I haven't posted here in years, been busy. Anyway, my Lucas switches have been replaced twice now and I'm tired of spending $200 each time to change them out. I was looking around for a suitable replacement and came across the Ron Francis Synergy Series switches. They have a polished nut/bezel like the Lucas switches. They require a 7/16" hole which means I'll be 3D printing some spacers to keep them centered but that isn't a big deal. Has anyone used them? I'm thinking I'll be taking a chance on them unless there are some bad reviews.
www.AIMFlight.com
FFR MK3.1 7075 Delivered: 10/13/09
408w carbed, TKO 600, IRS (3.27 with Torsen), dual roll bars, halibrand replicas, SS side pipes, rivet on hood scoop, SAI mod
Yeah... I've got a couple. Nice heavy duty switch. Nice feel to them. Aint cheap though. Looks like my bezels are different. Maybe they have options.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it. Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch. Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Yeah... I've got a couple. Nice heavy duty switch. Nice feel to them. Aint cheap though. Looks like my bezels are different. Maybe they have options.
Those look like the Classic Series correct? Larger bezel but same build quality. I'm ok with the price if I only have to buy them once.
www.AIMFlight.com
FFR MK3.1 7075 Delivered: 10/13/09
408w carbed, TKO 600, IRS (3.27 with Torsen), dual roll bars, halibrand replicas, SS side pipes, rivet on hood scoop, SAI mod
It's been a few years now, so I don't remember the model/series. I did get the knobs and bezels for the heater (fan and temp) and headlight as well. So at least they all seem to match.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it. Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch. Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Yeah, no kidding... the only reason I've only had to replace them twice is I have 3,000 miles on the car since 2009. Also had a few engine issues as I learned what the wrong distributor gear can do to a cam gear. Anyway, I'm gonna probably order these after I re-acquaint myself with the needed functionality from the switch. I know I need a couple off-on switches and an on-on. I'm thinking I also need an off-on-on but I don't see one of those from Ron Francis. I need to get out my electrical notes, I did everything with relays so I'm not worried about amps but more how I actually wired the switches
www.AIMFlight.com
FFR MK3.1 7075 Delivered: 10/13/09
408w carbed, TKO 600, IRS (3.27 with Torsen), dual roll bars, halibrand replicas, SS side pipes, rivet on hood scoop, SAI mod
Almost every switch in my car is Ron Francis. I refused to put plastic-bodied, 5A switches in. The RF switches use all metal bodies and are rated for 20-30A, depending on the switch. They have a nice feel to them. Expensive, but you'll hopefully only buy once. I didnt use their bezels, found them too large and bulky and too big to use on a panel with foam, leather and a round switch label. I found some black brass switch nuts to hold em all in.
Almost every switch in my car is Ron Francis. I refused to put plastic-bodied, 5A switches in. The RF switches use all metal bodies and are rated for 20-30A, depending on the switch. They have a nice feel to them. Expensive, but you'll hopefully only buy once. I didnt use their bezels, found them too large and bulky and too big to use on a panel with foam, leather and a round switch label. I found some black brass switch nuts to hold em all in.
Anyways, but yeah, RF sells some good stuff.
Do you happen to have a link to the black brass nuts? I kind of like the chrome but was wondering if it was going to be too much for my understated dash. If so, I'd like to tone it down a little. I'm hoping they will be fine though.
www.AIMFlight.com
FFR MK3.1 7075 Delivered: 10/13/09
408w carbed, TKO 600, IRS (3.27 with Torsen), dual roll bars, halibrand replicas, SS side pipes, rivet on hood scoop, SAI mod
Do you happen to have a link to the black brass nuts? I kind of like the chrome but was wondering if it was going to be too much for my understated dash. If so, I'd like to tone it down a little. I'm hoping they will be fine though.
This is what I got, but I paid about 1/2 that much for a bag of 10. Guess after I bought a bag, they realized someone might want more so they doubled the price. You can find all kinds of stuff out there, tho. I think they are 15/32", but dont buy for yours based on me. Double check.
This is what I got, but I paid about 1/2 that much for a bag of 10. Guess after I bought a bag, they realized someone might want more so they doubled the price. You can find all kinds of stuff out there, tho. I think they are 15/32", but dont buy for yours based on me. Double check.
Perfect, those look really nice, might be more fitting for my dash. I'll verify when I get the switches and double check the size/pitch if I do order some. They sure are proud of those but for the right look it will be worth it.
www.AIMFlight.com
FFR MK3.1 7075 Delivered: 10/13/09
408w carbed, TKO 600, IRS (3.27 with Torsen), dual roll bars, halibrand replicas, SS side pipes, rivet on hood scoop, SAI mod
Perfect, those look really nice, might be more fitting for my dash. I'll verify when I get the switches and double check the size/pitch if I do order some. They sure are proud of those but for the right look it will be worth it.
If you get em, or something like them, use some padded pliers when tightening, and dont you dare slip. Once they are scratched, that brass underneath shines thru like a $100 led flashlight.
If you get em, or something like them, use some padded pliers when tightening, and dont you dare slip. Once they are scratched, that brass underneath shines thru like a $100 led flashlight.
Yeah, I was thinking of plasti-dipping some pliers for the chrome bezels and would likely do the same for these.
www.AIMFlight.com
FFR MK3.1 7075 Delivered: 10/13/09
408w carbed, TKO 600, IRS (3.27 with Torsen), dual roll bars, halibrand replicas, SS side pipes, rivet on hood scoop, SAI mod
If you get em, or something like them, use some padded pliers when tightening, and dont you dare slip. Once they are scratched, that brass underneath shines thru like a $100 led flashlight.
Think backwards... spin the hex nut all the way down on the shaft (against the switch body), then thread the chrome bezel nut on until it bottoms out internally or has full thread engagement (depending on it's design). Then tighten the hex nut up against the panel. No scratched bezels!
Can i ask where you purchased the dash cobra emblem?
I THINK I got that on Amazon. I went through a few different iterations. Some are plastic, some metal/pewter, etc. I was toying with putting one on my radiator screen, which I think looks great, BUT, with the round Cobra badge on the lip above, was just a tad too much, so I left that one off. I think the one I stuck on the dash was one of the plastic one's. Here's a couple links https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it. Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch. Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread