e brake cable trouble

[Build14fun]

I attached my e brake cables and if I try to pull the brake, the T on the cable hits the bracket holding the handle. I think I need a longer T cable with some adjustment. I get what looks to be 2 extensions(see pic). There must be a simple answer but I cannot find it in searching the forum. Thanks
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[phileas_fogg]

I get an "Invalid attachment specified" error when I tried looking at the pictures. Maybe you have to have a minimum of 10 posts before you're allowed attachments?

John

EDIT: Pictures now fixed.

[AC Bill]

On my MK3.1, the orientation of the T is vertical, rather than horizontal as yours is. The reason for that, was the position of the cable housing end attachment bracket, which has the cables positioned one above the other, rather than side by side like yours. This also put the T above that bracket.

What are the cable housings attached to on your car?

[AC Bill]

Here is an example of the bracket I mentioned. I think that after your cables come under the 4" tube, they need to come up and be attached to the bracket, before going to the T. This will hold the T ip far enough that it won't hit the handle mount. It may rub against the framing in the tunnel, though, so many builders add a slipper for it. A section of nylon plastic works good..

IMG_2991.JPG

[Build14fun]

Mine are in the top holes and the cables go under the 4" tube

[AC Bill]

Mine are in the top holes and the cables go under the 4" tube

The cable housing ends should be in that black brace, with the two holes in it, that in your picture, is directly above your T. That orients your cables above one another, and brings the T up above the handle mount.

Then you pre-tension the T cable pulley, prior to attaching your cables to the T? Normally you do that, then release the tension once the e-brake cables are attached, and the T cable then finds its position.

[Build14fun]

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Here is how they are routed. If I run the cables through the front holes I will have to shorten the cables.

[AC Bill]

My cables go through the top holes, then just the cables go under the 4" tube and connect to the handle

Well how's that working out for you?

That top brace was more to guide the cables, from preventing contact with the drive shaft. In some cases it wasn't used. But maybe it's different on the MK4's

[Build14fun]

It isnt working is the problem. But it is the way the manual says to do it. My cables will not reach the front holes, the part that clicks in the holes.

[AC Bill]

You need different cables, or perhaps re-route the ones you have. This thread has some pictures of how it has been done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...e-brake+cables

[CraigS]

Another option is to make the cable coming from the handle longer so the 'T' doesn't hit the bracket. The wheel that the cable attaches to is not fixed to the handle. It has kind of an intermediate connection and that big clock spring is always trying to take slack out of the cable. I forget the details but you can wind the spring up some by pulling the end of the cable and then fix it in that position by drilling and running a bolt though both pieces. Sorry my memory of last time I messed w/ mine 3 years ago has faded. Then you would need to shorten the other two cables. Either find a way to cut them and crimp on a new end or use a couple of shorteners
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Parking-Bra...gAAOSwLnBavXul
You put this somewhere in the exposed cable length probably to the rear of the 4 inch frame tube to keep them out of the way.. Put the cable into the hook and tighten the nut. that will pull a loop of cable up into the housing and effectively shorten it.

[GFX2043mtu]

Personally I used a Lokar cable kit and made a small aluminum rub panel that the cable touches rather the mount when the brake is engaged. I also used the Lokar cable mount and taped the 4” cross tube to mount it to. This enabled me to run the cables above the frame and out of the way.

[AC Bill]

Sean mentioned in that thread above that I posted a link to, that the stock 94 Mustang cables work best. For the sake of simplicity, maybe pick up a pair of those. You can always sell your current ones.

Quote-" The 94-up ebrake setup works better than the Fox style IMHO, since you don't have to run any of the raw inner cables under the 4" tube. There is plenty of overall length to install calipers either ahead of, or behind the axles (I've had mine installed both ways) and they work without the need to shorten them and crimp new ends on etc."

Those are what I used as well. I never liked the idea of running the cables under the 4" tube, nor the sharp turn required, from the bracket to go back down under the tube.