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Thread: firewall and foot box

  1. #1
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    firewall and foot box

    I am working on body level and fitment early. Currently I have the body level on the frame and am working on the firewall and foot boxes. The firewall clamps on well. I can see a few adjustments will be needed, but I will be able to mount it flush to the frame and get a tight overlap on the body lip at the cowl. Partially because there is a slight rake to the upper frame.

    The foot boxes are different. The fiberglass body lip at that position on the sides are in front of the vertical frame and create a problem for mounting the foot boxes flush with the frame. About .125 to .25 inch proud of the frame. They would be bowed with the body on and overlapping the side flange.

    Have you trimmed the body?
    Added spacers between the foot box and the frame?
    Added insulation between the foot boxes and frame?
    I am interested to know how others have tackled this problem for a clean mount between the foot boxes and firewall and the body flanges. Many of the posts just show examples of the firewall and foot boxes attached to the frame without the body. These look nice and flush, but this could be a problem if trying to fit the body later.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    The firewall will mount flat to the frame. You stated the the body is level on the frame. did you check the other measurements front to back?
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

  3. #3
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Indigo808 View Post
    I am working on body level and fitment early. Currently I have the body level on the frame and am working on the firewall and foot boxes. The firewall clamps on well. I can see a few adjustments will be needed, but I will be able to mount it flush to the frame and get a tight overlap on the body lip at the cowl. Partially because there is a slight rake to the upper frame.

    The foot boxes are different. The fiberglass body lip at that position on the sides are in front of the vertical frame and create a problem for mounting the foot boxes flush with the frame. About .125 to .25 inch proud of the frame. They would be bowed with the body on and overlapping the side flange.

    Have you trimmed the body?
    Added spacers between the foot box and the frame?
    Added insulation between the foot boxes and frame?
    I am interested to know how others have tackled this problem for a clean mount between the foot boxes and firewall and the body flanges. Many of the posts just show examples of the firewall and foot boxes attached to the frame without the body. These look nice and flush, but this could be a problem if trying to fit the body later.

    Thanks in advance.
    Could you add some photos? I have and have seen various degrees of what your explaining, pictures would help provide the best solution for you.

  4. #4
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    That is an interesting thought. I must admit that the 45.5-inch measurement has not been clear to me. I do not have the manual handy right now, but if I recall, it looked as if that measurement was between two fixed points on the body, instead of something that could be changed. Are you suggesting if the body was higher in the rear and the front spread a little, that the lower lip could be flush with the frame and allow a flush mount? Currently the door sills are mostly flush with the frame, front to rear. I did need to raise the passenger side about 3/16 to achieve level from the front.
    I made a quick diagram, cross section from above. Currently the body is tight in the left position. Should it be the right diagram instead?

    Thanks

  5. #5
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  6. #6
    Senior Member CVOBill's Avatar
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    The body shouldn't sandwich between the frame and firewall.
    CVOBill
    MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
    Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
    TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
    MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater

  7. #7
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    That it! I raised the rear of the body, spread the front slightly and they are now flush. Thanks for the answers.

  8. #8
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    Well, I see I have some more to work out. Now the frame shows below the body on the sides in the rear. I have not had a lot of time with it this evening.

  9. #9
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Indigo808 View Post
    Well, I see I have some more to work out. Now the frame shows below the body on the sides in the rear. I have not had a lot of time with it this evening.
    That's normal, not sure if you have a Gen1 or Gen2 however the rear frame sits about 1/2" lower at the bottom rear of the rear wheel well.

  10. #10
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    I’m have the same question I think. I’ve got the Gen 2 body, but this looks similar. 9277FE7B-EF93-4831-9A31-8AC7BA8DE947.jpeg if the firewall is flat, the the body bows out. I can trim the body but then what supports the body at the bottom? If it floats the I guess there should be some clearance between the flange and the frame as just rubbing on that edge will not be good.
    The top of the firewall and this body fit very well and the body looks to be symmetric as much as I can see.

    Next, screwing the door sills will squeeze the body in a bit as well and changes body shape a bit.
    - Peterh226 #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
    Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
    YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
    AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10

  11. #11
    Member Mrallsport32's Avatar
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    Peter, I have found out that the Gen 2 body is completely different from a Gen 1.
    We used a laser level on the chassis, firewall and body it came out perfect. I also had to trim the sides by the foot box. I just used clamps on the door sills and trimmed until it fit. When you put fasteners in the door sills it will tighten the body down and be very stiff. The Gen 2 body is a lot stiffer then the Gen 1. Also I put the expanded foam strip on the cross bar over the gas tank that came with the kit and set the body back on and hit the 45.5 almost perfect. The lower part of the body runs parallel with the lower frame rail on my Gen 2. I had the same questions you do, I talked to Tony at factory five and he was very helpful.
    In fact, My body fitting went so fast, that my car would be out to the paint shop if I had all of my parts that are still on back order from F5.

  12. #12
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    Yeah it all it fitting really well. I added the spacers at the back ( not shown in the new instruction, but still needed I believe).
    I trimmed the edges at firewall until there Was a bit of clearance. That will get rid of the gaps where the yellow lines are in the picture above.
    Thanks. Trying to get some stuff done today!
    Last edited by peterh226; 05-05-2019 at 02:47 PM.
    - Peterh226 #1134
    '33 Hot Rod 2nd Gen. Blueprint 383 Sniper TKO Delivered 4/14/2019
    Full Fenders, Top, 3-Link, Wilwoods
    YOKOHAMA ADVAN NEOVA AD08 R | Fr 245/45 R17 | Rr 295/30 R18
    AR605 Torq-Thrust M Chrome | Fr 17x8 | Rr 18x10

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