Looking for a Recommendation for 3/8th fragola braided stainless fuel line
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Looking for a Recommendation for 3/8th fragola braided stainless fuel line
Battery cable cutters. Seriously. Works great.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
from the fragola site
Cutting the Fragola Performance Systems Series 3000/6000 stainless braided hose is easy. Wrap the hose with Gray” or masking tape at the length desired.
Hose may be cut with a hack saw, if you have a 32-teeth-per-inch blade, otherwise a Beverly Shear, radiac, or chop saw will work fine.
You want to keep the braids from fraying. After the cut, carefully remove the tape and trim from the frayed ends if necessary.
I tried tin snips with horrid results (as expected) - I may try my hacksaw first before spending $30-60 on a wire cutter...
sadly my braided cutter I have is only good for up to 5/32 cable...
Tape with duct tape or electrical tape and cut with an angle grinder using a thin cut-off wheel. Been doing this way for years with excellent results.
+1 on battery cable cutter
I used cutters made for electrical cable with great results.
JR
Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Yes, I've cut the SS braided hose with a hack saw in a pinch when the right tool was not available but it's not a very good way to cut hose and a cut off wheel is even worse. But if you go that way, be sure to clean out the interior of the hose of debris. If you're the kind that grabs an adjustable wrench for 90% of your work, you'll probably keep sawing through SS braided hose. But at least be aware there are tools made for this job.
If you're going to work with SS braided hose, use the correct tools. A cable cutter makes a clean cut but most use short handles that will get old after a half-dozen cuts. Here's the tool made for cutting SS braided hose: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-900040 Do yourself a favor and purchase the right tools for the job. Tools are expensive but they are an investment in the hobby or profession you have chosen.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
Ironically I just finished my second batch of PTFE-lined braided stainless hoses last night. These ones were power steering hoses. I used a battery cable cutter, which is a 9” pliers with heavy duty concave jaws arranged just like a typical pair of scissors. They put two tiny kinks in the PTFE liner since the hose gets flattened during the cut, but it opens back up perfectly round with no trouble at all, and no affect on the joint integrity. Fittings attach beautifully. Best part? Takes 1/4 the time to do compared with my previous method, and requires ZERO cleanup.
My fuel lines are the same PTFE-lined hoses, and I did the tape and grinder with thin cutoff disc method. Never again. Cleaning the hose out with Q-tips and rubbing alcohol is slow and annoying. Not to mention I’m still going to have to flush the lines before connecting them to my engine.
Quicker and cleaner cuts with the battery cable pliers. Takes 1 second to make the cut, and you’re adding the fitting immediately after. What more could you ask for?
Logan's Gen 3 Coupe-R Build
Ordered 4/23/19 | Delivered 6/29/19 | First Start 8/1/20 | First Drive 9/20/20
Another vote for using a cutoff wheel. Be sure to clean the lines out after cutting to remove any debris.
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
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I tried the tape/hacksaw method for one end last night, not perfect but got the ferrule seated and tightened the connection
Fragola suggests to wrench down to about 1mm gap - does this one look ok?
IMG_0923.jpg IMG_0924.jpg IMG_0925.jpg
I'll probably try the tape/dremel solution today and compare notes
trying not to buy a $60 cutter for 6 (well now 5) cuts needed
I used push-lock connectors from Fragola, so much different look, but what you are showing looks good. If you can't pull it off the end of the hose, should be good to go.
My Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ter-Build-9754
(Most viewed Roadster build thread on this forum!)
Delivered: 6/17/2017
First Start: 12/30/2017
Completed: 12/7/2019
Legal: 1/30/2020
Member of the Mile-Hi Cobra Club
Dave's Cobra YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbk...npK1UZHj4R-bYQ
Agora 1:8 Scale Cobra Build: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l-Build-Thread
off topic question, but do you know if Fragola PTFE connectors are different than other AN connections? I have a custom length piece of fragola SS braided PTFE fuel line that I got from Forte (ends already attached) that I needed to shorten. I bought a -6AN PTFE fitting online and the ferrule/olive is way too large for the hose. Not sure if Fragola has their own sized connectors that are different than others.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
All mil-spec AN hose & fittings are compatible, but I suspect not all AN hose and fittings are mil-spec. As for PTFE hose and fittings, they are not made to a common standard so you MUST use manufacture specific hose and fittings. You may get lucky and find some compatibility but more likely you will find there is just enough dimensional difference between manufacturers to cause a problem. Also, when using PTFE get the type that is conductive (usually black) as fluids flowing through the PTFE hose will cause static discharge that can damage the hose.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
The cutter that NAZ linked in his post look like what I used and are less expensive. I got mine at Home Depot in the electrical dept.
JR
Mk4 complete kit #9059 ordered 1/19/17 delivered 3/23/17, 2015 IRS, Fortes/DART347,TKO 600, hyd clutch, P/S, 12.88 wilwood brakes front and rear, heater/defrost and vintage gauges
First start and go-cart 4/11/18. Taken To Whitby Motorcars Greensboro, N.C. 2/5/21 for body/paint
Thats true for many of them. Had my own issues over the years too.
Mrk III, 331 stroker, Borla stack injection, T5, 3:55 IRS, Power steering and brakes. Kleiner body & paint
one thing I've read in the fragola content is that the ferrule (olive) isn't re-usable and should be replaced - the screw ends can be re-used many times over..
finally got my first 2ft section installed, once the return line is in - i'll mount both with some clamps, probably on the down-post on the back of the tank
first cut was a hacksaw, 2nd cut was a dremel
IMG_0927.jpg
I'm going to borrow a set of cutters tonight to see if that's any better/easier than the first two
I agree. Back in the 70-80s most any braided hose was from the aircraft industry so most all was interchangeable. But now there are so many different types, different liners, etc that I always buy fittings that are the same brand as the hose. For me the potential downside is just not worth the risk.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
Fragola PTFE fittings use an olive for the seal in their fittings. The olive is a one-time use, the rest of the fitting is reusable, and you can get the olives for relatively cheap. I havent had any trouble using Fragola and Summit PTFE hose ends with Vibrant PTFE line.
For pressure testing hoses, I used this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I use a bicycle pump to pressurize the hose to 80-100 psi, and submerge the fitting under test in a bucket of water. Then I wiggle that fitting every which way I can. You'll quickly dislodge any air bubbles that resulted from dunking the hose, and be able to see if the fitting is leaking at all.
John
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
Told ya.
Glad you see how much faster, easier, and cleaner it is now. Knock the rest of your hoses out now!
Logan's Gen 3 Coupe-R Build
Ordered 4/23/19 | Delivered 6/29/19 | First Start 8/1/20 | First Drive 9/20/20
If you plan to do more work with AN hose, consider buying either an AN hose cutter or a stranded electrical cutter, both are interchangeable but the electrical cable cutters tend to have shorter handles as copper strands are easier to cut than SS. Once you've used the correct tool it's easier to justify the expenditure.
As for pressure testing hose, I don't bother with anything that only sees 300 PSI or so but when you start getting into high pressure hydraulic you may want to invest in a pressure tester that will test to at least the pressure the hoses will see in normal operation (1000 plus PSI typically). For those less expensive testers that use a Shrader valve don't be afraid to go higher than 100 PSI, most air service Schrader valves have a 150 - 300 PSI operating range. And they are available in much higher pressure ratings for hydraulic service. The valve itself is rated higher than those rubber valve stems you normally see them in.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build