-
11-23-2019, 08:09 PM
#241
Senior Member
For those that have used Lizard skin ceramic insulation. Was it the consistency of very thick tar? Even with mixing this stuff there is no way it’s going to ‘pour’. I would have to spoon it into the sprayer I think to transfer it. Seems completely different than the picture they show of it being poured.
-
11-23-2019, 08:25 PM
#242
Senior Member
Originally Posted by
MSumners
For those that have used Lizard skin ceramic insulation. Was it the consistency of very thick tar? Even with mixing this stuff there is no way it’s going to ‘pour’. I would have to spoon it into the sprayer I think to transfer it. Seems completely different than the picture they show of it being poured.
Agreed. The ceramic doesn't easily pour. Hard to describe the consistency exactly. It's light, so not really like tar in my experience. More like real thick cake batter. (How's that for scientific?) Bottom line is whether it will spray OK. Using the Lizard Skin gun, I found the best setting was about 70 PSI and 2 turns out on the nozzle.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
-
11-23-2019, 09:11 PM
#243
Senior Member
Originally Posted by
edwardb
Agreed. The ceramic doesn't easily pour. Hard to describe the consistency exactly. It's light, so not really like tar in my experience. More like real thick cake batter. (How's that for scientific?) Bottom line is whether it will spray OK. Using the Lizard Skin gun, I found the best setting was about 70 PSI and 2 turns out on the nozzle.
The cake batter is a perfect description.
On first trial at 70Psi wouldn’t spray at all. Watered it down just a bit, still thick and seems to spray ok.
-
11-23-2019, 09:56 PM
#244
Senior Member
Originally Posted by
MSumners
��
The cake batter is a perfect description.
On first trial at 70Psi wouldn’t spray at all. Watered it down just a bit, still thick and seems to spray ok.
Sounds like you have it under control. As long as you get the thickness you want, and it dries OK, (which it should) you will be fine.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
-
11-27-2019, 10:44 PM
#245
Senior Member
Just finished a 7 day on-call brutal rounding week and looking forward to hopefully some good build time over the weekend.
I finished lizard skin and plan to work on throttle, engine fuel lines, clutch.
It’s time to seriously narrow down and make decisions on paint scheme in the next couple months. Outside of random builds were there any resources anyone used for options?
Last edited by MSumners; 11-27-2019 at 10:47 PM.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
11-29-2019, 11:56 PM
#246
Senior Member
A bit of progress finishing up the fuel lines and starting on the Forte mechanical throttle linkage.
Having the adjustability in the system with the threaded sleeve makes a lot of sense. It’s reverse threaded on one end so you can just loosen the jam-nuts and make adjustments.
I certainly wish I would have left the top of the footbox off until this was finished. Not impossible to do but makes getting wrenches in and out more difficult. As usual everything is in and out enough times that I lost count with continual small adjustments.
Has anyone found a 3/8 shaft size flange bearing that will work for the rod going into the footbox?
Last edited by MSumners; 11-30-2019 at 12:07 AM.
-
11-30-2019, 03:36 PM
#247
Senior Member
Forte mech throttle questions:
What is a ‘normal’ pedal travel ? My current setup gets about 1.5” but seems like it would be too sensitive.
Is it common/necessary to put grooves and set screws through the arms that the rod ends attach to?
-
11-30-2019, 11:36 PM
#248
Senior Member
-
12-01-2019, 05:58 PM
#249
Great work so far, definitely helps me plan my build out. Should have it delivered by end of Dec. As far as tires, I see you went with the Toyo R888R. What led you to that over other options? What I am finding is that the options are surprisingly thin for the spec'd sizes for 18" wheels.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
-
12-01-2019, 09:29 PM
#250
Senior Member
Originally Posted by
BradCraig
Great work so far, definitely helps me plan my build out. Should have it delivered by end of Dec. As far as tires, I see you went with the Toyo R888R. What led you to that over other options? What I am finding is that the options are surprisingly thin for the spec'd sizes for 18" wheels.
I as well found few options for a set with all four tires and this was one of them. My decision was really simply based on recommendations of a few others that have used them and had no complaints and that they stick like glue. I however do not plan to test their limit anytime soon.
-
12-01-2019, 11:54 PM
#251
That sleeved grommet with a bushing is pretty slick! I wish I had thought of that...
-
12-01-2019, 11:55 PM
#252
That sleeved grommet with a bushing is pretty slick! I wish I had thought of that...
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
-
12-02-2019, 09:54 PM
#253
Senior Member
-
12-08-2019, 10:38 AM
#254
Senior Member
Working through the wiring and all is coming along.
Going to work on fitting the dash soon and make it removable as is commonly done.
Is it reasonable to install the dash without the body on for exact placement?
When looking from the engine bay to the rear, does the top center of the dash get lined up flush with the top of the hoop ?
-
12-08-2019, 11:22 AM
#255
Not a waxer
Originally Posted by
MSumners
When looking from the engine bay to the rear, does the top center of the dash get lined up flush with the top of the hoop ?
No. There is often variation in the curve of the hoop so don't use the top/center of it as your locator . Set the dash so that you have approximately 3/16" of the end of the curved hoop visible above the dash like I show here:
Jeff
-
12-08-2019, 01:56 PM
#256
Senior Member
Perfect, thank you sir!
Originally Posted by
Jeff Kleiner
No. There is often variation in the curve of the hoop so don't use the top/center of it as your locator . Set the dash so that you have approximately 3/16" of the end of the curved hoop visible above the dash like I show here:
Jeff
-
12-19-2019, 10:40 PM
#257
Senior Member
I assume these thumbscrews would interfere with the body or be inaccessible, or both?
-
12-22-2019, 01:07 PM
#258
Senior Member
Does this whole hex shaped barrel get removed to screw in the oil pressure sender?
The threads on the sender are 3/8 fine.
-
12-22-2019, 07:31 PM
#259
The hex extension stays on the engine. It should have female pipe threads where the black cap is.
If your sending unit is not pipe threads, you will need an adapter.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
-
12-22-2019, 07:34 PM
#260
On the foot box access panel, you might be able to use the lowest one. The top two would not work on mine.
Last edited by Railroad; 12-23-2019 at 10:30 AM.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
-
12-22-2019, 10:44 PM
#261
Senior Member
-
12-28-2019, 11:35 AM
#262
Senior Member
“I assume these thumbscrews would interfere with the body or be inaccessible, or both?l
The top ones will most definitely not fit or be accessible. You could use the lower ones and across the top just notch the hatch and use rivnuts, just don’t tighten those all the way down. That way you can slide the top part of the hatch into position and use the lower ones to hold it tight.
Bradley
Build thread - Mk4, Coyote, IRS, Wilwood brakes, old-style soft top and accessories.
The distance between "finished" and finished is literally infinite.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
-
12-28-2019, 04:58 PM
#263
Senior Member
Wiring slowly continues
I think I have all the routing figured out. Just a matter of terminating and getting it organized.
Put the battery in and it fits like a glove in the Breeze front box.
Last edited by MSumners; 12-28-2019 at 05:42 PM.
-
12-29-2019, 12:14 AM
#264
Senior Member
Will mounting the horns as shown interfere with anything ?
-
12-29-2019, 11:23 AM
#265
[QUOTE=MSumners;393457]Will mounting the horns as shown interfere with anything ?
That horn on the inside might interfere with your radiator cowl/surround panel depending on what you decide to do with those.
Mark
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
12-30-2019, 10:54 PM
#266
Senior Member
Thanks again everyone for all the help
Anyone run into this fuel pump relay jumper connection that looks quite different than the manual?
Last edited by MSumners; 12-31-2019 at 08:20 AM.
-
12-31-2019, 07:18 AM
#267
Senior Member
Interesting. Looks like another version of the Ron Francis harness. Has changed several times with the several I've used. Not unusual, unfortunately, for the Factory Five manual to not keep up. Hopefully though the RF wiring manual you received is showing the version you have. That relay enables the fuel pump inertia switch. In that picture, they're using different sources to power the fuel pump (the brown wire on the LH side of the relay looking at the picture) and the relay coil (the orange wire at the bottom of the relay). In the previous version, the first picture you posted, there's a jumper powering both off the same source. Not sure why the difference. Either accomplishes the same thing. Not sure about your specific setup. You can break into either wire, and have your external EFI system power either the fuel pump directly or the relay coil.
FYI, the inertia switch provides the ground connection for that relay. If the ground is open (e.g. inertia switch triggered) then the relay breaks the power connection to the fuel pump. The brown wire on the RH side of the relay, looking at the picture, is the power feed going to the fuel pump.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
-
01-02-2020, 06:12 PM
#268
Senior Member
For anyone like me new to wiring and harness work I would recommend getting the free catalog from Ron Francis. The back of it has a good sized section on basics and general rules/tips.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 2 Thanks, 0 Likes
-
01-15-2020, 12:27 AM
#269
Senior Member
This picture accurately summarizes my recent work.
Currently carefully going through all the alterations to work with the Classic Instruments gauges and learning a lot along the way. I thought I wouldn’t like the wiring but actually truly enjoy doing it. Definitely a steep learning curve here.
Nearly everything is wired and first start attempt should be soon. The final two connections are still the FiTech to fuse panel for the pump and fan. I need to review those connections again to make sure I know exactly where I’m tying into. From what I’ve read there seems to be a difference in whether you decide to utilize the inertia switch and relay or simply connect straight to the fuel pump. It appears this may affect some settings on the FiTech based on what specific fuel pump is being used. Again, more research is needed.
Waiting on pipes from Gas’n and will likely be ready for first start when they arrive.
You’ll also notice the 4awg ground wire in the box. ‘Someone’ cut that one a hair too short.
Last edited by MSumners; 01-15-2020 at 12:36 AM.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
01-23-2020, 01:29 PM
#270
Senior Member
Pulled the headers out to get ready for install and noticed I didn’t have bolts for this connection.
Does anyone recall if they were packed with the headers in the same box or elsewhere? Maybe I missed that somehow in the inventory.
-
01-23-2020, 01:46 PM
#271
On mine, those bolts were already in place holding the two pieces together IIRC. The header bolts for the the motor were in a plastic bag in the box.
They are grade 5 hardware bolts and locking nuts. I can measure mine for you if you just want to pick them up at Ace.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
01-23-2020, 04:30 PM
#272
Senior Member
That would be great thanks !
Distorted lock nuts I assume?
-
01-23-2020, 07:33 PM
#273
Senior Member
When I looked at the headers closer I noticed both of the ends had some damage to them and don’t look like they would be able to form a seal.
Last edited by MSumners; 01-23-2020 at 07:38 PM.
-
01-23-2020, 09:38 PM
#274
Originally Posted by
MSumners
That would be great thanks !
Distorted lock nuts I assume?
I think these are grade 5 with a flange. I am including a picture just in case I am wrong. Yes, an evil distorted locking nut that exhausts my puny arm muscles.
2.5" long, 3/8-16
Last edited by TMartinLVNV; 01-23-2020 at 09:41 PM.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
-
01-23-2020, 09:40 PM
#275
I am not a metallurgist and I did not stay at a Holiday Inn last night. But the headers are stainless steel and are pretty soft. My guess is that when you join the two parts together and tighten the nuts, they will distort to create a seal pretty easily.
MK IV Build #9659, 3 link, 17's, Forte 347, Sniper EFI, power steering, built for a freak sized person with 17" Kirkey Vintage seats, RT drop trunk, RT turn signal, lots of stuff from Breeze Automotive, Wilwood brakes, paint by Jeff Miller
-
Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
-
01-24-2020, 08:12 PM
#276
Senior Member
That's a good thought maybe they would. I honestly have no idea. Anyone else have any thoughts on whether this would seal up or not?
I planned to contact FFR today but as usual work was busy from minute-one and the next time I looked up it was 6pm.
Thanks for any thoughts.
-
01-25-2020, 05:44 PM
#277
Senior Member
Knocked a couple things off the list today. Something I was putting off was dismantling the mech throttle and pinning the arms to the SS bar. I realized with everything installed getting a wrench into the pedal box was going to be nearly impossible. I ended up drilling and tapping 10-32 through the arm and SS bar and securing with a 3/4” set screw.
Then finished up the fuel vent.
Last edited by MSumners; 01-25-2020 at 05:47 PM.
-
Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
-
01-26-2020, 10:54 AM
#278
Originally Posted by
MSumners
That's a good thought maybe they would. I honestly have no idea. Anyone else have any thoughts on whether this would seal up or not?
I planned to contact FFR today but as usual work was busy from minute-one and the next time I looked up it was 6pm.
Thanks for any thoughts.
They will seal up fine. You can pull that dent up with an adjustable wrench. If you like put a little smear of anti seize on the contact circle. Put just enough you know it is there, no globs or beads. Do not over tighten the bolts. You can always snug it up, if you need too.
Last edited by Railroad; 01-26-2020 at 10:57 AM.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
-
01-26-2020, 06:09 PM
#279
Senior Member
Thank you sir!
Ready to install and I’ll take the recommendation on the anti seize too.
Originally Posted by
Railroad
They will seal up fine. You can pull that dent up with an adjustable wrench. If you like put a little smear of anti seize on the contact circle. Put just enough you know it is there, no globs or beads. Do not over tighten the bolts. You can always snug it up, if you need too.
-
01-28-2020, 09:23 AM
#280
Senior Member
The header gasket is flat on one side and has this small raised ridge on the other. Does the flat side face the header ?