Leaking Valve covers

[Murd]

Looking for advice on fixing my leaking valve covers. SBF, GT40 Y303 alum heads, using the felpro molded rubber steel core gaskets, SFL1684 I believe. Valve covers are cast aluminum ford racing.
These always leaked on me, the mechanic who saftied my car last spring suggested what they do since the mating surface on the cast covers is rough, is put "The Right Stuff" between the gasket and the valve covers, , which I did.

It seemed to stop leaking for a while before starting again, and seeming to get worse. I just pulled off the drivers side, was able to pull the gasket with the right stuff off the covers clean, but its stuck to the gaskets forever so unless someone thinks gooping on more right stuff over the old is the solution, I think these gaskets are toast.

Looking for suggestions on how to best seal these covers on. I do have some new Felpro cork gaskets I could use, looking forward to finding the silver bullet for this one.

Thanks in advance.

[broku518]

My cork based gasket kept leaking, switched to Fel-Pro blue silicon one. Didn't use any paste or sealant.
No issues.

[Murd]

I think I may have answered my own question. I think 3 of my bolts on each side, the ones for my plug wire looms, are just a hair too long and bottoming out without compressing the gasket.

[Derald Rice]

I use weatherstrip adhesive on the valve cover side of the gasket, and since heads on a SBF are milled, I do not use anything at all on the head side of the gasket. I also use cork gaskets. No leaks.

Derald.

[rich grsc]

I think I may have answered my own question. I think 3 of my bolts on each side, the ones for my plug wire looms, are just a hair too long and bottoming out without compressing the gasket.

Yep, I think that will explain your leak.

[CraigS]

Not that they had anything to do w/ fixing leaks but a couple of years ago I switched to ARP VC studs. It's really nice to drop the gasket over the studs, drop the VC over the studs, drop star washers over the studs, and then tighten nuts. I use coupling nuts just because they are longer and fit into the deep socket better. Run them down by finger til they touch the washers, switch to my shorty ratchet and 9 inch extension for final tightening. I run the steel core blue silicone Felpros and have never had a leak.

[NAZ]

The gaskets you describe are the best I've found and do not use any sealant with these. And if your fasteners are too long that would certainly explain the leak so give that style gasket a second chance but without smearing any type of sealant.

[Derald Rice]

Not that they had anything to do w/ fixing leaks but a couple of years ago I switched to ARP VC studs. It's really nice to drop the gasket over the studs, drop the VC over the studs, drop star washers over the studs, and then tighten nuts. I use coupling nuts just because they are longer and fit into the deep socket better. Run them down by finger til they touch the washers, switch to my shorty ratchet and 9 inch extension for final tightening. I run the steel core blue silicone Felpros and have never had a leak.

I agree about using the studs, they make life a lot easier. But, instead of using ARP, I use these: McMaster 91375A548. A lot cheaper and a VC bolt is not a high stress fastener. Also use a flanged nylon nut, McMaster 93298A110.

Just another option to be considered.

Derald.

[Murd]

Thanks all,
I’ve got the bolts cut down 1/4” that were too long and have it back together. Spring is trying here, probably first start of the season Wednesday, let it warm up and see how it did.
If it leaks, Next step will new gaskets installed with no sealant.
The studs do look sweet, I don’t think they will work with the wire looms I have though. 3 on each side would have to be twice the length.
Thanks again for the advice.

[Derald Rice]

The studs do look sweet, I don’t think they will work with the wire looms I have though. 3 on each side would have to be twice the length.

Those McMaster set screws go up to 5 inches. Is that long enough ??

[Bob Cowan]

Make your won studs. Cut the head of some bolts, and cut a screwdriver slot in the end.

[Murd]

Without explaining or posting a pic I’m going to say that again the wire looms I have, which mount on 3/side of the valve cover bolts, are not stud friendly.
Also, I live in Canada, so ordering anything from Mcmaster or anyone else in the usa tends to get very expensive with shipping and customs brokerage.
I also don’t find it difficult to install the valve covers with those gaskets. The holes are very tight so if you put 2 or 3 bolts through it holds the gasket to the covers.
It’s all back together now, cut my bolts to the right length, fingers crossed for no leaks!

[NAZ]

What I typically use to hold my valve covers on is cap screws with a length that puts the hex head just above the valve cover where they're easy to spin off by hand once loose. I use flange nuts installed on the threaded portion with locktite. The serrated flange nuts help keep the fasteners tight. This makes pulling valve covers so much easier when you have to adjust valves.

Here's a shot of my valve covers with fasteners installed and one laying on top so you see what I'm describing. Way easier than working with short cap screws in these areas.


Valve Cover Fasteners.jpg

[canuck1]

Without explaining or posting a pic I’m going to say that again the wire looms I have, which mount on 3/side of the valve cover bolts, are not stud friendly.
Also, I live in Canada, so ordering anything from Mcmaster or anyone else in the usa tends to get very expensive with shipping and customs brokerage.
I also don’t find it difficult to install the valve covers with those gaskets. The holes are very tight so if you put 2 or 3 bolts through it holds the gasket to the covers.
It’s all back together now, cut my bolts to the right length, fingers crossed for no leaks!

I'm sure you have your solution in hand, but if you are like me, you will end up owning more than one set of valve covers. Some of mine are sheet metal, some are cast aluminum and the thickness of the cover meant I had to be diligent about allowing for the flange thickness as well as whatever gasket I used. I stole the idea from someone else (probably Bob Cowan!) but I decided studs in the heads would make swapping valve covers simpler and avoid leaks due to bolts bottoming out. I also have wire looms/brackets that are secured by the valve cover bolts. To get around this, I used studs in the heads (long enough for any of my valve cover/gasket combos) and then secured the valve covers with 1/4" threaded couplers like this:

the-hillman-group-rod-coupling-nuts-45132-64_400_compressed.jpg

This allowed me to retain a threaded hole to secure my wire loom/brackets. I didn't take this picture to demonstrate my valve cover hardware so it's not especially clear, but its the only one I could find. If you zoom in you can see a portion of a coupling nut and also my wire loom/brackets secured with an allen bolt into the coupling nuts:

P1110207.jpg


In the areas where I didn't need to secure a wire loom/bracket, I could have used a regular nut, but opted to simply use the coupling nuts on those studs as well. It looks OK to me. As an added bonus, they are really easy to get a socket on to loosen or tighten without scratching the powder coated valve covers and they also spin on/off easily with your fingers when loose.

Sean

[boat737]

I've had a leaky/seeping DS valve cover since new, about 750 miles now. 50 miles ago, I put in a Moroso gasket, and after 3 heat cycles, looks like it's fixed. Still bone dry around the valve cover. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93060. I have Edelbrock Alum. heads with the Ford Performance cast tall valve cover. The Moroso gasket is a silicone rubber over a metal frame.