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Thread: Engine Location - Sanity check

  1. #1

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    Engine Location - Sanity check

    Finally at engine install stage. Have a few challenges based on my selections. Unless I have something wrong with the engine as mounted:

    1) Will need a driveshaft that is only 6" long TOTAL. The supplied drive shaft is about 8.5 inches long and the shaft is only about 2 inches of that length. (T-56 MAG 6 speed is the cause)

    2) Will need to shorten one of the copper pipes coming out of the heater/defroster. I guess the firewall forward was not the best idea but I really like the extra room for wiring, ductwork, and glovebox.


    Does anyone have the dimension from outer edge of the passenger footbox and the center line of the headers? Do the headers appear to be in the correct location front to back?

    Thanks.

    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  2. #2

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    I can't help you with the drive shaft length, but can tell you that the driver's side header needs to be about 2.0" in front of the foot box.

    You can see where my header exists in the beginning of the attached 1st video.
    https://youtu.be/_wnHDNgnNqs

    It lined up perfectly with the side pipe opening in the body which can be seen in the 2nd video.
    https://youtu.be/wOID7yvBRPU

    Good Luck From The Dark-Dart Side!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 03-27-2019 at 03:48 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    I had the same problem with the heater pipes interfering with the valve covers after moving the firewall forward. I cut the screw fittings off and put a bead around the stub using https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (it's not much of a bead, but it's enough). Then I used 90* rubber elbows to come off the heater pipes & couplers to the hoses.

    Don't forget to put painter's tape under the couplers while you're getting everything tightened up. Otherwise, you'll scratch up the paint (not that I would know anything about that of course).


    John

    IMG_3462 by jhsitton, on Flickr

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    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  4. #4
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    Looks like that is an IRS diff, so a 6 in shaft will be fine. Call your local drive shaft shop and ask them how they want you to measure. Mine said surface of the diff flange (+ adapter) to rearmost edge of trans seal.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  5. #5
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    So the Magnum transmission did fit. I was told it did not

  6. #6

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    The side of the Magnum might touch the parking brake bracket but does not appear to interfere with its operation. Will need to consider the impact of engine/transmission vibration. Worst case may need to find an alternate parking brake handle or use the control valve approach on the main brakes. My son still wants the e-brake, can't imagine why We did cut a cross brace on top of the tunnel in order to install without removing the shifter.
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  7. #7
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by miller7448 View Post
    We did cut a cross brace on top of the tunnel in order to install without removing the shifter.
    You cut your frame rather than take 4 bolts out? The shifter lifts right out and pops back in.

  8. #8

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    Yeah, inexperience. I'll weld the cross member back in. Jumped to the wrong conclusion since multiple sources said a cross member needed to be removed to install the Magnum.
    Last edited by miller7448; 03-28-2019 at 01:28 PM.
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  9. #9
    Senior Member Packer fan's Avatar
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    You might also want to use a Mike Williams slip yoke on your drive shaft so you don’t have to install the driveshaft while installing the engine. https://www.markwilliams.com/transmi....html?page=all
    I have a coyote with the t56 magnum and IRS. My drive shaft will not go in after the engine is installed without it.
    Mk4 ordered 1/3/18, IRS, Coyote, T56 Magnum

  10. #10

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    Pardon my inexperience. Looked up slip yoke, is the slip yoke the first part on the left of the drive shaft assemble in this picture? Unless I have a driveshaft that easily disassembles there is no way I will be able to install the drive shaft after engine installation. With only 6” total, and the slip yoke being several inches long, there is not enough room to bend the shaft into place. Not too big an issue as I hope to not have to replace the drive shaft too often. Related question, do I apply grease to the slip yoke during assemble?

    Thanks


    Import Number 2 5105.jpg
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  11. #11
    Senior Member Duke's Avatar
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by miller7448 View Post

    Related question, do I apply grease to the slip yoke during assemble?
    Just use transmission fluid to lube the yoke.

    I think the yoke suggestion envisioned a bolt together yoke as pictured below:


    s-l225_thumbnail.jpg

  13. #13

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    Thanks Duke, I sent a request to Mitchell to see if they can do 6". The first shop said the shortest they have ever done is 12".
    Mk4, IRS, (Forte: 427 with EFI, T-56 MAG, hydraulic clutch, mechanical linkage, reverse lockout control module) (Breeze: Front and Rear Double adjustable QA1's, Cockpit cubby, LED Lights, Fan Shroud, Fan Lower Support, Oil Cooler Coil, power steering hose kit) (Russ: Drop Trunk, Turn Signal)

  14. #14
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    I didn’t do a firewall forward but, did make a mounting box to move the heater forward to allow for a deeper glovebox. This along with the valve cover spacers needed for clearance issues with my roller rockers resulted in a modification being required on the heater tubes. Here are a couple of pictures of the parts used ( screen shots from the web ) and how I ran the heater lines. Good luck with your driveshaft.

    HTH

    Norm

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