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Thread: Aj's 818S in Houston

  1. #1
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    Aj's 818S in Houston

    I've recently purchased a partially completed 818S which is in a roller state. The donor was a 2006 WRX Turbo with 74K. Currently the car has motor and transmission installed, brake and clutch plumbed, all suspension hung, and most aluminum riveted in place. I was really looking for a GTM or Superlight Coupe, but came across the 818 and decided it was a better project for me to take on as a first kit car than the more complicated supercar builds.

    I'll be picking up the car this weekend, and I have spent the last 2 weeks reading every build thread on the forum for an 818S or 818C (I skipped the R threads since I have no desire to track the car). Full disclosure I started on the last page of build threads and I'm working my way forwards. I just finished page 3 which included a few long threads (InsuranceGuy and Hindsight) and I'm starting on page 2 today. Several long threads on that page as well, I hope to finish them before I pickup the car this weekend. There are a lot of threads that don't go anywhere, this won't be one of them. My last project build thread was over 85 pages long. This one won't be that long, but I'm not in a hurry for this project. 2 years would be okay with the amount of customization I intend to do.

    While this is my first kit car, this is not my first project car. I've completely restored a 65 mustang which I joke that the only stock part left is the roof panel. It has a completely custom interior, a fiberglass nose, and a custom paint job. I did all the body work myself, and I have basically repainted in my garage the whole car due to issues with the paint job I had sprayed by a professional shop (Not sure why some computers show the pictures upside down). I got pretty good at fiberglass work as part of this project.

    IMG_8060.JPG

    IMG_8057.JPG

    IMG_8068.JPG

    The goal of the car for me is going to be a really nice street car. It will have a full interior with HVAC, Audio, sound deadener, etc. Although I will be keeping the car a roadster, I will be putting the coupe side windows in and having a custom top made that will work with the side windows and be water tight. I may even fabricate a custom fiberglass hardtop that is truly removable. The FFR offering is not removable, it is convertible, and it's not a quick process. Additionally I don't like the look of the FFR hardtop.

    Here are some bullet items on my plans, it probably doesn't include everything.

    - Power Brakes. I drive a car now with Manual brakes, but I've seen plenty of threads complaining about how much pedal pressure is required for braking. I'd rather deal with this before I get the body on.

    - ABS. I hope to do this, but if the PO has already thrown away the ABS module and removed the wheel speed sensors, I might not go through the trouble of adding them back and buying the ABS module.

    - HVAC. Not optional, Houston is hot and sunny and I want cold air blowing on me.

    - Custom Hood Scoop

    - Custom Quarter Scoops

    - Custom tail lights

    - Custom rear bumper vents

    - Custom front bumper

    - panel stiffening additions

    - FFR Carbon Splitter

    - FFR Carbon Diffuser

    - FFR Carbon Rocker Extensions

    - Street Seats

    - WRX Center Console

    - Electric Parking Brake Caliper

    - InfinityBox wiring system (Already have this, got a great deal on it from a GT-R builder who didn't want it) with the A/C Control module for Vintage Air.

    - Cruise Control

    - Trunk Package

    Here are some things I've got questions about.

    - AWIC. I don't have radical plans for power, but would like to hit 275 - 300 hp for my ideal power to weight ratio. Also it will only be street use, so no extended hard driving. If I install this I will have to find a place to put the exchanger. With HVAC I will already have two exchangers up front and AWIC would make for a third, unless I put it in the enlarged quarter panel vents.

    - Oil cooler. Do I need this on a street only car?

    - What data can I get out of the stock ECU? I'd like to use dash command for gauges instead of the stock cluster. Google has come up empty on this research. I assume I can get RPM, Speed, Coolant Temp, IAT, Boost, Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature. I know I will need to come up with standalone indication for blinkers, E-brake, Brights, and fuel level.

    - Hydramat. Will this be sufficient for a street driven car, or do I need to contemplate custom baffling. My biggest concern in Houston is front to back, not side to side. There are lots of pretty steep ramps here for the interstate interchanges.

    Thanks for helping me with my questions, and here are some pretty bad sketches of my vision.

    IMG_0243.PNG

    IMG_0257.PNG

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  3. #2

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    aquillen's Avatar
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    Looking forward to your build. Gonna be a good one. From the sweet Mustang pix you clearly do excellent work.
    Art Quillen

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    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajzride View Post

    - Oil cooler. Do I need this on a street only car?
    If you kept the stock oil cooler / warmer you should be fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ajzride View Post
    - Hydramat. Will this be sufficient for a street driven car, or do I need to contemplate custom baffling. My biggest concern in Houston is front to back, not side to side. There are lots of pretty steep ramps here for the interstate interchanges.
    Hydramat is more than enough for a street car. I use it in my tracked 818R and have no issues with fuel starve.

    You should read some of the 818R build threads as well. We do some neat stuff that is not just for track cars.
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018

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    Excited to see another 818 build in H-town! Let me know if you need a hand or want to see my build. I need to update my build thread, but I'm about 3/4 of the way through.

    Also, I have a never used Hydromat I could give you at half price. I switched to the Boyd tank.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wirenut View Post
    Excited to see another 818 build in H-town! Let me know if you need a hand or want to see my build. I need to update my build thread, but I'm about 3/4 of the way through.

    Also, I have a never used Hydromat I could give you at half price. I switched to the Boyd tank.
    I would love to catch up with you in April. Which part of Houston are you in? I'm on 99 between Katy and Sugar Land. On the hydramat, you have a deal. When we meet up we can make the exchange.

    Quote Originally Posted by Hobby Racer View Post
    You should read some of the 818R build threads as well. We do some neat stuff that is not just for track cars.
    Thanks for the feedback. I would love to read the R threads as well, but to be honest just trying to read all of the S/C in 2 weeks has actually turned into a bit of a chore, adding another two dozen would make it a pure drag. I'll probably hit some of them when the search results start pointing me that direction.

    As an aside... has anyone figured out how to search just the 818 subforum? I can only seem to get it to search the entire forum, so I keep getting lots of Cobra results and very few 818 when I search.

    Thanks everyone.

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    Senior Member Hobby Racer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajzride View Post
    As an aside... has anyone figured out how to search just the 818 subforum? I can only seem to get it to search the entire forum, so I keep getting lots of Cobra results and very few 818 when I search.

    Thanks everyone.
    Use the Advanced Search in the upper right corner, under the search box.

    advanced.png
    MK3.1 Roadster completed 2011
    818R built with EZ36R H6 completed 2018

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hobby Racer View Post
    Use the Advanced Search in the upper right corner, under the search box.

    advanced.png
    The trick I was missing is that it was defaulting to “Search Multiple Content Types” and you have to toggle back to “search Single Content Types”.

    I had not even noticed those tabs up there, but your search engine looked different from mine so I started poking around.

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    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajzride View Post
    What data can I get out of the stock ECU? I'd like to use dash command for gauges instead of the stock cluster. Google has come up empty on this research. I assume I can get RPM, Speed, Coolant Temp, IAT, Boost, Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature. I know I will need to come up with standalone indication for blinkers, E-brake, Brights, and fuel level.
    You can get all of those through the ECU except oil temp and oil pressure. There is an oil pressure switch but it only reads if there is pressure above 2 psi, like an on/off switch. You'd have to get aftermarket gauges to data log the oil.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ajzride View Post
    As an aside... has anyone figured out how to search just the 818 subforum? I can only seem to get it to search the entire forum, so I keep getting lots of Cobra results and very few 818 when I search.
    You can also search the forum using google and adding this to your search: site:thefactoryfiveforum.com. I usually add 818 to whatever topic I search for and it does a good job.

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    Welcome and enjoy your build. I am running the stock oil cooler/warmer on my track car, it works fine with my power level (285whp). On a triple digit day rarely will I see over 230* oil temp.

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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    You can get all of those through the ECU except oil temp and oil pressure. There is an oil pressure switch but it only reads if there is pressure above 2 psi, like an on/off switch. You'd have to get aftermarket gauges to data log the oil.
    You can also search the forum using google and adding this to your search: site:thefactoryfiveforum.com. I usually add 818 to whatever topic I search for and it does a good job.
    When I did the TGV delete, I put the oil temp and pressure input into the ECU on the available analog inputs.
    Below is the display on my phone using the BTSSM app.
    Bob

    dash.jpg dash2.jpg
    Last edited by Bob_n_Cincy; 03-19-2019 at 11:57 AM.
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

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    Senior Member STiPWRD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    When I did the TGV delete, I put the oil temp and pressure input into the ECU on the available analog inputs.
    Below is the display on my phone using the BTSSM app.
    Bob

    dash.jpg dash2.jpg
    Bob, does the app allow you to manipulate the 0-5V TGV signal into something usable, like re-scaling for the correct oil pressure range? I was planning on doing this with ROM raider but didn't know it could be done on apps. I thought Dash command just reads what the ECU spits out. I'm not familiar with BTSSM, is it analogous to the rom raider data logger?

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    Senior Member AZPete's Avatar
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    Based on your Mustang, this 818 is going to be GOOD! I like your goal of a really nice street car since that's been my goal also, as you'll see when you find my build thread - actually a "built" thread. I've added about as many production car features as possible, except power brakes, and it drives like a production car. No, wait, it's quicker, more nimble and attracts more interest than most super cars. I don't miss power brakes but check out Turbomacncheese since he's pioneering PB.
    818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities.
    Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    When I did the TGV delete, I put the oil temp and pressure input into the ECU on the available analog inputs.
    Below is the display on my phone using the BTSSM app.
    Bob
    Good idea Bob, If I make my own custom dash in DashCommander I can easily put in a static scale so that the display looks correct.

  16. #14
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by STiPWRD View Post
    Bob, does the app allow you to manipulate the 0-5V TGV signal into something usable, like re-scaling for the correct oil pressure range? I was planning on doing this with ROM raider but didn't know it could be done on apps. I thought Dash command just reads what the ECU spits out. I'm not familiar with BTSSM, is it analogous to the rom raider data logger?
    The app allows scaling (multiplier) and offset. It also allow a trigger point that turns the gauge red and beeps the phone. You can do much more. watch this video.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-K_f4A6yeFg
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

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    Thanks for all the input everyone.

    I'm at a boring conference today and tomorrow, so I managed to get through all of page 2 except Wayne's VCP. It included some marathon builds including Andrew and Tamra's 37 page thread. I shouldn't have read Aero STI's thread, way too many cool ideas, a lot of which I was already thinking of some iteration of.

    Maybe tomorrow I can finish Wayne's thread and page 1.

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    No one warned me Frank's thread would be 44 pages long. It's the last one, doubt I will finish it today though. I have to get the mustang taped up to do a little repair painting so it is ready to go back outside before I start working on the 818 in the garage.

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    Project Execution Plan

    Looking for feedback on my order of operations to make sure I'm not about to make a mistake.

    So the car I'm picking up has the motor, transmission, cooling, suspension, and aluminum panels installed. My preference would have been to hang the body panels on an empty frame and do panel gapping before I added anything to the frame. Doing the body work on fiberglass can create a ton of dust that gets up inside everything and is a pain in the neck to clean up, but it's too late to take my preferred course of action. I also have some space limitations. I only have a 10x20 garage bay to keep the car in and do any messy work. I have another garage bay for doing work on small pieces at a bench suck as cutting/welding/drilling brackets etc. However SWMBO parks on that side and the kids keep their bikes there, so it has to stay clean.

    Therefore my current plan is to leave the car at my dads and bring home some pieces to work on. I am planning to bring all the body panels so that I can do the major modifications (side vent reshaping/enlarging, custom hood vent, custom nose, custom bumper) in the 10 x 20 bay. Then once I am finished making the major changes, I will bring the rest of the car in, remove the engine (have a friend do a leak-down and go through with a borescope) and transaxle (have OBX installed), tape up the cooling and suspension best I can while I work on setting panel gaps and getting them flush. Once the panels are gapped, flush, and reinforced I will finish the blocking on them outside while I start working on finishing the roller. Part of the panel gaps will be addressing getting the coupe door glass to work with the S windshield frame. Perhaps AZPete or someone else who has done an S to C conversion can give me some insight onto what I'm getting myself into there.

    So, here is my thinking:

    - Body Panel Mods

    - Fit side panels

    - Fit doors

    - Fit bumper

    - Fit trunk

    - Fit engine cover/back hatch

    - Fit fenders

    - Fit headlights

    - Fit Nose

    - Address door glass / window frame

    - Address top. I'm thinking right now just a custom fabric top but before I move on from body work i want investigate either a full removable hardtop, or converting to a targa style top. I have several ideas here that would entail lots of fiberglass mess.

    - Remove panels for later blocking/painting

    - Double check all PO installed components

    - Install seats and check ergonomics. Adjust firewall/steering wheel/ pedal box etc.

    - Address ABS install (go / no-go and then any work associated)

    - Stage HVAC

    - Wiring

    - Reinstall Engine/Transmission

    - Go kart

    - Address AWIC (go / no-go and then any work associated)

    - Address shifter (determine if stock is okay or if upgrade needed). I'm not a fan of the look of the FFR upgrade or the K-Tuned. I want something much more stock. So either Factory upgrade (a la Andrew and Tamra) or MR2 if I can't live with the stock one. My current stick is a 1969 Ford toploader, not short, precise, or quick. So the stock option may seem like a huge upgrade to me.

    - Dash/Console/Doorpanels

    - Remove all interior for bedliner + Sound deadener

    - Reinstall interior

    - Block + Painting

    - Final Assembly

    Thanks for the feedback.

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    Long Weekend

    Picture Heavy posts of the weekend. 1800+ Miles roundtrip to pick up the car. Will post some specific questions tonight either here or maybe in the sub forums.

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    Typically Slow

    When working on a project, I try to get 1-3 hours in on a single M-R night, and then get a good 6 hours in on Friday. Any time on Saturday or Sunday is a bonus. Last week I was traveling for work M-R, so I only got Friday in the garage, and I used that to prep my mustang's deck lid for paint (I dropped the bumper on it and put a huge gouge in it). This Friday will probably be spent cutting/buffing the mustang. However next week should start full time on the 818.

    My first sub-project will be the custom nose. I'm not a huge fan of the Camry lights, and I know there are issues aligning them due to the incorrect angle the nose puts them at, so I ordered something a little more modern looking, 2015 Honda Accord lights. They are almost the exact same size, have a nice DRL LED, and were very economically priced (versus say Audi S6 lights). They set in pretty close already, but I'm going to rework the nose completely to get the angle correct (more of an upward tilt from middle to edge). The Accord lights are straighter, and will eliminate some of the smiley face that the Camry lights produced.

    Close Right.png

    Front Center.png

    Front Left.png

    Front Right.jpg

    used-2015-honda-accord_sedan-4dri4cvtsport-12650-17180802-1-640.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Ajzride; 04-01-2019 at 04:59 PM.

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    Looks like you may have the bearing race in the smaller hole in the back of the trans/transfer case. Usually pull those out so they can't get loose in there on their own.
    Art Quillen

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    Quote Originally Posted by aquillen View Post
    Looks like you may have the bearing race in the smaller hole in the back of the trans/transfer case. Usually pull those out so they can't get loose in there on their own.
    Thanks for the tip. I’ll make a note to check this when I go back through the POs work on the trans.

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    Looking forward to see what you do with the headlights!

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    First Task!! First Task!!

    As is typically with my mustang project, it's taking longer to finish than I had planned. The entire project has been cursed (not on the level of Frank's VW build, but pretty bad), so I'm not surprised I don't have have it back together yet. However thanks to a tool malfunction and a determination to get started on the 818, I started on my first project today, modifying the nose.

    I'm going to start with getting the headlights installed, and then move on to customizing the lower section. I've done a lot of fiberglass modification before, and even made some parts from scratch, but when I started looking at how to modify the nose for these new headlights, set at a different angle, I really started to scratch my head. There are a lot of compound curves I'm going to be dealing with here. One thought I have is that I could bond the nose, hood, and fenders together into a clamshell like the GTM, then close up the hole for the headlights, and cut a new one. I'm not ruling that out, but I thought I would try something less drastic first. I'm basically going to try and close up the close for the headlights on the nose, cut a new hole for the new lights, and then modify the hood and fenders to fit as necessary.

    I'm working on some videos that I will post along with these pictures that will probably explain things a little better, but since I got interrupted today and didn't get to the point I wanted to, the video might not make much sense. I hope to get caught up tomorrow or Sunday and then post the video.

    The first thing I decided I needed to do was cut out the relief that exist for the current light, so that I can glass up the nose, and then cut a new relief that is shaped like the new light:

    01 - Front Unmolested.jpg

    02 - Side Unmolested.jpg

    03 - Drivers Side Cut.jpg

    Next I made a form from thin cardboard (think poster board) that I covered with packing tape, and laid on a layer of glass.

    04 - Ready for Glass.jpg

    05 - Supplies.jpg

    06 - Layer 1.jpg

    I wasn't totally thrilled with out the first layer came out. The weight of the resin was more than I had anticipated, and it made the cardboard sag. I used thin cardboard for flexibility, but it came at a cost of strength. Also the fiberglass cloth that I bought was not as flexible as what I usually use, and it bubbled in quite a few places, and wouldn't hug the edges. I'll definitely buying some more cloth with a finer weave for my first layers, and then build up with the courser cloth or traditional mat.

    It was at this point that I got interrupted by a work emergency that took away the rest of my day. Over the weekend I'll get 2-3 more layers of glass on, and also use glass to made a form of the headlight lens. Once I get the headlight lens form, I'll lay it against the nose and outline the angle of the headlight, and then cut my new relief.
    Last edited by Ajzride; 04-12-2019 at 09:43 PM.

  33. #30
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ajzride View Post
    One thought I have is that I could bond the nose, hood, and fenders together into a clamshell like the GTM, then close up the hole for the headlights, and cut a new one.

    I suggest you do the clamshell idea you mentioned. If you stiffen up the nose to fender joint. It will make it very difficult to get good hood to fender lines.
    Just my 2 cents.
    Bob
    818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
    My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
    My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread

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    Bob

    I'm going to have to completely re-contour the front of the fender and the hood anyways, clamshell or not. And It will be much easier to paint the car if I can keep the panels separate, so I'm going to try that first. Wouldn't be surprised if I wind up with a clamshell though.

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    Catching Up Video

    This video is from picking the car up, so it's al little late. Will be along in a few with a video on the first part of the nose.


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    Nose Trimmed for 1st Light

    Turns out I did way more work than I needed. I wound up cutting the nose pretty low to house the light at the angle I wanted. This is loosely mocked up, it will need to be recessed further back. My next project is getting it mounted solidly in the nose with bucket or brackets, then I can finish out how the light flows into the nose.

    Nose Trimmed for Light.jpg

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    Video on the headlights might make more sense than the pictures and ramblings I type up


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    Slower than expected

    I knew this was going to be a slow build, I think I guesstimated 2 years, but it is going even slower than I expected. I had about 5 weeks in a row where I made no progress because I was building my wife an outdoor kitchen for her anniversary, and then I've lost a couple of whole days to trying to finish the mustang. I've put 3 brand new door latches on the drivers door and it still will not latch properly. I'm stumped and I'm stepping away from it for a bit and will move on to finishing the window trim.

    In the meantime I've been thinking a lot about the 818 build and I think I've made some decisions that will change the course and order of my build.

    First is the big decision around the lights... I've bought into Bob's theory that it is going to be almost impossible to install custom lights in the old style nose where the fenders, nose, and hood are all 4 separate pieces and the lights install in between them. Looking at Andrew's LYTW8 and how he modified only one panel per headlight, couple with Art's attempt at a clamshell has emboldened me to try a clamshell as well. This will allow me to basically only have one panel per headlight as well.

    If I'm going to make a clamshell, then I basically need to get all of the body panels fit and in place before I glue the clamshell together, so I'm thinking I need to go for a more traditional body panel fitting process, and then start my fiberglass modifications. I was hoping to do most of it off-body to help with the mess, but alas it was not meant to be.

    I've also decided that if I am going to be doing a lot of panel fitting and removing, then I want to be able to move the car in and out of the bay to work on it because the bay is pretty tight. That means my first task is getting it to go-kart stage (wiring, clutch, shifter), so I'm starting to focus on what that is going to take.

    I had been intending to use the InfinityBox system I have for wiring, but the further I get into details, I'm thinking it is going to be overkill for what I have. I can't get a Gen-IV VintageAir that will fit in the 818, which means I can't use the touchscreen climate controls that InfinityBox offers. I'm also not going to have a ton of fans, lights, lifts, etc that would benefit having the touchscreen for either. So I'm really thinking about just using the stock harness and saving the InfinityBox for my next build, which will probably be much bigger (SLC, GT-R, GTM).

    I've managed to haul all of the parts except the actual chassis from my Dad's house to mine, and so my next trip there I will haul it back on a flatbed and be ready to start moving forwards. I think for now I'm going to focus on the wiring harness since that can be mostly worked on inside with some AC while it 100+ outside. Hopefully I'll be in go-kart stage by the fall and can do panel fitting and body mods during the cooler months. This all of course requires me to start making real progress rather than fiddling around with the last 5% on my mustang.

    I've think I've decided to upgrade the gas tank so I can get more room for the seat. I'm only 6'1", but I like to stretch out a fair bit. If I was tracking the car a closer upright seating position would be preferable, but for a weekend/cruiser being back and reclined is much more comfortable.

    Also having second thoughts on my color scheme (go figure).

    I also removed all the stuff stacked up around my chassis on the last load, so I could see my chassis number: F5R1002136ES

    Does that mean I'm chassis 136?
    Last edited by Ajzride; 06-12-2019 at 08:40 PM.

  39. #36
    Senior Member
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    Weird my new R model is F5R1000565, So the 2 is the S model I wonder what the ES is then? Suppose it is chassis 136.

  40. #37
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    I can't remember what gen Vintage system that came with the SLC, but I'm content with manual controls. Although maybe the reason for touchscreen is due to lack of dash space for the AC controls? If you can/want to go manual controls, I recommend upgrading the knobs to the aluminum ones. Looks better and bigger.

  41. #38
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    The only desire for the touchscreen was just to say I did it.

  42. Likes InfiniteReality liked this post
  43. #39
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    The Vintage Air Mini II I bought has electric controls that should work with the Infinity Box controls I would think. I haven't installed mine yet, but I am following instructions written by AZPete but with the newer-gen Mini. https://www.vintageair.com/builder-s...en%20II%20Mini

  44. #40
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    The mini-2 is a Gen-III, so it has electric controls, but not ECU controls. It will not work with the Infinity system

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