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Thread: When install engine/trans

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Question When install engine/trans

    I still have my chassis on the chassis dolly. Should I put wheels and tires on the chassis before installing the engine and trans?
    I see in the manual that the engine goes in before the wheels/tires. Seems like a lot of load for the casters (mine rated at 600lbs each). Actually, the manual never mounts the wheels/tires. I like the mobility provided by the casters, but really think they can't take the load. Anyway, I still have a few things to do before engine/trans so still thinking.
    Thanks for your help,
    Jeff

  2. #2

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    There are many ways to skin a possum so here is my take.

    Raise The Back & Scoot The Car Under:

    1st Installation:
    https://youtu.be/3f1Q4aS5SG4
    https://youtu.be/jiwelvNHUrk

    Leaky Block Removal:
    (Boo, Boo, Hisss, Hisss)
    https://youtu.be/Vhbftk4AP4k

    2nd Installation:
    https://youtu.be/-nVDzIjSjh8

    Good Luck From The Dark Dart Side!
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 04-13-2019 at 01:55 PM.

  3. #3
    Senior Member phileas_fogg's Avatar
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    Like you, I didn’t trust my chassis dolly to carry the weight of the engine. I put the frame on jack stands. That gave me plenty of clearance for any approach I wanted to take with my engine hoist.

    Be sure to test fit the transmission A-frame BEFORE you get the engine in the air. My A-frame took a good bit of grinding at the bottom of each leg before it would fit between the 4” tube & the mounting tabs.

    If you’re working alone, you’ll probably find it easier to install the A-frame after the engine is installed. If you’ve got helpers, I recommend installing the A-frame before the engine. Have a helper lift the tail of the transmission up into place.


    John

    P.S. Take pictures when you do the installation; we all wanna see!
    MK IV Roadster #8631
    Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313

  4. #4
    Not a waxer Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Either way you go the car is on jackstands (with the rear high) so it really makes absolutely no difference whether the wheels are bolted on or not.

    Jeff

  5. #5
    Senior Member BEAR-AvHistory's Avatar
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    I did it with the wheels on, felt safer to me.
    Kevin
    MKIV #8234
    Coyote '14/TKO-600/3-Link 3:55 Rear
    I love the smell of 100 octane in the morning.
    NITTO NT01 275X40X17ZR - 315X35ZRX17
    Delivered 2/7/14 - Plate "COYOTE NC1965" 3/25/15

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