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Thread: E brake too much tension

  1. #1
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    E brake too much tension

    Hi,
    I just installed my mustang parking brake and the rear wheels are binding. With the handle released there is quite a bit of tension. It took some effort to connect the cables. If the cable on the park brake was a half inch to a inch longer it would work great.
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

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    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    I looked up and saw that the park brake handle automatically adjusts the tension tighter. I have to figure out how to release it.
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  3. #3
    Richard Oben's Avatar
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    Look at the handle, there are two sprockets. Disable the drive side sprocket temporarily and release the spring. We then set the brake and drill a new hole in the main sprocket. The key is to have NO tension on the cables when handle is down. Then work when pulled. It is a bit of a fine line. HTH, Richard. PS make sure you understand how it works before you do all this.
    Richard Oben FFR builder www.northracecars.com

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  5. #4
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    Perhaps some info on this old thread will help you.

    https://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-fac...djustment.html

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    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    Thanks
    I don’t quite understand the reason for drilling a hole. Is that to pin it temporarily?

    I also did not see anywhere in the directions to cut the spring. However I believe that might take care of the problem. I just hate to do something permanently that may be the wrong thing without at least some guidance.

    Can I remove the spring?
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  7. #6
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    I'm not sure either, what Richards means about drilling a new hole? My e-brake already had a hole in the cable pulley, I used for pinning it, but my e-brake was from a 90 donor, so the new ones may not have that.

    You could remove the spring I suppose, although simply disengaging it should have the same benefit. I believe there was another thread on FFCars, that described how that is done.

  8. #7
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    When you say to disable the spring do you mean temporarily or permanently?
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  9. #8
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    This picture is one mod that was used on the pre 94 donor handles.



    The idea was that the self adjuster on the donor handle, was no longer needed when using disc brakes, instead of donor drum brakes. The concern was with using disc brakes, if the adjuster ratcheted up a notch, it may cause brake drag. Brake return springs on a drum brake were much stronger then a disc brake, and could overcome any tension from the cable. The handle basically became a lever with a pivot point, to tension the cable. Like the new FFR optional handle is, and the Lokar handles some use..

    Now I have no idea if this same mod would apply to the later donor (94+) handle though, as it may have come from a Mustang with disc brakes. It well may be the handle's self adjuster just needs to be released a notch or two, to give the cable some more slack.
    Hopefully someone using the later model donor e-brake handle can chip in.
    FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010

  10. #9
    Senior Member canuck1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    ...Now I have no idea if this same mod would apply to the later donor (94+) handle though, as it may have come from a Mustang with disc brakes. It well may be the handle's self adjuster just needs to be released a notch or two, to give the cable some more slack.
    Hopefully someone using the later model donor e-brake handle can chip in.
    I have all 1995 GT era (new parts) handle and cables etc.. No modification of handle or spring was required with either the stock GT rear calipers/rotors, Cobra upgrade or the Lincoln MK VIII calipers I have on now.

    Sean
    MK 3.5 (MK IV body retrofit to MK III chassis), 351W stroked & poked to 396 c.i., custom EFI, 4 into 4's, 3link, 3.73, 15" Halibrand replicas, full bumpers, 2 X roll bars, IČ electronics, hydroboost, 5-lug, GT front, MK VIII/Cobra rear discs, Levy rear LCA's, Forte front bar, VPM rear bar, painted by SRP (again!)

  11. #10
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    I cut the spring and it works much better now.
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

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