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Thread: On another note...

  1. #1
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    On another note...

    I'm full of questions tonight! I'm usually full of something, but tonight it's just questions.
    I had gotten the engine installed a couple of weeks ago. Finally got the driveshaft torqued down, got the Forte hybrid trans mount installed, and then install the trans "A" frame. At this point I became aware of the fact that the engine/trans as a unit is rotated down on the drivers side. I was going to hook up the hoist, loosen the bolts, and try to lift the drivers side back up to level it, but in checking the engine mounts, the locator pins have no more available space to allow them to rotate in the frame mounts.
    What am I missing here? There must be some way to bring everything back to level side-to-side.
    Any answers would help. I've run out of options, other than putting some spacers in the motor mounts.
    Thanks.

    Rick

  2. #2

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    Where are you measuring the level? Are the bolts somewhat centered in the slots?
    Mike

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    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Being low on the driver's side is a good thing. Usually the left header is too high in relation to the body cutout. Don't even think about it being level. It isn't and won't be. A couple I have helped with we even had to use spacers between the mount and the block on the psgr side to get the headers equal. I wish FFR would lengthen those slots so it would be easier to raise the psgr side.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  4. #4
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    Mike, I checked it at the intake manifold, but where it really made an impact was the top and bottom of the transmission. The trans mount is sitting at a slant, and I know I'm going to need to use a spacer, because I'm using Fortes' hybrid S10 trans mount. I'm not looking to make it perfectly level, but I want it to be reasonable for fabricating the spacers. I don't think the headers are an issue since this is an FIA car. I think I can adjust using the J pipes.
    I agree Craig. Having those holes slotted just a bit mor would make this easier.
    Thanks guys.

  5. #5
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CraigS View Post
    Being low on the driver's side is a good thing. Usually the left header is too high in relation to the body cutout. Don't even think about it being level. It isn't and won't be. A couple I have helped with we even had to use spacers between the mount and the block on the psgr side to get the headers equal. I wish FFR would lengthen those slots so it would be easier to raise the psgr side.
    Craig is 100% correct; being low on the driver's side is a good thing for the Roadster. Doesn't matter so much with the FIA.

    Interesting that you say the transmission mount doesn't sit flush with the A-frame (from the other forum). When you get the body on, if you decide not to do anything about the engine, I think you'll want to make a tapered shim so that you don't get any pressure points on the mount.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  6. #6
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    John, Do you think that a tapered spacer/shim between the trans mount and the "A" frame would work OK? I just don't want to do anything that will put undue stress on the drive line. The tilt of the engine is almost imperceptible looking at it from the engine compartment. Like I mentioned, the trans is favoring that same side, and that's where the real problem is for me. I guess I could do two separate spacers, one on one bolt, and one on the other, and just make them the two different thicknesses necessary. Maybe slightly taper each of them so that they sit flush. I can see them needing to be at least a 1/4" different thickness. Haven't got everything raised up to where it needs to be to have the trans clear the 4" cross tube. Thanks.

    Rick

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    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    1/4" at the transmission mount seems like an awful lot. If it were mine, I'd get the engine hoist out, raise the engine enough to get the Dremel into position and grind out the slot. Then I'd spray some paint onto a piece of card board and "brush" it over the grind with a Q-Tip. I don't think you'll need to take anything loose except the mount-to-frame bolts.


    John
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  8. #8
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    John, I've actually seen some installations that have upwards to three 1/4" plate pieces stacked up. Since I'm using an S10 tail shaft, I have to use a different trans mount. I'm using the hybrid mount that Mike Forte makes. It's a bit shorter than the Mustang trans mount, so it's going to require some additional thickness for the spacers. I think I've figured how to handle this without messing with the motor mounts. I'm going to take a piece of metal stock that's as thick as the largest gap between the A frame and the trans mount. Then I'm going to cut it on a band saw to match the taper of the gap. I'll put one piece on one side, against the trans mount, and reverse the other piece, and put it on the other side of the A frame. This way if I drill the holes straight through the two pieces of metal stock, the bolts going into the trans mount won't have any unevenness where they would contact the A frame. Clear as mud right!
    Looking at the engine from the front of the car you really don't notice the level. Once the hood is on it will diffuse it even more.

    Rick

  9. #9
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Maybe I misunderstood. I thought you were saying the 1/4" mismatch was side to side, not front to back.

    Pictures would help immensely. https://www.ffcars.com/forums/43-off...um-flickr.html will walk you through the steps for Flickr; I think you still get free storage for 1000 photos.


    John
    Last edited by phileas_fogg; 03-17-2019 at 07:30 AM.
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  10. #10
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    The engine doesn't need to be level, you only need to be concerned how the pipes level up and exit the body. The mounts are rubber they will adjust to any irregularities, no need to make tapered spacers??????

  11. #11
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    Rich, the only thing is the transmission mount does not sit flat in relation to the A frame. To avoid stressing the bolts holding the trans mount to the A frame I figured I could either make a tapered spacer, or change the way the A frame sits to match the transmission. I don't know, maybe I way overthinking this, as usual.

    Rick

  12. #12
    Senior Member EZ$'s Avatar
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    OK, so I drew up what I was thinking. I believe the angles are exaggerated, but I hope it makes sense. I figured that this would take the stress off the heads of the bolts which would otherwise contact the A frame at an angle.
    P3170116 by Rick Paul, on Flickr
    If I'm overthinking this, or if this would be unnecessary, let me know.
    Thanks.

    Rick

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