Dash covering and fasteners for glove box questions

[Yama-Bro]

Hi Guys,

I'm starting to give some thought to my dash and glove box. I'm going to design my own shallow glove box to work with the heater. It's most likely going to be 3D printed. I've been contemplating the fasteners that hold the glove box to the dash and I'm wondering how much of a fastener's head will show once the dash is covered with the padded FFR vinyl. Would a rivet head show? How about a "flush" mount press in stud? Keep in the mind the flush mount studs aren't completely flush. More like low profile. Here's something similar to what I was thinking about...Here. Or would it be better to use a flat head screw and counter sink the dash? I realize there's not a lot of dash material to countersink. It would be really nice to use something like the press in studs so that I could remove the glove box without removing the dash padding. I'm also considering doing the double layer of aluminum sheet for the dash, like some others have done. That could give me a few more options for fastening. For those of you that have done the dual layer dashes, what have you done to connect the two pieces together?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Frank

[JETAV8R]

There are flush head rivits. You would either need to dimple or countersink the dash.

[edwardb]

Whatever you do, come up with your mounting method to be completely flush, e.g. dead flat. Anything else will print through. High or low. Even with the padded dash. Lots of examples to prove that and guys that were maybe a little surprised. Since it's basically a one and done process (e.g. not expecting to take the glovebox off after everything is finally assembled) I've used flat head screws. On my Coupe build, I used these 6-32 screws from McMaster. https://www.mcmaster.com/90471a210. They're a flatter countersink than normal (100 degrees) so work OK in the thinner material. If you don't have a 100 degree countersink, of course McMaster has those too. Then I used push nuts like these https://www.mcmaster.com/90528a111 except they were available at our local Ace. With the countersink cut to where the head of the screw was just below the surface, JB Welded them in plus used the JB Weld as a filler and sanded dead flat. The push nut plus epoxy holds them in OK through final assembly. Just treat them gently. The push nuts are flat enough they can stay and the dash box fits over them. All a little harder to explain than to do, but this has worked for me on several builds.

[Yama-Bro]

Whatever you do, come up with your mounting method to be completely flush, e.g. dead flat. Anything else will print through. High or low. Even with the padded dash.

That's what I was worried about. Glad I asked.

I've used flat head screws. On my Coupe build, I used these 6-32 screws from McMaster. https://www.mcmaster.com/90471a210. They're a flatter countersink than normal (100 degrees) so work OK in the thinner material. If you don't have a 100 degree countersink, of course McMaster has those too. Then I used push nuts like these https://www.mcmaster.com/90528a111 except they were available at our local Ace. With the countersink cut to where the head of the screw was just below the surface, JB Welded them in plus used the JB Weld as a filler and sanded dead flat.

Is this also how you attached your two layers of the dash together in your roadster builds?

I wanted to make my box removable since it's going to be 3D printed, I'm not sure how well it will hold up. I'm relatively sure I can design it in a way that it won't break, but just in case it does, I want to be able to take it out.

[Fixit]

Take a look here for the work detailing my glovebox. Scroll down for part 2.
#9365 is using a heater, so I had to make my own.

[edwardb]

Is this also how you attached your two layers of the dash together in your roadster builds?

I started with the two pieces attached together with contact cement. But once the dash was done, there are multiple things holding it together, e.g. gauges, switches, steering column bezel screws, the glovebox screws, the mounting brackets I put along the top edge, etc.

[Yama-Bro]

I started with the two pieces attached together with contact cement. But once the dash was done, there are multiple things holding it together, e.g. gauges, switches, steering column bezel screws, the glovebox screws, the mounting brackets I put along the top edge, etc.

Got it. Thanks! I've drove a couple factory five roadsters. The last one I drove I noticed the dash was fairly flimsy around the key switch. It may have been that way in other areas, but I didn't want to poke around on it. I really want to avoid that. I'm not sure if they braced it or not. I'm sure that would help to.

[Yama-Bro]

Take a look here for the work detailing my glovebox. Scroll down for part 2.
#9365 is using a heater, so I had to make my own.

I remember reading your build thread and looking at the pictures of the dash/glovebox and thinking that I need to remember this thread when I get to this point. Well, I forgot. Thanks for reminding me! Your build thread has some great step by step type instructions.

[Ducky2009]

I added a 2 1/4" push-out on the heater to allow more room for a deeper glove box. See pic. I made the glove box via welding aluminum. You could accomplish the same riveting it together. I also made a competition dash and new firewall from 3/32" thick aluminum, so it would be stiffer them the FFR dash. I made a tool to form a countersink shape, not countersunk with a cutting tool. See pics in my library. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1073

As Paul said, every imperfection (high or low fastener) will show. You also might consider using an 1/8" padding. Check out "Closed Cell 2A Volara Foam Landau Padding", 1/8" thick", from Headliner Magic, http://www.headlinermagic.com and leather for a dash cover. Got my leather from Tandy Leather for about $100. Much nicer look. Just a suggestion.

NOTE: I have extra 1/8" padding if you want some. Just pad for shipping. Shouldn't cost much.

[BadAsp427]

Hi Guys,

I'm starting to give some thought to my dash and glove box. I'm going to design my own shallow glove box to work with the heater. It's most likely going to be 3D printed. I've been contemplating the fasteners that hold the glove box to the dash and I'm wondering how much of a fastener's head will show once the dash is covered with the padded FFR vinyl. Would a rivet head show? How about a "flush" mount press in stud? Keep in the mind the flush mount studs aren't completely flush. More like low profile. Here's something similar to what I was thinking about...Here. Or would it be better to use a flat head screw and counter sink the dash? I realize there's not a lot of dash material to countersink. It would be really nice to use something like the press in studs so that I could remove the glove box without removing the dash padding. I'm also considering doing the double layer of aluminum sheet for the dash, like some others have done. That could give me a few more options for fastening. For those of you that have done the dual layer dashes, what have you done to connect the two pieces together?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Frank

Here is what I did with my glove box. I started with the FF Padded Dash with Glove Box so not sure how this relates, but may give you an idea or two to work from. CLICK HERE for my build thread post.

[CDXXVII]

Here is my dash and glove box. Made my own glove box. I also did the firewall forward mod so I have a lot of space.

Fasteners for the glove box. 6-32 flat head 100 degree screws held in place with #6 Tinnerman nut, then the glove box is attached after finish covering with standard 6-32 hex nuts. The hinges are from McMaster Carr. I can look for the part number if you want.

[Yama-Bro]

I added a 2 1/4" push-out on the heater to allow more room for a deeper glove box. See pic. I made the glove box via welding aluminum. You could accomplish the same riveting it together. I also made a competition dash and new firewall from 3/32" thick aluminum, so it would be stiffer them the FFR dash. I made a tool to form a countersink shape, not countersunk with a cutting tool. See pics in my library. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=1073

As Paul said, every imperfection (high or low fastener) will show. You also might consider using an 1/8" padding. Check out "Closed Cell 2A Volara Foam Landau Padding", 1/8" thick", from Headliner Magic, http://www.headlinermagic.com and leather for a dash cover. Got my leather from Tandy Leather for about $100. Much nicer look. Just a suggestion.

NOTE: I have extra 1/8" padding if you want some. Just pad for shipping. Shouldn't cost much.

Thanks Ducky, I may take you up on the padding offer. I'm not 100% sure which way I'll go yet on the dash padding, but I could always pass it onto someone else if I don't use it.

[Yama-Bro]

Here is what I did with my glove box. I started with the FF Padded Dash with Glove Box so not sure how this relates, but may give you an idea or two to work from. CLICK HERE for my build thread post.

That's a little different than what I'm thinking but it is giving me some ideas. Thanks!

[Yama-Bro]

Here is my dash and glove box. Made my own glove box. I also did the firewall forward mod so I have a lot of space.

Fasteners for the glove box. 6-32 flat head 100 degree screws held in place with #6 Tinnerman nut, then the glove box is attached after finish covering with standard 6-32 hex nuts. The hinges are from McMaster Carr. I can look for the part number if you want.

I think this is probably what I'll end up doing, but with a 3D printed box. If you wouldn't mind, could you post up the hinge part number? How did you make the door? I love your dash layout. That's about what I'm planning to do. Do you have a heater? Where did you get the switches that you are using?