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Vintage Air Heater Cap
It’s already 97* in Phoenix today and I was sweating on just a short drive. I have the Vintage Air heater with Ball vents pointed towards the seats. Even with turning the vents off, it was still pushing air through. I found the duct inside the engine bay didn't have a door and allows the squirrel cage to run with the engine heat passing through.
So I made a 3-D printed cover to block off the opening. Hopefully this will work for a few weeks while I find a vynil cover from work that snaps on and off easier.
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Factory Five Racing Roadster MKIV -- #9196 -- 347ci, 475 HP, 5 Speed, Plymouth Prowler Orange Metallic
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Oh sure...…"I have a 3D Printer and I'm so bichen. See what I can do"......NOTHIN I CAN'T DO WITH A BIG GULP LID(do they even have those any more) and TWO no make that 3 rolls of DUCK TAPE !!! It's DUCK tape....cause I said so ! Very nice brother. Little tip for ya...… Say "Look what I made to solve a problem !" " What do ya'll think ? ".....see, that way you invite a response. Your way, you say "Look how I solved a problem we ALL have". So, we look at it and think "NICE!" "Smart son-of-a-gun" and we move on down the road. Punch it up, SELL IT, get motivated ! I know I am !(motivated) LETS GET SOMETHING DONE TODAY PEOPLE !....That's it, I need a nap...da Bat
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Senior Member
Not to steal your thunder (I wish I had a 3D printer!), but a tennis ball can lid works, too!
FFR MK4 #8317, 393 Cleveland, Lunati VooDoo solid roller, CHI 3V heads and intake, TKO 600, Std roadster seats, 8.8 3.55 diff, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, Ford "Magnetic Metallic", silver ghost stripe. (Sold 10/16/21)
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I looked all over the garage and house with a caliper and couldn't find any type of lid. I work from home, so its easier for me to make something than run to the store and walk the aisles.
Factory Five Racing Roadster MKIV -- #9196 -- 347ci, 475 HP, 5 Speed, Plymouth Prowler Orange Metallic
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Senior Member
I found the water valve didnt close on mine and found a ford valve at oriellys that does, the air wasnt the problem it was the heat.
Walt
FFR8237 Donor build 89 GT , MK 4 , T5 , 17 " hallibrands 9" front 10.5 rear ,4×4 headers stainless mufflers, dual chrome roll bars, coil overs all 4,A/C and heater , soft top, 3:55 gears.
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Thanks Walt, I will check that as well.
Factory Five Racing Roadster MKIV -- #9196 -- 347ci, 475 HP, 5 Speed, Plymouth Prowler Orange Metallic
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Just went for a ride for lunch. No more Hot Air Ball problems.
If anyone wants one of these for the Vintage Air Heater, just let me know and I can make some more.
Factory Five Racing Roadster MKIV -- #9196 -- 347ci, 475 HP, 5 Speed, Plymouth Prowler Orange Metallic
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Senior Member
Sure I'll take one. What do you think it will cost?
Thanks
2nd MK4 #10639 received 3-19-23. Wife's version. Street Snake - IRS, Willwoods, no roll bars, no hood scoop, no stripes, Blue Print EFI 306 with AOD trans, and under car exhaust. Ford Eruption Green with saddle leather interior.
1st build - Mk4 Roadster #9319, received 4-10-18. IL registration 8/6/19. Moser 8.8. 3 Link. Wilwood brakes. Blue Print 427, Holley 750, TKO 600, 0.64 OD. Paint Dec 2020. Ruby Red with Carbon Flash Black metallic stripes.
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Originally Posted by
ILPBFoot
Sure I'll take one. What do you think it will cost?
Thanks
Free for the cap, $2.50 for USPS shipping. DM me your address.
Factory Five Racing Roadster MKIV -- #9196 -- 347ci, 475 HP, 5 Speed, Plymouth Prowler Orange Metallic
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Well Used Member
I'm curious, my heater blower/motor is open on both ends. Is your's not?
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
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Originally Posted by
boat737
I'm curious, my heater blower/motor is open on both ends. Is your's not?
Yes it is. But I think without the squirrel cage moving, that opening doesn’t get much push through.
Factory Five Racing Roadster MKIV -- #9196 -- 347ci, 475 HP, 5 Speed, Plymouth Prowler Orange Metallic
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Senior Member
Nice job if you would print one up for me that would be great
I think that your price is to low you need to get something for your time and supplies
Thanks
Rick
#8475 Complete Kit Delivered Nov 2014, started Nov 2015, Street Legal Apr 2016, Paint and Interior Completed Aug 2017, 390 BBF, March accessory kit, MSD Atomic EFI and Ready to run, TKO 500 with MidShift kit, hooker headers, 3 link, track lock with 3.55, sway bars, power steering, wipers, heater
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I don’t mind making 10 or 20. If more than that, I will have to think about putting them on eBay. I am making an inner cap now that will run faster on the printer. Pics later tonight or Friday.
Originally Posted by
Itchief
Nice job if you would print one up for me that would be great
I think that your price is to low you need to get something for your time and supplies
Thanks
Rick
Factory Five Racing Roadster MKIV -- #9196 -- 347ci, 475 HP, 5 Speed, Plymouth Prowler Orange Metallic
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I switched to an inner cap with hitch pins holding it on. It’s cold in Phoenix and I needed the heater this morning. This version runs a lot faster at 42 minutes and is easier to take on and off without tools. Testing this weekend. 52EEAE7C-3C7B-4257-8CE6-EE6128AA1531.jpeg
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Factory Five Racing Roadster MKIV -- #9196 -- 347ci, 475 HP, 5 Speed, Plymouth Prowler Orange Metallic
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Senior Member
Now THAT looks much better than my tennis ball can lid! I'll take one of those! I'll PM my address!
FFR MK4 #8317, 393 Cleveland, Lunati VooDoo solid roller, CHI 3V heads and intake, TKO 600, Std roadster seats, 8.8 3.55 diff, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, Ford "Magnetic Metallic", silver ghost stripe. (Sold 10/16/21)
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Factory Five Racing Roadster MKIV -- #9196 -- 347ci, 475 HP, 5 Speed, Plymouth Prowler Orange Metallic
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Senior Member
Very upscale over my Duck Tape Would like to get one sent a PM.
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I’m traveling in California, but here are some instructions for install
1) Remove the hitch pins
2) push the cap into the squirrel cage hole The top of the ears should be flush with the top of the black heater hole.
3) line up the ears, so you can drill straight through both holes with a 6” drill bit if you have one.
4) if you have short drill bits, line up the far hole and drill that first. Then install that hitch pin
5). Use the top of the near ear to line up the hole and drill that hole
6) if you can get pins in, done
7) if not, use a bigger drill bit and open up the holes.
Factory Five Racing Roadster MKIV -- #9196 -- 347ci, 475 HP, 5 Speed, Plymouth Prowler Orange Metallic
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Post Thanks / Like - 1 Thanks, 0 Likes
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Senior Member
Got mine yesterday! Very nice work. Thanks, Rob!
FFR MK4 #8317, 393 Cleveland, Lunati VooDoo solid roller, CHI 3V heads and intake, TKO 600, Std roadster seats, 8.8 3.55 diff, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, Ford "Magnetic Metallic", silver ghost stripe. (Sold 10/16/21)
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Senior Member
Just some info for anyone with a Vintage Air Deluxe heater. The one with the electronic controls and heater control valve. In case anyone else has one, here is a nice "feature".
Let's say you have the fan on and the temp on high. Then you turn the temp down and the fan off. The control valve will stay wherever it was when the fan switch gets turned off. You have to turn the temp down, wait about 10 seconds for the valve to close, and then turn the fan off. Really? An electronic controller without that basic logic.
If not, you will sweat for an entire 1200 mile, multi day summer cruise. Ask my sweaty self how I know.
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Well Used Member
Originally Posted by
Avalanche325
Just some info for anyone with a Vintage Air Deluxe heater. The one with the electronic controls and heater control valve. In case anyone else has one, here is a nice "feature".
Let's say you have the fan on and the temp on high. Then you turn the temp down and the fan off. The control valve will stay wherever it was when the fan switch gets turned off. You have to turn the temp down, wait about 10 seconds for the valve to close, and then turn the fan off. Really? An electronic controller without that basic logic.
If not, you will sweat for an entire 1200 mile, multi day summer cruise. Ask my sweaty self how I know.
On mine, it is wired through the accessory circuit of the ignition switch, not the fan motor switch. So the temp selector works independent of the fan-motor switch.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
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I added these on ebay if anyone is interested.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303138397047
Factory Five Racing Roadster MKIV -- #9196 -- 347ci, 475 HP, 5 Speed, Plymouth Prowler Orange Metallic
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Senior Member
Good product. solid fit, 5 minute install.
Replaced my duck tape. Need to scrape the residue when I get to it.
Last edited by BEAR-AvHistory; 04-29-2019 at 11:50 AM.
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