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Thread: Aj's 818S in Houston

  1. #81
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    Wires Wires Everywhere Wires

    Started working on putting the ECU harness in the car and routing/trimming it. At this point I'm basically cutting almost every wire (except shielded signal wires) so that I can pull them clean from the rats nest, trim them to length, and router them in trunks. Before I cut any wire, I label it with a three digit number where the first number is a section (engine bay =1 , fuel system = 2, cockpit = 3 etc) and then a sequential number. I'm using these handy little wiring labels from 3M:


    Wire Labels.jpg

    After cutting the wires, I trim them to length and put them back together using the wonderful little self-soldering connectors:

    Self Solder Connectors.jpg

    Yellow Connection.jpg

    I pull each connector into a group, and then group several connectors that will be routed together into a loom covered trunk. This one here is the passengers side engine bay which includes the fuel injectors, spark plugs, mass air flow sensor, both O2 sensors (I probably only need one, but doesn't hurt to have the harness there in case I need the other down the road) and a few other things.

    Mini Trunk.jpg

    Passenger Side Engine Harness.jpg

    I have to finish the center of the engine which best I can tell is only going to be the neutral switch and the waste gate. Then I'll take the drivers side engine harness before moving on to the wires going into the cockpit. So far I'm only running the signal wires, All of the power will be fed out of my Coach harness, so I will have a separate power trunks that makes their way around the car.

  2. #82

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    To complete the joyful work, listen to Emerson Lake Palmer's "Brain Salad Surgery" album while working...
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  3. #83
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    I bought a ton of those self-soldering connectors too. Maybe I got a bad batch, but I definitely recommend that you cut open some of the ones you've done to make sure you are really getting a good solder connection. Since they aren't a crimp you are relying 100% on getting complete solder flow around the wires. I found that the solder flow on mine just wasn't good enough for my liking. It passed current, but my gut just told me it wasn't going to last. I reverted to good old solder and shrink tube.

  4. #84
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    I twist my wires together before inserting, rotate them while heating to make sure the solder flows out, and give them a good tug after they cool to check them. I discovered these when I rewired the Mustang, has good luck there.
    Last edited by Ajzride; 10-15-2019 at 08:22 PM.

  5. #85
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    Here are better pictures of how I use the self-soldering connectors, especially on the really small ones The bigger ones seem to have a lot more solder and work better just sliding them together. It's not as quick as just sliding them together, but much stronger. And still quicker (and less chance of burning your fingers) than soldering them the old school way.

    Twisted.jpg

    Soldered.jpg

  6. #86
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    Lots of Questions

    I'm 95% complete with the engine bay wiring, but the last 5% takes 25% of the time. I 'm hoping the geniuses here can shed some light on a few things for me. Some of these questions might be self evident to the Subaru tuning experienced, but I've never connected to one with a Cobb, because I've never had one and my current one ECU isn't powered up yet.

    1. The Coolant Sensor has 3 wires, 2 of them go to the ECU and 1 goes to the instrument cluster. Since I'm eliminating the cluster, I can just delete that wire correct?
    2. Will I be able to access the cruise enabled and cruise set bits over OBD-II (eliminating cluster)?
    3. ECU connector 135 pin 15 is hooked into the light circuit, what does it actually do?
    4. Would I be able to access via the ECU the digital bits for TGV position and Power Steering Pressure (I could repurpose them for blinker and bright status)
    5. The PO remove all of the secondary air pump system (good), but appears to have tossed the barometric pressure sensor (bad). Does that connect to ECU134 Pin 27 (Red-Green wire)?

  7. #87
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajzride View Post
    I'm 95% complete with the engine bay wiring, but the last 5% takes 25% of the time. I 'm hoping the geniuses here can shed some light on a few things for me. Some of these questions might be self evident to the Subaru tuning experienced, but I've never connected to one with a Cobb, because I've never had one and my current one ECU isn't powered up yet.

    1. The Coolant Sensor has 3 wires, 2 of them go to the ECU and 1 goes to the instrument cluster. Since I'm eliminating the cluster, I can just delete that wire correct? Yes, just make sure you insulate that wire. It has voltage on it.
    2. Will I be able to access the cruise enabled and cruise set bits over OBD-II (eliminating cluster)? Those signal do not go through the cluster. I use open source tuning and there is no need for those signals.
    3. ECU connector 135 pin 15 is hooked into the light circuit, what does it actually do? There are input to the cluster for back lightning, turn signals, high beams.

    4. Would I be able to access via the ECU the digital bits for TGV position and Power Steering Pressure (I could repurpose them for blinker and bright status) I did a TGV delete. I use one sensor input for oil pressure and the other for oil temperature. I disable the TGV function in the ECU. My dash display read that data the displays oil temp and pressure.

      Screenshot_20161029-103409.png

    5. The PO remove all of the secondary air pump system (good), but appears to have tossed the barometric pressure sensor (bad). Does that connect to ECU134 Pin 27 (Red-Green wire)? You can just delete all EVAP functions in the ECU. Unless you are trying to be emissions compliment.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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  9. #88
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    Bob

    Thanks for chiming in, I knew you would have good insight on the ECU. With regards to questions 2 and 3, I don't think you understood my questions.

    I'm looking to completely eliminate the factory gauge cluster, which means I have to find a way to replicate all of that functionality using a tablet and software such as BTSSM. I know I can get fuel level, coolant temp, RPM, speed etc from the ECU and put them on the tablet using the app, but I'm wondering about some of the other more random stuff. For example there are wires from the ECU that run to the gauge cluster to turn on a light if the cruise control is enabled, and if it is active (my car will see a lot of interstate time, cruise is important to me). Do you know if those would be available to BTSSM from the ECU so that I can eliminate those wires and lights and just show them in the app? If they are not, then I'll have to mount some small lights somewhere for that functionality and keep the existing wires. Ditto on blinkers and brights, I know they are not in the ECU, but there are some discrete inputs to the ECU i'm not using (such as power steering pressure switch and TGV Open/Closed switches). If those discrete signals such as power steering pressure are available to the app via ECU, then I can repurpose them for blinkers on then app screen.

    If your are not sure if those are available, then I'll just have to leave the wires in place for now and wait until I'm powered up and can connect myself and experiment. But if you already know, it would allow me to diet the harness further.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    You can just delete all EVAP functions in the ECU. Unless you are trying to be emissions compliment.
    I don't need to be emissions compliant, but everything I read on the air pump delete said you have to keep the barometric pressure sensor and mount it somewhere, or the MAF calculations in the ECU will fail. Since I'm at sea level can I just hard code the atmospheric pressure using my COBB and eliminate the sensor? Looks for sure the PO threw it away.
    Last edited by Ajzride; 10-16-2019 at 09:58 AM.

  10. #89
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajzride View Post
    Bob

    Thanks for chiming in, I knew you would have good insight on the ECU. With regards to questions 2 and 3, I don't think you understood my questions.

    I'm looking to completely eliminate the factory gauge cluster, which means I have to find a way to replicate all of that functionality using a tablet and software such as BTSSM. I know I can get fuel level, coolant temp, RPM, speed etc from the ECU and put them on the tablet using the app, but I'm wondering about some of the other more random stuff. For example there are wires from the ECU that run to the gauge cluster to turn on a light if the cruise control is enabled, and if it is active (my car will see a lot of interstate time, cruise is important to me). Do you know if those would be available to BTSSM from the ECU so that I can eliminate those wires and lights and just show them in the app? If they are not, then I'll have to mount some small lights somewhere for that functionality and keep the existing wires. Ditto on blinkers and brights, I know they are not in the ECU, but there are some discrete inputs to the ECU i'm not using (such as power steering pressure switch and TGV Open/Closed switches). If those discrete signals such as power steering pressure are available to the app via ECU, then I can repurpose them for blinkers on then app screen.

    If your are not sure if those are available, then I'll just have to leave the wires in place for now and wait until I'm powered up and can connect myself and experiment. But if you already know, it would allow me to diet the harness further.



    I don't need to be emissions compliant, but everything I read on the air pump delete said you have to keep the barometric pressure sensor and mount it somewhere, or the MAF calculations in the ECU will fail. Since I'm at sea level can I just hard code the atmospheric pressure using my COBB and eliminate the sensor? Looks for sure the PO threw it away.
    None of my engines had air pumps. So I don't know the answer to that.
    I have only used BTSSM with variable data. I have not seen anything in BTSSM that supports discrete input or displays that info.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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  11. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    None of my engines had air pumps. So I don't know the answer to that.
    I have only used BTSSM with variable data. I have not seen anything in BTSSM that supports discrete input or displays that info.
    Bob
    Thanks Bob, I'll have to wait until I'm powered up and do testing.

    And just so no one else gets confused, on the 06+ with drive by wire the cruise control is handled by the ECU, so the lever on the column and all of the lights are driven by the ECU.

  12. #91
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajzride View Post
    Thanks Bob, I'll have to wait until I'm powered up and do testing.

    And just so no one else gets confused, on the 06+ with drive by wire the cruise control is handled by the ECU, so the lever on the column and all of the lights are driven by the ECU.
    My donor was an 04 FXT which is also a DBW and ECU cruise control. Here are my schematics.

    https://1drv.ms/f/s!AjxmxU-yAwK9hXL_Hxt5j4vJxVv0
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 10-16-2019 at 08:05 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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  13. #92
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    I want to make sure I don’t have my orientations confused. The “front” O2 sensor is the one I want to keep and control from, correct?

  14. #93
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajzride View Post
    I want to make sure I don’t have my orientations confused. The “front” O2 sensor is the one I want to keep and control from, correct?
    Yes, front o2 is used for closed loop fuel trim.
    The rear O2 is used to make sure your cat is working. If you remove rear o2, then you will have to disable some fault codes.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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  15. #94
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    ECM Wires to Delete / Repurpose

    I plan to eliminate or repurpose the wires listed in the pic attached. Someone please let me know if I will regret that down the road. I'll be using the relays from the Coach-One system for fuel pump and radiator fans.

    Screen Shot 2019-10-17 at 7.40.08 PM.png

  16. #95
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    Wrapping up the ECU

    Mostly finished up wiring the ECU. Every wire on the ECU is routed where it needs to go except the HVAC tie ins. I made a removable harness that runs from the ECU to the gauge cluster. I really want to eliminate the cluster and use a tablet, but I'm not sure I'll be able to because of the immobilizer. I'm not willing to swap to an aftermarket ECU just to run a tablet dash, and I'm not willing to leave the dash hooked up and hidden somewhere. With the ECU finally wired up, I retuned to working on the coach harness.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post385224

  17. #96
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    Thinking about the whole ECU things gave me insomnia, so I stayed up all night doing tons of research. I decided to replace the ECU with a 2004 Forrester XT Turbo MT unit. This is supposed to control identically to the 2006 ECU, except no immobilizer. I will have to move a few wires around, I believe Bob already went through this, so I'll use his wiring diagrams. I could have bought a AT ECU for $225 cheaper than the MT one, but I could't find any confirmation if the cruise control would still work if I refreshed an AT ECU with an MT flash. I decided it was worth the extra money to buy the MT ECU.

    I also realized that the fuel rails and fuel system setup by the PO were returnless, so I either have to replumb the fuel system with new railes and a regulator, or wire up the factory fuel pump control module. I decided to wire up the module, I'll work on that this morning along with wiring changes required by the 2004 ECU, and then move on to the keyless entry/ignition system I bought.

  18. #97
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    These are the original subaru schematics I started with.
    Bob


    https://1drv.ms/b/s!AgduxxAs3q-xgwNp...h88vx?e=l2O5ze


    Here is a link to my completed ECU panel. To late to tell you I started with a AT ECU and flashed it to a MT.

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post146406
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 10-19-2019 at 08:20 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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  19. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    To late to tell you I started with a AT ECU and flashed it to a MT.
    I knew you had started with an AT, but you also said you had not tested the cruise control.

  20. #99
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    More updates on the wiring thread:

    https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post385519

  21. #100
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    I got my 2004 ECU in today, it is nothing like my 2006. I read a lot of forums that said there were only 6 pins different. Turns out that is true for 2004 to 2005, but 2004 to 2006 there are only 6 pins that are the same. I've spent the last 6 hours making a translation chart, and I have a few discrepancies to figure out how to solve before I can be certain this will even work. If it does I'll have to re-pin all 4 ECU plugs, and I'm not sure how much ground and shield wiring I will have to modify.

  22. #101
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    After further research, the 2004 ECU is a 16-bit unit and the 2006 is a 32-bit. Technically I can get the 2004 ECU to work, but it will be a lot of wiring updates. I'm going to hold on to the 2004 ECU, but back burner the swap while I try a few other things. First I'm going to take apart my gauge cluster and see if the module that reports to the immobilizer can be taken out and installed separately, in effect keeping my immobilizer and just hiding away all of the components. Second would be contacting ECU labs about a flash. They don't seem to have any US based dealers, but they claim to be able to bypass the immobilizer in the ECU.

    I want to give a big thanks to Misha and the team at EcoTech in St Louis. They helped me a bunch with this research, even though in the end they were not able to sell me anything. I highly suggest you guys send business their way when you can.

  23. #102
    Senior Member DSR-3's Avatar
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    I have an ECU that you can have for the cost of shipping if you want it. I didn't strip my donor, so don't know the year/model.
    818S #332, EZ30R H6, California licensed 01/2019

  24. #103
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajzride View Post
    After further research, the 2004 ECU is a 16-bit unit and the 2006 is a 32-bit. Technically I can get the 2004 ECU to work, but it will be a lot of wiring updates. I'm going to hold on to the 2004 ECU, but back burner the swap while I try a few other things. First I'm going to take apart my gauge cluster and see if the module that reports to the immobilizer can be taken out and installed separately, in effect keeping my immobilizer and just hiding away all of the components. Second would be contacting ECU labs about a flash. They don't seem to have any US based dealers, but they claim to be able to bypass the immobilizer in the ECU.

    I want to give a big thanks to Misha and the team at EcoTech in St Louis. They helped me a bunch with this research, even though in the end they were not able to sell me anything. I highly suggest you guys send business their way when you can.
    My 04 FXT ECU is 32 bit. It is very similar pin-out as the 04 WRX STI. You probably got a ECU out of a normally aspirated forester.

    Here is a link to a link to a pin out list. https://1drv.ms/b/s!AgduxxAs3q-xgwdh...DFcQE?e=ZEvdEb
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 10-24-2019 at 04:54 PM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
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  25. #104
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    I have Bob's 05 FXT ECU which I'd be willing to send to you. If you want it, let me know.

  26. #105
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletch View Post
    I have Bob's 05 FXT ECU which I'd be willing to send to you. If you want it, let me know.
    That will definitely work.
    Her is another document https://1drv.ms/x/s!AgduxxAs3q-xgwhS...hvvfu?e=V7KCXM
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  27. #106
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    Appreciate the help

    I really appreciate all the help guys, I hope with your input I can come up with an acceptable solution that doesn't include too much work. After reading your comments and doing some more reading, I think the FXT ECU I have is also a 32-bit, It is certainly DBW, which means 32-bit. After looking at the new links that Bob posted, it looks like the problem is that my 2006 WRX Turbo ECU (and hence harness) do not match the 2006 STI harness that you have referenced in your spreadsheet. My 2006 harness is definitely different. I would think that maybe I had downloaded the wrong manual to make my pinout spreadsheet, but all the colors and empty slots line up perfectly with the manual I used to generate my spreadsheet.

    So at this point I'm lead to believe that the FXT ECU I have (or the ones you guys offered me) would work. The problem is still that my harness is all wrong for those ECUs. I could certainly just remove all the pins and put them back in the slots that the FXT ECU called for, and that would probably get me 90% of the way there (except none of the colors would match the ECU drawings), but there are quite a few sensors that have power, ground, and shield tied into my 2006 ECU that are not tied into the ECU on the FXT, and I would have to figure out how to spider that power, ground, and shield into my existing harness. Doable, but doesn't sound very fun.

    As an example of what I'm talking about for my ECU pinouts vs the 2006 STI pinouts that Bob listed (which seems to match the pinouts for the FXT), see the attached picture.

    Screen Shot 2019-10-24 at 6.42.25 PM.png

    If I'm just confused, and someone thinks they can straighten me out easier by talking through things instead of trying to share messages, feel free to call me up at 251.533.2398.

  28. #107
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    All ECU Pinouts

    Decided it might be helpful to someone else down the road if I post all of the pinout spreadsheets. I intend to make a thread later with all of my wiring information, but if a google search returns this page, i would have for someone not to find what they were looking for.

    ECU-134.png
    ECU-135.png
    ECU-136.png
    ECU-137.png

    I went back through the 2006 manual, the pinouts on the STI ECU match those of the 2004 FXT, but the pinouts on the WRX-Turbo match my harness. Yay.

    further research shows that the STI didn't swap over to the new harness until 2007, but the WRX swapped in 2006.

    https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2821988
    Last edited by Ajzride; 10-24-2019 at 09:29 PM.

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  30. #108
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    I would use the ECU that matches your harness.
    Do you have a schematic that matches your harness?
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  31. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    I would use the ECU that matches your harness.
    Do you have a schematic that matches your harness?
    Bob
    I have the schematics for the harness. The problem with keeping the ECU that matches the harness is once again the immobilizer. I'm okay with hiding a key and an immobilizer box in the car, but hiding a whole gauge cluster is another story. I'm going to see if I the security piece of the immobilizer is an add on board that could be pulled off the cluster and hidden away as well.

  32. #110
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    ECU Locked?

    I wired up the immobilizer today, along with the core functions of the dash. I tried to connect to it with RomRaider Logger and ECUFlash. Neither have much luck. I'm 99% sure the ECU is locked by ECUTek.

    I'm using a brand new Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 Cable ordered directly from Tactrix. I've tried it using both my laptop (which uses a VM for running the software) and then I carried a desktop that runs Windows7 Natively out to the garage and had the same results with that one.

    When using RomRaider Logger it will connect for about 2 seconds if you time powering up the ECU just right with the data logger init command. It will grab the value of any parameters you have checked, then it disconnects again. When trying to read the ROM with ECUFlash, it requests the seed file and then shuts down the connection.

    I've ohmed out all of the data link connectors and they all appear to be correctly and well connected.

    Screen Shot 2019-10-25 at 2.34.38 PM.png

    Screen Shot 2019-10-25 at 2.30.48 PM.png

  33. #111
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    Safety First Right?

    I work in a really small space, 10x17 with the car, tool boxes, shelves, drill press etc. I'm usually turning sideways to slide around the car when working on it. I've probably smashed my thigh into these front brackets 10 or 12 times, a few times I've caught the corner well enough to draw blood. This week while working on the wiring and crawling around the interior, I slipped and smashed my forearm into the edge of the passenger compartment, and the aluminum panel sliced it wide open. I won't post pics because I have a week stomach and wouldn't want to expose anyone else with one to the images, but it was bad enough I probably should have gone and gotten some stitches.

    To prevent further incidents, I hopped on the interwebz and located a "baby proofing kit" which included a bunch of self adhesive foam edge and corner guards. Hopefully this stuff will come of pretty easy when I get ready to start body panels.

    Sharp Bracket.jpg

    Aluminum Knife.jpg

    Soft Bracket.jpg

    Aluminum Butter.jpg

  34. #112
    Senior Member Jetfuel's Avatar
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    Dang AJ...if you thought you needed stitches you probably did....be careful out there

    Jet

  35. #113
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    I know exactly what you mean. I cut the bridge of my nose when I hit that part trying to look more closely at the set screw on the Koni adjustment ring. Small car and tight working spaces become tough.

  36. #114
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    I’d try some superglue on that. Sorry bout your luck.

  37. #115
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    Bench Testing the ECU

    I decided before I spent $300 on having the ECU Flashed back to stock by a tuner, I should eliminate any other possible issues that would be preventing me from reading it. I took the ECU out of the car and wired up all of the power, ground and OBD-II connections and tested it in an isolated environment. Still have the exact same issue, can read from it for 2 seconds if you time up power the ECU with the init command from RomRaider or ECUFlash. Guess I'll drop it off at the tuner tomorrow.

    Screen Shot 2019-10-27 at 4.55.13 PM.jpg

  38. #116
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Ajzride,
    Here is the original base firmware for a 2004 Forester XT USDM Manual transmission. You can try and flash this. This is what I started width in my 818.


    https://1drv.ms/u/s!AgduxxAs3q-xgwkp...SOTAP?e=qRa2pe
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

  39. #117
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Ajzride,
    Here is the original base firmware for a 2004 Forester XT USDM Manual transmission. You can try and flash this. This is what I started width in my 818.


    https://1drv.ms/u/s!AgduxxAs3q-xgwkp...SOTAP?e=qRa2pe
    Thanks Bob, but the problem is that I can't flash anything, the ECU has been locked by a Tuner to prevent access by anyone but himself (except I don't know who he is). To flash it I either need dealer/tuner level tools, or have to extract the ECU from the box and build a circuit board tool with a 7055 timers, solder some wires on, etc. I think I'll just let a pro handle it. I've no desire to fry my ECU when it is VIN locked against my immobilizer.

  40. #118

    Yes, I love Technology
    aquillen's Avatar
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    Could it be it has to have the immobilizer connected in order to cooperate?
    Art Quillen

  41. #119
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    Immobilizer is connected in the car, I'm told it isn't needed on the bench just to keep the ECU running. In fact the ECU should be up to help troubleshoot immobilizer. The guys on the ROMRaider forum think I need to have power on pin B15 on the bench (ignition), so I'll try that this afternoon.

  42. #120
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    I was able to successfully read the Rom on the bench and log in with logger. B19 is a Green-Red wire that goes hot when the ignition is turned on. When I set up my bench test I had thought it was an output to the coils so I didn't wire it up. It's not hooked up in the car either, and I"m pretty sure that is because I confused it with the Red-Green wire on B19 (only 2 pins over) for the HVAC. I know this is the case because it is rolled up with all of the other HVAC wires. Hopefully I'll get it back in the car today or tomorrow and go for a first start this weekend.

  43. Likes fletch liked this post
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