of your car. I used 2 spacers inbetween the MC and the booster.

    You'll also need to move the steering flange bearing to the inside of the Footbox,

    Untitled by D. R., on Flickr

    trim the the 3/4" frame tube so that the booster will have room to fit,

    IMG_1983 by D. R., on Flickr

    and will also need to enlarge the hole where the booster will enter the footbox. To mate the booster up to the footbox wall, you'll need a spacer in between the booster and the front wall. ReplicaParts.com does a spacer that fits and seals the gap well.

    And finally, if you have a sn95 pedal box, you may need to do a little knotching on the pedal box to get everything to fit (because you moved the flange bearing to the inside of the box).

    Untitled by D. R., on Flickr

    Untitled by D. R., on Flickr


    Untitled by D. R., on Flickr

    Hope this Helps!

    More Pics

    Whitby also includes the reservoirs, bracket, hose and nipples that fit in the MC.
    Dave, how did you increase the MC with a drill bit?

    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  29. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by michael everson View Post
    That pedal has bee modified. In fact it was done by me. I don't cut and reweld the pedal. I cut off the pivot on the top and drill a new pivot hole then weld in a new pivot tube.
    Your pushrod is a stock modified unit.
    Mike
    This is how I did my pedal too. The thought of cutting a brake pedal in half, then butt welding it with a mig welder, sounds like a recipe for disaster to me. Just imagine the weld failed during a panick stop.

  30. #29
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Well i have been waiting for the whitby brack kit for over 6 weeks now, it was supposed to be 2 weeks! I'm thinking about going over the counter, anybody know what booster and master fits best without machine work?
    Thanks
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  31. #30
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CFranks View Post
    I already had the MC and remote reservoirs for my manual setup so didn't need the full Whitby setup. I bought a 93 booster (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-54-73207) and already had a 95 Cobra MC from Breeze. Everything bolted right together, didn't need to machine anything (except for cut a 2.5" hole in the firewall with a hole saw - use a wood template bolted on) and also created 3/8'' spacer between the booster and firewall. For the gap in the frame, I cut the frame at about 1" and 7" and bolted an 8" long piece of square tube on the outside (credit goes to Mike Everson's threads for that idea).

    As a caveat, I have yet to drive it so can't attest to how well it all works. I have GT brakes all around so all the parts should match.

    Booster
    Cfranks, did you get the parts that go in the MC from Breeze, that fits the hoses to remote resevoirs?
    Thanks
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  32. #31
    Senior Member CFranks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    Cfranks, did you get the parts that go in the MC from Breeze, that fits the hoses to remote resevoirs?
    Thanks
    Walt
    Hi. I got them from Lodestone Billetworks - http://www.lsbilletworks.com

  33. #32
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Ok, thanks
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  34. #33
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    CFranks, did you need to move the steering bearing to inside the footbox with your booster?
    Sorry to bug again!
    Thanks
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  35. #34
    Senior Member CFranks's Avatar
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    Yep, had to move it inside the footbox as do most people. I also had made a 3/8” spacer to go between the booster and footbox to locate the pedal properly, but even with that still needed to move the bearing. Was kind of a pain for me since the car was fairly far along, had to loosen the steering rack to get enough play to pull out the steering shaft. Few free to PM if you want to talk on detail what I learned.

  36. #35
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Thanks, i have the e-steering and taking it apart is a pain, but am trying to get all the parts i think ill need.
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  37. #36
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Cfranks, i got the inserts for the master, where did you get the clips to hold them in?
    Thanks
    Walt
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  38. #37
    Senior Member CFranks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    Cfranks, i got the inserts for the master, where did you get the clips to hold them in?
    Thanks
    Walt
    Hi. They're just press fit in and not supposed to require clamps since it's not the high pressure side of things. Mine do have zip ties holding them on, not sure if they're necessary but make you feel good.
    MK IV Roadster #7999
    Ford Racing 427x; QF 670 Carb; TKO 600; 3.31 Rear End; 3-link; 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Khumo Ecstas (245 front, 315 rear), EPAS Power Steering; Power Brakes; 8/1/19 - Legal in gelcoat!; 12/1/20 - Paint & bodywork in progress! Silver, no black, no red, wait now silver....

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  40. #38
    Senior Member Walt's Avatar
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    Power brakes

    Quote Originally Posted by CFranks View Post
    I already had the MC and remote reservoirs for my manual setup so didn't need the full Whitby setup. I bought a 93 booster (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-54-73207) and already had a 95 Cobra MC from Breeze. Everything bolted right together, didn't need to machine anything (except for cut a 2.5" hole in the firewall with a hole saw - use a wood template bolted on) and also created 3/8'' spacer between the booster and firewall. For the gap in the frame, I cut the frame at about 1" and 7" and bolted an 8" long piece of square tube on the outside (credit goes to Mike Everson's threads for that idea).

    As a caveat, I have yet to drive it so can't attest to how well it all works. I have GT brakes all around so all the parts should match.

    Booster
    CFranks, did you have to move the inner fender liner forward to make room for the larger master cylinder?
    Thanks
    FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.

  41. #39
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walt View Post
    CFranks, did you have to move the inner fender liner forward to make room for the larger master cylinder?
    Thanks
    Not CFranks (...) but I'll respond since I installed one of those too. Not really practical to move the splash guard. Common solution is to cut a clearance hole. Only sticks through an inch or less. Then attach some kind of cover to the splash guard if you prefer. Ask Jeff Kleiner about the official dog bowl mod. Another of his innovations.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  42. #40
    Senior Member CFranks's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Not CFranks (...) but I'll respond since I installed one of those too. Not really practical to move the splash guard. Common solution is to cut a clearance hole. Only sticks through an inch or less. Then attach some kind of cover to the splash guard if you prefer. Ask Jeff Kleiner about the official dog bowl mod. Another of his innovations.
    Hi, I did exactly what EdwardB said. Drilled about a 2.5 inch hole in the splash panel and used Kleiner’s “Fluffy’s Bowl” mod. (Rivet a little cat bowl to cover up the opposite side of the hole)
    MK IV Roadster #7999
    Ford Racing 427x; QF 670 Carb; TKO 600; 3.31 Rear End; 3-link; 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Khumo Ecstas (245 front, 315 rear), EPAS Power Steering; Power Brakes; 8/1/19 - Legal in gelcoat!; 12/1/20 - Paint & bodywork in progress! Silver, no black, no red, wait now silver....

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