Since I’m using spacers on my exhausts I won’t be using the FF issued bolts...thinking down the road when taking the exhausts off, should I use stainless?or just regular zinc coated steel bolts?
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Since I’m using spacers on my exhausts I won’t be using the FF issued bolts...thinking down the road when taking the exhausts off, should I use stainless?or just regular zinc coated steel bolts?
MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
Levy 306
T5
2015 Mustang IRS
Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels
I usually ran grade 8 steel, fine thread and double nuts. Don't think SS would be good in that application. The hardware looks pretty bad after a while.
Jim
NO SS, they are not as strong as regular bolts and WILL gaul on exhausts. Just use a good quality bolts with brass nuts, they will never seize.
Like rich said, good bolts with brass nuts. I take it a little further, and recommend brass coupler nuts. The extra length helps cover the threads of the bolts.
MK2 #3319.... On the road since 2002 with a lot of upgrades
Use a good quality header bolt to attach the headers to the heads and plated grade-5 cap screws and nuts to attach flanged couplings. If you have flanged head cap screws and flanged nuts you won't need to use flat washers. And get the serrated nuts they will resist loosening. If you're worried about removing these years down the road coat them with high temp anti-seize.
If you use SS fasteners you should plan on trouble when it's time to remove them. If these low tensile strength fasteners don't loosen from repeated heat cycles then they'll likely gaul leaving you with a challenge removing them. If carbon steel fasteners seize you can always remove them with an oxy-actelyne "wrench" but that's not an option with SS fasteners.
Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).
33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build
What they said. NO stainless there....
Kurt
If everything seems under control, you’re just not going fast enough....
Build thread
MKIV complete kit # 9395 delivered 7/31/18
I use plain silver plated G5 bolts and double nuts. I have always been surprised how easily they come apart.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
I'm in the same brass nuts camp as Rich and Derald. Working on this stuff for 40+ years has taught old guys like us a thing or two
Jeff
Thanks all! Lots of good advice!
MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
Levy 306
T5
2015 Mustang IRS
Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels
Brass nuts sound like a good idea, but I guess you have to be extra careful not to torque them down as tight as you might with steel nuts, right?
If you're bolting on SS pipes, couldn't you use SS nuts on the pipes side?
Non-donor - Engine Factory 351w/400hp - TKO500 - 3-Link - Cobra brakes - FFmetal - Wilwood pedals - FR500 wheels - NCPainter
Owner of FFmetal.com
I’ll just say this, I used SS bolts and nuts to hold things in place, never started the engine, then when I got guidance on what to do I had one SS nut that “galled” on the bolt and spent hours with a Dremel getting that bolt out...can only imagine taking these off after long term use...I don’t want to see another SS bolt!
MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
Levy 306
T5
2015 Mustang IRS
Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels
Actually, I was thinking of using grade 8 bolts and stainless nuts. However, with Jeff's recommendation on brass nuts, that's the way I'll go.
BTW, whenever you use SS on SS, always use anti-seise to prevent galling.
Non-donor - Engine Factory 351w/400hp - TKO500 - 3-Link - Cobra brakes - FFmetal - Wilwood pedals - FR500 wheels - NCPainter
Owner of FFmetal.com
I knew that I should have used anti seize, thought I could get by temporarily...but will never do that again, real PIA!
MK IV complete Kit - 1st time builder started Sept 2016
Levy 306
T5
2015 Mustang IRS
Power steering - Levy setup, Breeze roll bars, Thompson trunk box
fuel injection, powder coating, sway bars, heater, wipers, 17 in wheels
I used SS on my hangers with anti seize and had to cut one off recently due to galling. It was lots of fun.
It's official. Most Cobra drivers have brass nuts.
I've used 316 coarse thread SS nuts and bolts with a liberal amount of never-seez to make the connection between the side pipes and the headers. In fact, I've used SS hardware in most low strength application where the fastener is visible. Again, use a lubricating compound and don't torque the crap out of it. Works fine and looks good.
MkIV #7854, Kit picked up September 2012, Coyote/BOSS 302 intake tuned at 488HP, TKO600, Center Force, Moser 8.8, driveshaft safety hoop, Stainless Header 4x1x4 headers, Gas-N-sidepipes, rad shroud, Wilwoods, NO PS/PB, heater/defroster, heated seats, wipers, Herb door panels, Dynamat Extreme sound/heat dampening, premium Rodtop top, Fast Freddie lexan wind screen, Nitto 555R, drop trunk battery, drop trunk storage,