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Thread: Cliff's 33 Hot Rod Build in Virginia

  1. #81
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    I used the mount supplied by FFR, made a few mods to it and added spacers.

    DSCN1586.JPG
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  2. #82
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    Be sure to set your drive line angle before you do any cutting on the exhaust. I used a GM transmission mount from Summit and had to shim it about 1 1/4 inches (aluminum 1/4" shims) to achieve the proper angle.
    Yes I just checked and the angle is the wrong way (UP). So you have the mounting plate that attaches to the frame in the "U" position. Then added the inch and a quarter of shims?

    My mounting plate is in the "n" position and I know I need to change it.

    What is the distance between the floor and the bottom of the transmission tail shaft? I need a good reference. Thanks for your suggestion.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

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  4. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by colsen23153 View Post
    Yes I just checked and the angle is the wrong way (UP). So you have the mounting plate that attaches to the frame in the "U" position. Then added the inch and a quarter of shims?

    My mounting plate is in the "n" position and I know I need to change it.

    What is the distance between the floor and the bottom of the transmission tail shaft? I need a good reference. Thanks for your suggestion.
    All of that is covered up now but here are some pictures I found.IMG_1328.JPGIMG_1329.JPGIMG_1146.JPGIMG_1148.JPG
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

  5. #84
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    I had a piece of aluminum block cut to the correct height and size and installed it between the transmission and the bracket supplied by FFR to shim it up to where it was needed, I also used longer bolts as well.
    20180303_170738.jpg
    Black & Copper ("The Mistress" as per my wife! ) #1028
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, Plated & on the Road: ??? 2019??
    Andreas

  6. #85
    Senior Member TxMike64's Avatar
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    There's an easier, known fix.... Use FSB motor/trans mounts and that Windsor will slide right in! Sorry - a little F vs. Ch ribbing....

    Man it sucks you're stuggling, but between the guys on this forum and F5 you should be able to get this to work. Maybe it's an unknown Gen2 chassis issue because they changed the floor structure? Are you stuck with the 700R4?

    Good luck! Don't get discouraged!
    -- Mike --
    TxMike64
    TxM Garage

  7. #86
    Member Mrallsport32's Avatar
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    Last edited by Mrallsport32; 07-16-2019 at 05:42 PM.
    Gen 2 chassis #1121 delivered 2-10-19. SBC 400 with FI Tech dual quad, 700R4 trans and IRS.

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  9. #87
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TxMike64 View Post
    There's an easier, known fix.... Use FSB motor/trans mounts and that Windsor will slide right in! Sorry - a little F vs. Ch ribbing....

    Man it sucks you're stuggling, but between the guys on this forum and F5 you should be able to get this to work. Maybe it's an unknown Gen2 chassis issue because they changed the floor structure? Are you stuck with the 700R4?

    Good luck! Don't get discouraged!
    Yes I am stuck with the 700 R4. I bought the 383 and trans from BluePrint. It's a TCI trans and I understand it's a great transmission for a hot rod.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  10. #88
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrallsport32 View Post
    Yes. Thank you for your pictures. I see the Ford Trans mount with spacers then the black adapter plate. I like the height of the trans tail shaft.

    UPDATE: Today I got a call from Factory Five. I sent them the pictures I have here and explained what I have tried and what got the exhaust on but the drive shaft won't go on, and other issues. They took that all to engineering and I was told they are going to make a adaptor for me to use to fix my problem. I should be able to bolt up the exhaust and have clearance for the drive shaft. I should have it in a few days or a week. Apparently they monitor the forum and can see the problems I am encountering. Since many of you have chimed in with what you have had to do and with the pie cuts that they are looking into it. So that is on hold and I'm moving on to the body portion of the build. Fingers crossed.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 07-23-2019 at 07:20 PM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

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  12. #89
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrallsport32 View Post
    I set my trans mount as you have it. The driveshaft universal joint clears the floor ok. I like it this way and it is going to stay this way. The motor is almost level with just a tad down in the back. Much better then before.

    UPDATE: I got some POLs today that I have been waiting a long time for. BUT the steering wheel is set up for an adapter with 9 mounting holes. The one on the car has 6. The center opening goes around the adapter. I sent pictures to FFR Tech. No response as of tonight.
    I'm still waiting for my correct drive shaft and the exhaust fix that they said they were making. Priorities!
    I'm going to the beach tomorrow for a week for a needed rest from all this drama. I have made up my mind that when I come back I will work thru these issues and get that car on the road next month. We shall see.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  13. #90
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    I received the correct steering wheel from FFR. They want the other back. Turns out it was for the truck.
    The exhaust fix is not ready. they said it will go after the header connection. We shall see. I asked them if the fix would replace the shorty pipes so I could cut them up and make something that will work. They said to keep them.

    Just came back from the beach today and already working on the car this afternoon. We will see what comes up this week as I have a lot of Dr. Appointments to go to.

    Body has to come off again. Still not flush at the sides. I'm working on the seat brackets. With the body off I'll go kart it to adjust the brakes. The neighbors might not like it without the mufflers.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 08-05-2019 at 11:15 AM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

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  15. #91
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    I was trying to install the heater A/C unit. The instruction are wrong as far as where to mount the unit and the center to center distance of the line fitting holes. The problem is that the evaporator is too far to the right. When you drill the holes for the line fittings in the fire wall the ones for the A/C hit the fan. There isn't much room for the heater hose either. I gave up tonight but tomorrow I'll tackle it with a fresh start and see what will make it work.

    I'm also working with my son on some brackets for the seats. I'm using a suggestion from some one on Facebook. Should work fine.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 08-07-2019 at 08:18 PM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  16. #92
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    Are you using the Vintage Air AC/Heater?
    I didn't have any problems mounting it where my manual showed.
    The 4 bulkhead fitting go down below the Vintage Air in the footwell area.
    Maybe you have a Gen 2? Don't think that part of the chassis would have changed.
    Can you post a pic?
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  17. #93
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    I think FFR has changed to a different Vintage Air unit for the gen 2. There are new instructions on their web site. I haven't encountered any problems with the older unit yet either.
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

  18. #94
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    I just looked at the same link I used when I installed mine, there is a different unit shown now, page 32. It looks smaller that the one that came with my car.
    The bulkhead connections are up top on the firewall now.
    You could put those connections anywhere you want, just need to use longer hoses, or move the heater box over more to the center.
    https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-conte...ck-Hot-Rod.pdf
    Last edited by JimLev; 08-08-2019 at 08:10 AM.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  19. #95
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    I don't know if I have a Vintage Air AC/Heater. Nothing on it says that. It says Siroco? I have already drilled the fire wall where the instructions said not down below. Here are some pictures I took explaining to FFR Tec what the problem was. 100_2313.JPG 100_2314.JPG 100_2315.JPG 100_2316.JPG 100_2319.JPG

    You can see that the fitting for the AC is blocked by the fan housing. Does the unit for the gen 1 say Vintage Air?

    Tec was no help. They called the evaporator the condenser and vice versa.

    I will run the car without heat and A/C until if moving the evaporator over left fixes it or I can get some good answers.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

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  21. #96
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Yes, the unit I got is clearly identified as a Vintage Air. This unit...
    https://www.vintageair.com/builder-s...%20II%20Compac

    Maybe they've changed away from Vintage. I was just looking at the instructions page of the FFR web site and noticed that the file name for the A/C installation instructions say it's for the truck. Maybe there is a different set for the 33? Perhaps you keep the bulkhead/firewall fittings in the same location as done in gen1?
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  23. #97
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Yes, the unit I got is clearly identified as a Vintage Air. This unit...
    https://www.vintageair.com/builder-s...%20II%20Compac

    Maybe they've changed away from Vintage. I was just looking at the instructions page of the FFR web site and noticed that the file name for the A/C installation instructions say it's for the truck. Maybe there is a different set for the 33? Perhaps you keep the bulkhead/firewall fittings in the same location as done in gen1?
    I already drilled the holes in the fire wall. I think the instructions are for the hot rod also. I'm going to move the unit over for clearance and order different fittings for the heater hoses.

    FFR Trch confirmed they did change the unit. Possibly that is why the dimensions don't match up with the new unit.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 08-08-2019 at 06:52 PM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

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  25. #98
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    I received my correct drive shaft from FFR mentioned way back. It finally came in and is the correct length. The fix for the exhaust hasn't come in yet. I can't wait so I bought some ball and socket pipes that I will use with some flex pipe until FFR comes through with the fix. I should be able to go kart in the next week and get the rest of my build on track. I have to put in the gas peddle in and the transmission mount.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 08-11-2019 at 10:10 AM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

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  27. #99
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    I was notified by FFR that the exhaust fix has been cut and will be on it's way tomorrow. I sent the whole day trying to install temporary exhaust. Drivers side went in but couldn't get the proper bend in the header extension for the passenger side. I'll take it all out waiting for the parts to come in.

    I installed the accelerator pedal. What have you done to shorten the cable? I cut most of it out and ran both ends inside a vacuum hose or fuel hose. Looks good but you have to be very careful with everything in that area of the car. The fuse panel, steering wiring. It's hard to find a safe place.

    I might put the evaporator back in moved over while I wait for the exhaust fix to come in.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

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  29. #100
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    Wow, FFR actually told you ahead of time that something was going to come? Any time they sent me something on the POL all I got was the fedex notification that something was on the way. I had no idea what it was going to be until it showed up....
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

  30. #101
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    You can just call them anytime and check. They have always been friendly about answering POL questions.
    - Peter

    Peterh226. #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019.
    YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
    AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10

  31. #102
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FF33rod View Post
    Wow, FFR actually told you ahead of time that something was going to come? Any time they sent me something on the POL all I got was the fedex notification that something was on the way. I had no idea what it was going to be until it showed up....
    FFR has been working with me for a while now on the exhaust problem. I have tried everything they have asked and then some. They said some time ago that they would work up a "fix" in engineering. This is what they are sending not items on my POL.( I think they have sent everything on my POL now). When this comes in I hope it fixes the exhaust problem.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  32. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by colsen23153 View Post
    FFR has been working with me for a while now on the exhaust problem. I have tried everything they have asked and then some. They said some time ago that they would work up a "fix" in engineering. This is what they are sending not items on my POL.( I think they have sent everything on my POL now). When this comes in I hope it fixes the exhaust problem.
    Good luck. I had the same issues on the drivers side of my LS install. I finally modified the shorty pipe myself.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

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  34. #104
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    I got the "fix" from FFR today. It was nothing more them another set of 3 bolt flanges that go on the header. They were not tapered as I thought. Their idea was to get the shorty pipes lower. It did help the drivers side but not the passenger side. The small block Chevrolet has to be mounted 1/2" towards the back for clearance of the crank pulley and the steering rack. That automatically puts the right header almost blocked by a tube from the frame. By putting a spacer there it only makes matters worst. With everything bolted as tight as I could I still had an exhaust leak there.

    I should have done this next thing a month and a half ago. Tomorrow I am taking that spacer out of the passenger side and put a pie cut to angle the pipe towards the motor and another cut to angle it down to meet the S pipe. I'll make one cut in the drivers side just to angle it down. I found some one to tig weld it back together. Hope to have it done by Monday night.

    8/17
    100_2328.JPG 100_2329.JPG

    Now to get them cleaned up and welded.

    8/19
    Went to the welder. He tacked them and suggested I trial fit them. Passenger side was off a bit. fixed that. The drivers side, which was the best, was the worst. Had to redo it two times. They are at the welder to be finished.

    8/21
    Welded pipes are back. I am using the spacers given by FFR as the fix on both sides. The passenger side is good. The driver side hangs the muffler too low. My fault for trying to make it perfect and went too far. My son said he can heat them up and bend them the rest of the way. That's for tomorrow. I'm also going to look up a A/C company that will crimp the hoses and try to get some fittings that will work with this new model A/C unit. The directions don't work with the equipment given. New supplier and the unit is bigger. Thanks FFR.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 08-21-2019 at 06:49 PM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  35. #105
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Last night my son came over with the shorty exhaust pipe he heated and bent for the drivers side. The muffler was hanging down too much. It's OK now so I was able to get the car out of the garage to run the engine long enough to get it to the operating temperature. 100_2335.JPG The thermostat opened at about 200 and went down to 180. The temperature rose to 210 without the radiator fan coming on. I have a Holly Sniper EFI controlling the fan. The led display was showing the fan as off. I thought it was to come on at that temperature. I grounded the fan relay and it came on. I changed the wiring to the thermostat on the radiator. I ran the car up and down the driveway but I didn't go hard on it. I still have to adjust the brake biasing.

    Now to finish installing the exhaust option then the seat brackets and try it again Monday.

    UPDATE: Found out the fan should come on about 218 230. I might re-connect the fan control from the EFI with the thermostat on the radiator just to be sure it comes on. Also the EFI might turn on the fan when you turn on the AC.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 08-25-2019 at 08:25 AM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  36. #106
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    Looking good! One bite at a time....
    33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
    Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19

    MkI.IV 2643k

  37. #107
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    What a pleasure it is to put parts on the car with out major issues. I bought the exhaust option and putting the pipes on that exit the back went without a hitch. Well maybe a small one. With the SBC you have to set back the motor 1/2". The final exhaust pipe hits the trunk aluminum. Maybe it will be resolved with the final adjustments.

    Installed the neutral safety switch on the Lokar shifter. I have a auto trans so I put the switch where the clutch safety switch would be.

    My shifter is hard to shift. It does shift but it takes more effort then I would think it should. I have adjust it many, many times. Can't get it any better.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 08-26-2019 at 03:38 PM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  38. #108
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Went for a real Go-Kart today. The first try I had a few issues. All fixed now. Since then I lubricated the chassis, bolted in the drivers seat, installed the safety belts and adjusted the toe in. I didn't have a video of the try this time. 100_2335.JPG The brakes were adjusted ok when I installed them. Front locks up just before the rear.

    I did notice that with the seat belts on I could not reach the e-brake and key!!!!!!!!!!!! Any body else have that problem?

    I can't believe the throttle response. Also, without the body on, there isn't any weight on the rear wheels. It's almost impossible to slowly feed on the gas. Just a slight touch and the rear wheels spin. (My drive way is all gravel.)

    I used a suggestion from some one on Facebook for a seat bracket. I didn't want to bolt the seat to the floor. By using two 1 1/2" "L" brackets tacked together it makes a perfect fitting bracket. 100_2339.JPG 100_2340.JPG

    Now that I have the car at this stage I'll concentrate on getting the body on with the front at the fire wall spacing correctly.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 09-03-2019 at 07:34 PM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

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  40. #109
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by colsen23153 View Post
    I don't know if I have a Vintage Air AC/Heater. Nothing on it says that. It says Siroco? I have already drilled the fire wall where the instructions said not down below. Here are some pictures I took explaining to FFR Tec what the problem was. 100_2313.JPG 100_2314.JPG 100_2315.JPG 100_2316.JPG 100_2319.JPG

    You can see that the fitting for the AC is blocked by the fan housing. Does the unit for the gen 1 say Vintage Air?

    Tec was no help. They called the evaporator the condenser and vice versa.

    I will run the car without heat and A/C until if moving the evaporator over left fixes it or I can get some good answers.
    As mentioned before the evaporator has changed from when the instructions were printed. That's why there was a problem following the directions.

    I have a solution and it is quite simple. Drill the holes in the firewall as in the instructions. Don't put the fittings in the firewall as in the instructions. Instead put the fittings in the firewall as in this picture with the #8 fitting the lowest and outside. 100_2344.JPG Then put the AC fittings on the outside pair. Those straight fittings will now clear the fan housing as in this picture. 100_2342.JPG Then use the heater 90 degree fittings and point them down. Make a loop with the hose and connect them to the heater core as in the previous picture and this picture. 100_2343.JPG Put the clamps on and get the AC lines crimped. Remember to have them crimped with the proper tool for Beadlock fittings.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 09-04-2019 at 06:46 PM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  41. #110
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Today I was working on the AC/Heater wiring. Following the instructions I had to make sure I was dealing with the proper wires. You know the saying "Measure twice, cut once" well the same applies with wiring. As mentioned before, this unit has changed over time and the color codes are not all the same. The two that were not, it didn't matter which way they were connected. I riveted the control panel to the bracket holding the evaporator up just as a temporary way of getting it off the floor. I connected the battery and at least the fan works. I will attach the rest of the hoses tomorrow.
    100_2346.JPG
    Next week I hope to finally put the body on and have it align at the fire wall.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 09-07-2019 at 06:35 PM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  42. #111
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    FFR gives you two choices on how to mount the heater control module. Mount it on the frame or let it hang near the firewall. I was trying to keep the hoses away from the heat from the headers, so I let it hang near the firewall. Now that I ran the rest of the hoses to the engine I am second guessing myself in my decision. 100_2347.JPG

    For a regular car that wouldn't look so bad but for a fully dressed engine I think I made the wrong decision. If you routed the hoses lower what does it look like?
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  43. #112
    Senior Member FF33rod's Avatar
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    I just finished doing mine - AC & heater hoses and heater control valve & AC drier. Really really pleased how it turned out. I'm at work right now but will edit this post to add a picture later. But as a preview, I used tube clamps as the mount mechanism for both the heater valve and the drier. https://www.amazon.ca/House-Tuning-B...gateway&sr=8-1


    EDIT: Here's a pic of what I did, more pics and details on my build thread, pg 3

    IMG_3142a.jpg
    Last edited by FF33rod; 09-09-2019 at 11:56 PM.
    Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
    347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, hydraulic clutch, IRS, Foose 18" Wheels, 245 & 315 BF Goodrich G-Force Rival S tires, DRL, power windows, roadster & hard top, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition

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  45. #113
    Senior Member sethmark's Avatar
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    Cliff,
    I haven’t done the routing yet, but my intention is to run it below the inch and a half bar in the dash. I also intend on keeping everything but the plumbing inside the car.
    33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
    Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19

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  46. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by colsen23153 View Post
    FFR gives you two choices on how to mount the heater control module. Mount it on the frame or let it hang near the firewall. I was trying to keep the hoses away from the heat from the headers, so I let it hang near the firewall. Now that I ran the rest of the hoses to the engine I am second guessing myself in my decision. 100_2347.JPG

    For a regular car that wouldn't look so bad but for a fully dressed engine I think I made the wrong decision. If you routed the hoses lower what does it look like?
    I mounted the heater valve on a bracket under the hood, then ran the hoses as far away from the engine as possible also made some heat shields between them and the headers.

    DSCN3624.JPG

    DSCN3625.JPG
    '33 Hotrod, #1047, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/4L65e, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 245/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18

  47. #115
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
    I mounted the heater valve on a bracket under the hood, then ran the hoses as far away from the engine as possible also made some heat shields between them and the headers.

    DSCN3624.JPG

    DSCN3625.JPG
    I see you have a gen 1 and it shows that the hoses can be on the outside of the round frame rail. I didn't have the body on yet so I couldn't see how far out I could go. I thought it had to all be inside that round rail. Thanks for the pictures and the idea.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  48. #116
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Well I put the body back on the frame again after doing some trimming where the door latch is welded to the frame. It's angled in so I trimmed at an angle 16" to 20.5" up from the bottom on the body. I measured from the firewall outside left to the outside right and got 42 1/2". I measured the body before putting it on and where the firewall would go on both sides its 42 3/4". That's 1/4" difference. so it leaves 1/8" showing on each side. I wonder if the body is supposed to go under the frame at the firewall?

    UPDATE:
    Found out today from FFR that the body does not go under the frame. That means that the body, at the weld joint, at the firewall needs a stretched "V" cut into it to have the sides come in and get that 1/8" reveal. This isn't verified yet and I have not done it yet. Update coming.
    GOPR0782.jpg GOPR0782.jpg

    UPDATE:
    HHR said that's exactly where you need to cut to get the sides up against the firewall. It has been hot the last two days but before the end of the week I'll make thous cuts and get the body finally positioned so I can put the bolts along the lower door jam.

    UPDATE:
    Cut the body as indicated. I could have done a better job but the body was still on the frame and I didn't have much working room. Now the sides come into the lower door frame with room to spare. Now to find out what I'm going to use for the bolts. I'll have to search the forum.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 09-13-2019 at 11:38 AM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  49. #117
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Not much done to show for it but I have been busy cleaning up some items on my to do list. I set the steering wheel straight. I loosened the couplings between the rack and the electric motor. Centered the wheel and reconnected everything. I put the bolts and spacers in the trunk area for securing the body there. I couldn't find the supplied spacers so I had to make a trip to the local HW store. I think I have built this car twice already. It seams that every nut and bolt I put on the car I have to remove it some time later. I decided to run the heater hoses low on the chassis like others have done. To do that I had to order some more fittings. I'll show a picture after I get finished. Now that the body is on I can move on to the doors. I like the idea of the templet on the door hinges. The way they showed us in build school was not a very pleasant experience.

    I ordered and received the upper control arms for the rear. I ordered the car with 3 point rear and again I'm second guessing that. I put the bracket on the rear for the 3 point rear but just don't like it. The top adjusting bar only catches a few threads. That's another job I'll be doing over.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 09-16-2019 at 07:49 PM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  50. #118
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    I tackled putting the screws in the lower door frame to the frame. I decided to drill and tap 10-32 and use flat head screws. They didn't have the black ones I wanted so these will due until I get the black ones. 100_2352.JPG

    I started looking at the doors. I had to read the instructions for a third time before I understood them. I have the hinges in paint today and will start in earnest tomorrow. That's where the Itches come from
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

  51. #119
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    There are some good videos on you-tube for the door install. Four parts if I remember correctly.
    33 Hot Rod Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
    LS3 376/480, 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter,
    Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
    Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires

  52. #120
    Senior Member colsen23153's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HVACMAN View Post
    There are some good videos on you-tube for the door install. Four parts if I remember correctly.
    The videos I found were for Gen 1 and the hardware and procedures are way different. Also a template, worth it's weight in gold, is in the kit to drill the door and body for the hinges. The general information was good and I'll follow that. I like the idea of trimming the door just to "fit" at this point and set the gaps later after it's completely installed. I started today putting the hinges in. Took 3 hours. If that is any indication of how things are going to go I should be working through the night tomorrow night putting in the drivers door.
    Last edited by colsen23153; 09-22-2019 at 12:04 PM.
    '33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.

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