Very Cool Parts

Visit our community sponsor

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Dash Wiring loose ends

  1. #1
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mandeville, LA
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like

    Dash Wiring loose ends

    I did a post search and many were 4-5 years old with different gauge setups. Please help if you have the time. I have the autometer gauges and RF harness.

    1. There is a red speed-clock-mem wire going near the speedo. The only pole I have left on the speedo is labeled "out". Does it go here?

    2. I have a brown gage send wire by the speedo. I'm assuming this is another 12 volt feed, but I made the feed wire with the 4 7" and 2 12" red wires. I'm assuming the 2 12" went to feed the speedo and tach and hooked those in. Is this just an extra feed?

    3. There are 2 speed sensor wires. 1 green and 1 grey. I plugged the green on into speedo. What is the grey one for?

    4. There is a red speed-clock-mem wire going by the 5 gage cluster. I'm assuming this isn't used because I don't have a clock.

    Thanks for the help

  2. #2
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Fairfax Station VA
    Posts
    1,229
    Post Thanks / Like
    Which gauge set & is your speedo GPS- or transmission sensor-driven?

    If you're using the F5 classic (Speed Hut) gauges and the speedo is GPS-driven, then for #3 you don't need the green wire going to the speedo. If you're using the F5 classic gauges and the speedo is transmission sensor-driven and the transmission is a T5, then leave the green connected to the speedo and ground the grey.


    John
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 03-06-2019 at 02:12 PM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  3. #3
    Senior Member frankb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Marana, AZ
    Posts
    328
    Post Thanks / Like
    Joensy:

    I will take a stab at your questions...

    1. There is a red speed-clock-mem wire going near the speedo. The only pole I have left on the speedo is labeled "out". Does it go here?

    2. I have a brown gage send wire by the speedo. I'm assuming this is another 12 volt feed, but I made the feed wire with the 4 7" and 2 12" red wires. I'm assuming the 2 12" went to feed the speedo and tach and hooked those in. Is this just an extra feed?

    3. There are 2 speed sensor wires. 1 green and 1 grey. I plugged the green on into speedo. What is the grey one for?

    4. There is a red speed-clock-mem wire going by the 5 gage cluster. I'm assuming this isn't used because I don't have a clock.
    1. No. The "out" terminal on the speedo is speed signal to your ECM. The "speed-clock-mem" wire is constant (unswitched) +12v

    2. Correct. This is an extension of the "gauge feed" you looped from your 5-gauge cluster.

    3. Check the documentation on your speed sending unit on the transmission. The answer should be there.

    4. Correct. Unless you have a clock or radio that has a memory, this is not used.

    Hope this helps!
    FFR MK4 #8317, 393 Cleveland, Lunati VooDoo solid roller, CHI 3V heads and intake, TKO 600, Std roadster seats, 8.8 3.55 diff, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, Ford "Magnetic Metallic", silver ghost stripe. (Sold 10/16/21)

  4. #4
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Tybee Island, GA
    Posts
    505
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by hjoensy View Post
    3. There are 2 speed sensor wires. 1 green and 1 grey. I plugged the green on into speedo. What is the grey one for?
    John is a good source on this subject. I used a mechanical speedo, but my notes show that the grey wire is labeled, "GREY - EFI SPEEDO SIGNAL RETURN" so the grey going to your speedo pole labeled "out" may be the answer.
    Last edited by DadofThree; 03-06-2019 at 09:34 AM.
    Dave
    Mk 3.1 - #6882 - 5.0L 302 - FiTech EFI - 3-Link - 3.08 Ratio - 15" Wheels
    Greenhorn and doing the best I can
    My photos are at: My Flickr acct
    Videos are at: YouTube Videos

  5. #5
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mandeville, LA
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    I have the auto meter gauges. The instructions do not say anything about gps, so I’m assuming they are sensor driven.

    I have a new TKO 600 transmission

  6. #6
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    10,547
    Post Thanks / Like
    I haven't installed Autometer gauges. But for the other non-GPS brands I've installed (Classic Instruments, Speedhut) the two speed sensor wires are signal and ground. As I recall, it doesn't matter which is which. The signal is an AC sine wave. Your speedo should have separate power (12V) and ground wires. Also, on the TKO, suggested you use the built-in sensor on the right side and put a metal cover over the mechanical sensor port on the left side. If it didn't come with one. If there's only a rubber plug, that's just for shipping and it needs an actual metal cover. Available from multiple sources.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  7. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mandeville, LA
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    Almost done wiring and I’ve spent too much time on the blinkers. I have the Russ Thompson setup. I get a signal at the blinkers wires, but it is constant. Changed the flasher and it is still the same. Any ideas?

  8. #8
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Lake Orion, Michigan
    Posts
    10,547
    Post Thanks / Like
    Do you have turn signal lights installed? A standard mechanical/thermal style automotive flasher requires current in order to switch on and off. Without lights drawing current, it will only go on and won't flash. Slightly off topic, but if you're planning to convert to LED lights, they too don't typically draw enough current for the standard flasher. You would need to switch to a solid state style flasher.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  9. #9
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mandeville, LA
    Posts
    24
    Post Thanks / Like
    I do not. I was trying to test all the electrical connections before putting the body on. I was trying it with one of the dash indicator lights. I’ll try with the full assembly tomorrow. Thanks as always for the help edwardb.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Brown County Customs

Visit our community sponsor