Looking for Advise and Options for installing the Body to the Frame. Rivnuts?? I have a Gen. 2 Frame and Body. Was thinking Rivnuts would be better for removing and installing multiple times.
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Looking for Advise and Options for installing the Body to the Frame. Rivnuts?? I have a Gen. 2 Frame and Body. Was thinking Rivnuts would be better for removing and installing multiple times.
FFR Hot Rod #1106
Rivnuts would work at the firewall, I drilled and tapped the frame along the side at the door sills and used a speed nut / clip on the rear where the bolt goes through from the outside of the rear wheel well.
CVOBill
MK2 #???? Delivered 11/2002, Finished and Titled 6/2003 5.0, T-5, 4-Link, Sold 3/2005
Hot Rod #304 purchased 5/28/2017 from original owner Unassembled . Titled and plated 8/24/2017 Coyote,
TKO, 3-Link, Heat, A/C, Electric Power Steering, Convertible top
MK4 #9524 Picked up 1/18/19 306 Blueprint, T-5, 4-Link, Gas-N Pipes, Heater
Drill and tap works fine for multiple uses on the hot rod tubing. Trust me, I think i have the forum record for the most assembly / disassembly cycles on the same car (except for the build school mule).
If you use rivenuts on the fiberglass use the type designed for plastics, no other rivnut holds anywhere near as good as these. I get mine from McMaster-Carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/97217A376
For drilling and tapping into the tubing I like 10-32 as you get a bit more thread engagement on the thin wall tubing. Remember, if using SS fasteners you need some form of lube or better yet, never-seize.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build