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Thread: Rearend paint after sandblasting

  1. #1
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    Rearend paint after sandblasting

    Hey fellas, this is my first post. I picked up a used '33 hot rod kit recently and I'm super excited to get going on it.
    It's barely built with just the front suspension completed. We'll I started on the rearend this week and the factory five rearend it came with had chipped paint, etc.
    I tried my own sandblasting to no avail so had somebody do it for $75. they used sand or glass it looks like and the surface was very rough but looked good.
    I sanded it down the best I could and sprayed it with summit chassis blast aerosol. It now looks like a rough surface and I'm not to happy with it. What can I do to make it look better?
    Here's a pic of the original silver color: https://imgur.com/a/RARb1Zc

  2. #2
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tony View Post
    Hey fellas, this is my first post. I picked up a used '33 hot rod kit recently and I'm super excited to get going on it.
    It's barely built with just the front suspension completed. We'll I started on the rearend this week and the factory five rearend it came with had chipped paint, etc.
    I tried my own sandblasting to no avail so had somebody do it for $75. they used sand or glass it looks like and the surface was very rough but looked good.
    I sanded it down the best I could and sprayed it with summit chassis blast aerosol. It now looks like a rough surface and I'm not to happy with it. What can I do to make it look better?
    Here's a pic of the original silver color: https://imgur.com/a/RARb1Zc
    Did you prime before applying the paint? IF so usually the primer can get into the small divots and then once you sand and prep it can be smoothed. It will never be perfectly smooth if sandblasted, glass blasting would smoothen it out but you still need to sand it and then primer, resand and then touch up and sand before paint. Have fun, its all a learning experience regardless!!
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

  3. #3
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Take a close look at the cast steel center section of that rear axle -- it's rough "as cast" and sort of looks like your sand blasted steel axle tubes. But if you're going for that show car look with mirrors under your car at the local show then try some high build primer and sand until your hands are bleeding. Maybe even have it pin striped when you're done. But be advised that working to this high a standard will triple the time it's going to take you to build that hot rod. Remember, perfect cars spend most of their time in the garage not on the road.

    Or, rattle can it with Eastwood's two-part chassis black and call it good, the rough surface will not be noticed by 99.997% of the gear heads that bother to look under the rear. And it will help hide the rock chips and other blemishes you will pick up if this is to be a driver and not a trailer queen.

    Have fun with your build.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    Take a close look at the cast steel center section of that rear axle -- it's rough "as cast" and sort of looks like your sand blasted steel axle tubes. But if you're going for that show car look with mirrors under your car at the local show then try some high build primer and sand until your hands are bleeding. Maybe even have it pin striped when you're done. But be advised that working to this high a standard will triple the time it's going to take you to build that hot rod. Remember, perfect cars spend most of their time in the garage not on the road.

    Or, rattle can it with Eastwood's two-part chassis black and call it good, the rough surface will not be noticed by 99.997% of the gear heads that bother to look under the rear. And it will help hide the rock chips and other blemishes you will pick up if this is to be a driver and not a trailer queen.

    Have fun with your build.
    I ended up buying some good high fill primer. Gonna scuff it, primer and then respray the black paint in hopes it'll smooth it out.
    thanks for the input!

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    the other question I have is if this is a Moser rearend? It had the factory five symbol cutout in the bracket, but I can't tell otherwise. Anybody have any other insight?

  6. #6
    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    You might want to contact FFR and based on your chassis number they should be able to tell you where they were sourcing their rear axles from at that time. My original one came from a company in MA call HTC (High Temp Coatings) if I remember correctly. I had them do some extra work outside of the FFR kit supplied option -- I would not recommend them. Hopefully yours is a Moser Engineering axle.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

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    Before you do that I would first ensure the axle tubes are welded to the center section

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    Seasoned Citizen NAZ's Avatar
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    Second the recommendation on welding the axle tubes to the center section if your engine puts out more than a modest amount of torque. I don't pretend to know the design limits of torque on the axle tubes before failure but do know that some have reported failure with engines producing modest amounts. Remember, the torque at the flywheel gets multiplied by the trans gear ratio then the rear end gear ratio. And if you're running an automatic the torque converter can double the flywheel torque or more. So it's common to see thousands of pounds of torque being applied to the axles and the axle housing.

    The 8.8 center section is cast steel and the axle tubes are mild steel. There is a process I use when welding the tubes that prevents cracking and results in a solid joint. If you decide to weld yours yourself or have a buddy weld them be advised that using the wrong filler wire, wrong process, and procedure may very well result in a less than desirable outcome. If you click the link below and search near the back (first photos) you'll see how I weld these. I used to make my living welding and have more experience welding cast steel and cast iron than most professional welders. Welding these dissimilar metals is tricky.
    Dart Little M 406" SBC 800 HP N/A & 1,100 HP on nitrous, 2-spd Powerglide with trans brake, 6,000 RPM stall converter, narrowed Moser 88 3.90:1 spool with 35-spline gun-drilled axles & Torino bearings, custom parallel four-link, custom tube chassis & roll cage NHRA certified for 8.5-sec (only two FFR Hot Rods have this cert).

    33 Hot Rod Super Pro Drag Racer Build: 33 HR NHRA Cert Roll Cage Build

  9. #9
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    It has a nice weld on it. Hopefully means I have a decent rearend. Kit is number 324ordered spring 2011

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    Just to be clear

    IMG_1627.jpg

  11. #11
    Senior Member AJT '33's Avatar
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    This is my IRS pumpkin after I was done priming and painting, all proper rattle can primer, paint and clear.
    20171221_214331.jpg post clear.
    20171222_200459.jpg post installed
    20171229_200457.jpg with the rest
    Agree NAZ, you go as far as you are willing able to.
    Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
    Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
    Andreas

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    Senior Member ztoolman44's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NAZ View Post
    Second the recommendation on welding the axle tubes to the center section if your engine puts out more than a modest amount of torque. I don't pretend to know the design limits of torque on the axle tubes before failure but do know that some have reported failure with engines producing modest amounts. Remember, the torque at the flywheel gets multiplied by the trans gear ratio then the rear end gear ratio. And if you're running an automatic the torque converter can double the flywheel torque or more. So it's common to see thousands of pounds of torque being applied to the axles and the axle housing.

    The 8.8 center section is cast steel and the axle tubes are mild steel. There is a process I use when welding the tubes that prevents cracking and results in a solid joint. If you decide to weld yours yourself or have a buddy weld them be advised that using the wrong filler wire, wrong process, and procedure may very well result in a less than desirable outcome. If you click the link below and search near the back (first photos) you'll see how I weld these. I used to make my living welding and have more experience welding cast steel and cast iron than most professional welders. Welding these dissimilar metals is tricky.
    I checked out your link to see the axle mod and ended up staying there for half an hour. lol Nice car! Impressive welds.

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