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Thread: Bump out for heater with Coyote

  1. #1
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    Bump out for heater with Coyote

    Anyone with a Coyote made a bump out in the firewall into the engine bay to make more room for a glove box? How much room do I have? How deep could I make the bump out? Thanks!

    I did a few searches but couldn’t find any definitive pictures or measurements.
    MKIV #9542 Complete Kit, Coyote, IRS - Delivered - 2/19/19, First start - 9/8/19, Go Cart - 9/14/19
    1965 Mustang Convertible 4v 289
    Build Thread HERE

  2. #2
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    A Gen 2 or Gen 3 Coyote has approximately 4 inches from the standard Roadster firewall location to the CMCV vacuum motors on the back of the intake. That's the space you have to work with without making any changes. It is possible to remove the vacuum motors and lock out the function. Standard practice on the '33 Hot Rod which has less space. Not hard to do but done right requires a custom tune, which is a good idea anyway. Another option is a thinner glove box, typically custom, documented on several builds.
    Last edited by edwardb; 04-06-2019 at 03:21 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
    Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Paul2STL's Avatar
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    On my build I did a bump out box at 2 1/4". I had to move the box as far to the passenger side to get the heater to clear the head. I did have to get a radiator shop to shorten my heater out let pips by 3/4". Something I could have done myself but elected to let them do it. The glove box I made myself and it was three inches. There have been a few people that have done it besides myself. Check out Ducky2009 build also. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...MK4-Build-9035
    MKIV #9122 Ordered kit 5/24/17 received kit 8/11/17 MK4 Base kit +,First Start 4/7/18, First Go-Cart 4/22/18, In gelcoat, licensed and driving 8/11/18. Coyote gen2, T-56, 2015 IRS 3.31, 17" Halibrand replicas w/Nitto NT555 G2, Withby Motorcars power brake kit W/Wilwood pedals, 04 Cobra front brakes, 15 Mustang rear brakes with mods, power steering. Paint Jeff Miller Da Bat, Lexus Spectra Blue Mica W/Toyota Silver Sky Metallic strips. Build thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...Paul2STL-Build

  4. #4
    Senior Builder lgordon's Avatar
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    After seeing posts on the forum of pop out boxes made by others, I set out make one for my MK4. I was very fortunate to be able to visit both RR20AC and Paul2STL who only live about an hour away from me and was inspired seeing the heater pop out boxes they built into their awesome cars! My design constraints were, I have and want to use the FFR heater/defroster, padded dash with its full-size glove box, and the FFR windshield wiper. It also needs to fit in well with my 2017 Coyote engine.

    After measuring everything I could several times, I designed one that I believe is about as compact as possible. While there were a couple of millimeters clearance for the heater core inside the box at first that almost disappeared after the pop out box was powder coated and sprayed with LizardSkin insulation.

    A “blueprint” for the box I built is shown in the first attached photo. With the exception of the one that I riveted to the 2” tube supporting the firewall, all of the tabs were ¾”wide, overall height 6 ½”, width 9 1/8”, depth 2 5/8”.

    I found a local sheet metal fabrication shop who cut and bent the box for me out of the same specification aluminum FFR uses. As well as giving them my blueprint I also cut out a copy of the blueprint, folded and glued it together the way I wanted the final. As I recall the cost was about $70 and the workmanship was perfect.

    I then drilled for rivets and cut the openings for the pipes and heater core as per the instructions provided by FFR. To allow for the fact that the supply pipes exit the core at an angle I found it necessary to cut the bottom of the hole deeper, accounting for the strange shape. The somewhat bulky fittings on the tubes fit through the round part of the hole and when the core is fully inserted the pipes sit on the bottom of the box, no wasted space. Fortunately, the FFR supplied grommets accommodate the irregularity. Forewarned, others may be able to avoid this.

    I attached a photo of the heater temporarily mounted. In order to have what I considered adequate clearance from the engine I had a friendly radiator shop shorten the brass pipe closest to the engine by 1”. No charge, other than a request to bring my car by to show them when it’s completed! I haven’t installed the windshield wiper motor and shaft yet but from holding it in place and also seeing what’s worked for others I should be ok.

    As you can see in the last photo there is more than enough clearance between the dash and heater for a full-size glove box.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  6. #5
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    If you intend to use the defrost vent in the position described in the instructions, you will have to buy or fabricate a plenum. The supplied duct will interfere with the top of the heater. I made my own but, there is a supplier on the forum that makes a very nice one. I can’t recall who it is but maybe they will see the thread and respond.

    Norm

  7. #6
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    Thanks for all the replies/insights. I went ahead and built a bump out box similar to what some of you described and clamped it to the firewall along with the wiper motor. I don’t see how you can have both. Needless to say I decided to forgoe the bump out and will build a slim custom glove box instead.
    Last edited by Cruzzz; 04-09-2019 at 07:33 PM.
    MKIV #9542 Complete Kit, Coyote, IRS - Delivered - 2/19/19, First start - 9/8/19, Go Cart - 9/14/19
    1965 Mustang Convertible 4v 289
    Build Thread HERE

  8. #7
    David aka Ducky2009 Ducky2009's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cruzzz View Post
    Thanks for all the replies/insights. I went ahead and built a bump out box similar to what some of you described and clamped it to the firewall along with the wiper motor. I don’t see how you can have both. Needless to say I decided to forgive the bump out and will build a slim custom glove box instead.
    The heater bump out and wiper motor will all fit in the small space provided. I made a 2 1/4" bump-out. I did not shorten the heater tubes.... Great idea Paul. 2 1/4" with the standard tube length allow approx 3/4" clearance to the back of a Coyote engine. I mounted the tubes straight up to allow an easy hose routing to a 4-way shut-off valve. Try to push the heater as for out (to PS) to clear the vacuum valves.

    ALSO: Because of the large hole for the heater bump-out box, thus weakening the firewall at the thin section at the upper left hand corner, I made a new firewall from 3/32" (instead of the standard .040"). Used the same 3/32" for the dash.

    I never installed the defrost vents. I did install two vents on each side to the floor.

    Wiper Motor Mount.jpg Heater Motor Clearance - 1.jpg Heater Motor Clearance -2.jpg
    Last edited by Ducky2009; 04-09-2019 at 06:36 PM.
    MK4 Build #9035 Delivered 2/17/17, First Start & Go-Kart 6/2/17, Licensed 9/1/17
    Paint - Lightning Blue Metallic, No Hood Scoop, No Stripes
    Gen 2 Coyote Engine & TKO-600. Solid Axle, 8.8-3.55, Power Steering, Power Brakes, Dual Roll Bars
    Heater and Glove Box, Drop Trunk, Wipers, Radio, FFR Vintage Gauges, Custom Dash
    Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...MK4-Build-9035

  9. #8
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    I’m impressed Ducky! It really didn’t look like it would all fit. Well done.
    MKIV #9542 Complete Kit, Coyote, IRS - Delivered - 2/19/19, First start - 9/8/19, Go Cart - 9/14/19
    1965 Mustang Convertible 4v 289
    Build Thread HERE

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