Cliff's 33 Hot Rod Build in Virginia

[colsen23153]

Yesterday FFR received my check so I am the proud owner of a 33 Hot Rod.

Order date 1/23/2019 Date required 3/23/2019. I ordered the complete kit with the optional top and bike fenders.
Stewart Transport is picking it up 3/23/2019 and they said they would call before then to give me an estimate delivery date.
I ordered a Chevy 383 Fuel Injected 430HP with the 700R4 transmission on 1/24/2019 from BluePrint engines. It has been back ordered until late March early April. That seams like a long time but since the kit isn't due by then it's OK with me.
I went to build school 2/15/2019 2/17/2019.

My plan with the 33 is to start out as a roadster with bike fenders. Then get it titled, registered and plates. I'll drive it for a while before putting the hard top on with the electric windows. Do some body work before putting full fenders on and painting it tuxedo black with red pearl.

While waiting for the delivery I have collected some parts I'll need. So far I have a rebuilt 8.8" solid rear with 3.55 gears and disk brakes, e-brake handle with NOS cables, Headers recommended by FFR to fit the SB and tires. I ordered wheels and tires from Summit. American Racing VN405 Custom Torq-Thrust II Polished Wheels 18 X 8 front and 18 X 11 rear. The tires are BFGoodrich g-Force Rival S 1.5 Tires 245/40-18 front 315/30-18 rear. And assorted tools and hardware that I will need for the build.

This is what my build area looks like now.

Shop.JPG
I can't wait to get started.

Cliff

[scottiec]

Congrats Cliff! Where in VA are you? If you are close, happy to check things out and vice versa

[FF33rod]

Congratulations Cliff, you're going to have a ton of fun! I received my kit last November and am happy as heck. I picked those same tires as well, they look great and hopefully I'll enjoy riding on them later this year. Remember, the forum is one of your best resources. I look forward to your build.

Steve

[JimLev]

Congrats, you'll have fun, nice engine too.
The link didn't work.

[HVACMAN]

Congratulations Cliff and welcome to the madness. This journey is one of the most satisfying things I've ever done. I hope yours is as enjoyable.

[JOP33]

Yesterday FFR received my check so I am the proud owner of a 33 Hot Rod.

Order date 1/23/2019 Date required 3/23/2019. I ordered the complete kit with the optional top and bike fenders.
Stewart Transport is picking it up 3/23/2019 and they said they would call before then to give me an estimate delivery date.
I ordered a Chevy 383 Fuel Injected 430HP with the 700R4 transmission on 1/24/2019 from BluePrint engines. It has been back ordered until late March early April. That seams like a long time but since the kit isn't due by then it's OK with me.
I went to build school 2/15/2019 2/17/2019.

I am just over 70, retired with a lot of time on my hands. I have always been in to cars since before I could drive. My first hot rod was a '49 Ford with a Hemi. Since then I have put a Corvette 327 350HP in a '63 Chevrolet SS convertible. I have had a Z28, '69 Super Bee 383 Ram Air and now on my second C6 and many others in between.

My plan with the 33 is to start out as a roadster with bike fenders. Then get it titled, registered and plates. I'll drive it for a while before putting the hard top on with the electric windows. Do some body work before putting full fenders on and painting it tuxedo black.

While waiting for the delivery I have collected some parts I'll need. So far I have a rebuilt 8.8" solid rear with 3.55 gears and disk brakes, e-brake handle with NOS cables, Headers recommended by FFR to fit the SB and tires. I ordered wheels and tires from Summit. American Racing VN405 Custom Torq-Thrust II Polished Wheels 18 X 8 front and 18 X 11 rear. The tires are BFGoodrich g-Force Rival S 1.5 Tires 245/40-18 front 315/30-18 rear. And assorted tools and hardware that I will need for the build.

This is what my build area looks like now.

Shop.JPG
I can't wait to get started.

Cliff

That's a good start already...Congratulations Cliff!

[erlihemi]

Congrats Cliff. One of my Richmond VA. memories is watching Bill Reed and Ronnie Sox make a run down the 1/4 mile there. I made a few down at Dinwiddie myself before it got bigger. Spent some time at the "big gray boat factory" in Newport News and very long ago at Fort Belvoir too. Good luck with the build. Looks like you'll have it done by August!

[sturigus83]

Cliff did you post your build on another site I would like to read it and see what you did . I enjoy reading to see what each and every person does because everyone is different. Please post your site

[colsen23153]

Cliff did you post your build on another site I would like to read it and see what you did . I enjoy reading to see what each and every person does because everyone is different. Please post your site

This IS my build thread. Only here.
One thing I have learned is to have patience. Today I got a call from BluePrint Engines saying my engine and trans are being shipped today. I ordered it 1/24/19. My 33 is due to ship this Saturday. It was ordered 1/23/19. It would be nice if it got loaded last and I am the first stop. I ordered my rims and tires a while ago and received the tires and the front rims. I also got a email that my rear rims have shipped and are due Friday. I have to pick up some more tools and jacks tomorrow.

So it looks that after waiting about two months I might finally get to start my build. I have been reading just about all the build threads on the forum, not just the 33 but all the others. There is a wealth of information out there. I hope that soon I will be able to tell you all about the fun I'm having.
Cliff

[CVOBill]

Congrats on the your new build. Looks like its all coming together.

[colsen23153]

Today was a big learning day to say the least!

My completion date was last Saturday. The day passes and I didn't hear from FFR or Stewart. I was a reck all week end not knowing where my car was. This morning I contacted FFR and found out that the completion date and shipping date are two different dates. Stewart needs to notify FFR when they can come to pick up the car. That's the shipping date. So I contacted Stewart to find out anything and I have not gotten a reply as of yet.

I got a phone call from Fedex confirming the delivery of my motor and trans tomorrow. What I found out from them is it's a lift gate delivery and the driver does not have permission to back down a driveway. So other then having them drop it off in the road in front of my house I had to make arrangements to have it shipped someplace else that had a forklift. That was an additional $150 to change the delivery address. Now I need to borrow a truck to get it from there to here.

And the beat goes on.

Needless to say, I'll be in a much better mood after I finally get everything in my garage and I open the assembly manual to page 1.

[OnlyAndy]

I had same issues you are having now. But they are really quite normal. Stewart was a bit slow at giving answers but not toooo bad. They did pick up my 33' about 2 weeks after it was ready at F5. Then about,,, maybe a bit over a week out here to SoCal. Driver, Scott was outstanding and helped me every step of the way. I worried for no reason. On my engine delivery, had same comments from carrier ( not fedex ). Was tail gate, street only BUT I backed my F150 up to his tail gate and slid the whole unit into my truck without too much hassel. Unloaded it in rear garage with engine hoist.

[HVACMAN]

I know it's frustrating. My second stage was 4 weeks between completion and delivery. As for the engine and transmission, I met the truck driver at a local parking lot about two blocks from the house. He lowered the lift gate even with the tail gate of my truck and we slid it from one to the other.

Good luck. You will be up to your ears in parts before you know it.

[erlihemi]

I often have my FedEx and UPS Freight "held at terminal" and pick it up at my convenience (like driving home from work) unless its bigger than I can get in the pickup. Other freight I also prefer to pick up at terminal like NEMF and YRC. I do have to say Stewart is excellent with delivery. I unloaded mine in a snowstorm with a skid steer!! Driver was awesome as he didn't have the truck with the cool offloading crane or the dolly set up.

[colsen23153]

I received a reply from Todd at Stewart and he said he had to work out his schedule but will pick up the car @ FFR in a "few" weeks. Then schedule a delivery date.

On the motor, If I had more time to work things out I could have had him unload to a trailer then I could use the engine hoist to get it in the garage. I don't have a truck anymore. But I got it worked out and it will be delivered @ my sons work. $150 re routing fee though. I'll have it tomorrow night. One down many to go.

After I found my emails, I found that all this info was in them. That was a few months ago. I guess I'm getting forgetful.

Cliff

[colsen23153]

Well it took a few extra days to get the motor but I finally have it in my garage!
Tomorrow I'll look through some of the boxes that came with it to see what I all have.

Some day I will have to figure out how to attach pictures Edit: These pictures were taken with my iPhone. The rest with a Kodak camera. No matter what I do to the iPhone pictures they all rotate .

[AJT '33]

For the pictures, rotate them in your folder on your computer then the ones you rotated simply rename it and add an extra letter or number (mine are date and time stamped so i just change the 100th of a second by one number), this way the blog won't reject it. Not sure why it rejects it when you rotate it, must be a windows thing.

[colsen23153]

It Has been a while since I last posted. I was having my kit delivered by Stewart and when I asked them when, they said in a couple of weeks or days. Well this is the day that everybody waits for, 100_2093.JPG April 30th, over a month after it was ready to ship.

This is what my garage looked like before 100_2078.JPG and after 100_2113.JPG. I started inventory but the urge was so great I had to put something onto something. So I started on page one this last Monday and it wound up looking like this 100_2124.JPG 100_2123.JPG.

I had the same problems that others have had starting out on a new build from a company that is new to you, Mainly that they might say " attach this to that" and not give you the description of the hardware to use. I found out that the pictures in the manual can be miss leading. The bolt that are on the front A arms has changed. I spent hours looking for the type of bolt used in the pictures and even emailed FFR tech for help only to find out they changed the part.

I have not stopped my inventory. I take a break from assembly and do my due diligence. As you might have noticed, there are no springs on the front shocks. Part of the items that are on back order. I will have the rear installed tomorrow and then work on running the brake lines. I can't wait to install the engine and transmission BUT the motor mounts and transmission mounting plate are on back order! Oh, did I fail to mention that the steering wheel is also on that list.

So when you calculate the time it should take you to complete the build you have to figure in all of the time waiting for parts or paint to dry, or for some one else to do something for you (delivery).

Updates when I get a chance.
Cliff

[peterh226]

I’ve got similar parts on backorder so I’m focusing on the body. Instructions for the Gen2 are a work in progress so ask questions here and call factory five. They’ve been great when I call. The new body also has new instructions especially for the doors. Read the instructions closely as a word (like insert spacer) is easy to miss if only looking at the pictures.
Have fun!

[colsen23153]

Another week has passed by and I have made some great progress. I finished up the front end. Installed the steering column , pedal box and installed the electric power steering and all the linkage. The rear was just installed today with the help of two of my grandsons and son. Because of the powder coating, I had to spread all of the mounting places. It actually went in without a problem. As I say that, I did have a problem putting the upper link bracket on the axle. I could not get it completely on. I know in build school they said it might be. Has anyone else had this same problem and if so how did you get it to seat completely?

I'm currently working on installing the brake lines. I don't know how to get a 60" line bent the way it has to be without cutting it and putting in a union joint. The mounts for the hard line to flex lines were missing so I had to order some from eBay to keep the project moving.

After the brake lines it's time to install the engine and trans. They have been waiting for over a month to get installed. BUT the engine mount and trans plate are on back order. They said not to call FFR for the first 15 days after delivery so Wednesday I'll find out the status of them. I hope it's not long. I still have a list of things to do so it will not be a big problem if I need to wait a week. But after that I'll have to get the engine mounts locally. Can some one that has a 33 HR with a SB Chev take a picture of your mounts. That would help if I need to get some.

I put the firewall in place and holes drilled. I have a noticeable blue half moon on the top piece. Not good! I want the firewall and foot panels mirror polished. I thought of doing it myself but the cost of tools and materials is more than I thought. I am now thinking to have a metal shop do it for me if the price is reasonable. The chrome pieces I found in the boxes for the car are spectacular! So is the rest of the interior pieces. I don't want to go overboard but it has to look good.

It's beginning to look like a car. Next week will be spent cleaning up the brakes and doing as much as I can with the parts I have.

I finished my inventory. No broken pieces but quite a few important parts on back order. I could not resist putting the seats in. I ordered the leather seats and they look really great. My grandson had to try them out.

100_2136.JPG100_2137.JPG100_2138.JPG100_2140.JPGIMG-0270.jpg

[JimLev]

Not sure if this will help you or not as it's an LS3 not a 383.
You should be able to get the mounts from Summit or Jegs.
You'll have to make the triangle plates.

DSCN3307.JPG

DSCN3306.JPG

[colsen23153]

Not sure if this will help you or not as it's an LS3 not a 383.
You should be able to get the mounts from Summit or Jegs.
You'll have to make the triangle plates.

DSCN3307.JPG

DSCN3306.JPG

The engine mount for a LS3 uses 4 bolts to the block. The 350 uses 3 bolts to the block. I think that is correct. Yup just checked 3 bolts on my 383.

I went looking at the pictures I took at build school and found the motor mounts.
100_2016.JPG100_2020.JPG
I'll email FFR Tech tomorrow and see if they can give me a part number for Napa.

Got a reply from Tech @ FFR and the part number to use if you want to buy locally is energy suspension 3.1114G. I priced them and they are about $45 a piece. When I call about my backordered parts I'm going to see if it shipped. If not I'll see if they can give me a credit for the part and I'll buy them here. I'm going to FFR around Thanksgiving to buy some more options anyhow. We shall see.

Thanks for your pictures.

Update 5/15/2019 I called FFR today to check on the status of my back ordered parts. When they transferred me to the shipping department I explained I was checking on the status. The guy almost laughed and without asking me any information said" You wouldn't see any of the parts for another month." That didn't set well with me. I asked if I could get a credit if I bought some parts locally and he transferred me to the sails dept. He said he could only give me a $18 and change credit a piece for the motor mounts. That is better then nothing and I ordered the mounts from Summit. Should have them in a few days. Turns out to about a $55 difference but now I can get the motor in and work on running the lines, wiring, etc to get it running. Better then waiting another month.

I'm very discouraged with all the delays I have had since I placed my order. Maybe when I'm riding down the road in it I'll think back and laugh about it.

[colsen23153]

Well a lot has happened over the last week. I finally got my rear brakes worked out. You can check what happened here https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ont-of-the-car
On Wednesday I called FFR to check on the status of my back ordered parts. They said and I quote "You wouldn't see any of those parts for another month.". That p***** me off. My build has been coming along very quickly and I was at the point of installing the engine. Problem was that my motor mounts were, you guessed it, on back order. I got transferred to sales and asked if they can give me a credit if I purchased the mounts locally. He did and I did. Mounts came in Friday then Saturday late afternoon started to install the engine. I'm putting a small block Chevrolet in my 33. Everyone has said that you have to modify the spacer by 1/2". I did but when installing it it looked not right. So we tried it by adding washers and it still wasn't right. Besides the thru bolt was now too short. Next morning and a trip to Lowes to get some hardware. I tried four times with different combinations of spacers, extra nut, washers and the only way it worked was with the original 1/2" spacer. We weren't tightening up the plates to the frame which made it all look out of wack.

I got the motor/trans from Blue Print Engines all dressed out. But the chain was in the way so off came the distributor, coil, A/C and alternator. 100_2159.JPG Here were the critical points. The trans pan and the frame 100_2161.JPG and the clearance from the crank pulley and the rack and pinion 100_2164.JPG Here is the spaces on the mount 100_2165.JPG
Here it is all decked out again. 100_2168.JPG Blue Print sent me a belt tensioner. Works off mounting bolts on the A/C and alternator 100_2163.JPG way cool!

100_2167.JPG I like headers on any engine.
It's looking more and more like a car every day. 100_2169.JPG Back end with the fuel tank installed this week also. 100_2170.JPG

Next week I'm looking at bending fuel lines. Finishing up the brakes and bleeding them and starting on the wiring of the engine and fuel pump. I have to make a few inquires with Blue Print to find out the timing since I removed the distributor and TCI for some fix for the speedometer hook up.

[Tim_Dust]

Hi Cliff - the build looks like it is going well! I am envious because my kit will not be ready for shipping until late July (at my request).

I am already thinking about the flow of the project, and you seem to be making some choices that I wonder about when I read other forum entries. Namely, mock-ups. First, It looks like you have riveted the firewall in place pretty early on and I wonder if you can comment on this. Regrets? Too soon to tell? Are you planning to get the whole thing built, then tear it down for powder coating parts, then reassembly? (Comments from others on this point are MUCH appreciated.) Also, the dilemma you faced with the motor mounts hits close to home. I will be installing the BluePrint chevy SB 400, and have already noted that the mount will need modifications. If you have the time, I would love to read the details about your overall solution. For example, did you make the triangular plates? From what material?

Thanks in advance! Good luck with your progress!

[peterh226]

We installed a Blueprint 383 at the build school and just played with the spacer around the engine mounts. The crank pulley is REALLY close, but appeared like it would be OK. Harbor Freight has a angle adjuster for the engine hoist and that looks to be work a lot during an install.

[colsen23153]

Tim_Dust

I am retired and had a lot of time on my hands. I decided building the 33 would solve that problem. You can see from my earlier posts that from the time you order your kit until it finally arrives is quite a long time. The anticipation was killing me. There are many ways to go about building a kit. One of the suggestions I heard about was to get your car built but don't wait until your completely finished as in painted and everything. Get it driveable with the unfinished body on it and have some fun with it. Work the bugs out. Go to car shows and auto crosses. Then do the body work, sanding, blocking, sanding, prime and paint. Re do the things that didn't look the way you want. That's the path I have chosen. After I got the kit delivered I spent about 10 to 12 hours a day for the first two and a half weeks. 17 days straight. Now I have backed off to between 4 to 6 hours a day. They estimate between 400 to 800 hours for a build. So I have spent about 200 hours so far.

As far as the firewall, That has to be done before you put the engine in. It's almost impossible to do it after the engine is in. I am going by the assembly manual that I got at build school. You will find out if you skip ahead when you come back again you will find that what you did is now in the way and you have to take it apart.

In the beginning of the manual they list about 6 or 8 parts to powder coat. That is just the beginning. You will find in later steps that other parts should have been on that list. That list isn't half the parts to coat. I was going to powder coat my parts ahead of assembly. When I checked with the powder coating place they will not powder coat parts that have grease in them. That's the upper and lower control arms. I went with Eastwood metal prep and black chassis paint. I don't have a paint booth so my parts didn't come out looking perfect. I know later on I will have to take them off and touch them up.

That's my approach to this build. I will build it with bike fenders and get it registered, insured and plates and drive it. Next year I will take the body off and have it painted. Black with red pearl. I'll assemble it with the hard top on. This year roadster. Next year hard top and the year after with complete fenders and running boards.

I'm gathering pictures to explain the motor mount changes you will have to make with your 400. I'll post that next time.

[colsen23153]

Tim_Dust

The stock motor mount for the small block Chevrolet will have a clearance problem between the crank pulley and the rack & pinion. The modification will move the engine back 1/2". In this photo Item 3 is the stock spacer. Stock mount.jpg What you do is to cut 1/2" off the end. Keep both pieces and assemble the mount as in this picture. Engine Mount.JPG That will give you the clearance you need as in this picture. motor clearance.JPG.

Some people have done it other ways but this worked for me. The thru bolt is M12 and will be short. You need to get one about 1/2" longer.

It looks funny when you are done. The back mount off the block is like hanging in air. You can get a 3/4" nut and use that as a spacer between the engine plate and that engine mount from the block. The instructions say to leave the engine plates from the chassis loose until you get the thru bolt mounted. When you tighten the plates it will align up nicely.

Cliff

Ps. I rotated that second picture but it keeps showing up 90 deg. out.

[colsen23153]

I just had to post this picture tonight. 100_2172.JPG

The iconic 33 grill.

I HATE RIVNUTS!!!!! I couldn't get the one that was part of the kit to work. I went to Harbor Freight and bought one of theirs and although it did work, I think my hands are going to hurt real bad tonight. It's crazy mounting the radiator to the grill and the A/C condenser. Trying to get all three to align and get the bolt into the rivnut took me three hours. Once all the bolts were in the rest was a breeze. Now I have to try not to scratch it

Cliff

[HVACMAN]

I just had to post this picture tonight. 100_2172.JPG

The iconic 33 grill.

I HATE RIVNUTS!!!!! I couldn't get the one that was part of the kit to work. I went to Harbor Freight and bought one of theirs and although it did work, I think my hands are going to hurt real bad tonight. It's crazy mounting the radiator to the grill and the A/C condenser. Trying to get all three to align and get the bolt into the rivnut took me three hours. Once all the bolts were in the rest was a breeze. Now I have to try not to scratch it

Cliff

I bought an Astro 1442, on Amazon, for most applications and the HF one I use in tight spots.

[FF33rod]

I feel your pain Cliff. Putting that assembly took me a long time as well and ended up oversizing a few of the holes so that the bolts would go through. The pressure needed for the rivnuts is crazy. I end up using a tongue & groove plier on the handle to get better pressure and have to readjust about 3 times to get it to crimp all the way. It wasn't the most intuitive operation to learn. But damn, having it together and seeing it on the front end makes you feel good doesn't it!

[colsen23153]

Today I'm finishing the radiator. Running the lower and upper hoses. When it came to the upper hose I found this ugly angle IMG_0286.jpg and wondered if they made a straight thermostat housing. Found one on Summit that rotated 360 degrees put it in my cart went back to work on the hoses. Well I have a Blue Print Engine and when it came time to work on the upper hose found that this engine came with one. Just loosed the bolts and twist it like this. 100_2176.JPG Now it looks real good. Emptied my cart. Saved $35. On to transmission mount. Should be fun.

Sorry for the Thumbnail. How do you delete them?

[colsen23153]

Spent the better part of the day fabrication a transmission adapter plate for the transmission mount. You can see it here https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...on-help-needed

Some times things that should be so simple are the darnedest things to get done.

Fuel lines this week end. I hope to have it ready to start in a week or week and a half.

[colsen23153]

While I'm thinking of it.

When you are installing the aluminum panels and putting silicone down first, that stuff sets up fast. So, after placing the panel on put the rivets in all the holes then crimp them down like when you torque a head. Jump around. DON'T start on one end and work around to the other side. By the time you get there the silicone will have set up and it will not let the panel sit flush. And don't let the silicone blob up. Apply a thin coat of it. You'll thank me later. How do I know this? Don't ask.

Cliff

[colsen23153]

This last week was a bit of a learning experience.

The transmission mount ended up that I will ask FFR for the plate for the transmission I have. That should take care of that. I did receive the Lokar shifter. I have to determine the final position after the seat is in place. Then I will cut the shifting rod and make the final adjustment.

The brakes are finally bleed. My son came over and helped. It turned out to be air in the line. The peddle starts soft but doesn't go to the floor as before. Final adjustment when I go-cart later next month.

I did get a partial shipment from FFR this week. The trans. mount came with a copy of the new manual and a few brackets and cables. Still waiting for my front springs and steering wheel.

I wanted to have the fuel lines run by now but the trans. mount and brakes set me behind. I will get them done this week. In talking with my son I changed how I was going to route them. I have the meters are temporally placed on a board along with the switches. Getting ready for the first start.

So here are a couple of pictures 100_2183.JPG 100_2184.JPG. You won't see much of a difference as most of the changes are adjustments and small things that have to be done.

Cliff

[AJT '33]

Suggestion for your brake lines, take some old wire hangers or similar wire and use that as a template for your brake line routing. That way you can try out a route then change it if needed. At the same time you can then use that pre-bent wire as a template for the brake line keeping any mess ups or over bends to a minimum. This is particularly handy going from the dash area to the underside of the car and in the rear to the brakes there.

[JOP33]

Suggestion for your brake lines, take some old wire hangers or similar wire and use that as a template for your brake line routing. That way you can try out a route then change it if needed. At the same time you can then use that pre-bent wire as a template for the brake line keeping any mess ups or over bends to a minimum. This is particularly handy going from the dash area to the underside of the car and in the rear to the brakes there.

Just to piggyback on this great suggestion...I used copper waterline for a refrigerator. Just a bit more expensive, but holds its shape a little better than most wire and gives you a true sense of fitting the line between the tubes, etc..

[Tim_Dust]

Cliff, Thanks for the excellent description for the SBC motor mount!

[colsen23153]

My work on the car came to a screeching halt today. I had to have some stitches in my hand for a small cut I got while drilling for the rivets. Nothing serious but can't use my hand for a few days.

I was working on a few problems this week. The fuel fittings for the Sniper won't clear the low profile air cleaner. I fount 45 degree bend fittings that I hope will work. I finished the fuel line run but ran into a problem with the return fitting. Holly expects a 3/8" fuel and return lines. FFR sent 1/4" return line. So I need to find a fitting solution for that. After bending the fuel lines 100_2187.JPG100_2188.JPG I wanted to find a better way for the transmission cooling lines. I decided to get pre bent lines for a '82 - '91 Camaro. I'll cut the ends that go to the radiator on the Camaro and just put up with bending replacement lines to the 33 radiator. The transmission plate came in from FFR so I replaced the one I made. I'm still mot satisfied with it. There are spaces in it to clear the bolt heads. I will rework that to remove the spacers. It jacks up the tail shaft and creates a up angle I don't like.

While waiting for parts to come in I jumped ahead in the instructions and started putting the floor in. Gen 2 has a new floor. It's a foam core sandwiched with aluminum sheets. If you don't have a lift like I don't have you have to lay on your back while drilling the rivet holes in the frame. With drilling fillings flying around it's not something you want to do again.

This is the unfinished floor. Just to give you an idea of what it looks like. 100_2194.JPG

My lay up will give me time to work out some of my problems.

Your gloves should not be here when you are working on the car. 100_2195.JPG

[TxMike64]

This is the unfinished floor. Just to give you an idea of what it looks like. 100_2194.JPG

So the new foam core floor is just a sheet of aluminum that rivets under the floor frame, foam between, and sheet of aluminum that rivets to the top of the floor frame?

[peterh226]

Yes and a special adhesive to bond it all together. I’m not sure what the foam core is but it has a ceramic feel. I don’t want to test it, but I’d expect it to be very brittle.