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Thread: MJS Mk4 Build Thread

  1. #81
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    I personally try to install rivets so that whatever is exposed, wherever it is, the head is showing versus the crushed side. In this case, the inside of the footbox will be covered with insulation (you're doing that, right?) and carpet, and that will cover the "ugly" side of the rivet. As long as your rivets aren't overly long and crush down reasonably, I'd install them with the heads showing into the engine compartment. BTW, while nothing wrong with it, you're installing the rivets really close. Must like to squeeze those things, huh?
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  2. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    I personally try to install rivets so that whatever is exposed, wherever it is, the head is showing versus the crushed side. In this case, the inside of the footbox will be covered with insulation (you're doing that, right?) and carpet, and that will cover the "ugly" side of the rivet. As long as your rivets aren't overly long and crush down reasonably, I'd install them with the heads showing into the engine compartment. BTW, while nothing wrong with it, you're installing the rivets really close. Must like to squeeze those things, huh?
    Thanks for the info and recommendations I appreciate it!
    Agreed, I only did a close rivet spacing in this area as I was having some trouble keeping it well approximated. Probably overkill and didn’t really do that anywhere else. Yes I’m planning on insulation and believe I’ll use the lizard skin products so I’ll see how well they are flattening out on other areas before finishing this section.
    Thanks again all.

  3. #83
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    Def put the heads in the engine compartment. Using the standard rivets, the carpet will easily cover them up. And if someone IS looking at the car for details, like down in this area, you certainly dont want anyone seeing the ugly part of a tight row of pop rivets.
    ---Boyd---
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  4. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSumners View Post
    Header Question: Anyone using a Dart 347 EFI use shorty or long headers? And for any reason in particular?
    I am using DART 347 EFI. WE used shorty headers in the build school and put them on backwards. Then you need either a J pipe or CATS which is what I am using.

    Looks something like this

    Last edited by Mark Eaton; 05-04-2019 at 07:46 AM.
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  5. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Eaton View Post
    I am using DART 347 EFI. WE used shorty headers in the build school and put them on backwards. Then you need either a J pipe or CATS which is what I am using.

    Looks something like this

    Thanks for the info. Talked with Mike Forte pretty sure I will have what I’ll need.
    Your build is looking great!

  6. #86
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    Got the center section in. I would only echo what others have said that it’s a tight fit. Used 4 hoist points to help position and went inch by inch with no issue. Using the large drift punches for alignment definitely helped.


  7. #87
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    Finishing up the last of the panel work prior to powder coat.
    I can cover this pedal box hole if I’m doing hydraulic clutch correct? And the other small panel shown?
    Otherwise I plan to cover the small hole on the drivers side of the transmission tunnel and pre-drill the trunk access panels and access panel to the driver footbox.
    Anything else to drill out or cover prior to PC?
    Last edited by MSumners; 05-05-2019 at 08:03 PM.

  8. #88
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Yes the hole you're pointing to on the front footbox is for the clutch cable. You can cover it if you want. I use it for the hoses from the brake and clutch reservoir though. The hole in the small firewall extension can also be covered. Unlikely that you'll use it. But having said that, it's basically completely hidden. So if you cover it after the fact it doesn't hurt anything. The small hole in the DS of the transmission tunnel can also be filled. I've never used it. I believe it's left over from the donor harness days, but I'm not positive.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  9. #89
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    How hard to move should the IRS UCA be? Just after install and grease it still takes more than a nudge to get it to move at all. Tried opening up the mounts as much as possible with the threaded bar but the posterior mount will only adjust so far.
    Thanks for any advice.

  10. #90
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    The drivers side IRS UCA had a defect in the threads and the rod end assembly would only thread to this point where it was a hard stop. Tried a wire wheel but no-go. Called FF and they are sending one out. As usual great quick service.
    Last edited by MSumners; 05-06-2019 at 05:55 PM.

  11. #91
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    All panels fitted, marked, drilled, re-fitted often multiple times, de-burred and off to powder coat.
    How many drill bits did everyone else go through for this whole process?

  12. #92
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    Confirmed with F5 that there should be some drag on the UCA and require a hand to move it.

  13. #93
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    All metal and some random hardware back from powder coating. Turn-around time was only a day so came in ahead of schedule and under budget which hasn’t been the theme to this point.
    Went with plain Ford black for panels that will mostly be covered and Carbon metallic for the visible engine bay panels.

  14. #94

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    I've been debating wether to go satin black or satin clear, but until now landed on satin clear because I don't like the look of all the rivets standing out in aluminum on the black. I see now that black anodized rivets are readily available. Is that what you will be using? Would love to see how that would look like.

  15. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oystein View Post
    I've been debating wether to go satin black or satin clear, but until now landed on satin clear because I don't like the look of all the rivets standing out in aluminum on the black. I see now that black anodized rivets are readily available. Is that what you will be using? Would love to see how that would look like.
    I haven’t checked that out yet actually but may look into it. If I find some I’ll post after they’re placed.

  16. #96
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    Now that everything is powder coated. Putting the trunk and cockpit floor in won’t interfere with something down the road will it?

  17. #97

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    Quote Originally Posted by MSumners View Post
    I haven’t checked that out yet actually but may look into it. If I find some I’ll post after they’re placed.
    Great, thanks!

  18. #98
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    Question for the more experienced crew.
    I’m working on the Wilwood IRS brakes. Everything else is installed and torqued( UCA,LCA, Toe, hubs and CV shafts in, etc). Is it normal to have some play in the rotor and hub prior to final torquing of the hub nut? I have the hub nut turned down as far as I can without having some weight on one of the wheels for resistance and 3 lug nuts placed temporarily but snug. Despite this the rotor can rock back and forth about 2-3mm and moves with the hub and CV. If this is normal, what use is it being very exact in the rotor to caliper spacing at this point. I feel like I’m missing something here.
    Thanks for any advice.

  19. #99

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    Others more experienced than me will chime in, but my experience was that yes, you will feel some play in the rotor until the spindle nut is tightened down. However, since the rotor, caliper bracket and caliper are bolted to the hub, the relationship between rotor and caliper is fixed so your caliper to rotor spacing is not affected by this play. By the way, if you have the emergency brake calipers mounted, you can put a clamp on the two arms that the e-brake cable pulls on to tighten down the e-brake caliper and torque the spindle nuts even before mounting your wheels.
    MkIV Roadster build: Coyote, IRS, TKO600. Ordered 10/24/18. Delivered 1/29/19. Build thread here.

  20. #100
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSumners View Post
    Putting the trunk and cockpit floor in won’t interfere with something down the road will it?
    It won't actually interfere but will make running brake and fuel lines as well as wiring significantly more difficult because of the limited access. I always fit and drill the panels beforehand but don't permanently install them until the other items are done.

    Jeff

  21. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnK View Post
    Others more experienced than me will chime in, but my experience was that yes, you will feel some play in the rotor until the spindle nut is tightened down. However, since the rotor, caliper bracket and caliper are bolted to the hub, the relationship between rotor and caliper is fixed so your caliper to rotor spacing is not affected by this play. By the way, if you have the emergency brake calipers mounted, you can put a clamp on the two arms that the e-brake cable pulls on to tighten down the e-brake caliper and torque the spindle nuts even before mounting your wheels.
    Thanks I’ll try the Ebrake to tighten it down and recheck the movement.
    Thanks!

  22. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    It won't actually interfere but will make running brake and fuel lines as well as wiring significantly more difficult because of the limited access. I always fit and drill the panels beforehand but don't permanently install them until the other items are done.

    Jeff

    Thanks!
    I’ll wait to put these in, should be to brake / fuel lines fairly soon

  23. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSumners View Post
    Thanks I’ll try the Ebrake to tighten it down and recheck the movement.
    Thanks!
    Tried clamping the E-brake and torquing the hub nut down. That took out the last couple millimeters of play on the rotor.
    Thanks!
    Last edited by MSumners; 05-13-2019 at 06:45 PM.

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  25. #104
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    Settled on the black head rivets from McMaster for the visible areas to match the powder coat. Thought I may like the contrast to the bare aluminum rivets but after seeing these placed I am sold.

  26. #105
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    Question for the experienced here.
    When placing a Rivnut into the F-panel, despite practicing beforehand, I’ve set it and it was slightly cockeyed. I lightly thread a button head SS 10-32 into it to see if it would set down ok but got stuck and my attempt to bring it back out sheared the head off the screw as below. This reminds me of reviews at work where it’s sjasts a series of mistakes that build to a situation like this, ha.
    Before I get further into this I was considering options and wanted to see if someone has gone through this before.
    1: is it even possible to drill this out?
    2: if not I was considering taking the whole thing out either smallest hole saw possible and using a separate fastener here.
    3: if that failed or messed up the F panels I could always take them off and just start over here but that seemed extreme.
    Thanks again in advance!

  27. #106
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    It looks like there is enough of the screw sticking out to clamp a set of vice grips onto and screw it out. If you can do that then I would drill it out and replace. They are easy to drill out using a bit that just fits inside the rivnut.
    MKIV #9542 Complete Kit, Coyote, IRS - Delivered - 2-19-19
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    Build Thread HERE

  28. #107
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I'd use a Dremel with a cut off wheel on the backside and cut the expanded part of the rivnut off flush. Once you get it out you need to promise that you will never again install a stainless steel fastener dry...always use anti-seize (or just don't use stainless steel).

    Jeff

  29. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    I'd use a Dremel with a cut off wheel on the backside and cut the expanded part of the rivnut off flush. Once you get it out you need to promise that you will never again install a stainless steel fastener dry...always use anti-seize (or just don't use stainless steel).

    Jeff
    I’ll try the dremel cut-off when I get a chance.
    Deal on the SS anti-seize!

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  31. #109
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    antiseize.png
    x2 on Anti-Seize, but the stuff is diabolical - it gets everywhere.
    On machine screws, just a TINY dab on the 1st few threads will do. It'll spread out as it's threaded in and keep the threads from galling.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

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