We pick up our kit on April 13th, been collecting the necessary parts. Picked Perrin 2” equal length headers and all 4 corners STI hubs, Brembos. I got the exhaust ceramic coated and all the powder coating done for $550. I thought that was pretty reasonable.
Those hubs were crazy rusty hard to breakdown. Then found out that Subaru discontinued the tool $300 anyway required to install the group N bushing I bought for the rear hub to trailing link. Ordered some tubing to try and fab a tool to install the bushing.
Located in Lakeland FL. halfway between Tampa and Orlando. Occasional track car that is registered for those sunny fall and spring days for a spirited drive or two.
Picked up the kit last weekend. 2650 miles round trip 56 hours and 660 dollars in gas and 148 dollars in tolls. Spent the week inventorying and figuring out a storage plan. Built a steel 2x4 frame suspended from the ceiling to hold all the body parts and aluminum. I also got one of those bin racks for the bolts. Started today on modifying the front spindle brackets for STI spindles. Wife got all the splatter off for powder coating. IMG_2198 (1).jpg storage2.jpg storage1.jpg Pam sanding frame.jpg
I will post an inside pic. Basically drilled out the 2 holes they weld the inside bracket on with, inside bracket spacers will fall out. Then the bracket will fit the STI Spindle. I then made a card stock template of the STI splindle as it is a different shape. I then cut out of 3/16 steel 2 new plates for the outside. I lined up the lower holes of my bracket with the supplied bracket kept the outside straight edge of the supplied bracket and my new plates (if anything this might add more camber that can be removed by adjusting the upper A-arms. Welded them on and drilled out the new hole. I then built up the supplied bracket with mig beads until it closely matched my new bracket. I also mig'd up the old holes in the supplied bracket.
Managed to push my self for 14 hours Chassis work in last 2 days with regular work.
I was able to drop off the chassis for powder coating!!!! I completed all my chassis mods. Vraptor Wing mount, Zack's idea of removable engine bracers, Kurks 6 speed frame mod. Wayne's telling me on his 818 he would cover the seat area with 11ga steel plate (5/16 button heads are recessed so it is removeable) and seat mounting points.
With the chassis at the powder coating place it was time to catch up on the motor. It is a 2.5L STI 2006. My son and I installed the Arc Tangent windage tray, Killer B pickup and Killer B pan. We also filled the original holes in the manifold Throttle Body flange and tig welded them up. Then re-drilled the to fit a Subaru BRZ aftermarket DBW 72mm throttlebody manufactured by Grams. I real beautiful piece. The BRZ and the 2006 STI use the same connector and the same wiring to the pins. So basically it is a kinda a drop-in mod. The STI intake needs lots of porting to match the gaskets of the TVG housing. The TVG not so much. That along with opening the intake TB side to 72mm should take care of the intake tract. I have 2" Perrin headers for the exhaust side. I am planning on running a TD06-20g turbo and I have 1000CC injectors.
If you haven't already I recommend the KB Oil Control valve and either the KB or Crawford Ail Oil Separator. That combination with the KB pan/pick up and Arctangent oil Control plate worked flawlessly for me for a lot of track miles.
Ok, It has been about 6 weekends worth of work. We have a roller. No plumbing yet. Hopefully this upcoming weekend we will be installing the engine transmission. I want to thank all you guys and girls for posting I have borrowed or felt more confidence in my approach from all of your posts. Plus thanks to Wayne for answering so quickly on all those posts.
Especially worthy of mention is all the time working out the DA Koni shocks. I was shocked to discover I am the first one to put them on an "R". I also had steering rack issues. Not sure why but my steering rack mount heights are different. I used Craigs "Mechie" rack mount and I needed to cut it and flat and round out the mount stop. My rack on the passenger side would hit the control arm bolt while my driver side had an inch or so clearance. Spent forever getting the seat mount right for ergonomics and broom stick. I also made my own steering wheel mount. Drilled like 600 times in order to make the sides direct 10-32 screw on. Swaybar I know know why no one uses one! It sucks to mount it. I had to make delrin bases for the factory U-clamps. I went with a 13mm front bar and 425# springs in the front and I want an adjustable 10mm bar with 500# springs in the back. I also went with a Tilton 600 throttle pedal and it mounts awesome because it looks like it was designed to bolt to the end of the wilwood set and it is just right to take up the clearance of one of the supplied spacers. Please ask if you want to see something I have pics of most everything. I love the Milwaukee cordless riveter. I painted all body parts with a Direct to Metal 2 part EPOXY primer then top coated with grey or black wrinkle spray. The great thing about this is primer is 30 min till dry and the I would use an electric heater to cure the wrinkle coat. So, any part can be painted and installed in an hour or so. No waiting. That combo has turned out to be "VERY" durable. Copied Mechie Zero Decible radiator mounts but had to hand make them as I am sans mill and lathe, but I have a TIG so my spacer is welded on. IMG_2396.jpg IMG_2297.jpg IMG_2324.jpg steering bracket (2).jpeg IMG_2346.jpg IMG_2276.jpg IMG_2270.jpg IMG_2328.jpg IMG_2384.jpg IMG_2373.jpg
So delinquent posting. I have taken pics along the way. This weekend ran hard lines for the intercooler water and built 2 mounts, one for the intercooler pump and one for the oil filter. The motor is in, I ended up raising it about 1/2 at the front mounts because my Killer B oil pan was the lowest part. That cured that problem. I used a 1/2 spiral machine reamer $20 of amazon and with a drill I made all the stock bushing and frame holes exactly 1/2. Worked great all the bolts are same size and their is no slop. I think I am the first person to use the Koni DA shocks. They didn't fit at all. I had to grind the shock, the frame you name it. I drilled new holes up higher and more inside for the top shock mounts. These shocks are 16" long. I also added tender springs and dividers. With this car so light and using a 500# spring I cant see how a tender is not absolutely required to stop the spring from backing around when the suspension extends. Mounted the drivers seat, firewall and figured out FIA legal seatbelt anchors. I also ran all the fuel lines and installed a surge tank and pump. Main radiator lines are run.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
Thanks for posting the pictures and info on the shocks. I ran dual-adjustable Koni's on my Roadster many years ago, replacing the OEM Pro Shocks that came with the kit. They worked fantastic, especially on the track. Yours look like an improved model.
My Roadster was similar in weight to what most 818's will weigh, and roughly 50/50 weight distribution. I can't remember what spring rates I ran, but I want to say in the neighborhood of 550-450. The suspension worked well, but you are right - with those heavy springs, suspension travel is minimal, and the springs only compressed less than an inch from the weight of the car. The tenders are a good call.
Interested to hear about how it works, what you think of the shocks, and spring rates.
I also plan on running a front and rear sway bar. I find it the easiest way to adjust under/over steer. Right now I have the 13mm in the front and I am gonna start out with and adjustable 17 mm in the rear.
I'm planning on front and rear sway bars, too. Do you have a ballpark on spring rates you are targeting for the bars?
I made NASCAR-style splined bars for my Roadster. Lots of adjustment. That's my rough plan for the 818, too, but need to figure out placement. On the roadster they tightened up the car a lot - made it feel a little easier to control.
No, I need to work out the install location in the rear. My plan is to add a bunch of holes. Balance (over under steer) the car front to rear using the rear sway holes. Once I am balanced front to rear I will start evaluating spring rates.
My front bar is connected. One of the first tests I was going to run once I had a baseline would have been to disconnect it. Then the trans came apart.
As soon as I get it back on track I'll do another baseline then disconnect it. Most of the guys running Rs I think have either disconnected theirs or never installed it (per the R manual).
Last edited by Sgt.Gator; 07-26-2019 at 10:05 AM.
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
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818R ICSCC SPM
2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
I noticed most don’t run them but I'm wondering if that is responsible for the really high spring rates. My goal is to have suspension with an adjustable range so that I can adjust it to soft bottom on the worse bump on the track. My first clue to problem was the recommended compression and rebound settings being max soft. Too me that says the shocks need revolving? I have no experience with cars this light so I may just be out to lunch. A supple suspension provides better traction in rough areas, a little squat can go along way.
I actually wasn't aware FFR was offering the DA shocks for the 818. Looks like they don't list them on their part site anymore. Not trying to slam FFR here, but I would not expect those shocks to be right for the 818 out of the box. Probably best to see if you can get hold of a Koni tech and go over the specs of the car with them. They felt good on the Cobra, and the car was more controllable after I installed them, but that was all going off my own seat-of-the-pants feel, and I'm certainly not experienced enough to evaluate a shock by feel. The dimensions (stroke, max extended length) of the DA shocks for the Cobra/Roadster was not ideal either. They allowed the front suspension to droop far too low when jacking the car up. I made some small cable restraints to limit the travel.
I actually wasn't aware FFR was offering the DA shocks for the 818. Looks like they don't list them on their part site anymore. Not trying to slam FFR here, but I would not expect those shocks to be right for the 818 out of the box. Probably best to see if you can get hold of a Koni tech and go over the specs of the car with them. They felt good on the Cobra, and the car was more controllable after I installed them, but that was all going off my own seat-of-the-pants feel, and I'm certainly not experienced enough to evaluate a shock by feel. The dimensions (stroke, max extended length) of the DA shocks for the Cobra/Roadster was not ideal either. They allowed the front suspension to droop far too low when jacking the car up. I made some small cable restraints to limit the travel.
I did check the shock is shorter than the bind point on the ball joints when full extended and fully compressed. Not by much mind you.
This weekend not much done but installed the filter mount and plumbed the oil system and made a mount for the Accusump electric valve and pressure switch. IMG_2511.jpg IMG_2510.jpg IMG_2512.jpg
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
Wife and I installed the new Drive Shaft Shop axles supposedly good for 850hp. The price ended up at $1040 including shipping and they have the optional high temp grease and vented boots for endurance. I also ran all the brake lines and Alf the clutch. I needed some hydraulic fitting to finish the clutch line. I also need to secure the lines. I installed 2 2psi check valves to stop the pad from traveling on there own. I ran the rear brakes and cutch lines down the middle. 45EDD3C4-8547-4D72-A156-5E2B31FC4135.jpg CAD28770-95FF-4728-AF70-17FB30686100.jpg 8428AD2B-8449-423E-8E2F-EBACE48A0B79.jpeg
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).