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Thread: Fi Tech Go EFI

  1. #1
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    Fi Tech Go EFI

    I’m sure this has been discussed at some point but I couldn’t find it in a search. Has anyone used this product and if so what was your experience? I’m not excited about drilling a 1” hole in my polished side pipes. I called the company and they recommended the 600 hp version for me even though my car only makes 400 hp. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Senior Member Robodent's Avatar
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    Call Mike forte he’s knowledgeable with Fi tech.
    FFR 35 p/u # 0016 Dart 347 TKO 600

  3. #3
    Papa's Avatar
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    You may want to consider getting some 4 into 1 into 4 headers to get your O2 sensor closer to the heads and still sample the full bank.
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  4. #4
    bobl's Avatar
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    I've installed quite a few of the various systems out there. I would take a close look at the Holley Sniper system also. I prefer it to the FiTech. No matter what system you go with it will require a wide band 02 sensor be placed in the exhaust. Either in the collector or one of the header pipes.
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Holley HP ECU, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 4.10 gears, A/C, PS, PB Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

  5. #5
    Senior Member John4337's Avatar
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    I’ve been very happy with mine, it replaced an old Powerjection unit that died. Driviblilty is great, mileage even went up a bit, telling me it’s more efficient. Drove from south Florida to the mountains in North Carolina with no problems. I’m running an x302 with the e cam and edelbrock rpm performer manifold. I have UTC exhaust, so the 02 sensor wasn’t an issue for me.

    Best of luck

    John
    FFR #7388 - Mk 4 Complete Kit w/ IRS, Ordered 10/21/10, Delivered 12/8/10. 302 with FiTech and Under Car Exhaust, Heat & A/C, Rod Top. Hard top and shop built side curtains added 2023.

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    Thanks, I am looking at the sniper unit now. I was told the O2 sensor could not be placed underneath the side pipe because at that angle, condensation would eventually kill the sensor. How did you accomplish this without the sensor sticking straight up visibly on the side pipe? I was also told by Holley that I could install the sensor underneath, get it dyno tuned and then “lock out” the O2 sensor essentially eliminating it. Please let me know your thoughts

  7. #7
    bobl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R8er View Post
    Thanks, I am looking at the sniper unit now. I was told the O2 sensor could not be placed underneath the side pipe because at that angle, condensation would eventually kill the sensor. How did you accomplish this without the sensor sticking straight up visibly on the side pipe? I was also told by Holley that I could install the sensor underneath, get it dyno tuned and then “lock out” the O2 sensor essentially eliminating it. Please let me know your thoughts
    There's been lots of discussion on 02 location. There are many that run them in the collector facing to the inside. Not the recommended placement but they seem to be holding up reasonably well.
    Mk IV Roadster, 347/516 HP, 8 stack injection, Holley HP ECU, Astro Performance T5, 3-Link 4.10 gears, A/C, PS, PB Purchased 08/2015, Graduated 02/2017

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    I would put the sensor in an individual header tube at the recommended distance from the cylinder. All the cylinders should be getting the same air fuel ratio more or less since it is throttle body fuel injection.
    www.breezeautomotive.com 2005 FFR Mk3 Roadster, 302/340hp, MassFlo EFI, Breeze Pulleys, T5, Aluminum Flywheel, 3-link rear with Torsen Diff and 3.27:1 gears, Power Steering, Breeze Front Sway Bar, SN-95 Spindles with outboard SAI Mod, Breeze Battery Mount, QA1 Externally Adjustable Shocks, Quick Release Steering Wheel, Vintage Race seats, GM Arctic White, Sky Blue Scoop, Hidden Hinges, Billet Aluminum Side-view Mirrors, 2,183lbs wet. 1967 Mustang Fastback, Dark Moss Green, black interior, '67 14" styled steel wheels, 2000 Explorer 302 w 5.0 Cam, Quickfuel 450 CFM, 289 Hi-Po Dual exhaust, C4, lowering springs w Shelby drop.

  9. #9
    Senior Member John4337's Avatar
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    I initially had mine in the number 4 tube, about 12 inches or so from the head, didn’t seem to cause any issues and was pretty well hidden. I moved it when I switched to under car exhaust.

    John
    FFR #7388 - Mk 4 Complete Kit w/ IRS, Ordered 10/21/10, Delivered 12/8/10. 302 with FiTech and Under Car Exhaust, Heat & A/C, Rod Top. Hard top and shop built side curtains added 2023.

  10. #10

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    Garry Bopp's Avatar
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    I have the FiTech Easy Street 600 and went with the sensor in the #4 tube. I was a little concerned about this so took the car to a local dyno tuner to check A/F ratios throughout the rpm range. I was very satisfied with the outcome. Just had to slightly enrich "wide open throttle" at 3,000 rpm and 6,000 rpm. My little 331 stroker put out 331 rwhp and 332 lb.ft. We only ran it up to 5,800 and the hp was still climbing at that point. Torque curve was nearly flat from 2,000 all the way to 5,800 ... great power band. Comp Cams XE 274, Edelbrock Performer RPM Airgap manifold and long tube headers. Great driveability and very happy with the setup.

    Garry
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  11. #11
    Senior Member skidd's Avatar
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    You can add my name to the FiTech list now... just finished the install today. No tuning done yet other than the initial setup. But, it's in and running.
    I opted to put the o2 sensor in the collector of the passenger side pipe. Angled down .. despite knowing this is not idea. But.. I don't care! Replacement o2 sensors are cheap and plentiful. And cheaper than trying to find a sexy way to hide the sensor going into the body or something. I read on some forum somewhere... where some guy had been runing his fitech with the o2 angled similar to mine, and it had been well over a year still with no failure.



    2016 MK4 | '99 Explorer 5.0 | E303&600cfm carb | T5z + 3.55 | 3-link | SN95 | PB/PS | FR500 17" 315&275 |

  12. #12
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    skidd's location is quite common. The problem is getting it perfect. If you can tack weld the bung in place on the car, then remove the pipe to finish weld it, that would be best. Otherwise the angle gets real touchy to get right. My thinking is that if you put it into the header in the tube for one of the two center cylinders, any cyl to cyl variation would be too minor to worry about. You can place it far enough from the head that it is at least partially hidden by the 3/4x3/4 frame tube and ,if on the driver side, the brake components help hide it to unless you have the Wilwood MCs inside the foot box..
    Last edited by CraigS; 06-24-2019 at 06:22 AM.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  13. #13
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    I’ve had mine installed since September of last year and all has been fine until issues with my RPM inconsistency. Engine is being fed too much fuel as RPMs are spiking. Interference on my blue wire. I have shielded it with a ground, still getting random RPMs at crank. What ignition system are you running? I have the Pertronix Ignitor II with Flamethrower II cool. Ignition module built into distributor. I’m having a lot of issues right now with RF noise. Anyone out there have a suggestion?182B0350-F3F0-46CA-A71D-5DD8A0742A8F.jpgAD53371F-7595-4F88-B3F0-AEEB0EE881DC.jpeg157D30CC-AC1D-49FD-9A0C-6FC8AA3ED799.jpg
    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  14. #14
    Senior Member John4337's Avatar
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    Is that a multi-spark coil?
    FFR #7388 - Mk 4 Complete Kit w/ IRS, Ordered 10/21/10, Delivered 12/8/10. 302 with FiTech and Under Car Exhaust, Heat & A/C, Rod Top. Hard top and shop built side curtains added 2023.

  15. #15
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    Turns out to be it was a bad ignition module. Put a new one in and she came to life. Fitech was reading my RPM’s correctly this time. These things happen. Pertronix covered it under their warranty so that’s good. Dialed in my IAC and she is running good.
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    Build#1: MKIV Roadster #9320

  16. #16
    Senior Member brewha's Avatar
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    If you’re comparing the 400 version to the 600 version of Fitech, I believe the 400 version is not as programmable as the 600. I installed my O2 in the number 3 tube similar to Gary and been running fine.

    So if and when I get my engine dyno’d in the future and if I need to adjust the AFR, my 600 version will allow me to do so. I think most of us have made some type of adjustment to the programming I hope that answers one of your original questions.
    Rich
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    Mark4 - 331 Stroker - Fitech 600 -TKO600 - Moser 3.55

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